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		<title>Residential Wind Damage in Hurricane Katrina Improved Building Codes and Construction Practices-</title>
		<link>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/03/02/residential-wind-damage-in-hurricane-katrina-improved-building-codes-and-construction-practices/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Mar 2008 17:39:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hurricane Damage]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Residential Wind Damage in Hurricane Katrina
Preliminary Estimates and Potential Loss Reduction through
Improved Building Codes and Construction Practices
October 3, 2005
Prepared by
LSU Hurricane Center
Suite 3225 CEBA Building
Louisiana State University
Baton Rouge, LA 70803
Phone: (225) 578-4813
Fax: (225) 578-7646
Funded in part by Solutia, Inc.
i
PREFACE
This study has been conducted by the LSU Hurricane Center. The views presented here are
those of the [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=10&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>Residential Wind Damage in Hurricane Katrina<br />
Preliminary Estimates and Potential Loss Reduction through<br />
Improved Building Codes and Construction Practices<br />
October 3, 2005<br />
Prepared by<br />
LSU Hurricane Center<br />
Suite 3225 CEBA Building<br />
Louisiana State University<br />
Baton Rouge, LA 70803<br />
Phone: (225) 578-4813<br />
Fax: (225) 578-7646<br />
Funded in part by Solutia, Inc.<br />
i<br />
PREFACE<br />
This study has been conducted by the LSU Hurricane Center. The views presented here are<br />
those of the report authors (shown below), who are solely responsible for the analysis and<br />
content of this report.<br />
Marc L. Levitan, Ph.D.<br />
Director, LSU Hurricane Center<br />
Charles P. Siess, Jr. Associate Professor<br />
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering<br />
Louisiana State University<br />
Ms. Carol Hill, P.E.<br />
Graduate Research Assistant<br />
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering<br />
Louisiana State University<br />
The analysis makes use of wind field data from Hurricane Katrina initially gathered by field<br />
researchers from Texas Tech University and Florida International University and others, with<br />
subsequent analysis by the NOAA Hurricane Research Division and Applied Research<br />
Associates (ARA). The data sharing among these research groups is gratefully acknowledged.<br />
Loss estimates and effectiveness of mitigation options were determined using FEMA’s HAZUSMH<br />
Hurricane Wind Model, MR1 Release 39 (copyright 2004, FEMA).<br />
Loss estimates are highly dependent on the maximum wind speeds in a hurricane and the<br />
geographical extent of hurricane force winds. There are currently several researchers on the<br />
ground in Louisiana and Mississippi gathering as much information as they can find on the<br />
intensity and reach of Katrina&#8217;s wind field. As new data becomes available, a reanalysis of the<br />
estimated losses may yield somewhat different results.<br />
Partial funding for the study was provided by Solutia, Inc, which is also gratefully<br />
acknowledged.<br />
ii<br />
EXECUTIVE SUMARY<br />
In order to provide context for consideration of changes to residential building codes and<br />
construction practices in Louisiana, a quick study of the estimated wind damage caused by<br />
Hurricane Katrina was conducted. As Louisiana did not experience the most intense winds from<br />
Katrina due to its track over the very eastern part of the state, a ‘what if’ analysis was also<br />
conducted with a Katrina-like storm shifted slightly to the west, bringing more of the windfield<br />
over Louisiana. Both of these storm events were then used to investigate the impacts of several<br />
different changes in building code requirements/construction practices. Mitigation measures<br />
considered were opening protection (impact resistant shutters or laminated glass systems),<br />
improved connection of the roof deck, installation of hurricane straps, and secondary moisture<br />
protection of the roof deck. Damage estimates and the effectiveness of various mitigation<br />
measures were made using FEMA’s HAZUS-MH Hurricane Wind Model, a state-of-the-art risk<br />
assessment program for analyzing hurricane losses.<br />
The number of residential structures in Louisiana that sustained damage from wind and winddriven<br />
rain during Hurricane Katrina was estimated to be near 273,000, 16% of the total building<br />
stock in Louisiana. Had Katrina made landfall slightly west of New Orleans instead of just east<br />
of the city, the number of damaged and destroyed buildings in Louisiana would have been<br />
doubled, to well over half a million residences.<br />
Investigation of mitigation options showed all to be effective individually. When considered<br />
together as a package, these four combined mitigation measures reduced the estimated losses by<br />
over 75%.<br />
The loss reduction estimates using different mitigation techniques do not include such additional<br />
benefits as reduction in human suffering, reduced disruption of communities and local<br />
economies, reduced emergency response costs, and other significant but difficult to quantify<br />
losses.<br />
These preliminary results support the need for reforms in building code requirements and<br />
construction practices in Louisiana.<br />
1<br />
RESIDENTIAL LOSS ANALYSIS<br />
The HAZUS-MH Wind Model was used to simulate the wind field experienced during Hurricane<br />
Katrina. The model inputs were based upon a preliminary study of surface winds produced by<br />
Applied Research Associates (ARA). The ARA modeled storm was based on National<br />
Hurricane Center Forecast/Advisories (through NHC Advisory 27), H*Wind analyses of wind<br />
speeds and radius to maximum winds from NOAA’s Hurricane Research Division (HRD) and<br />
ground-measured wind speeds from the Florida Coastal Monitoring Program (FCMP) and<br />
reporting airports.<br />
The modeled wind field for Hurricane Katrina in Louisiana is shown in Figure 1. A large scale<br />
map of the affected portion of Louisiana is shown in Figure 2. Wind speeds represent peak gusts<br />
at 33 ft height over flat open terrain, the standard reporting methodology for wind speeds.<br />
Figure 1 – Estimated Hurricane Katrina Peak Gust Wind Speeds<br />
Figure 2 – Estimated Hurricane Katrina Peak Gust Wind Speeds (Southeast LA view)<br />
2<br />
To simulate the landfall of Hurricane Katrina on a more damaging path, each of the points used<br />
to define the track of Hurricane Katrina was shifted 0.7 decimal degrees (approximately 40<br />
miles) to the west. This track puts New Orleans on the right front side of the storm, where it will<br />
experience more severe winds and flooding. This hypothetical Katrina-West scenario was<br />
analyzed with the HAZUS Wind Model to produce a wind field for purposes of comparison with<br />
the actual Katrina track. The modeled wind field for the adjusted storm track in the state of<br />
Louisiana is shown in Figure 3. A larger scale map of the southeast corner of Louisiana is<br />
shown in Figure 4.<br />
Figure 3 – Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario Peak Gust Wind Speeds<br />
Figure 4 – Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario Peak Gust Wind Speeds<br />
(Southeast Louisiana view)<br />
3<br />
The HAZUS-MH Hurricane Model uses a structural load vs. resistance methodology to calculate<br />
damage experienced in a hurricane. The wind speeds discussed previously are the most<br />
important inputs to determine the wind loads on the structures. The damage results provided by<br />
HAZUS include five damage states: none or very minor, minor, moderate, severe, and<br />
destruction. Qualitative descriptions for each of these damage categories are given below in<br />
Table 1.<br />
Table 1 – HAZUS Damage States for Residential Construction<br />
Qualitative Damage Description<br />
Roof<br />
Cover<br />
Failure<br />
Window<br />
Door<br />
Failures<br />
Roof Deck<br />
Missile<br />
Impacts on<br />
Walls<br />
Roof<br />
Structure<br />
Failure<br />
Wall<br />
Structure<br />
Failure<br />
No Damage or Very Minor Damage<br />
Little or no visible damage from the<br />
outside. No broken windows, or failed roof<br />
deck. Minimal loss of roof cover, with no<br />
or very limited water penetration.<br />
≤2% No No No No No<br />
Minor Damage<br />
Maximum of one broken window, door or<br />
garage door. Moderate roof cover loss that<br />
can be covered to prevent additional water<br />
entering the building. Marks or dents on<br />
walls requiring painting or patching for<br />
repair.<br />
&gt;2% and<br />
≤15%<br />
One<br />
window,<br />
door, or<br />
garage<br />
door<br />
failure<br />
No 15% and<br />
≤50%<br />
&gt; one and<br />
≤ the larger<br />
of 20% &amp;<br />
3<br />
1 to 3<br />
panels<br />
Typically 5<br />
to 10<br />
impacts<br />
No No<br />
Severe Damage<br />
Major window damage or roof sheathing<br />
loss. Major roof cover loss. Extensive<br />
damage to interior from water.<br />
&gt;50%<br />
&gt; the larger<br />
of 20% &amp;<br />
3 and<br />
≤50%<br />
&gt;3 and<br />
≤25%<br />
Typically<br />
10 to 20<br />
impacts<br />
No No<br />
Destruction<br />
Complete roof failure and/or, failure of<br />
wall frame. Loss of more than 50% of roof<br />
sheathing.<br />
Typically<br />
&gt;50% &gt;50% &gt;25%<br />
Typically<br />
&gt;20<br />
impacts<br />
Yes Yes<br />
A building damage and loss analysis was completed for Hurricane Katrina using the default<br />
settings for the HAZUS program. The state of Louisiana was used as the study region.<br />
According to the HAZUS databases, the study area contains approximately 1,719,000 total<br />
buildings (based on 2000 census data). From the HAZUS databases, residential buildings<br />
constitute approximately 99% of the buildings in the study region.<br />
The output of the HAZUS model provides building counts for each of damage categories shown<br />
above. The Hurricane Katrina analysis results are given in Table 2. Counts represent the<br />
estimated total number of affected buildings in Louisiana, and percentage figures represent the<br />
percent of buildings in each of the categories. Maps of the areas affected by Hurricane Katrina<br />
winds are shown in Figures 5 and 6. Figure 5 presents a graphical depiction of residential<br />
properties modeled by HAZUS that sustained at least minor damage, delineated by census tract,<br />
and Figure 6 shows properties experiencing at least moderate damage. The total estimated<br />
damage from wind and rain (including costs to repair and loss of contents) is $10.0 billion.<br />
4<br />
Table 2 – HAZUS Modeled Residential Damage for Hurricane Katrina<br />
Reporting Basis Minor<br />
Damage<br />
Moderate<br />
Damage<br />
Severe<br />
Damage Destruction<br />
Total<br />
Buildings<br />
Affected<br />
Building Count 153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483<br />
Percentage of<br />
Buildings in LA 9% 4% 1% 1% 16%<br />
Figure 5 – Estimated Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Minor<br />
Damage during Hurricane Katrina (HAZUS)<br />
Figure 6 – Estimated Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Moderate<br />
Damage from Hurricane Katrina (HAZUS)<br />
5<br />
A HAZUS analysis was also conducted for the simulated Hurricane Katrina on a more westerly<br />
track. The estimated damage results are given in Table 3 below. This storm is shown to cause<br />
much more damage. It effects more than twice as many buildings and destroys several times as<br />
many as indicated by the Katrina estimate<br />
Table 3 – HAZUS Modeled Residential Damage for Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario<br />
Reporting Basis Minor<br />
Damage<br />
Moderate<br />
Damage<br />
Severe<br />
Damage Destruction<br />
Total<br />
Buildings<br />
Affected<br />
Building Count 143,601 172,393 134,368 125,132 575,493<br />
Percentage of<br />
Buildings in LA 8% 10% 8% 7% 33%<br />
These damage estimates are shown graphically in Figures 7 and 8. Figure 7 shows the modified<br />
Katrina track HAZUS results for residential properties sustaining at least minor damage,<br />
delineated by census tract. Figure 8 shows the percentage of residential properties modeled by<br />
HAZUS as experiencing at least moderate damage for this storm scenario.<br />
Figure 7 – Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Minor Damage for<br />
Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario (HAZUS)<br />
6<br />
Figure 8 – Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Moderate Damage for<br />
Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario (HAZUS)<br />
ANALYSIS OF EFFECTIVENESS OF MITIGATION MEASURES<br />
Both the actual Hurricane Katrina track and the modified track west of New Orleans were<br />
analyzed with the HAZUS Hurricane Model to explore the effectiveness of improved building<br />
codes and construction practices in mitigating wind damage. The mitigation options are based<br />
upon strategies incorporated in the Dade County South Florida Building Code, described below<br />
(see the HAZUS Technical Manual for more details).<br />
􀂃 Protection of Building Openings<br />
Windows and doors are the weak spots in the wall envelope. Requiring debris impact<br />
resistant windows and doors or debris impact protective coverings (shutters) prevents<br />
most window and door failures. This helps keep the wind and rain out of the building,<br />
reducing structural damage, damage to finishes, and damage to contents.<br />
􀂃 Improved Roof Sheathing Attachment<br />
Better attachment of the plywood or OSB roof sheathing to the roof structure through<br />
appropriate fasteners and closer fastener spacing helps prevent sections of the roof deck<br />
from being lifted off by the wind. This reduces progressive failures and wind and water<br />
from penetrating the building envelope.<br />
􀂃 Improved Roof-Wall Connections<br />
Installation of metal ‘hurricane clips’ or’ hurricane straps’ provides a continuous load<br />
path from the roof to the foundation, helping prevent catastrophic roof uplift failures.<br />
􀂃 Secondary Waterproofing to Roof Joints<br />
Sealing the joints between the sheets of roof decking provides a second line of defense<br />
against roof leaks, even if the roof coverings are damaged or destroyed.<br />
7<br />
Reduction in Building Damage Through Mitigation<br />
The four mitigation strategies were applied to each hazard scenario individually to assess the<br />
effectiveness of each option. A combined analysis was also performed to provide an<br />
understanding of the effectiveness of the combination of mitigation measures. Results for this<br />
analysis are given in the same format as for the Katrina analysis, with building counts in each<br />
damage state and the percentage of buildings statewide that are classified in each damage state.<br />
Additionally, the percent reduction from the basic Hurricane Katrina analysis is calculated for<br />
each damage state.<br />
Note that reduction in damage is not modeled by selecting secondary waterproofing for roof<br />
joints, but results for waterproofing are included in the economic loss analysis. The results of the<br />
mitigation analysis are given for Hurricane Katrina in Tables 4-7. Mitigation analysis results for<br />
the hypothetical Katrina-West track (not shown here) resulted in similar percent reductions.<br />
Table 4 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results &#8211; 100% Implementation of<br />
Opening Protection for Residential Buildings<br />
Reporting Basis Minor<br />
Damage<br />
Moderate<br />
Damage<br />
Severe<br />
Damage Destruction<br />
Total<br />
Buildings<br />
Affected<br />
Residential<br />
Building &amp;<br />
Contents Loss<br />
(Billions)<br />
Percent<br />
Reduction<br />
from Katrina<br />
Estimate<br />
Katrina Estimate<br />
Damaged Building<br />
Count<br />
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0<br />
Building Count &#8211; 100%<br />
Opening Protection 159,304 69,911 14,234 4,342 247,791 $5.5 45%<br />
Table 5 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results &#8211; 100% Implementation of Roof<br />
to Wall Straps/Clips for Residential Buildings<br />
Reporting Basis Minor<br />
Damage<br />
Moderate<br />
Damage<br />
Severe<br />
Damage Destruction<br />
Total<br />
Buildings<br />
Affected<br />
Residential<br />
Building &amp;<br />
Contents Loss<br />
(Billions)<br />
Percent<br />
Reduction<br />
from Katrina<br />
Estimate<br />
Katrina Estimate<br />
Damaged Building<br />
Count<br />
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0<br />
Building Count &#8211; 100%<br />
Straps/Clips 154,486 78,252 27,718 13,029 273,485 $8.9 11%<br />
8<br />
Table 6 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results &#8211; 100% Implementation of<br />
Upgraded Roof Deck Attachment for Residential Buildings<br />
Reporting Basis Minor<br />
Damage<br />
Moderate<br />
Damage<br />
Severe<br />
Damage Destruction<br />
Total<br />
Buildings<br />
Affected<br />
Residential<br />
Building &amp;<br />
Contents Loss<br />
(Billions)<br />
Percent<br />
Reduction<br />
from Katrina<br />
Estimate<br />
Katrina Estimate<br />
Damaged Building<br />
Count<br />
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0<br />
Building Count &#8211; 100%<br />
Upgraded Roof Deck<br />
Attachment<br />
109,787 44,429 17,778 18,474 190,468 $8.0 20%<br />
Table 7 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results &#8211; 100% Implementation of all<br />
Four Mitigation Options for Residential Buildings<br />
Reporting Basis Minor<br />
Damage<br />
Moderate<br />
Damage<br />
Severe<br />
Damage Destruction<br />
Total<br />
Buildings<br />
Affected<br />
Residential<br />
Building &amp;<br />
Contents Loss<br />
(Billions)<br />
Percent<br />
Reduction<br />
from Katrina<br />
Estimate<br />
Katrina Estimate<br />
Damaged Building<br />
Count<br />
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0<br />
Building Count &#8211; 100%<br />
All Mitigation<br />
Strategies<br />
113,938 29,959 3,451 1,985 149,334 $2.1 79%<br />
Reduction in Economic Loss through Mitigation<br />
Using the mitigation strategies outlined above, HAZUS was also used to provide cost estimates<br />
of direct losses. Direct property damage losses are the estimated costs to repair or replace the<br />
damage caused to the building and its contents. Information from the HAZUS databases<br />
indicates that the Louisiana study region consists of 1,718,706 buildings with an aggregate total<br />
replacement value (excluding contents) of $235.9 billion (2002 dollars). Residential buildings<br />
make up 86% of the building value in the state of Louisiana, with total replacement value of<br />
$203.3 billion.<br />
The analysis for Hurricane Katrina estimates total losses (including business interruption) in the<br />
state of Louisiana of $13.1 billion. Residential losses make up 89% of the total loss at $10<br />
billion. Mitigation strategies were evaluated to assess the economic effectiveness of<br />
strengthening the residential building stock in the study area. Mitigation alternatives shutters on<br />
exterior openings, straps/clips at the roof to wall connection, upgraded roof deck attachment,<br />
secondary waterproofing for roof joints for single family, multi-family and mobile home<br />
9<br />
dwellings. Each of these mitigation strategies was applied to 100% of the study region building<br />
stock individually to assess the economic loss reduction effectiveness. An analysis combining<br />
all available mitigation strategies was also completed.<br />
Table 8 provides economic loss information modeled by HAZUS for Hurricane Katrina. These<br />
values represent modeled residential building and contents losses in the state of Louisiana.<br />
Percent of total replacement value represents the total residential losses normalized by the total<br />
replacement value of residential buildings in the state ($203.3 billion). Percent reduction reflects<br />
the reduction in economic losses for each mitigation option from the default analysis. Reduction<br />
in economic losses was seen at approximately the same percentages for each mitigation option in<br />
the hypothetical Katrina-West simulation.<br />
Table 8 –Residential Economic Loss Values for Hurricane Katrina Alone and Katrina with<br />
Mitigation Measures<br />
Analysis Type<br />
Residential<br />
Building &amp;<br />
Contents Loss<br />
(Billions)<br />
Percent of State<br />
Total<br />
Replacement<br />
Value<br />
Percent<br />
Reduction from<br />
Katrina Estimate<br />
Hurricane Katrina Estimate $10.0 4.9% N/A<br />
Mitigation &#8211; 100% Opening Protection $5.5 2.9% 45%<br />
Mitigation &#8211; 100% Straps/Clips $8.9 2.8% 11%<br />
Mitigation &#8211; 100% Upgraded Roof Deck $8.0 2.7% 20%<br />
Mitigation &#8211; 100% Secondary<br />
Waterproofing $8.9 4.4% 11%<br />
All 4 Mitigation Options Selected $2.1 1.0% 79%</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Installation of Duratech Chimney</title>
		<link>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/14/installation-of-duratech-chimney/</link>
		<comments>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/14/installation-of-duratech-chimney/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Jan 2008 18:02:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chimny Installation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/14/installation-of-duratech-chimney/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[DURATECH CHIMNEY
5&#8243;-8&#8243; DIAMETER
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
A MAJOR CAUSE OF CHIMNEY RELATED FIRES IS FAILURE
TO MAINTAIN REQUIRED CLEARANCES (AIR SPACES) TO
COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS. IT IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE
THAT THIS CHIMNEY BE INSTALLED ONLY IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
Read through all these instructions before beginning your installation. Failure
to install the chimney as described in these instructions will void the manufacturer’s
warranty [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=9&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>DURATECH CHIMNEY<br />
5&#8243;-8&#8243; DIAMETER<br />
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS<br />
A MAJOR CAUSE OF CHIMNEY RELATED FIRES IS FAILURE<br />
TO MAINTAIN REQUIRED CLEARANCES (AIR SPACES) TO<br />
COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS. IT IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE<br />
THAT THIS CHIMNEY BE INSTALLED ONLY IN<br />
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.<br />
Read through all these instructions before beginning your installation. Failure<br />
to install the chimney as described in these instructions will void the manufacturer’s<br />
warranty and may have an effect on your homeowner insurance and UL listing<br />
status. Keep these instructions for future use.<br />
CONTENTS<br />
CLEARANCES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1<br />
PERMITS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2<br />
DURATECH CHIMNEY APPLICATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2<br />
EQUIPMENT &amp; MATERIALS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2<br />
INSTALLATION NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3<br />
CHIMNEY DIAMETER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3<br />
CHIMNEY HEIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3<br />
CHIMNEY PLACEMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4<br />
CHIMNEY ENCLOSURE REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4<br />
STOVE RECOMMENDATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5<br />
STEP-BY-STEP DIRECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5<br />
CEILING SUPPORTED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5<br />
OFFSET ELBOW INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10<br />
EXTENDED ROOF BRACKET INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11<br />
ROOF SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12<br />
TEE-SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16<br />
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21<br />
ZERO-CLEARANCE FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22<br />
CONNECTION FROM APPLIANCE TO CHIMNEY SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . 22<br />
CHIMNEY MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23<br />
CLEARANCES<br />
Always allow at least a 2-inch clearance between DuraTech Chimney Pipe and<br />
any combustible materials. Never fill any required clearance space with<br />
insulation or any other materials. Combustible materials include lumber,<br />
MH7399<br />
2<br />
plywood, sheetrock, plaster and lath, furniture, curtains, electrical wiring and<br />
building insulation. Keep single wall stovepipe at least 18 inches away from<br />
combustible materials, unless a clearance reduction system that is acceptable<br />
to the authority having jurisdiction is used, or the appliance to be installed is<br />
listed and the instructions specify a different clearance.<br />
PERMITS<br />
Contact your local Building Official or Fire Official regarding permits, restrictions,<br />
and installation inspections in your area.<br />
DURATECH CHIMNEY APPLICATIONS<br />
DuraTech Chimney is a complete chimney system tested and listed to UL 103<br />
HT for the United States, and ULC S604 in Canada. In the U.S., DuraTech<br />
Chimney can be used with wood stoves, fireplaces, fireboxes, furnaces, boilers,<br />
water heaters, stoves, ranges, or other residential-type appliances fueled by oil,<br />
gas, coal, or wood, that require a UL103 HT chimney system. In Canada,<br />
DuraTech can be used with oil &amp; gas fired appliances listed for use with a Type<br />
A Chimney, in accordance with ULC S604 (DuraTech has not been approved<br />
for use with solid fuel appliances in Canada). DuraTech Chimney is available in<br />
5&#8243;, 6&#8243;, 7&#8243; &amp; 8&#8243; diameters (UL 103 HT Rated), as well as 10&#8243;, 12&#8243;, 14&#8243; &amp; 16&#8243;<br />
diameters (UL 103 Rated). Do not use with forced draft, positive-pressure<br />
appliances. The DuraTech Chimney system may have a maximum of two (2)<br />
offsets (four elbows total) of 30° from vertical. DuraTech Chimney is listed under<br />
UL Re-examination Service Number MH7399.<br />
EQUIPMENT &amp; MATERIALS<br />
Hammer Drill<br />
Caulking Gun Plumb Bob<br />
Screwdrivers (Phillips &amp; Standard) Tin Snips<br />
Saber or Keyhole Saw Level<br />
Dependable Ladder Tape Measure<br />
Proper Gloves and Shoes Eye Protection<br />
Materials You May Need:<br />
500OF RTV Silicone Sealant 8 Penny Nails<br />
#8, 2-1/2&#8243; &amp; 1-1/2&#8243; Wood Screws Roofing Nails<br />
3<br />
INSTALLATION NOTES<br />
Proper planning for your DuraTech Chimney installation will result in greater safety,<br />
efficiency, and convenience, as well as saving time and money. You must use only<br />
authorized DuraTech Chimney parts to maintain a listed Chimney system (not<br />
including the connector pipe). Do not mix parts or try to match with other products,<br />
or use improvised solutions. Do not install damaged or modified parts. Table 1 lists<br />
the authorized DuraTech Chimney components. Practice good workmanship.<br />
Sloppy work could jeopardize your chimney’s safety. Keep electrical wiring and<br />
insulation away from all chimneys and stovepipes. If you have any questions, be<br />
sure to contact either your dealer or Simpson Dura-Vent directly.<br />
CHIMNEY DIAMETER<br />
Follow the appliance manufacturer’s instructions to determine chimney diameter<br />
and clearances between combustible materials and your heating appliance. Never<br />
choose a chimney with an inside diameter smaller than your appliance&#8217;s outlet. To<br />
calculate the chimney’s outside diameter, add 2 inches to the inside diameter.<br />
CHIMNEY HEIGHT<br />
The National Fire Protection Association Standard #211 states: “Chimneys shall<br />
extend at least three feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof<br />
of a building, and at least two feet higher than any portion of a building within<br />
ten feet.” (Fig 1) DuraTech Chimney may be installed up to 60 feet high. If the<br />
chimney extends more than 5 feet above the roof, an Extended Roof Bracket must<br />
Table 1: DuraTech Chimney Components<br />
Part Part<br />
6&#8243;, 12&#8243;, 18&#8243;, 24&#8243;, 36&#8243; &amp; 48&#8243; Pipe Sections Firestop Radiation Shield<br />
Elbow with swivel Attic Insulation Shield<br />
Tee with Tee Cap Elbow Strap<br />
Adjustable Tee Support Bracket Adjustable Wall Strap<br />
Chimney Cap Anchor Plate<br />
Round Ceiling Support Box Extended Roof Bracket<br />
Trim collars for Round Support Boxes Adjustable Roof Flashing<br />
Square Ceiling Support Box Chase Top Flashing<br />
Flat Ceiling Support Box Flat Roof Flashing<br />
Roof Support Storm Collar<br />
Trim collar for Roof Support Transition Anchor Plate<br />
Wall Thimble Base Tee and Double Base Tee<br />
Finishing Collar Firestop<br />
be used (see page 12). Due to the overlap of<br />
the joints, subtract 1-1/4 inches from each<br />
Chimney Section’s height to calculate installed<br />
height.<br />
CHIMNEY PLACEMENT<br />
When deciding the location of your chimney,<br />
try to avoid modifications to roof beams and other structural components of the<br />
building.<br />
CHIMNEY ENCLOSURE REQUIREMENTS<br />
Through Rooms: Interior chimneys shall be enclosed where they extend<br />
through closets, storage areas, occupied spaces, or anyplace where the surface<br />
of the chimney could be contacted by persons or combustible materials. The<br />
space between the outer wall of the chimney and the enclosure shall be at least<br />
2 inches (Fig 2).<br />
Multi-Story: Consult local building codes for requirements in your area. In the<br />
U.S., the National Fire Protection Association Standard #211 states: &#8220;Factorybuilt<br />
chimneys that pass through floors of buildings requiring the protection of<br />
vertical openings shall be enclosed with approved<br />
walls having a fire resistance rating of not<br />
less than one hour when such chimneys are<br />
located in a building less than 4 stories in height,<br />
and not less than 2 hours when such chimneys are<br />
located in a building more than 4 stories in height.&#8221;<br />
In Canada, except in single-family and twofamily<br />
dwellings, chimneys which extend through<br />
another story must have an enclosure with a fire<br />
resistance rating equal to or greater than that of<br />
the floor or roof assembly through which they<br />
pass.<br />
Cold Climates: In cold climates, chimneys<br />
mounted on an outside wall should be enclosed in<br />
a chase. Exterior chases reduce condensation<br />
and creosote formation, and enhance draft. Include<br />
an access door by the Tee Cap for chimney<br />
cleaning (Refer to Fig 23, page 17).<br />
Fig 2<br />
ATTIC<br />
INSULATION<br />
SHIELD<br />
FIRESTOP<br />
RADIATION<br />
SHIELD<br />
(INSIDE)<br />
ENCLOSURE<br />
MUST HAVE 2<br />
INCHES OF<br />
CLEARANCE<br />
BETWEEN<br />
CHIMNEY AND<br />
WALL<br />
SUPPORT BOX<br />
ATTIC<br />
SPACE<br />
OCCUPIED<br />
SECOND<br />
FLOOR<br />
FIRST<br />
FLOOR<br />
4<br />
Fig 1<br />
2 FT. MIN. ABOVE<br />
HIGHEST POINT OF<br />
ROOF WITHIN 10 FT.<br />
10&#8242;<br />
3 FT. MIN.<br />
ABOVE ROOF<br />
5<br />
STOVE RECOMMENDATIONS<br />
Follow the stove manufacturer’s instructions. The requirements stated below<br />
pertain to all stoves or other appliances installed with DuraTech Chimney systems.<br />
Choice: Choose an appliance that is listed by a recognized testing laboratory, is<br />
appropriate for your needs, and is not larger than required.<br />
Installation: Once the chimney system is in place, install the stovepipe to<br />
connect the appliance to the chimney as described in the appliance manufacturer’s<br />
instructions. Be sure to maintain all required clearances.<br />
Flues: Connect only one solid fuel appliance per chimney.<br />
Operation: Follow the appliance manufacturer’s instructions for maximum efficiency<br />
and safety. Overfiring can damage the appliance, stovepipe and chimney.<br />
Fuels: Do not burn driftwood, plastic, or chemically treated wood such as railroad<br />
ties. They are corrosive to your appliance, stovepipe and chimney. Follow the<br />
appliance manufacturer’s instructions and safety manual in regards to fuels. Not all<br />
appliances are equipped to burn coal. Coal with a low sulfur content will reduce<br />
the possibility of corrosion.<br />
Mobile Homes: Please read the appliance manufacturer’s instructions and safety<br />
manual carefully. Not all appliances are listed for use in mobile homes.<br />
STEP-BY-STEP DIRECTIONS<br />
There are five general types of DuraTech Chimney installations:<br />
1. Ceiling-supported 2. Roof-supported<br />
3. Tee-supported (through-the-wall) 4. Masonry Fireplace<br />
5. Zero-Clearance Fireplace<br />
Review the step-by-step directions before beginning your installation.<br />
CEILING SUPPORTED<br />
1. Place Appliance: Position the appliance according to the manufacturer’s<br />
instructions. The flue outlet collar should be placed between the rafters or joists<br />
above, if possible.<br />
2. Frame Support Opening: Drop a plumb bob to the center of the appliance’s<br />
flue outlet and mark this center point on the ceiling. Refer to Table 2 for specific<br />
framing and clearance dimensions. Mark appropriate cutting lines around the<br />
center point. Cut a square hole in the ceiling for the Support Box. Frame a level,<br />
square opening centered over the hole which you have cut. (Figures 3 and 4).<br />
3. Install Support: For installation into a flat ceiling, you may use either the Round<br />
Support Box, the Flat Ceiling Support Box, or the Square Ceiling Support Box. The<br />
6<br />
Flat Ceiling Support Box is primarily used for Oil Appliances and comes unpainted.<br />
For the Square Ceiling Support Box, refer to the Square ceiling installation below.<br />
The Round Ceiling Support Box has the option of a square or round Trim Collar<br />
available (Fig 5). The bottom of the Round Support Box must extend at least 3<br />
inches below the finished ceiling. Level the Support Box and secure it to the framing<br />
using at least three 8-penny nails per side (min. of 12 total). Alternatively, you may<br />
use 1-1/2&#8243; #8 wood screws (min. of 12 total), instead of nails. Next, secure the Trim<br />
Collar (round or square) to the framing members using the (4) 1&#8243; long, round-head<br />
wood screws provided (Fig 6).<br />
For installation into a cathedral ceiling, you must use the Square Ceiling Support<br />
Box and the two-piece Trim. The bottom of the square portion of the Support Box<br />
must be a minimum of 2-inches lower (round portion is an additional 3 inches lower)<br />
than the finished ceiling at the lowest side of the penetration (Fig 5 &amp; 6). Level the<br />
Support Box and secure it to the framing using<br />
at least three (3) 8-penny nails per side (minimum<br />
of 12 nails total), or a minimum of (3) #8, 1-1/<br />
2&#8243; wood screws. Adjust the overlapping &#8220;Ushaped&#8221;<br />
Trim pieces so they cover the Support<br />
Fig 4 Box, and secure them to the framing members<br />
Fig 3<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
CAP<br />
STORM<br />
COLLAR<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
FLASHING<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTIONS<br />
MINIMUM OF 3<br />
INCHES BELOW<br />
FINISHED CEILING<br />
18 INCHES MINIMUM<br />
FOR SINGLE-WALL<br />
STOVEPIPE<br />
ATTIC<br />
INSULATION<br />
SHIELD<br />
FRAMED<br />
OPENING<br />
ROUND<br />
SUPPORT BOX ROUND TRIM<br />
COLLAR<br />
JOISTS &amp;<br />
FRAMING<br />
3-INCH MINIMUM<br />
REQUIRED BELOW<br />
FINISHED CEILING<br />
using the (6) 1-1/4&#8243; long, round head wood screws provided (see Fig 6).<br />
4. Frame Openings: Frame openings in each ceiling or floor above the Support<br />
Box (Fig 7). These openings are to hold the Firestop Radiation Shield and Attic<br />
Insulation Shield. Locate each opening by dropping a plumb bob to the four<br />
corners of the opening below. Maintain the minimum clearances and dimensions<br />
as specified in Table 2. If Elbows must be used to avoid an obstruction,<br />
refer to the Offset Elbow Installation section.<br />
5. Cut Roof Opening: Cut an opening in the roof directly above the opening<br />
below, and at least 4 inches larger than the chimney’s outside diameter to<br />
provide at least a 2-inch clearance all around the chimney. The chimney must<br />
be centered within this opening and maintain the 2-inch clearance to combustibles.<br />
6. Install Firestop Radiation Shield: A Firestop Radiation Shield is required<br />
in multistory installations at each floor penetration above that where the Support<br />
Box is located. Example: in a multistory home where the appliance is on the ground<br />
floor (Support Box is in the 1st floor ceiling), you would need a Firestop Radiation<br />
Shield at the 2nd floor ceiling, and at the 3rd floor ceiling, etc., including where the<br />
chimney penetrates into the attic. Figure 7 shows a typical 2-story installation with<br />
an attic. Note: a Firestop Radiation Shield is not installed where the chimney<br />
penetrates through the roof. The Firestop Radiation Shield is installed on the<br />
underside of the ceiling/floor framing, with the cylindrical &#8220;tube&#8221; portion of the shield<br />
Fig 5<br />
Fig 6<br />
SQUARE CEILING<br />
SUPPORT BOX WITH<br />
TRIM FRAME IN<br />
PLACE<br />
WOOD SCREWS<br />
ARE REQUIRED<br />
ROUND CEILING<br />
SUPPORT WITH<br />
TRIM IN PLACE<br />
ROUND SUPPORT BOX<br />
WITH ROUND TRIM<br />
COLLAR<br />
WOOD SCREWS<br />
ARE REQUIRED<br />
MINIMUM OF 2<br />
INCHES BELOW<br />
FINISHED<br />
CEILING<br />
7<br />
3 INCHES MIN<br />
BELOW<br />
FINISHED<br />
CEILING<br />
ROUND SUPPORT BOX<br />
WITH SQUARE TRIM<br />
COLLAR<br />
8<br />
Fig 7<br />
ROUND<br />
SUPPORT BOX<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
MINIMUM OF 3<br />
INCHES BELOW<br />
FINSHED CEILING<br />
18 INCH MINIMUM<br />
FOR SINGLE WALL<br />
STOVEPIPE<br />
FRAMED<br />
OPENING<br />
FIRESTOP<br />
RADIATION<br />
SHIELD<br />
ATTIC<br />
INSULATION<br />
SHIELD<br />
FRAMED<br />
ENCLOSURE<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
2 INCH MINIMUM<br />
CLEARANCE TO<br />
INSIDE OF<br />
ENCLOSURE<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
FLASHING<br />
STORM<br />
COLLAR<br />
CAP<br />
pointing upward (Fig 8). Use a<br />
minimum of either (1) 8 penny nail<br />
or (1) #8, 1-1/2&#8243; wood screws per<br />
corner. Refer to Table 2 for framing<br />
requirements.<br />
7. Assemble Chimney Sections:<br />
Lower the female end of the first<br />
Chimney Section in the Support<br />
Box (Fig 9). It will twist-lock<br />
clockwise onto the male end of the<br />
Support Box. Turn Pipe Sections<br />
firmly clockwise to lock them together.<br />
Sheet metal screws are not<br />
required, but they may be used to<br />
reinforce the connection, if desired.<br />
Use only 1/2&#8243; (or shorter) sheet<br />
metal screws. Do not penetrate the<br />
inner liner of the chimney.<br />
8. Install Attic Insulation Shield:<br />
Install the Attic Insulation Shield<br />
where the chimney passes into an<br />
attic. It’s purpose is to prevent<br />
debris and insulation from getting<br />
too close to the chimney (Fig 10).<br />
An installed Attic Insulation Shield<br />
is 15 inches high. In attic areas<br />
where this shield cannot fit, you<br />
must enclose the attic portion of the<br />
chimney in a framed enclosure. If<br />
thechimneyisfullyenclosedthrough<br />
the attic, an Attic Insulation Shield<br />
is not required. If the chimney<br />
passes into the attic, install the Attic<br />
Insulation Shield as follows:<br />
a. If the Firestop Radiation Shield<br />
extends above the attic floor, no<br />
modifications are necessary. The<br />
Table 2<br />
9<br />
Firestop Radiation Shield will fit inside the Attic Insulation<br />
Shield.<br />
b. Assemble Chimney Sections until at least 18 inches of<br />
chimney extends above the Firestop Radiation Shield.<br />
c. Extend the Firestop Radiation Shield tube extension<br />
(keep at least 1&#8243; overlap), and secure in place using sheet<br />
metal screws.<br />
d. Slip the Attic Insulation Shield over the Chimney and<br />
Firestop Radiation Shield until the base sits squarely on<br />
the framed opening (Fig 7 &amp; 10).<br />
e. Secure the Attic Insulation Shield to the top of the<br />
framed opening using at least (3) 8-penny nails or (3) #8, 1-1/2&#8243; wood screws per<br />
side (Fig 10).<br />
f. Wrap the Collar of the Attic Insulation Shield around the chimney and fasten<br />
it loosely. Slide the Collar down to meet the Attic Insulation Shield. Slip the tab<br />
through the adjacent slot and fold it back to tighten and secure the Collar (Fig 11).<br />
9. Attach Flashing: In new construction, assemble the Chimney Sections to a<br />
point above the roof, then slip the Flashing over the chimney. On an existing roof,<br />
center and install the Flashing before extending the chimney above the roof. Allow<br />
space to permit sliding the next Chimney Section up through the Flashing. Always<br />
insure the chimney remains vertical (use level), and that at least a 2-inch clearance<br />
to combustible materials is maintained all around. Install the upper edge of the<br />
Flashing under the roofing. Nail to the roof along the upper edge and down each<br />
side with 1-inch roofing nails. Do not nail the lower edge of the Flashing (Fig 12).<br />
Be sure to follow local building practices, as needed. Seal all nail heads with a nonhardening<br />
waterproof sealant. On flat or tarred and graveled roofs, nail and seal<br />
the Flat Roof Flashing to the roof on all sides with roofing compound. Do not put<br />
screws through the Flashing into the Chimney Pipe.<br />
10. Finish Top: Apply a high-temperature (500OF), non-hardening waterproof<br />
Fig 8<br />
FRAMING<br />
FIRESTOP<br />
RADIATION<br />
SHIELD<br />
Fig 9 Fig 10<br />
TWIST<br />
CLOCKWISE<br />
TO TIGHTEN<br />
ROUND<br />
ATTIC<br />
INSULATION<br />
SHIELD<br />
10<br />
Fig 12 Fig 13<br />
PUSH COLLAR<br />
DOWN TO<br />
FLASHING AND<br />
SEAL WITH NONHARDENING<br />
HIGHTEMP<br />
SILICONE<br />
SEALANT<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
FLASHING<br />
ROOFING<br />
FASTENERS<br />
sealant around the chimney at the point where the Storm<br />
Collar will meet the chimney just above the Flashing.<br />
(Figures 12 and 13). Slide the Storm Collar down over the<br />
chimney to the top of the Flashing. Tighten and seal the<br />
Storm Collar against the sealant. After installing sufficient<br />
Chimney Sections to meet the height requirement (Fig 1),<br />
attach the Chimney Cap onto the top of the chimney by<br />
holding the collar of the cap and twist locking it clockwise<br />
onto the chimney. Do not hold upper portion of the cap and twist, as this may<br />
damage the cap. The Chimney Cap can be removed for chimney cleaning as<br />
described in the Chimney Maintenance section of the instructions. Use an Extended<br />
Roof Bracket if the chimney extends more than 5 feet above the roof. (Figures 16<br />
&amp; 17 in the Extended Roof Bracket section). If you are located in heavy snow<br />
country, it is recommended that a &#8220;splitter&#8221; be installed, and should be fabricated<br />
from heavy gauge sheet metal (Fig 14). This will protect the chimney by routing the<br />
snow around it. This item is not furnished by Simpson Dura-Vent.<br />
11. Enclosures: Enclose chimneys where they pass through occupied spaces,<br />
including closets. Always maintain at least a 2 inch clearance between the chimney<br />
and any combustible materials. Interior enclosures may be constructed with<br />
standard framing and sheathed with sheetrock or plywood. Use Wall Straps as<br />
needed to maintain a minimum of 2 inches of air space between the chimney and<br />
combustible materials.<br />
OFFSET ELBOW INSTALLATION<br />
Elbows are manufactured in 15° and 30° angles measured from the vertical. A 30°<br />
Elbow is the largest that can be used in an offset. A 30° Elbow may not be combined<br />
with a 15° Elbow to make a 45° offset. Avoid Elbows if possible, since a totally<br />
vertical chimney is more efficient. When Elbows are necessary to avoid obstructions<br />
such as rafters, ridgepoles, or joists, use no more than 2 pairs of Elbows in any<br />
one chimney system.<br />
Fig 11<br />
11<br />
Fig 15<br />
NOT MORE THAN 72<br />
INCHES<br />
(2 SECTIONS MAX)<br />
ELBOW STRAP<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
ELBOW<br />
OFFSET<br />
(INCHES)<br />
TWO CHIMNEY<br />
SECTIONS<br />
RISE<br />
(INCHES)<br />
ELBOW<br />
ELBOW STRAP<br />
SECOND ELBOW STRAP<br />
REQUIRED WHEN TWO<br />
CHIMNEY SECTIONS ARE<br />
USED IN OFFSET<br />
Fig 14<br />
1. Attach Elbows: Attach Elbow to Chimney<br />
Section or other Elbow by twisting clockwise until<br />
they lock firmly. Attach one Elbow to the Chimney<br />
Section below, and align it for the offset. Elbows for<br />
DuraTech have a swivel feature that allow for 360O<br />
rotation for ease of installation. Refer to Table 3 to<br />
determine the required offset length and attach an<br />
appropriate length (or lengths) of Chimney<br />
Section(s) above the Elbow. The maximum length<br />
of chimney pipe between elbows is not to exceed<br />
72&#8243; (maximum of two chimney sections only).<br />
Attach the second Elbow above the Chimney Section<br />
to complete the offset (Fig 15).<br />
2. Secure Offset: Place the Elbow Strap’s band around the angled portion of the<br />
top Elbow, then tighten the nut and bolt until the clamp is firm. Wrap the Elbow<br />
Strap end over an adjacent joist or rafter and secure it with at least (2) 8-penny nails<br />
or (2) #8, 1-1/2 screws. Do not add more Chimney Sections until the Elbows are<br />
supported. Be sure that the chimney remains vertical. If there is more than one<br />
Chimney Section between the Elbows, install a second Elbow Strap around the<br />
joint of the two Chimney Sections (Fig 15).<br />
EXTENDED ROOF BRACKET INSTALLATION<br />
If the chimney extends more than 5 feet above the roofline, an Extended Roof<br />
SPLITTER<br />
SPLITTER<br />
TOP<br />
VIEW<br />
12<br />
Bracket must be installed at every 5-foot increment<br />
of chimney height above the roofline,<br />
leaving no more than 5 feet of chimney extending<br />
above the last pipe bracket. The Extended<br />
Roof Bracket consists of the Pipe Band, the<br />
Adjustable Legs, and the Roof Brackets.<br />
1. Mount Pipe Band: Slip the Pipe Band<br />
around the chimney and secure by tightening<br />
the nut and bolt.<br />
2. Attach the Legs: The Adjustable Legs of<br />
the assembly will adjust from 67&#8243; to 114&#8243;.<br />
Secure one end of the Legs to the Pipe Band<br />
using the nuts and bolts included (1 per Leg).<br />
Position the Adjustable legs so they form approximately<br />
a 60° angle with the chimney, and<br />
with each other (Figures 16 and 17). Be sure<br />
that there is at least 3&#8243; of overlap between the<br />
top and bottom halves of the Adjustable Leg.<br />
In order to secure Legs in proper position,<br />
there is a hole provided in the outer leg where<br />
the outer and inner halves overlap. Use a 1/4&#8243;<br />
drill bit to drill through the inner leg at that<br />
location. Use the nut &amp; bolt provided to pin the<br />
Adjustable Legs in position.<br />
3. Install Roof Brackets: Mount the two Roof Brackets where each of the<br />
Adjustable Legs meets the roof, using (6) 1&#8243; roofing nails per bracket. Seal the nail<br />
heads carefully with a non-hardening, waterproof sealant. Attach the bottom end<br />
of the Adjustable Legs to the Roof Brackets using the nuts &amp; bolts provided.<br />
ROOF SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS<br />
There are two types of Roof Supported Installations: (1) Using a Square Ceiling<br />
Support Box, and (2) Using a Roof Support.<br />
(1) For a Square Ceiling Support Box installation, make sure that the square box<br />
portion of the Support Box can extend at least 2&#8243; below the low side of the finished<br />
ceiling (Fig 19). The Support Box must remain level, and the top edge of the box<br />
must cover the edge of the roof’s decking material. Square Ceiling Support Boxes<br />
are available in 11-inch, 24-inch, and 36-inch heights. Mobile home chimney<br />
TABLE 3<br />
ELBOW OFFSET CHART<br />
13<br />
installations are roof supported. Do not seal openings in flashing.<br />
1. Place Appliance: Place the appliance in its proper location, referring to the<br />
manufacturer’s instructions as to allowable distances from combustibles, etc.<br />
2. Cut Openings: Cut a roof opening in your desired location, just as in a Ceiling-<br />
Supported Installation (Steps 1 through 5, page 5). If a separate ceiling and roof<br />
exists, as shown in Figure 18 (Low Attic), first cut and frame a ceiling opening as<br />
described in Ceiling-Supported Installations (Step 2). Refer to Table 2 for<br />
clearance and framing specifications. If it is desired to install through a cathedral<br />
ceiling (Fig 19), then the hole is cut in the roof.<br />
3. Install Support Box: Slip the Square Support Box into the framed opening so<br />
the square portion projects at least 2 inches below the finished ceiling and rafters<br />
(bottom of round portion is 5&#8243; below), and extends above the ceiling to framing or<br />
decking materials that it can be nailed to. Level the Support Box, and slit the<br />
corners to the roofline where they extend beyond it. Bend the flaps (created by the<br />
slitting) flush with the roof, and nail the Support Box to the roof or framing with at<br />
least three (3) 8-penny nails, or (3) 1-1/2&#8243;, #8 screws, per side (Fig 20). Be sure<br />
to keep the Support Box level. Screw the trim sections into the ceiling (Fig 6).<br />
4. Complete Installation: Refer to Steps 7, 9 &amp; 10 in the Ceiling Supported<br />
Installation section to complete the Roof Supported installation.<br />
(2) A Roof Support is also used in installations where there is a cathedral ceiling,<br />
and a Square Ceiling Support is not desired. The Roof Support allows the<br />
DuraTech chimney to come down into the room below the level of the ceiling (Fig<br />
21). The Roof Support can support a maximum of 45 feet of DuraTech Chimney<br />
total, and maximum of 20 feet below the support. If a taller stack of DuraTech<br />
Chimney is required, you must use a Square Ceiling Support Box instead.<br />
Fig 16 Fig 17<br />
PIPE BAND<br />
AROUND<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
EXTENDED ROOF<br />
BRACKET ASSEMBLY<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
CAP<br />
EXTENDED<br />
ROOF BRACKET<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
LEGS<br />
ADJUSTIBLE<br />
LEGS ADJUST<br />
FROM 67 TO 114<br />
INCHES<br />
MUST USE EXT.<br />
ROOF BRACKET<br />
IF OVER 5 FT.<br />
14<br />
Fig 19<br />
SQUARE PORTION OF<br />
SUPPORT BOX NEEDS A<br />
MINIMUM OF 2 INCHES<br />
CLEARANCE TO<br />
FINISHED CEILING<br />
FRAMED<br />
OPENING<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
FLASHING<br />
CHIMNEY CAP<br />
STORM COLLAR<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
SQUARE<br />
CEILING<br />
SUPPORT BOX<br />
18 INCH MINIMUM<br />
CLEARANCE FOR<br />
SINGLE-WALL<br />
STOVEPIPE<br />
18 INCH MINIMUM<br />
CLEARANCE FOR<br />
SINGLE-WALL<br />
STOVEPIPE<br />
SQUARE PORTION OF<br />
SUPPORT BOX NEEDS<br />
A MINIMUM OF 2<br />
INCHES CLEARANCE<br />
TO LOW SIDE OF<br />
FINISHED CEILING<br />
STORM COLLAR<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
FLASHING<br />
Fig 18<br />
SQUARE CEILING<br />
SUPPORT BOX<br />
14<br />
CHIMNEY CAP<br />
15<br />
1. Cut and frame opening to provide a minimum 2&#8243;<br />
clearance on all sides of the chimney pipe. Note:<br />
Opening in finished ceiling should be circular/oval in<br />
order for it to be covered by Trim Collar.<br />
2. Bolt on the Roof Support Brackets to the Roof<br />
Support Band using the supplied hardware. Attach<br />
the Roof Support Brackets to roof using (4) 8 penny<br />
nails or (4) #8, 1-1/2&#8243; screws per side (Fig 21).<br />
3. Determine how much DuraTech Chimney will be extending into the room<br />
(minimum of 3&#8243; below the ceiling). Be sure to maintain the proper clearance to<br />
combustibles (walls and ceilings) for the connector pipe. Once you have identified<br />
the proper height for your installation, attach the of the Roof Support Band to the<br />
Chimney Section by tightening the Bolt, and secure it by using (4) supplied sheet<br />
metal screws.<br />
4. Attach desired length of Chimney Sections above and below the roof level (max.<br />
of 45&#8242; total, 20&#8242; below the support). To transition to the Connector Pipe, attach the<br />
Finishing Collar by twist locking it to the bottom section of DuraTech Chimney.<br />
5. Slide Trim Collar over the DuraTech Chimney and attach the Trim Collar to the<br />
ceiling using (4) 1-1/4&#8243; screws provided (Fig 21).<br />
6. Refer to Steps 10 &amp; 11 in the Ceiling Supported Installation section (page 9)<br />
to complete the Roof Supported installation.<br />
Alternative Installation Location for Roof Support: The Roof Support may be<br />
used at the bottom of a Chimney installation (Fig 22). This may be useful for some<br />
Fig 20<br />
USE 4 NAILS (OR<br />
SCREWS) ON EACH<br />
SIDE OF SUPPORT<br />
ROOF SUPPORT<br />
(SUPPORT<br />
BRACKETS<br />
AND BAND)<br />
OPENING IN ROOF<br />
WITH MINIMUM 2&#8243;<br />
CLEARANCE ON ALL<br />
Fig 21 SIDES<br />
DURA-BLACK<br />
SLIP CONNECTOR<br />
ROOF SUPPORT<br />
TRIM COLLAR<br />
FINISHING<br />
COLLAR<br />
SECURE ROOF<br />
SUPPORT BAND<br />
TO CHIMNEY<br />
USING 4 SHEET<br />
METAL SCREWS<br />
TIGHTEN BOLT<br />
ON ROOF<br />
SUPPORT BAND<br />
16<br />
basement installations. Maintain a minimum<br />
of 2” clearance to combustibles at<br />
all times. The DuraTech Chimney needs<br />
to extend a minimum of 3” below the finished<br />
ceiling or exposed framing members.<br />
Please note that you cannot extend the<br />
chimney all the way to the appliance &#8211; you<br />
must have some connector pipe.<br />
1. Cut and frame opening to provide a<br />
minimum of 2&#8243; clearance on all sides of the<br />
chimney. Be sure to maintain the proper<br />
clearance to combustibles for the<br />
connector pipe.<br />
2. Bolt on the Roof Support Brackets to<br />
the Roof Support Band using the supplied hardware. Attach the Roof Support<br />
Brackets to floor using (4) 8 penny nails or (4) #8, 1-1/2&#8243; screws per side (Fig 22).<br />
3. Determine how much DuraTech Chimney will be extending into the room<br />
(minimum of 3&#8243; below the framing), and attach the of the Roof Support Band to the<br />
Chimney Section by tightening the Bolt, and secure it by using (4) supplied sheet<br />
metal screws (Fig 21 &amp; 22).<br />
4. Install the specialized Firestop below the finished ceiling or framing members.<br />
The Firestop can only be used when installed with the Roof Support in this type of<br />
installation. Use a standard Firestop Radiation Shield at all other locations.<br />
5. Follow steps 4, 5 &amp; 6 for the Roof Support Installation (page 15).<br />
TEE-SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS<br />
Tee-Supported installations are used when passing through a wall to an outside<br />
chimney. The Tee Support can hold a maximum of 60 feet of DuraTech Chimney.<br />
The Tee Support and Wall Straps are adjustable, allowing from 2&#8243; &#8211; 6&#8243; of clearance<br />
between the chimney and the wall, as needed to fit your installation. There are two<br />
options when installing a Tee-Supported installation: the Tee Support above the<br />
Tee, or the Tee Support below the Tee. The required parts and general<br />
configuration are as shown in Figures 23, 24, 25 and 26.<br />
1. Place Appliance: Position the appliance according to the manufacturer’s<br />
instructions. It is a good idea to try to position the appliance so it will allow the<br />
chimney to line up centered between studs.<br />
2. Locate, Cut &amp; Frame Opening: Determine the location where the chimney<br />
DURATECH<br />
CHIMNEY PIPE<br />
ROOF<br />
SUPPORT<br />
FIRESTOP<br />
FRAMING<br />
MEMBERS<br />
(ALL SIDES)<br />
FLOORING<br />
MINIMUM OF 3&#8243;<br />
BELOW CEILING<br />
OR EXPOSED<br />
FRAMING<br />
Fig 22<br />
17<br />
will pass through the wall. The chimney<br />
should pass through the wall, centered<br />
between two studs. The height of the<br />
penetration can be determined by positioning<br />
sections of stove pipe until you have the<br />
desired configuration (refer to the appliance<br />
manufacturer&#8217;s installation instructions for<br />
restrictions on stove pipe). Cut and frame an<br />
opening in the inner and outer walls at this<br />
location. Refer to Table 2 (page <img src='http://s.wordpress.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif' alt='8)' class='wp-smiley' /> for the<br />
appropriate framing dimensions.<br />
3. Install Wall Thimble: The Wall Thimble<br />
is a three piece unit which includes the cover<br />
plate, sleeve extension, and the back portion<br />
with shield. On the outside wall, install the<br />
back portion of the Wall Thimble. Center the back portion of the Wall Thimble<br />
(with shield inside wall) in the framed opening of the outside wall. Be sure to seal<br />
the flange of the Wall Thimble around the wall by using a non-hardening waterproof<br />
sealant. Attach the back portion of the Wall Thimble to the outside wall using at least<br />
(4) 8-penny nails or (4) #8, 1-1/2&#8243; wood screws. Depending on the thickness of<br />
your wall, you will need to adjust the shield extension to insure that you have a<br />
continuous shield throughout the wall penetration. You may field-fabricate a longer<br />
extension tube if needed. Adjustments can be made by sliding the extension in or<br />
out of the back portion of the shield. Verify that the shield extension reaches the<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
CHIMNEY TEE<br />
TEE BRANCH<br />
(MUST PENETRATE<br />
A MINIMUM OF 6<br />
INCHES INTO<br />
ROOM)<br />
WALL THIMBLE<br />
ASSEMBLY<br />
TEE CAP<br />
FINISHING COLLAR<br />
Fig 24<br />
ACCESS<br />
DOOR FOR<br />
CLEANING<br />
TYPICAL THRUTHE-<br />
WALL TEE<br />
SUPPORTED<br />
INSTALLATION<br />
FRAMED<br />
EXTERIOR<br />
ENCLOSURE<br />
CHASE TOP<br />
FLASHING<br />
MINIMUM 6 INCHES<br />
CLEARANCE<br />
BETWEEN CAP AND<br />
CHASE TOP<br />
Fig 23<br />
17<br />
USE 8-PENNY NAILS OR #8, 2-1/1&#8243;<br />
WOOD SCREWS. USE 4 FOR EACH<br />
SUPPORT LEG.<br />
TEE SUPPORT IS ADJUSTIBLE TO<br />
ALLOW FROM 2&#8243;-6&#8243; CLEARANCE<br />
FROM CHIMNEY TO WALL<br />
front cover plate when the cover plate is in position. Do not install cover plate at<br />
this time. When the shield extension is in position, secure it to the back portion of<br />
the shield using (4) sheet metal screws (Fig 25).<br />
4. Install Tee Support: Install the Tee Support on the outside wall. Position Tee<br />
Support so that the chimney Tee will be centered inside the Wall Thimble (Figs 24,<br />
25, &amp; 26). The Tee Support may be installed either above the Tee or below the<br />
Tee as seen in Figure 26. Important: Verify that Tee Support is level, and secure<br />
the leg brackets of the Tee Support to the wall using (4) #8, 2-1/2&#8243; screws for each<br />
side. Slide support base over leg brackets to adjust for desired clearance to wall,<br />
and secure by tightening bolts. (Figs 26 &amp; 27).<br />
5. Install Tee and Cleanout Chimney Section: Twist lock the Tee onto a<br />
desired length of Chimney to be used as the cleanout section. Use only one chimney<br />
section (any length) to attach to bottom of the Tee. Tighten support band around<br />
TEE BRANCH<br />
(MUST EXTEND<br />
AT LEAST 6<br />
INCHES INTO<br />
ROOM)<br />
WALL<br />
THIMBLE<br />
COVER<br />
PLATE<br />
SHIELD<br />
EXTENSION<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
TEE<br />
BACK OF WALL<br />
THIMBLE (SECURE<br />
WITH 4 NAILS OR 4<br />
SCREWS)<br />
INSIDE OUTSIDE<br />
FINISHING<br />
COLLAR<br />
Fig 25<br />
ADJUSTABLE WALL<br />
STRAP &#8211; ALLOWS 2&#8243;-6&#8243;<br />
CLEARANCE TO WALL<br />
8-PENNY NAILS OR<br />
#8, 2-1/2&#8243; WOOD<br />
SCREWS &#8211; 2 PER SIDE USE (4) 1/2&#8243; SHEET<br />
METAL SCREWS<br />
TO SECURE BAND<br />
AROUND CHIMNEY<br />
ADJUSTABLE TEE<br />
SUPPORT ALLOWS 2&#8243;-6&#8243;<br />
CLEARANCE TO WALL<br />
CLEANOUT CAP<br />
USE 1/2&#8243; SHEET<br />
METAL SCREWS<br />
TO SECURE BAND<br />
TO SUPPORT BASE<br />
INSTALLATION<br />
WITH TEE ABOVE<br />
TEE SUPPORT<br />
(SHOWN WITH LEG<br />
BRACKETS<br />
MOUNTED BELOW<br />
SUPPORT PLATE)<br />
INSTALLATION<br />
WITH TEE BELOW<br />
TEE SUPPORT<br />
(SHOWN WITH LEG<br />
BRACKETS<br />
MOUNTED ABOVE<br />
SUPPORT PLATE)<br />
Fig 26<br />
18<br />
8-PENNY NAILS OR #8, 2-1/2&#8243;<br />
WOOD SCREWS &#8211; 4 PER SIDE<br />
TEE SUPPORT MAY BE INSTALLED<br />
WITH LEG BRACKETS ABOVE OR<br />
BELOW SUPPORT PLATE AS SHOWN<br />
19<br />
chimney section at proper height to insure<br />
that Tee is centered through Wall Thimble<br />
(Fig 25 &amp; 26). Use the 1/2&#8243; sheet metal<br />
screws provided to insure a tight connection<br />
between support band and chimney<br />
section. Connect support band to support<br />
base using the 1/2&#8243; sheet metal screws<br />
provided (Fig 26). Twist lock Tee Cap<br />
into bottom of Chimney Cleanout section.<br />
6. Install Branch onto Tee: From inside<br />
the house, attach the Chimney Branch (a<br />
12&#8243; or 18&#8243; Chimney section, depending on<br />
wall thickness, positioned horizontally used<br />
to pass through the wall) to the Tee by twist<br />
locking it clockwise. Important: The Chimney section used to penetrate through the<br />
wall must extend at least 6&#8243; into the room (Fig 25 &amp; 27). Use high-temperature<br />
sealant (500OF) to seal between the Wall Thimble and the Chimney on the outer<br />
wall.<br />
7. Install Cover Plate and Finishing Collar: After the Chimney Branch is<br />
secured in place (penetrating at least 6&#8243; into the room), slide the Cover Plate over<br />
the Branch and attach it to the framing using (4) 1-1/4&#8243; long, round head wood<br />
screws. Be sure that the Branch is centered in the opening of the Cover Plate. Twist<br />
lock the Finishing Collar on to the female end of the Chimney Branch by twisting<br />
clockwise.<br />
8. Complete Chimney: Attach the Chimney Sections as in Step 7 in the Ceiling<br />
Supported Installation section (page 8). Secure the chimney to the wall with Wall<br />
Straps at a minimum of 8-foot intervals and maintain at least 2 inches of clearance<br />
to combustible materials. The Wall Straps are adjustable to allow from 2&#8243;- 6&#8243;<br />
clearance to combustibles. Slip the Wall Straps around the chimney, tighten the<br />
bolts, adjust the clearance, and fasten the Wall Straps to the wall with (4) #8, 1-<br />
Fig 28<br />
2 INCHES MINIMUM<br />
ALLOW A MINIMUM 2 INCHES MINIMUM<br />
OF 2 INCHES AIR<br />
SPACE ON ALL SIDES<br />
19<br />
Fig 27<br />
EXTENDED ROOF<br />
SUPPORT<br />
BRACKET<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
WALL STRAP<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
FLASHING<br />
2 INCHES MINIMUM<br />
FRAMED CHASE<br />
ACCESS DOOR<br />
FOR CLEANING<br />
2 INCHES<br />
MINIMUM<br />
ADJUSTABLE<br />
TEE SUPPORT<br />
6 INCHES<br />
MINIMUM<br />
INTO ROOM<br />
1/2&#8243; long wood screws. Once the chimney is at the minimum height specified in<br />
Figure 1, attach the Chimney Cap onto the top of the chimney by holding it by the<br />
collar and twist locking it clockwise onto the Chimney Pipe. If the chimney<br />
penetrates an overhang, frame for at least 2 inches of clearance, and install Flashing<br />
and Storm Collar as described in Steps 9 &amp; 10 for Ceiling Supported Installations<br />
(page 9). Another option is to cut away the overhang for a 2-inch clearance (Fig<br />
28). If the chimney extends more than 5 feet above the top Wall Strap or Flashing,<br />
use an Extended Roof Support Bracket (See page 11).<br />
9. Install Chase Top Flashing: It is recommended that a Tee Supported<br />
Chimney be enclosed in a chase. If a chase enclosure has been constructed, you<br />
can either use a standard flat-roof flashing, or you can use a Chase Top Flashing.<br />
Using a Chase Top Flashing allows for a lower profile for the chimney. The Chase<br />
Top Flashing has an opening that is 3&#8243; larger in diameter than the DuraTech<br />
Chimney. If the Chase Top Flashing can fit over your chase enclosure as required<br />
(Fig 29) then install as directed, or trim as needed. However, if the Chase Top<br />
Flashing is smaller than your chase enclosure, you will need to provide a galvanized<br />
sheet capable of covering your chase and overhanging the sides by 1/2 &#8211; 3/4 inch.<br />
Attach the Chase Top Flashing to the galvanized sheet using appropriate sheet metal<br />
screws and non-hardening waterproof sealant. Use the Chase Top Flashing<br />
Spacers to allow the proper air-gap clearances<br />
on the galvanized sheet. The Chase Top Flashing<br />
Spacers are available to insure that the<br />
Fig 29<br />
ALLOW A 1 INCH AIR<br />
GAP BETWEEN<br />
STORM COLLAR AND<br />
CHASE TOP FLASHING<br />
3/8 INCH AIR SPACE<br />
ESTABLISHED BY<br />
SPACERS<br />
STORM<br />
COLLAR<br />
CHASE TOP<br />
FLASHING<br />
3/8 INCH<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
CAP<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTIONS<br />
6 INCH MINIMUM<br />
CLEARANCE<br />
BETWEEN BOTTOM<br />
OF CAP AND CHASE<br />
TOP FLASHING<br />
FRAMED CHASE<br />
ENCLOSURE<br />
1/4 INCH<br />
AIR<br />
SPACE<br />
1/4 INCH<br />
SPACER<br />
20<br />
21<br />
proper air-gap is maintained. Figure 29 displays in some detail, how these air gaps<br />
are established using the Spacers and Chase Top Flashing. Secure the Chase Top<br />
Flashing to the chase using a sufficient number of #8, 1-1/2&#8243; wood screws, being<br />
careful to insure the air gap is maintained between the flashing and the chase. Seal<br />
the screw heads with non-hardening sealant. When installing the Storm Collar,<br />
allow a 1&#8243; air space between the bottom of the Storm Collar and the Chase Top<br />
Flashing .<br />
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS<br />
1. Determine Chimney Size: Use Table 4 to determine the correct diameter<br />
chimney for your fireplace.<br />
2. Mount Anchor Plate: Chimneys for masonry fireplaces begin with an Anchor<br />
Plate. Make sure the surface of the masonry chimney has a level surface on which<br />
to attach the Anchor Plate. If the top of the masonry does not have a level surface,<br />
then you will need to modify the masonry accordingly. Center the Anchor Plate over<br />
the masonry flue opening, and seal the Anchor Plate with a high-temperature<br />
(1000OF) sealant. Secure Anchor Plate with (4) 1/4&#8243; x 2&#8243; masonry anchors (Fig<br />
30). It is very important that the Anchor Plate is level. Be sure to maintain a 1&#8243; min.<br />
clearance to combustibles from the Anchor Plate.<br />
3. Attach Chimney: Twist lock the first Chimney Section clockwise onto the<br />
Anchor Plate.<br />
Table 4<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
HEIGHT<br />
FIREPLACE<br />
OPENING<br />
WIDTH<br />
DOTTED LINE REPRESENTS SAMPLE PROBLEM<br />
EXAMPLE SHOWS FIREPLACE OPENING AS 36 INCHES WIDE,<br />
30 INCHES HIGHT, AND THE CHIMNEY HEIGHT AS 20 FEET.<br />
tHE CORRECT FLUE SIZE FOR THE SAMPLE PROBLEM IS 12<br />
INCH DIAMETER CHIMNEY.<br />
FIREPLACE<br />
OPENING<br />
HEIGHT<br />
21<br />
22<br />
4. Finish Chimney: Install the rest of the chimney as directed in the Ceiling<br />
Supported Installation section, Steps 4 through 10 (page 7). Refer to Figure 1 and<br />
Table 4 for chimney height requirements. Always maintain at least 2 inches of<br />
clearance to combustible materials, and enclose the chimney where it passes<br />
through occupied areas. Use a Wall Strap for every eight (8) feet of chimney height.<br />
ZERO-CLEARANCE FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS<br />
1. Manufacturer’s Instructions: Carefully read and comply with the<br />
manufacturer’s installation instructions for your fireplace. Be sure that DuraTech<br />
is approved for use with your appliance.<br />
2. Anchor Plate: Attach an Anchor Plate to the fireplace top with (4) 5/8&#8243; sheet<br />
metal screws (Fig 31). Check with the appliance manufacture about the use of high<br />
temperature sealants.<br />
3. Chimney Sections: Attach a Chimney Section to the Anchor Plate by twistlocking<br />
clockwise.<br />
4. Completion: Install the remainder of the chimney as instructed for a standard<br />
Ceiling-Supported installation, (using a Firestop Radiation Shield in the 1st<br />
floor ceiling instead of the Support Box). Always maintain at least 2 inches of<br />
clearance to combustibles, and enclose the chimney where it passes through<br />
occupied areas.<br />
CONNECTION FROM APPLIANCE TO CHIMNEY SYSTEM<br />
1. Single Wall Stovepipe: If single wall stovepipe is desired, Simpson Dura-<br />
Vent’s “Dura-Black” single-wall stovepipe is recommended. The connection to<br />
the Ceiling Support Box, or Finishing Collar is made with a Dura-Black Slip<br />
Connector or a Snap-Lock Adapter. The beaded end of the Slip Connector or<br />
Fig 31<br />
ANCHOR<br />
PLATE<br />
CHIMNEY<br />
SECTION<br />
SHEET<br />
METAL<br />
SCREWS (4<br />
REQUIRED)<br />
Fig 30<br />
MASONRY<br />
ANCHOR BOLTS<br />
(4) REQUIRED<br />
(NOT<br />
FURNISHED)<br />
EXISTING<br />
MASONRY<br />
CHIMNEY WITH<br />
LEVELED SURFACE<br />
HIGH<br />
TEMP<br />
SEALANT<br />
ANCHOR<br />
PLATE<br />
MAINTAIN 1-INCH MIN.<br />
CLEARANCE FROM ANCHOR<br />
PLATE TO COMBUSTIBLES<br />
23<br />
Snap Lock Adapter slips into the opening in the Ceiling Support or Finishing Collar.<br />
Align the tabs on the Slip Connector or Snap Lock Adapter with the notches in the<br />
face of the Support Box or Finishing Collar, push it in and rotate to lock it in place.<br />
Further instructions for assembling Dura-Black Stovepipe are contained in their<br />
shipping cartons. Remember, the minimum clearance to combustibles for single<br />
wall stovepipe is 18 inches.<br />
2. Close Clearance Connector Pipe (DVL): Simpson Dura-Vent manufactures<br />
a close clearance connector pipe, also referred to as “DVL”. DVL may be<br />
positioned as close as 6 inches to a combustible wall, and as close as 8 inches to<br />
a combustible ceiling, provided the appliance installation instructions permit this<br />
distance. In order to join this type of connector to the Support Box or Finishing<br />
Collar, a DVL Adapter is required. The DVL Adapter slips into the opening in the<br />
Support Box or Finishing Collar. Align the tabs on the DVL Adapter with the slots<br />
cut into the face of the Support Box or Finishing Collar, and push it in, and rotate<br />
to lock it in place. Detailed instructions for assembling the remainder of the close<br />
clearance system are included in the DVL shipping cartons.<br />
3. Connection to Oil-Burning Appliance: DVL is especially recommended for<br />
oil appliances because of the corrosive nature of oil-burning exhaust. When<br />
connecting to an oil burning appliance, refer to National Fire Protection<br />
Association Standard #211. Table 6-5.1.1 in NFPA 211 states that you must<br />
allow for 18&#8243; clearance to combustibles if you are using single wall vent<br />
connector. If , however, your appliance is Type-L Vent listed and you are using<br />
a listed Type-L Vent connector, then you are permitted to use the clearances as<br />
specified by the vent listing.<br />
CHIMNEY MAINTENANCE<br />
1. Creosote and Soot: When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other<br />
organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to produce creosote.<br />
The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning<br />
fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this<br />
creosote makes an extremely hot fire.<br />
2. Access: Chimneys must be installed so that access is provided for inspection<br />
and cleaning.<br />
3. When to Clean: The chimney should be inspected at least once every month<br />
during the heating season to determine if creosote or soot has built up. Check spark<br />
arrestor screens at least every 2 to 4 weeks. If creosote or soot has accumulated,<br />
it should be cleaned or replaced to reduce the risk of chimney fire.<br />
24<br />
SIMPSON DURA-VENT, INC<br />
PO Box 1510<br />
Vacaville, CA<br />
95696-1510<br />
Vicksburg, MS<br />
Feb 2002<br />
L150<br />
(800)-835-4429<br />
(707)-446-4740 (FAX)<br />
4. How to Clean: Have your chimney cleaned by a professional chimney sweep<br />
if you have doubts about your ability to clean it. Use a plastic, wood, or steel brush.<br />
Do not use a brush that will scratch the stainless steel liner of your chimney. Scrub<br />
the spark arrestor with a wire brush. To remove the Chimney Cap for cleaning,<br />
either twist counter-clockwise to remove the entire cap, or unscrew the four (4)<br />
screws that attach the cap’s support legs to the cap base. The Tee Cleanout Cap<br />
can be removed by turning counter-clockwise. Be sure to replace Tee Cleanout<br />
Cap when you are finished cleaning the chimney.<br />
5. Coal: To reduce corrosion in chimneys where coal is burned, clean the chimney<br />
thoroughly within 48 hours of shutting down the stove for the season.<br />
6. Chemical Cleaners: Use chemical cleaners only as a last resort, and use only<br />
those which the manufacturer specifically warrants as being noncorrosive to the<br />
chimney liner. Simpson Dura-Vent will assume no liability for damage resulting from<br />
the use of chemical cleaners.<br />
7. In Case of Fire: If a flue fire occurs, close all appliance air inlets, and call your<br />
Fire Department. Do not use the chimney again, until it has been inspected for<br />
possible damage.<br />
8. Painting: As an option, you can coat all exterior metal parts, with the exception<br />
of the Chimney Cap, with high temperature, rust proof paint. Wash the metal with<br />
a vinegar and water solution before painting. Painting the chimney will help to<br />
increase chimney life.<br />
9. Creosote Formation: Simpson Dura-Vent assumes no liability for any<br />
structural damage or roof contamination as the result of creosote formation. It is<br />
the owner’s responsibility to comply with inspection and cleaning requirements as<br />
described in these instructions, and those of the appliance manufacturer.<br />
10. Warranty: Simpson Dura-Vent proudly offers a limited lifetime warranty on<br />
DuraTech Chimney components. The warranty includes all components except<br />
chimney caps, which are warranted for 5 years. For specific details, refer to the<br />
printed warranty included in the Chimney Product Catalog. Dura-Vent, DuraTech<br />
Chimney, DVL, Close Clearance Connector, and Dura-Black are the registered<br />
trademarks of Simpson Dura-Vent Co., Inc.<br />
Visit us on the Web at<br />
www.duravent.com</p>
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		<title>Power Naturally &#8211; Installing Your Own Solar Panel</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jan 2008 17:07:12 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[A D E TA I L E D G U I D E TO I N S TA L L I N G A
YOUR HOME IS PROBABLY YOUR BIGGEST
INVESTMENT, BUT DID YOU KNOW YOU CAN MAKE
AN INVESTMENT IN YOUR HOME THAT WILL PAY YOU
BACK WITH ENERGY SAVINGS? It’s photovoltaic power
— solar electric energy — and [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=8&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>A D E TA I L E D G U I D E TO I N S TA L L I N G A<br />
YOUR HOME IS PROBABLY YOUR BIGGEST<br />
INVESTMENT, BUT DID YOU KNOW YOU CAN MAKE<br />
AN INVESTMENT IN YOUR HOME THAT WILL PAY YOU<br />
BACK WITH ENERGY SAVINGS? It’s photovoltaic power<br />
— solar electric energy — and it harnesses the power of<br />
sunlight to supply your home with electricity. Simply put,<br />
photovoltaic (PV) systems produce electricity from sunlight<br />
through cells that are installed on your roof or elsewhere<br />
on your property. PV power doesn’t produce any noise or<br />
pollution, it’s reliable and dependable, and it’s renewable<br />
so it makes good sense for the environment. For example,<br />
a 2.5 kW system will provide about 2,900 kilowatt hours<br />
per year and can typically provide about 25 to 35% of an<br />
average home’s electricity needs. The more energy efficient<br />
your house is, the greater the impact of the PV system.<br />
Power NaturallySM SM<br />
Not only is photovoltaic power<br />
GENTLER ON THE ENVIRONMENT, it is now<br />
MORE AFFORDABLE than ever before.<br />
This is because New York State is offering cash incentives to bring<br />
down the cost of PV systems by 40 to 70%. These incentives from<br />
NYSERDA — New York State Energy Research and Development<br />
Authority — are available to all customers that pay the Systems<br />
Benefit Charge to their electric utility. Working with an eligible<br />
installer, you could receive between $4,000 and $5,000 per kilowatt<br />
for PV systems up to a maximum of 15 kilowatts. The chart below<br />
outlines the different incentive levels NYSERDA is now offering.<br />
End-Use<br />
Photovoltaic<br />
Systems<br />
$4.00 per Watt, direct current<br />
$4.50 per watt for New York<br />
ENERGY STAR® Labeled Homes<br />
$5.00 per watt, direct current<br />
Maximum of 70% of<br />
total installed costs<br />
All systems for customers not<br />
eligible for net metering. Systems<br />
must be greater than 500 Watts and<br />
not more than 15kW.<br />
Incentive<br />
Level<br />
All systems interconnected to<br />
the electric grid and eligible for<br />
net metering (served by residential<br />
utility rates). Systems must be<br />
greater than 500 watts and not<br />
more than 10kW.<br />
There are also tax credits of 25% of the purchase price of your system, not<br />
to exceed $3,750, and help from the New York Energy $martSM Loan Fund,<br />
which provides financing through special loan rates that are reduced by<br />
4% at participating banks. Check www.PowerNaturally.org for more tax<br />
and loan information.<br />
In order to help you get started, we’ve put together this comprehensive<br />
guide, which contains essential information on PV power, including how to<br />
choose an installer, select a PV system, and calculate your potential energy<br />
savings. It’s not a technical installation guide — your PV installer will<br />
handle those issues — but it will explain how PV works and help you decide<br />
if it’s right for you.<br />
outlining<br />
the steps<br />
step 1 PV basics<br />
If you’re interested in PV power, the first step is to learn the basics.<br />
step 2 Conducting your own site survey<br />
Now take a close look at your own home to find out if PV power<br />
might be an option for you.<br />
step 3 Choosing an installer<br />
Once you’ve covered the basics, learn how to find and select an installer.<br />
step 4 Understanding your system options<br />
There are several PV systems to choose from — this section will help you<br />
find the right one for your home.<br />
step 5 Determining energy output and savings<br />
Now you can get an idea of how much energy your PV system<br />
might generate and what kind of savings that could mean for you.<br />
step 6 Obtaining permits and approvals<br />
This will give you an overview of permits and other approvals that<br />
could be necessary when you’re installing a new PV system.<br />
step 7 Final details<br />
Check here for additional information resources available to you.<br />
A TYPICAL TIMELINE FOR GETTING A PV SYSTEM UP AND RUNNING<br />
INITIAL EDUCATION<br />
CONTACT CONTRACTORS<br />
RECEIVE PRICE QUOTES<br />
CONTRACTOR CHOSEN<br />
PERMITS RECEIVED<br />
EQUIPMENT DELIVERED<br />
SYSTEM INSTALLED AND TESTED<br />
SYSTEM INSPECTED BY AHJ<br />
(AUTHORITIES HAVING JURISDICTION)<br />
INTERCONNECTION INSPECTION BY UTILITY<br />
FULLY OPERATIONAL<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 WEEKS: 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20<br />
step 1<br />
PV BASICS<br />
PV technology converts sunlight directly into electricity throughout the day,<br />
allowing you to produce your own electricity with no noise, air pollution, or<br />
moving parts. The basic building block is the PV cell, which is connected to other<br />
cells to create larger units called modules. Typically, modules are attached as<br />
panels onto your existing roof or are designed directly into the roof so they act as<br />
both a part of the roof or shingles and a solar module at the same time. The<br />
integrated roofing option may make sense if you are building a new home or<br />
considering replacing your current roof. Modules can also be set up as<br />
freestanding units on the ground.<br />
A PV system includes a collection of PV modules<br />
that is usually connected to the utility grid. Systems<br />
must be connected to the utility grid to be eligible<br />
for the cash incentive offered by NYSERDA. The PV<br />
modules produce direct current (DC) electricity, which<br />
the system then converts to alternating current (AC)<br />
electricity so it can be used to power your lights,<br />
appliances, and other home electrical needs. Being<br />
connected to the utility grid provides two additional<br />
benefits. First, when your system doesn’t produce<br />
enough electricity to power your home (when the sun<br />
isn’t shining, for example), you automatically receive<br />
the additional power you need from the utility. Second,<br />
if you produce more electricity than you need — which<br />
can happen on most sunny days — electricity flows<br />
back through your meter to the utility. In fact, your<br />
meter will run in reverse when your PV system<br />
is producing more electricity than you need, and<br />
you can receive a credit from the utility for the energy<br />
you’re supplying but don’t use. (See Step 6 for more<br />
information).<br />
A good way to think of it is that purchasing a PV system is like paying for many years’<br />
worth of electricity at once, since the cost is in the up-front purchase. Once your system<br />
is installed there should be minimal maintenance. With the NYSERDA incentive program,<br />
the cost of purchasing and installing a system is reduced by about half, but you’ll want<br />
to examine your personal energy use and savings closely before choosing a PV system.<br />
We’ll look at these issues in more detail later in this guide.<br />
THE COST OF A<br />
PV SYSTEM VARIES<br />
ACCORDING TO THE<br />
OVERALL SIZE<br />
AND NUMBER OF<br />
MODULES YOU USE.<br />
A SMALLER SYSTEM<br />
MAY COST LESS<br />
INITIALLY, BUT<br />
REMEMBER, IT WILL<br />
PRODUCE LESS<br />
ELECTRICITY TOO.<br />
If you’re building a new home, you can enjoy even greater savings when you participate<br />
in New York’s ENERGY STAR® Labeled Homes program. These homes use 30% less energy<br />
than conventionally built homes by incorporating the best construction practices and energysaving<br />
measures into your home. New York’s ENERGY STAR® homes are also eligible for a<br />
PV incentive level that is $500 per kW higher than a regular home built to code.<br />
For more information, go to www.getenergysmart.org.<br />
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:<br />
Array<br />
To Lighting,<br />
Appliances, etc<br />
AC<br />
Power<br />
Utility Grid<br />
DC<br />
Power<br />
Inverter<br />
(DC TO AC)<br />
Excess<br />
electricity<br />
produced by<br />
the PV system<br />
goes into the<br />
utility grid<br />
where others<br />
can use it.<br />
Electricity<br />
Meter<br />
Typical Grid-Connected PV System<br />
(Without Battery Backup System)<br />
Electrical Panel<br />
Photovoltaic (PV)<br />
Panels convert<br />
sunlight to<br />
DC electric power<br />
DC=Direct Current AC=Alternating Current<br />
step 2<br />
CONDUCTING YOUR OWN SITE SURVEY<br />
The amount of electricity generated by a PV system depends on<br />
a number of different factors, and the first step is to look at your<br />
own home. The reason for this is quite simple: the amount of<br />
electricity you produce is determined by how much sun<br />
reaches your system. You’ll want to look at a few basic areas<br />
to make sure your house is well suited for a PV system and that<br />
you maximize the energy your system produces by placing it in<br />
the most advantageous location.<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
The first question to ask yourself is whether your property has good<br />
access to the sun. In New York, the sun is in the southern half of the<br />
sky and is higher in summer and lower in winter. This means the best<br />
location for a PV system is typically a south-facing roof, but east and<br />
west may be fine as well.<br />
You’ll also want to look for objects such as trees, vent pipes on your<br />
roofs, chimneys, or buildings that could block or obstruct the sun<br />
from reaching your system. You’ll want to determine how large the<br />
obstruction is and how long it casts a shadow onto your roof or other<br />
proposed PV system site. Your PV installer will have special tools to<br />
help measure shading.<br />
If you think there are potential trouble areas, then it’s a good idea to<br />
use the Clean Power Estimator available at www.PowerNaturally.org<br />
to conduct a more thorough examination. Your PV installer can also<br />
assist with this analysis.<br />
If all obstructions to the east and west of your PV array<br />
are more than two times the distance from the system<br />
as they are high, and obstructions south of the PV<br />
system are more than three times the distance from<br />
the system as they are high, then your PV system<br />
should have no more than 10% loss due to shading.<br />
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:<br />
step 3<br />
CHOOSING AN INSTALLER<br />
Your PV installer not only sells and sets up your system, he or she also ensures that<br />
you get the system that is right for your home and your energy needs. By working<br />
closely with your installer, you can identify any potential trouble spots and come up<br />
with solutions so you get the most out of your PV system. Ultimately, it means your<br />
system will run more efficiently and produce the optimal amount of energy.<br />
Based on these conversations, you should solicit price quotes from at least three installers.<br />
The quotes should include a clear outline of how much your system can produce at its<br />
capacity rating, as well as estimated annual energy generation. Energy generation will<br />
fluctuate from year to year due to changes in the amount of sunlight, so you should<br />
remember that your actual system output may be higher or lower than the estimate.<br />
Of course, the quote should include details on the “fully loaded” cost of getting the PV system<br />
up and running, including hardware and installation costs, connection to the electric grid,<br />
permitting, applicable incentives, and warranties. Lastly, remember that you’ll be working<br />
with your PV installer for several months, so choose one you think you can work with closely.<br />
* Neither NYSERDA nor the State of New York: (1) endorse any Eligible Installer; or (2) guaranty, warranty, or in any way represent or<br />
assume liability for any work proposed or carried out by an Eligible Installer. Additionally, NYSERDA is not responsible for assuring that the<br />
design, engineering and construction of the project or installation of any photovoltaic (PV) system is proper or complies with any particular<br />
laws, regulations, codes, licensing, certification and permit requirements, or industry standards. NYSERDA does not make any<br />
representations of any kind regarding the results to be achieved by the PV systems or the adequacy or safety of such measures.<br />
To help you get started, take a look at the list of eligible<br />
installers at www.PowerNaturally.org. These PV installers<br />
are part of the NYSERDA incentive program, so they’ll be<br />
offering you cash incentives for PV system sales and<br />
installation. Each eligible installer who has applied for and<br />
been accepted as part of the program provides evidence of<br />
his or her skills, experience, and customer track record.*<br />
And as NYSERDA incentive participants, every eligible<br />
installer is offering a minimum five-year warranty that<br />
covers full costs, including labor, and repair or replacement<br />
of components or systems.<br />
Once you’ve reviewed the list, you’ll want to narrow it<br />
down by calling several different installers and asking<br />
them about their experience and working practices. One<br />
of the first considerations may be their location, since it may<br />
be easier and less expensive if they are located close to you.<br />
ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PV DECISIONS YOU’LL MAKE IS<br />
CHOOSING AN INSTALLER.<br />
OTHER QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER:<br />
Have they installed gridconnected<br />
systems before?<br />
How many years have they<br />
been in business?<br />
What is their process and<br />
timing for installing a system<br />
from initial site visit through<br />
completion?<br />
WHAT IS A CERTIFIED INSTALLER?<br />
The North American Board of Certified Energy<br />
Practitioners(NABCEP) has developed a national<br />
voluntary certification program for PV installers.<br />
Ask your installer if they are certified by NABCEP<br />
or pursuing NABCEP certification. www.nabcep.org<br />
UNDERSTANDING YOUR SYSTEM OPTIONS<br />
There are several different options when it comes to choosing a system. Most PV<br />
systems produce about 10 watts of power for each square foot of PV module. This means that<br />
you can install a small starter system on as little as 50 square feet of roof space, or as large<br />
as 1,000 square feet for a more powerful system. A typical two kilowatt system will need 200<br />
to 400 square feet of unobstructed area, but always make sure you’re able to access your<br />
system easily. This access space can add up to 20% to the total space you need for your<br />
system.<br />
A PV array can be built onto any type of roof, but the installation cost can vary<br />
based on the type of roofing material. For example, composition-shingle roofs are quite<br />
easy to work with, while slate roofs are much more difficult. Your PV installer should be<br />
able to work with all roof types and should discuss any problem areas with you. One<br />
area that you’ll want to look at quite closely is the age and condition of your roof. If your<br />
roof is old and will need to be replaced soon, you may want to consider replacing the roof<br />
and installing the PV system at the same time. This will eliminate having to take down<br />
the PV system and reinstall it in the future.<br />
No matter how large — or<br />
how small — your system is,<br />
you’ll need to decide where<br />
to locate it. The most common<br />
choice is to position the modules<br />
on your roof. The system, or<br />
array, can be mounted above<br />
and parallel to the roof with a<br />
space between the roof and the<br />
array to allow for cooling. The<br />
modules are typically positioned<br />
parallel to the roof so that they<br />
blend in as much as possible.<br />
If, however, your roof is flat,<br />
a PV array may be installed<br />
at an angle to optimize the<br />
amount of sunlight it receives.<br />
step 4<br />
A roof-integrated PV system with solar hot water collectors on the left.<br />
NO MATTER WHAT THE SYSTEM,<br />
YOU CAN CHOOSE ONE WITH<br />
BATTERY BACKUP OR ONE<br />
WITHOUT. A battery backup system<br />
stores energy so your home can be<br />
powered when the sun isn’t shining<br />
(really cloudy day), at night, or during<br />
a utility outage. The amount of<br />
energy your battery system can<br />
provide will depend on the storage<br />
capacity of your system. Systems<br />
with battery backup are more<br />
expensive, however the incremental<br />
investment is worth considering if<br />
you want to have power for critical<br />
loads during outages and the added<br />
reliability is important to you.<br />
If your roof isn’t made of composition shingles, then it will most likely<br />
require a flashed penetration to ensure that it’s properly sealed against<br />
rainwater. Make sure that your PV installer offers a written guarantee that<br />
the roof will not leak as a result of the PV system for at least five years.<br />
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:<br />
If you are considering a new roof or are<br />
building a new home, you should investigate<br />
a roof-integrated system – Building-Integrated<br />
PV Array, or BIPV. This option incorporates the<br />
PV modules into the actual roofing material, so<br />
the roof acts as the solar collector. BIPV’s are<br />
available as roofing shingles or metal roofing<br />
products and are great because they’re designed<br />
to look like traditional roofing materials. You<br />
do need to take extra care to make sure they’re<br />
installed properly, so be sure to discuss<br />
this with your installer.<br />
Lastly, you can install the array for your PV<br />
system as a ground-mounted structure, or you<br />
can even mount the array off the ground as a<br />
shade or patio cover.<br />
PV SYSTEM<br />
SIZE OR kW<br />
2.0 kW<br />
4.0 kW<br />
ESTIMATED<br />
ANNUAL ENERGY<br />
2300 kWh<br />
4600 kWh<br />
$0.08/kWh<br />
$184.00<br />
$368.00<br />
$0.10/kWh<br />
$230.00<br />
$460.00<br />
$0.12/kWh<br />
$276.00<br />
$552.00<br />
$0.14/kWh<br />
$322.00<br />
$644.00<br />
UTILITY ELECTRIC ENERGY RATE<br />
step 5<br />
DETERMINING ENERGY OUTPUT AND SAVINGS<br />
One of the most important questions you’ll have when you’re considering<br />
PV power is how much your system will cost and how much it will save<br />
you. A good place to start is to understand how much electricity you currently<br />
use. You can do this by looking at your electricity bills for the past year or by<br />
contacting your utility. This will give you a baseline so you know how much<br />
electric energy you’re using now and how much you’ll be able to offset by<br />
installing a PV system.<br />
Your energy savings with a PV system can be estimated by multiplying the energy<br />
in kilowatt-hours (kWh) that your system might produce each year by the electric<br />
energy rate charged by your utility. The chart below shows the estimated annual<br />
energy savings from a small (2 kW) and a large (4 kW) system to illustrate a range<br />
of savings based on four different electric rates.<br />
To get a better idea of<br />
your own savings, use the<br />
Clean Power Estimator at<br />
With the Clean Power Estimator<br />
you’ll be able to run several in-depth<br />
analyses with your own details so<br />
you can see if solar electric power<br />
makes financial sense for you. The<br />
Clean Power Estimator also includes<br />
information on cash incentives<br />
currently offered by NYSERDA.<br />
www.PowerNaturally.org<br />
kWh per kW<br />
CITY (range)<br />
Albany 1064-1315<br />
Plattsburgh 1063-1313<br />
Watertown 1035-12 79<br />
Buffalo 994-1227<br />
Rochester 1007-1244<br />
Syracuse 1035-1279<br />
Binghamton 1017-1256<br />
Poughkeepsie 1116-1379<br />
If you’re installing a roof-mounted system, the tilt and orientation of your roof<br />
will affect your system’s output. For example, in New York State, a 30-degree<br />
roof tilt facing south produces the greatest output, while an east-facing roof<br />
with the same tilt will generate 19% less electricity.<br />
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:<br />
The larger the system, the more<br />
electricity you’ll be able to generate,<br />
but at a higher up-front cost. You<br />
should consider four factors when<br />
choosing a system: your energy<br />
needs, the amount of the energy<br />
you can generate, whether you<br />
want a battery backup system, and<br />
the system costs. What you should<br />
remember is that no matter what<br />
system you choose, the actual output<br />
will vary due to environmental and<br />
system fluctuations. The adjacent<br />
chart is designed to give you a<br />
conservative estimate of the amount<br />
of power generated by a one-kilowatt<br />
(1kW) system. Ask your PV provider<br />
how much electricity your system<br />
will produce each year and how that<br />
compares with the amount of<br />
electricity you typically use each year.<br />
THE QUESTION WILL THEN BE HOW LARGE A SYSTEM YOU WANT TO INSTALL.<br />
step 6<br />
OBTAINING PERMITS AND APPROVALS<br />
If you have a PV system installed, you’ll need to make sure you have the<br />
proper permits and approvals before you begin work. Your installer should be<br />
able to handle most of these details, but you should be familiar with them as well<br />
to make sure you have everything you need.<br />
CODES, COVENANTS, AND RESTRICTIONS<br />
Often called CC&amp;Rs, these are requirements imposed by neighborhoods<br />
or local jurisdictions that often govern the aesthetics of a project.<br />
If CC&amp;Rs are in place in your area, you may need to submit plans<br />
and obtain approval before you can begin work. Check with your<br />
neighborhood association or town council to find out if there are<br />
any applicable CC&amp;Rs.<br />
ELECTRICAL AND STRUCTURAL PERMITS<br />
The most common permit you’ll need for your PV system is an electrical<br />
permit. Photovoltaic systems are included in the National Electrical Code<br />
in Article 690. Your installer should be familiar with this and ensure you<br />
have the proper permit before work commences.<br />
Also, you should determine if you’ll need a structural permit as well.<br />
Normally, structural permits are issued if it is deemed that the project<br />
will have a significant impact on an existing structure or involve a new<br />
structure that could put people or property at risk if the structure<br />
collapsed.<br />
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:<br />
If your home is less than 30 years old, it should not<br />
need structural enhancements as long as the PV<br />
system weighs less than five pounds, per square foot.<br />
Most PV systems meet this weight restriction. However,<br />
if you have two layers of shingles on your roof, you<br />
must remove both layers and install new shingles<br />
before you install a system.<br />
• In order to be connected to the grid, you and your installer will need to<br />
complete a contract with the utility. This contract includes important system<br />
information and shows that you understand your responsibilities in running<br />
and maintaining your system. Normally, the contract will be finalized once<br />
the utility confirms that the equipment has been installed properly and that<br />
all requirements have been met.<br />
• One requirement of the interconnection agreement is that you have a<br />
minimum level of insurance in place. This should be covered by your<br />
current homeowner’s insurance policy, but make sure your current<br />
coverage is sufficient to meet the interconnection requirements.<br />
• You will also need to complete a net metering agreement<br />
with the utility for residential systems of 10kW or less.<br />
Interconnecting a photovoltaic system to the utility grid<br />
requires an interconnection agreement as well as a sale<br />
and purchase agreement, or a net metering agreement<br />
with your local utility. Your PV installer and utility<br />
company will be able to go through this with you in<br />
more detail.<br />
UTILITY INTERCONNECTION<br />
STANDARDS AND CONTRACTS<br />
In order to be connected to the utility grid,<br />
you must follow interconnection standards<br />
as set out in Institute of Electrical and<br />
Electronic Engineers (IEEE) 929-2000<br />
(www.ieee.org) and New York State<br />
Public Service Commission’s Standard<br />
Interconnection Requirements<br />
(www.dps.state.ny.us/distgn.html).<br />
It is vital that you inform your utility<br />
as early as possible that you will be<br />
installing a grid-connected PV system<br />
and adhere to their rules exactly. Your<br />
PV installer should be familiar with<br />
entering into an interconnection<br />
agreement with your utility.<br />
PERFORMANCE EVALUATION<br />
Once your system is installed, your PV installer will run a series of<br />
tests to make sure your system is up and running properly. Make sure<br />
you receive a copy of this evaluation, and keep it as part of your system<br />
documentation. Other vital documents to keep with this are your owner’s<br />
manual, copies of any plan drawings, and instructions for any future<br />
maintenance.<br />
UTILITY AND INSPECTION SIGN-OFFS<br />
After your system is installed, it must be inspected by the local<br />
permitting agency (typically this is a building and/or electrical inspector).<br />
Most likely, your system will be inspected by the utility as well. These<br />
inspections may identify problem areas that need to be corrected, so<br />
don’t be alarmed — this is fairly common and your PV installer can<br />
deal with most issues easily. Additionally, NYSERDA may inspect systems<br />
that have been installed through any of its incentive programs.<br />
SYSTEM MAINTENANCE AND MONITORING<br />
PV systems require very little maintenance, but you should discuss<br />
this with your installer and review any recommended maintenance<br />
procedures. One of the easiest ways to check your system’s performance<br />
is to monitor your own electricity meter. This will give you an idea of<br />
how much electricity you are using and if your PV system is performing<br />
properly. Through the NYSERDA program, your system will include an<br />
easy-to-read digital meter that can help you monitor real-power output<br />
and energy production.<br />
WARRANTIES<br />
All PV installers operating under the NYSERDA incentive program<br />
will provide you with a full five-year guarantee that covers full costs,<br />
including labor, and repair or replacement of components or systems.<br />
Some installers may offer additional warranties, and you should discuss<br />
this with them in detail to make sure you understand what they cover<br />
in case a problem arises.<br />
step 7<br />
FINAL DETAILS<br />
PURCHASING A PV SYSTEM<br />
CAN BE ONE OF THE MOST<br />
EXCITING MOVES YOU<br />
MAKE AS A HOMEOWNER.<br />
It offers you the chance to use<br />
your own home to produce power<br />
for appliances, lighting, and other<br />
electrical needs. If you have<br />
questions or need additional<br />
information, contact NYSERDA<br />
at 1-866-697-3732 or visit us at<br />
www.PowerNaturally.org. We’ve<br />
also listed some other resources<br />
too that will provide you with<br />
more information. Customers of<br />
the Long Island Power Authority<br />
should visit www.lipower.org for<br />
information about PV incentives.<br />
New York Power Authority<br />
customers should visit<br />
www.nypa.org.<br />
NYSERDA<br />
www.PowerNaturally.org<br />
NEW YORK STATE SOLAR ENERGY INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION<br />
www.nyseia.org<br />
AMERICAN SOLAR ENERGY SOCIETY (ASES)<br />
www.ases.org<br />
FLORIDA SOLAR ENERGY CENTER<br />
www.fsec.ucf.edu<br />
INTERSTATE RENEWABLE ENERGY COUNCIL<br />
www.irecusa.org<br />
MILLION SOLAR ROOFS<br />
www.millionsolarroofs.com<br />
NATIONAL RENEWABLE ENERGY LABORATORY<br />
www.nrel.gov<br />
NATIONAL CENTER FOR PHOTOVOLTAICS<br />
www.nrel.gov/ncpv/<br />
REPP-CREST<br />
www.crest.org<br />
SOLAR ELECTRIC POWER ASSOCIATION<br />
www.solarelectricpower.org<br />
SOLAR ENERGY INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION<br />
www.seia.org<br />
SOLAR RATING AND CERTIFICATION CORPORATION (SRCC)<br />
www.solar-rating.org<br />
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF ENERGY OFFICE OF ENERGY<br />
EFFICIENCY AND RENEWABLE ENERGY<br />
www.eren.doe.gov<br />
U.S. GREEN BUILDING COUNCIL<br />
www.usgbc.org<br />
INSTITUTE FOR SUSTAINABLE POWER<br />
www.ispq.org<br />
SOLAR ELECTRIC SYSTEM DESIGN TUTORIAL<br />
www.eren.doe.gov/erec/factsheets/pvbasics.html<br />
The New York State Energy Research<br />
and Development Authority (NYSERDA)<br />
is a public benefit corporation created<br />
in 1975 by the New York State<br />
legislature. NYSERDA administers the<br />
The New York Energy $martSM program,<br />
which is designed to support certain<br />
public benefit programs during the<br />
transition to a more competitive<br />
electricity market. Some 2,700<br />
projects in more than 30 programs<br />
are funded by a charge on the electricity<br />
transmitted and distributed by the<br />
State&#8217;s investor-owned utilities.<br />
The New York Energy $martSM<br />
program provides energy efficiency<br />
services, including those directed<br />
at the low-income sector,<br />
research and development, and<br />
environmental protection activities.<br />
For more information about<br />
NYSERDA programs, visit<br />
www.NYSERDA.org<br />
What is NYSERDA?<br />
For more information<br />
on solar power, visit:</p>
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		<title>How To Build &amp; Install a Rain Barrel</title>
		<link>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/how-to-build-install-a-rain-barrel/</link>
		<comments>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/how-to-build-install-a-rain-barrel/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2008 21:16:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Rain Barrel]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[How to Build and Install a Rain Barrel
STEP 2. Set Up Barrel and Modify Downspout
! Set up barrel
Since water will only flow from the garden hose when the hose is below the barrel, place the barrel on
high ground or up on cinder blocks or a sturdy wooden crate underneath your downspout.
! Modify your downspout
Cut your [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=7&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>How to Build and Install a Rain Barrel<br />
STEP 2. Set Up Barrel and Modify Downspout<br />
! Set up barrel<br />
Since water will only flow from the garden hose when the hose is below the barrel, place the barrel on<br />
high ground or up on cinder blocks or a sturdy wooden crate underneath your downspout.<br />
! Modify your downspout<br />
Cut your existing downspout using a saw so that the end can be placed over the top of your rain barrel.<br />
Use a 3” vinyl downspout elbow to connect the two downspout pieces (or use a downspout adapter and<br />
a piece of corrugated plastic pipe). Trim the end of the downspout if necessary.<br />
STEP 1. Cut Holes in Barrel<br />
! Cut lower drain hole<br />
Measure about 1 inch above the bottom of the barrel where the barrel side begins to rise toward the<br />
top. Using a ¾” bit (or hole saw), drill a hole through the barrel.<br />
! Cut upper drain hole<br />
Mark the upper drain hole according to where you want the overflow to be located in relationship to the<br />
lower drain. Use a 1-5/8” hole saw to cut out the overflow hole.<br />
! Cut top hole for atrium grate (filter)<br />
Using the atrium grate as a template for size, mark a circle at the center of the top of the drum<br />
(locating the rainwater inlet in the center of the barrel lets you pivot the barrel without moving the<br />
downspout). Drill a ½” hole inside of the marked circle. Use a router, jigsaw or coping saw to cut until<br />
the hole is large enough to accommodate the atrium grate, which filters out large debris. Don’t make<br />
the hole too big – you want the flange of the atrium grate to fit securely on the top of the barrel without<br />
falling in.<br />
! Cut notch to hold hose<br />
Using a ½” bit or hole saw, cut out a notch at the top of the barrel rim (aligned so that it is above the<br />
lower drain hole). The notch should be large enough so that the end of the hose with the adapter will<br />
firmly snap into place.<br />
STEP 3. Assemble Parts<br />
! Attach garden hose to lower drain hole<br />
Screw in the ½” PVC male adapter to the lower drain hole. The hard PVC threads cut matching<br />
grooves into the soft plastic of the barrel. Unscrew the ½” PVC male adapter from the hole. Wrap<br />
threads tightly with teflon tape (optional). Coat the threads of the coupler with waterproof sealant<br />
(optional). Screw the coated adapter back into the hole and let it sit and dry for 24 hours (optional).<br />
Attach 5’ foot garden hose to the PVC male adapter. Attach the ¾” x ½” PVC male adapter to the other<br />
end of the hose (this can be readily adapted to fit a standard garden hose).<br />
! Attach drain hose to upper drain hole<br />
Put the 1¼” male threaded coupling inside the barrel with the threads through the hole. From the<br />
outside, screw the 1¼” female barbed fitting onto the threaded coupling. Use silicone on the threads<br />
(optional). Attach 5’ section of drain hose to upper fitting.<br />
! Place atrium grate and screen in top hole<br />
Using PVC glue, secure a piece of fine mesh window screen inside or outside of the atrium grate to<br />
filter out debris and control mosquitoes (optional). Place the atrium grate into the hole (basket down).<br />
! Position the downspout<br />
Position the end of your downspout so it drains onto the atrium grate on the rain barrel.<br />
What Is a Rain Barrel?<br />
A rain barrel collects and stores rainwater<br />
from your rooftop to use later for things<br />
like lawn and garden watering. Water collected<br />
in a rain barrel would normally flow<br />
through your downspout, onto a paved<br />
surface, and eventually into a storm drain.<br />
Why Use Rain Barrels?<br />
!Rain barrels help lower water costs<br />
(a rain barrel can save approximately<br />
1,300 gallons of water during<br />
peak summer months).<br />
Instructions<br />
Steps 1-3 below explain how to build and install your rain barrel. The supplies listed above can all be<br />
found at most home improvement and hardware stores. The 55-gallon drums are available for $5 from<br />
the Pepsi Bottling Company in Baltimore, or you can purchase a ready-to-install barrel from the South<br />
River Federation. For more information contact the Rain Barrel Community Action Team at #410-<br />
721-0661 or actionteams@southriverfederation.org.<br />
This instructional flyer was<br />
created by the South River<br />
Federation and the Center for<br />
Watershed Protection<br />
August, 2002<br />
This project was funded<br />
through a grant from the<br />
Chesapeake Bay Trust<br />
Tools and supplies<br />
Cut hole for atrium grate<br />
(for filtering leaves)<br />
Position downspout to drain<br />
into rain barrel<br />
a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a<br />
Attach overflow hose<br />
Attach<br />
garden hose<br />
for watering<br />
Modified downspout<br />
water flows to rain barrel<br />
through screened atrium<br />
grate<br />
Overflow drain<br />
pipe, when<br />
barrel is full<br />
water flows<br />
onto lawn<br />
Garden hose<br />
for watering<br />
when not in<br />
use clip to top<br />
of barrel<br />
Optional spigot<br />
SUPPLIES<br />
! One 55-gallon drum<br />
! One 5’ section vinyl garden hose (3/4” OD x 5/8” ID)<br />
! One 4” diameter atrium grate (basket used in garden ponds and<br />
pool skimmers)<br />
! One 1/2” PVC male adapter<br />
! One 3/4” x 1/2” PVC male adapter<br />
! One 5’ section of drain hose, drain line, or sump pump line (1-1/4”)<br />
! One 1-1/4” female barbed fitting and one 1-1/4” male threaded coupling<br />
! One vinyl gutter elbow<br />
! Drill (or a hole saw)<br />
! Router, jig saw or coping saw<br />
! Measuring tape<br />
Optional<br />
! Waterproof sealant (silicone caulk, PVC glue)<br />
! Teflon tape<br />
! Fiberglass window screen material<br />
or mosquito netting<br />
! Cinder blocks or wooden crate<br />
Sources<br />
Pepsi Bottling Company<br />
Charlie Dickerson #410-366-3500<br />
South River Federation<br />
Rain Barrel Community Action Team<br />
#410-721-0661<br />
actionteams@southriverfederation.org<br />
Arlington Echo Outdoor Education Center<br />
www.arlingtonecho.net<br />
Maryland Green Building Program<br />
www.dnr.state.md.us/smartgrowth/greenbuilding/<br />
rainbarrel.html<br />
!<br />
Storing rainwater for garden and lawn use helps recharge groundwater<br />
naturally .<br />
! Rain barrels reduce water pollution by reducing stormwater runoff,<br />
which can contain pollutants like sediment, oil, grease, bacteria, and nutrients.<br />
! Rain barrels are inexpensive and easy to build and install.<br />
Native Plants for Rain Gardens<br />
= sun or part sun = part sun/part shade = shade<br />
Ferns<br />
rattlesnake fern<br />
hay-scented fern<br />
Grasses<br />
blue wood sedge<br />
Canada wild rye<br />
bottle brush grass<br />
Virginia wild rye<br />
Perennials<br />
butterflyweed<br />
New England aster<br />
joe-pye weed<br />
wild snakeroot<br />
cardinal flower<br />
wild bergamot<br />
blue-eyed grass<br />
hosta<br />
grass-leaf blazingstar<br />
Shrubs<br />
mountain laurel<br />
highbush blueberry<br />
spicebush<br />
inkberry<br />
sweet pepperbush<br />
Solomon’s seal<br />
black-eyed Susan<br />
wild pink<br />
purple coneflower<br />
yellowflag iris<br />
St. John’s wort<br />
early goldenrod<br />
daylily<br />
Step 1: Size and Locate your Rain Garden<br />
First, measure the footprint of your house and determine how much of your rooftop area drains to the<br />
downspout you’re using for your garden (for gutters with a downspout at each end, assume that half<br />
the water goes to each downspout). Be sure you measure the house footprint only; do not take the<br />
roof slope into account. The surface area of your rain garden should be between 20% and 30% of the<br />
roof area that will drain into the rain garden. Locate the garden at least 10 feet away from the house<br />
(to prevent soggy basements), and maintain a minimum 1% slope from the lawn down to the rain<br />
garden (you can also create a shallow ditch to ensure the water flows from roof to the garden, or use<br />
a downspout extension to direct the flow into the garden). Lay out the boundary of the garden with a<br />
rope.<br />
Rain garden sizing example:<br />
30’ x 30’ house area<br />
1/4 of this area drains to one downspout<br />
15’ x 15’ = 225 ft2<br />
20% of 225ft2 = 45ft2<br />
30% of 225ft2 = 67.5ft2<br />
The rain garden area should be between 45 and 67.5 square feet,<br />
depending on soil type (use 20% for sandier soils).<br />
Step 2: Dig the Rain Garden<br />
To enable the rain garden to hold several inches of water during a storm, you’ll have to dig a hole 3-<br />
4 inches deep across the entire surface of the garden. If the soil lacks organic material, you can<br />
improve it by digging the hole 5-6 inches deep, and adding 2-3 inches of humus or other organic<br />
material. Make sure the bottom is level. Next, test how the garden will hold water during a storm by<br />
letting water flow into the rain garden from a hose placed at the downspout. Based on this test,<br />
make any necessary adjustments (e.g., create a berm on the lower side of the garden using the<br />
diggings, or use a downspout extension or shallow ditch to direct the water into the garden).<br />
Step 3: Add Plants to the Rain Garden<br />
Choose drought-tolerant plants that won’t require much watering, but make sure they can withstand<br />
wet soils for up to 24 hours. A list of native plants that meet these criteria is provided below. Also<br />
take into account how much sun your garden receives. It’s often helpful to draw out a planting plan<br />
before you start, and mark planting areas within the garden with string. After planting, weeding may<br />
be required until the plants become more established. You may also need to periodically prune some<br />
of the plants to let others grow. In the winter, leave dead or dormant plants standing and cut back in<br />
the spring. Your garden may need a bit more maintenance than a lawn in the beginning, but in the<br />
long run it will be easier to care for and provide many added benefits!<br />
What Is a Rain Garden?<br />
A rain garden uses native landscaping to soak up rain water from your downspout. The middle<br />
part of the garden holds several inches of water, allowing it to slowly infiltrate into the ground<br />
instead of being delivered to the stormdrain all at once.<br />
This instructional flyer was created by the South River Federation and the Center for Watershed Protection, August 2002<br />
This project was funded through a grant from the Chesapeake Bay Trust<br />
1/4 of the roof drains to one<br />
downspout = 15’ x 15’<br />
dig down 3-4 inches<br />
lay out the site<br />
add plants<br />
a beautiful two-year old rain garden!<br />
Sources<br />
Weems Creek Conservancy www.weemscreek.org<br />
Rain Gardens: A household way to improve water quality in<br />
your community University of Wisconsin -Extension and<br />
Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources http://cleanwater.<br />
uwex.edu/pubs/raingarden/gardens.pdf<br />
15 feet 15 feet<br />
How to Install a Rain Garden<br />
Instructions<br />
Follow the three steps below to install a rain garden in your yard. Materials you’ll need include<br />
plants for the garden (see plant list below); a hose, rope or string; a level; a shovel or spade;<br />
humus or other soil amendments (optional); a measuring tape; and a downspout extension (also<br />
optional).<br />
Source: Roger Bannerman<br />
Source: Roger Bannerman<br />
Source: Roger Bannerman<br />
Source: Corinne Reed-Miller<br />
Source: Corinne Reed-Miller<br />
Source: Corinne Reed-Miller<br />
Why Install a Rain Garden?<br />
A rain garden allows 30% more water to infiltrate into the ground than a conventional lawn. This helps replenish the groundwater supply (important during<br />
a drought!), and reduces the amount of pollution that reaches our streams through stormwater runoff. Since studies show that the first inch of rainfall is<br />
responsible for the bulk of the pollutants in stormwater, a rain garden is designed to temporarily<br />
hold water from a one-inch rainstorm, and slowly filter out many common pollutants like sediment,<br />
oil, grease and nutrients. Rain gardens require less watering and fertilizer than conventional lawns,<br />
and provide habitat for birds and butterflies.<br />
The South River Federation (SRF) is a non-profit organization dedicated to restoring, protecting<br />
and preserving the South River watershed. For more information on how you can help the protect<br />
the South River or for information about membership, rain barrels or rain gardens, visit SRF’s<br />
website at www.geocities.com/RainForest/Wetlands/2002/ or call Drew Koslow, SRF president,<br />
at #410-990-9173 or send email to membership@southriverfederation.org<br />
What Is the South River Federation?</p>
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		<title>CONCRETE AND CLAY ROOF TILE INSTALLATION MANUAL</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2008 21:08:44 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Concrete & Clay Roof Tiles]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[CONCRETE AND CLAY
ROOF TILE INSTALLATION MANUAL
Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning
Contractors Association, Inc.
Tile Roofing Institute
© Copyright 2001 by FL Roofing, Sheet Metal and A/C Contractors Assoc. &#38; Tile Roofing Institute
i
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
PREFACE
In January, 1987, the Roof Tile Committee of the FRSA/NTRMA was commissioned to develop and write
consensus guidelines for the [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=6&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>CONCRETE AND CLAY<br />
ROOF TILE INSTALLATION MANUAL<br />
Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning<br />
Contractors Association, Inc.<br />
Tile Roofing Institute<br />
© Copyright 2001 by FL Roofing, Sheet Metal and A/C Contractors Assoc. &amp; Tile Roofing Institute<br />
i<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
PREFACE<br />
In January, 1987, the Roof Tile Committee of the FRSA/NTRMA was commissioned to develop and write<br />
consensus guidelines for the installation of concrete and clay roof tiles. Recently, the National Tile<br />
Roofing Manufacturers Association (NTRMA) changed its name to Tile Roofing Institute. The consensus<br />
document process included meetings over a period of eighteen (18) years, made up of roofing contractors,<br />
manufacturers, suppliers, academia, roofing consultants, and engineers.<br />
These guidelines were approved by a consensus vote of participating members. These guidelines are<br />
updated or reaffirmed by the same process at intervals not exceeding three (3) years.<br />
These guidelines were developed to summarize for the designer, applicator or developer good roofing<br />
practice and industry guidelines for the installation of the mechanically-set and mortar/ adhesive-set tiles,<br />
which have been developed over a period of time from actual trade practice and the requirements of various<br />
building code agencies. These guidelines may not be applicable in all geographical areas. It is the<br />
responsibility of those individuals who are referring to these guidelines to independently research and<br />
determine which is best for their particular project. Accordingly, the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air<br />
Conditioning Contractors Association and the Tile Roofing Institute and their members expressly disclaim<br />
any express or implied warranties or any liability for any damages or loss that might be incurred as a result<br />
of the use of these guidelines.<br />
ii<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
STANDARDS<br />
This document incorporates by reference the following specifications and standards:<br />
APA PS 1 Construction and Industrial Plywood<br />
ASTM A 90 Standard Test Method for Weight (Mass) of Coating on Iron and Steel Articles with<br />
Zinc or Zinc-Alloy Coatings<br />
ASTM A 653 Standard Specification for General Requirements for Steel Sheet, Zinc-Coated<br />
(Galvanized) by the Hot-Dip Process<br />
ASTM A 641 Standard Specification for Zinc-Coated (Galvanized) Carbon Steel Wire<br />
ASTM C 91 Standard Specification for Masonry Cement<br />
ASTM C 144 Standard Specification for Aggregate for Masonry Mortar<br />
ASTM C 150 Standard Specification for Portland Cement<br />
ASTM C 270 Standard Specification for Mortar for Unit Masonry<br />
ASTM C 332 Standard Specification for Lightweight Aggregates for Insulating Concrete<br />
ASTM C 1167 Standard Specification for Clay Roof Tiles<br />
ASTM C 1492 Standard Specification for Concrete Roof Tiles<br />
ASTM D 226 Standard Specification for Asphalt-Saturated Organic Felt Used in Roofing and<br />
Waterproofing(Organic Felt) with Mineral Granules<br />
ASTM D 312 Standard Specification for Asphalt Used in Roofing<br />
ASTM D 1056 Standard Specification for Flexible Cellular Materials &#8211; Sponge or Expanded Rubber<br />
ASTM D 1621 Standard Test Method for Compressive Properties of Rigid Cellular Plastics<br />
ASTM D 1622 Standard Test Method for Apparent Density of Rigid Cellular Plastics<br />
ASTM D 1623 Standard Test Method for Tensile and Tensile Adhesion Properties of Rigid Cellular<br />
Plastics<br />
ASTM D 2126 Standard Test Method for Response of Rigid Cellular Plastics to Thermal and<br />
Humid Aging<br />
ASTM D 2842 Standard Test Method for Water Absorption of Rigid Cellular Plastics<br />
ASTM D 2626 Standard Specification for Asphalt-Saturated and Coated Organic Felt Base Sheet<br />
Used in Roofing<br />
ASTM D 2856 Standard Test Method for Open Cell Content of Rigid Cellular Plastics by the Air<br />
Pycnometer<br />
ASTM D 3019 Standard Specification for Lap Cement Used with Asphalt Roll Roofing<br />
ASTM D 3498 Standard Specification for Adhesives for Field-Gluing Plywood to Lumber Framing<br />
for Floor Systems<br />
ASTM D 4586 Standard Specification for Asphalt Roof Cement, Asbestos-Free<br />
ASTM D 6162 Standard Specification for SBS Polyester and Glass Fiber Reinforcement Mat<br />
ASTM D 6163 Standard Specification for SBS with Glass Fiber Reinforcement Mat<br />
ASTM D 6164 Standard Specification for Polyester Reinforcement Mat<br />
ASTM D 6380 Standard Specification for Asphalt Roll Roofing<br />
ASTM E 84 Standard for Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials<br />
ASTM E 96 Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials<br />
ASTM E 108 Standard for Fire Tests of Roof Coverings<br />
AWPI C 2 Standard for Lumber, Timber, Bridge Ties and Mine Ties &#8211; Preservative Treatment<br />
by Pressure Processes<br />
F.S. QQ-L- Federal Specification for Sheet Lead<br />
201-F,<br />
Grade B or C<br />
iii<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
PARTICIPATING TILE ROOFING INSTITUTE MEMBERS:<br />
ALTUSA<br />
COMA CAST CORP.<br />
ENTEGRA SALES, INC.<br />
DOW CHEMICAL<br />
LUDOWICI ROOF TILE, INC.<br />
MCA CLAY ROOF TILE<br />
MONIERLIFETILE<br />
HANSON ROOF TILE<br />
POLYFOAM PRODUCTS, INC.<br />
QUIK DRIVE USA, INC.<br />
RINKER CEMENT CO.<br />
U.S. TILE CO.<br />
VANDE HEY &#8211; RALEIGH MFG., INC.<br />
WESTILE ROOFING PRODUCTS<br />
iv<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS<br />
The FRSA/TRI acknowledges the devoted efforts of the joint Task Force of the FRSA/TRI. This group is<br />
comprised of roofing contractors, manufacturers, suppliers, academia, roofing consultants, and engineers.<br />
This Manual was prepared through the consensus guidelines process.<br />
The following individuals served on the Task Force:<br />
v<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Dale Adams<br />
W.L. Albritton<br />
Craig Anderson<br />
Daniel Bernal<br />
Richard Beymer<br />
Bill Bieler<br />
Earl Blank<br />
Brad Bowen, III<br />
Ted Bowers<br />
Charles Breslauer<br />
Jack Brown<br />
Joe Bruckner<br />
Bill Bryans<br />
Joseph Byrne<br />
John Campbell<br />
Randall Carney<br />
Danny Carson<br />
Bryan Cassell<br />
Jim Cheshire<br />
Billy Cone<br />
Jack Craig<br />
Paul Croushore<br />
Eddie Currier<br />
Forest Dean<br />
Clyde Denning<br />
George Desiderio<br />
S. Anthony DeVito<br />
Les Dickson<br />
Rick Divins<br />
Jody Dove<br />
Drew Duncan<br />
Mike Duskin<br />
Ed Engelmeier<br />
Robert Ethridge<br />
David Faulkner<br />
Bob Ferrante<br />
Barbara Fleck<br />
Mike Fulton<br />
Herbert Frank<br />
Thomas C. Gans<br />
Charles Goldsmith<br />
Les Gory<br />
Michael Gustafson<br />
Greg Hageman<br />
Mike Harak<br />
Paul Hayes<br />
Bob Hightower<br />
Robbie Hightower<br />
Bob Hilson<br />
Jim Horton<br />
John Hosford, III<br />
Lew Howell<br />
Mark Howland<br />
Terry Johnson<br />
Richard Kaspar<br />
Les Knopf<br />
Rob Kornahrens<br />
Barbara Lamb<br />
Robert Leslie<br />
Deborah Liftig<br />
Scott Lelling<br />
Sean Lilly<br />
Brent Lloyd<br />
Burt Logan<br />
Stuart Lyons<br />
Bruce Manson<br />
Sam Mattina<br />
John Mayo<br />
Bob McDonald<br />
Ted McGee<br />
Fernando Mendez<br />
Manny Mendez<br />
Walt Millet<br />
Brad Molter<br />
Reese Moody<br />
Hans Mordrin<br />
Greg Motter<br />
Dave Noel<br />
David Packard<br />
Richard Pepin<br />
George Peterson<br />
Gregory Pierce<br />
Bob Pike<br />
Arturo Posada<br />
Bob Purdy<br />
Gary Register<br />
Robert Ruiz<br />
Chris Schulte<br />
Walter Scott<br />
David Shewski<br />
Robert Shluzas<br />
Alvin J. Singleton<br />
David Snyder<br />
Robert Shluzas<br />
Mike Silvers<br />
Loyal Slechta<br />
Phil Spake<br />
Tom Stanley<br />
Cris Starr<br />
Dave Stephens<br />
Marvin Stokoe<br />
Cliff Stutts<br />
Bob Sutphin<br />
Morris Swope<br />
Doug Tait<br />
Gary Thomas<br />
Milton E. Thompson<br />
Bill Tucker<br />
Gary Vogt<br />
Gary Waldrep<br />
Tim Wallace<br />
Kevin Watson<br />
Keith Wesche<br />
Bob Whatley<br />
Andy Wieland<br />
David Williams<br />
Gerry Williams<br />
Anthony Wilson<br />
Carol Youmans<br />
Joe Zambruski<br />
Mark Zirzow<br />
TABLE OF CONTENTS<br />
Page<br />
SYSTEM ONE<br />
Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed metal flashings with edge returns. 1<br />
Tiles are applied over the underlayment with mechanical fasteners to the deck with or without horizontal<br />
battens.<br />
QUICK REFERENCE CHART &#8211; TABLE 1 2<br />
PART I &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Elsewhere 3<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance 3<br />
1.03 Submittals 3<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 3<br />
1.05 Job Conditions 3<br />
1.06 Warranty 3<br />
PART II &#8211; PRODUCTS<br />
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 4<br />
2.01 Roof Tile 4<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 4<br />
2.03 Membranes 4<br />
2.04 Fasteners 4<br />
2.05 Metal Flashings 5<br />
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 5<br />
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants 5<br />
2.08 Mortar 5<br />
2.09 Eave Closure 5<br />
2.10 Coatings 5<br />
2.11 Sheathing 5<br />
PART III &#8211; EXECUTION<br />
3.01 Inspection 6<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application 6<br />
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 8<br />
3.04 Gable Treatment 8<br />
3.05 Valleys (underlayment) 9<br />
3.06 Valley Termination onto Roof Plane 11<br />
3.07 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments 11<br />
3.08 Head and Apron Flashing 12<br />
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 14<br />
3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 15<br />
3.11 Batten Installation 16<br />
3.12 Tile Installation 17<br />
3.13 Flat / Low, Medium and High Profile Tile 19<br />
3.14 Valleys (Tiles) 20<br />
3.15 Hip Starter 21<br />
3.16 Hip and Ridge Installation 21<br />
vi<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Page<br />
3.17 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 21<br />
3.18 Rake/Gable Tile 21<br />
3.19 Wall Abutments (Tile) 21<br />
3.20 Coatings 21<br />
3.21 Tile Replacement 21<br />
3.22 Clean-up 21<br />
3.23 Miscellaneous Recommendations 21<br />
SYSTEM TWO<br />
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings. Tiles are applied 22<br />
with mechanical fasteners direct to waterproofed deck.<br />
QUICK REFERENCE CHART &#8211; TABLE 1 23<br />
PART 1 &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Elsewhere 24<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance 24<br />
1.03 Submittals 24<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 24<br />
1.05 Job Conditions 24<br />
1.06 Warranty 24<br />
PART II &#8211; PRODUCTS<br />
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 25<br />
2.01 Roof Tile 25<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 25<br />
2.03 Membranes 25<br />
2.04 Fasteners 25<br />
2.05 Metal Flashing 25<br />
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 26<br />
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants 26<br />
2.08 Mortar 26<br />
2.09 Eave Closure 26<br />
2.10 Coating 26<br />
2.11 Sheathing 26<br />
PART III &#8211; EXECUTION<br />
3.01 Inspection 27<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application 27<br />
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 29<br />
3.04 Valleys 30<br />
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments 33<br />
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 36<br />
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 36<br />
3.08 Tile Installation 38<br />
3.09 Flat, Low and High Profile Tile 40<br />
3.10 Valleys (Tiles) 41<br />
vii<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Page<br />
3.11 Hip Starter 42<br />
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation 42<br />
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 42<br />
3.14 Rake/Gable 43<br />
3.15 Wall Abutments 43<br />
3.16 Plumbing Stacks 43<br />
3.17 Coatings 43<br />
3.18 Tile Replacement 43<br />
3.19 Clean-up 43<br />
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations 43<br />
SYSTEM THREE<br />
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings. 44<br />
Tiles are applied with mortar direct to waterproofed deck.<br />
QUICK REFERENCE CHART &#8211; TABLE 1 45<br />
PART I &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Elsewhere 46<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance 46<br />
1.03 Submittals 46<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 46<br />
1.05 Job Conditions 46<br />
1.06 Warranty 46<br />
PART II &#8211; PRODUCT<br />
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 47<br />
2.01 Roof Tile 47<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 47<br />
2.03 Membranes 47<br />
2.04 Fasteners 47<br />
2.05 Metal Flashings 47<br />
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 48<br />
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants 48<br />
2.08 Mortar 48<br />
2.09 Eave Closure 48<br />
2.10 Coatings 48<br />
2.11 Sheathing 48<br />
PART III &#8211; EXECUTION<br />
3.01 Inspection 48<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application 48<br />
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 50<br />
3.04 Valleys 50<br />
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments 52<br />
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 52<br />
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 56<br />
3.08 Tile Installation 58<br />
viii<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Page<br />
3.09 Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile 60<br />
3.10 Valleys 64<br />
3.11 Hip Starter 64<br />
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation 64<br />
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 65<br />
3.14 Rake/Gable 65<br />
3.15 Wall Abutments 66<br />
3.16 Plumbing Stacks 66<br />
3.17 Coatings 66<br />
3.18 Tile Replacement 66<br />
3.19 Clean-up 66<br />
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations 66<br />
SYSTEM FOUR<br />
Option “A” — Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed metal 67<br />
flashings with edge returns. Tiles are applied over the underlayment with adhesive<br />
to the deck with or without horizontal battens.<br />
Option “B” — Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings.<br />
Tiles are applied with adhesive direct to waterproofed deck.<br />
DIVISION 7 68<br />
PART 1 &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere 68<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance 68<br />
1.03 Submittals 68<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 68<br />
1.05 Job Conditions 68<br />
1.06 Warranty 68<br />
PART 2 &#8211; PRODUCTS<br />
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 69<br />
2.01 Roof tile 69<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 69<br />
2.03 Membranes 69<br />
2.04 Fasteners 69<br />
2.05 Metal Flashing 69<br />
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 70<br />
2.07 Roof Tile Adhesive 70<br />
2.08 Mortar 70<br />
2.09 Polyurethane adhesives 70<br />
2.10 Eave Closure 70<br />
2.11 Coating 70<br />
2.12 Sheathing 71<br />
ix<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Page<br />
QUICK REFERENCE CHART &#8211; UNDERLAYMENT OPTION “A” 72<br />
SYSTEM #4 &#8211; OPTION “A”<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application 73<br />
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 75<br />
3.04 Gable treatment 75<br />
3.05 Valleys 76<br />
3.06 Valley or Wall Flashings Termination onto Roof Plane 76<br />
3.07 Flashing and Counter Flashings at all Abutments 77<br />
3.08 Head &amp; Apron Flashing 78<br />
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 78<br />
3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 81<br />
3.11 Batten Installation 82<br />
QUICK REFERENCE CHART &#8211; UNDERLAYMENT OPTION “B” 83<br />
SYSTEM #4 &#8211; OPTION “B”<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application 84<br />
3.03 Eave Drip Metal 85<br />
3.04 Valleys 85<br />
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashing at Wall Abutments 88<br />
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 90<br />
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 90<br />
PART IV &#8211; TILE APPLICATION<br />
4.01 Tile Layout 94<br />
4.02 Tile Installation 95<br />
4.03 Flat / Low, Medium and High Profile Tile 96<br />
4.04 Two Piece Barrel Tile 97<br />
4.05 Valleys 98<br />
4.06 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 99<br />
4.07 Hip Starter 99<br />
4.08 Hip and Ridge Installation 99<br />
4.09 Rake/Gable Tile 99<br />
4.10 Wall Abutments 100<br />
4.11 Plumbing Stacks 100<br />
4.12 Coatings 100<br />
4.13 Tile Replacement 100<br />
4.14 Clean-Up 100<br />
4.15 Miscellaneous recommendations 100<br />
APPENDIX 101<br />
GLOSSARY OF TERMS 128<br />
INSTRUCTIONS FOR HIP AND RIDGE ATTACHMENT See Special<br />
Back Section<br />
x<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
System #1 1<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
FRSA &amp; TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES<br />
System One<br />
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines<br />
Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed<br />
metal flashings with edge returns. Tiles are applied over the<br />
underlayment with mechanical fasteners to the deck with or<br />
without horizontal battens.<br />
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):<br />
These mechanically fastened tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint Task Force<br />
of the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association (FRSA) and the<br />
Florida Chapter of the Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these<br />
recommendations are neither warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by<br />
which a mechanically fastened tile system can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the<br />
designer, applicator or developer good roofing practice and some of the industry standards for the<br />
installation of the mechanically-set tiles which have been developed over a period of time from actual<br />
trade practice and the requirements of various building code agencies. These guidelines may not be<br />
applicable in all geographical areas. It is the responsibility of those individuals who are referring to<br />
these guidelines to independently research and determine which is best for their particular project.<br />
System #1 2<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
System One<br />
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines<br />
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.<br />
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:<br />
Slope<br />
of<br />
Roof<br />
4&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
4&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
4&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
4&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
4&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
4&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
As Tested<br />
Battens<br />
or Direct<br />
Deck<br />
See 3.02A<br />
Battens<br />
or Deck<br />
Battens<br />
or Deck<br />
Battens<br />
Battens<br />
or Deck<br />
Battens<br />
or Deck<br />
Battens<br />
or Deck<br />
Choice of Underlayments<br />
1. Single-ply No. 43 or 90# Organic Cap<br />
Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
2. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No. 30 or No. 43<br />
/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
3. Cold Process Application &#8211; No. 30 or No.<br />
43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
4. Two Ply No.30 or No. 43,<br />
Underlayment<br />
5. Self-Adhered Underlayment -Applied<br />
Direct to Wood Deck<br />
6. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
7. Alternative Membranes<br />
Plastic or Compatible<br />
Cement at Fasteners<br />
Penetrating<br />
Underlayments<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Reference<br />
3.02A<br />
3.02B<br />
3.02C<br />
3.02D<br />
3.02E<br />
3.02F<br />
3.02G<br />
NOTE: Some products are not designed to be installed on this system. It is very important you<br />
check with the roof tile manufacturer for the approved profiles. Battens are optional<br />
from 4:12 up to and including 7:12 slope.<br />
DIVISION 7<br />
These guidelines cover Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Roof Tile, using a minimum 3” tile headlap,<br />
or a designed limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance with wind load<br />
requirements.<br />
07300 -Shingles and Roofing Tiles<br />
07320 -Roofing Tiles<br />
-Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines<br />
PART I &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere<br />
A. Rough Carpentry &#8211; Section 06100<br />
B. Roof and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07220.<br />
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07600.<br />
D. Roof Accessories &#8211; Section 07700.<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance<br />
A. Products<br />
1. Concrete Roof Tile – In compliance with ASTM C 1492.<br />
2. Clay Roof Tile &#8211; In compliance with ASTM Standard C 1167.<br />
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:<br />
1. ICC-SSTD-11<br />
or,<br />
2. TAS 101<br />
1.03 Submittals<br />
A. Samples &#8211; tile type and color as selected.<br />
B. Manufacturer’s literature &#8211; including product descriptions and recommended installation<br />
procedures.<br />
C. Tile Compliance Report.<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling<br />
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.<br />
B. When conditions warrant, install temporary battens to facilitate roof loading.<br />
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.<br />
1.05 Job Conditions<br />
A. Do not install underlayment on wet surfaces.<br />
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and<br />
their responsibility for protection of tile after loading and stacking is completed.<br />
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of<br />
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.<br />
1.06 Warranty<br />
A. Materials &#8211; manufacturer’s limited warranty against defects in roof tile for ___ years<br />
(NOTE: Fill in appropriate number of years).<br />
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PART II &#8211; PRODUCTS<br />
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish<br />
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products<br />
section of this manual reflect that process.<br />
2.01 Roof tile<br />
A. Tile Manufacturer:__________________________________________________________________<br />
B. Tile Type:__________________________________________________________________________<br />
C. Approximate Weight:_______________________________________________________________<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments<br />
A. Organic, type II, commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type<br />
II organic saturated.<br />
B. Asphalt &#8211; saturated and coated organic felt base sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43#, per<br />
roll, conforming to ASTM D 2626.<br />
C. Mineral surface roll roofing minimum 74 # per roll commonly called 90#, conforming to<br />
ASTM D 6380.<br />
D. Modified bitumen single ply membrane, minimum 40 mils.<br />
E. Self -adhered membrane, minimum 40 mils.<br />
F. Granular surface SBS modified bitumen membrane, minimum 40 mils. at the selvage edge.<br />
2.03 Membranes<br />
A. Organic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
B. Inorganic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
2.04 Fasteners<br />
A. Tile Fasteners<br />
1. Nails &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal<br />
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or<br />
through thickness of the deck or batten.<br />
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches long,<br />
0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per inch).<br />
2. Screw Fasteners &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion<br />
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117). Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length or penetrate<br />
a minimum 3/4” into the deck or batten. ASTM A 641 Class 1 is a nail specification that<br />
can be converted to screw fasteners through performance testing (ASTM B 117). Each<br />
fastener manufacturer is responsible for supplying this support data.<br />
a. Minimum #8 course thread.<br />
3. Tile fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.<br />
B. Underlayment Fasteners<br />
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through<br />
thickness of deck.<br />
a. Minimum #11 gauge.<br />
2. Tin tags &#8211; not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge<br />
steel sheet metal.<br />
a. Minimum #32 gauge sheet metal.<br />
C. Batten Fasteners – Batten fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.<br />
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2.05 Metal Flashing<br />
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal &#8211; conforming to ASTM A<br />
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building<br />
code.<br />
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements<br />
follow Lead Association recommendation.<br />
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive<br />
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,<br />
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.<br />
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 3019, type III.<br />
C. Asphalt &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 312, type III or IV (Note slope requirements in the building<br />
code).<br />
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants<br />
A. Structural bonding adhesive &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 3498.<br />
2.08 Mortar<br />
A. Materials<br />
1. Cement shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.<br />
2. Aggregates<br />
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded; clean and free from organic materials.<br />
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.<br />
B. Mixes<br />
1. All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall a FBC<br />
(Florida Building Code) product approval.<br />
2. All mortar used to fasten hips and ridges shall, in addition to having a FBC product<br />
approval, be tested in accordance with ICC-SSTD-11 data substantiating compliance.<br />
3. Job proportioned mixes (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for<br />
“wind block” only.<br />
2.09 Eave Closure<br />
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.<br />
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.<br />
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.<br />
2.10 Coating<br />
A. Paint &#8211; color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).<br />
B. Sealer &#8211; for point-up mortar (optional).<br />
C. Tint Seal &#8211; color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).<br />
2.11 Sheathing &#8211; Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.<br />
NOTE: Refer to building code wind load requirements.<br />
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.<br />
B. Battens &#8211; material to be decay resistant.<br />
1. Battens should not be bowed or twisted.<br />
2. Horizontal battens should be nominal 1” x 2”.<br />
C. Nailer Boards &#8211; Material to be decay resistant<br />
1. Nailer boards should not be bowed or twisted.<br />
2. Nailer boards shall be a nominal 2 inches x (sufficient height to satisfy conditions).<br />
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
PART III &#8211; EXECUTION<br />
3.01 Inspection<br />
A. Verify that surfaces to receive underlayments are uniform, smooth, clean and dry.<br />
B. Proper ventilation is recommended on all tile applications. Verify ventilation requirements as<br />
set forth in the building code.<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with compatible flashing cement and membrane<br />
where applicable.<br />
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment<br />
with this system (except on 3.02 E).<br />
A. Single-ply No.43 or 90# Organic Cap Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 1)<br />
A single-ply No.43 underlayment application shall be installed under mandatory use of<br />
battens. A 90# organic cap sheet or modified cap sheet underlayment application can be<br />
installed with tiles applied direct to the cap sheet. Prior to applying the No.43, 90# or<br />
modified cap sheet, attach a 36” wide strip of same underlayment, (sweat sheet) down the<br />
center of the valley. Secure near the edge of the felt 24” on center. Apply a No.43 or 90# or<br />
modified cap sheet perpendicular to the slope of the roof and mechanically attached to the<br />
wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced 36” on center near<br />
the top edge of felt. Use a minimum 4” head lap and 6” side laps. Extend underlayment sheet<br />
up vertical surfaces a minimum 4”. Overlap hip and ridges a minimum of 6”. Secure near the<br />
edge of felt 12” on center at overlaps and side laps of the underlayment.<br />
DRAWING 1<br />
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B. Hot Mop No.30 or No.43 / 90lb. Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. A No.30 or No.43 base<br />
sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails<br />
or other fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at<br />
the laps. Extend base sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Base side laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply a<br />
layer of organic cap sheet in an application rate of 25 #/sq. ± 15% mopping of asphalt. With<br />
this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base sheet, allowing felt to touch felt.<br />
Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12”<br />
on center.<br />
C. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. A No.30 or No.43 base<br />
ply sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap<br />
nails or other fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center<br />
at the laps. Extend base ply sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Base ply side laps<br />
shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet,<br />
apply a cap sheet according to underlayment/adhesive manufacturer recommendations. Cap<br />
sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed<br />
12” on center.<br />
NOTE: For Cold Process-Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap<br />
sheet laps at a maximum of 3’ on center.<br />
DRAWING 2<br />
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D. Two Ply No. 30 or No.43 Underlayment<br />
This underlayment application is installed under the mandatory use of battens. A 19” wide<br />
starter strip of a No. 30 or No.43 underlayment shall be applied horizontally at the eaves. A<br />
full 36” width sheet shall be applied covering the starter sheet. The starter sheet and each<br />
succeeding full width sheet of felt shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails<br />
and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced 24” on center, 1” from the top edge of<br />
felt and 12” on center at the laps. Succeeding sheets shall be lapped 19” (17” exposure) over<br />
the preceding sheets. Extend base sheets a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Side laps shall<br />
be 6”.<br />
E. Self-Adhered Underlayment &#8211; Applied Direct to Wood Deck.<br />
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of<br />
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’<br />
recommendations.<br />
F. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. No.30 felt shall be<br />
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other<br />
fasteners spaced 12” on center at the laps. Extend base ply sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical<br />
surfaces. Base sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of<br />
2”. Over base sheet, apply one layer of self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the selfadhered<br />
underlayment manufacturers’ recommendation. Backnail the self-adhered<br />
underlayment a minimum of 12” on center.<br />
G. Alternative Membranes<br />
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to<br />
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building<br />
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function<br />
in combination with a prepared roof covering.<br />
3.03 Drip Edge Metal &#8211; Choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 3.12 C.2.c).<br />
A. Single ply underlayment systems<br />
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave, over the sheathing. The metal shall be<br />
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of<br />
compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. All metal laps shall be<br />
sealed.<br />
2. Apply underlayments as per section 3.02 A or E for single ply underlayments.<br />
or,<br />
B. 2-ply underlayment systems<br />
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed over base ply sheet, fastened 6” on center with 12 ga.<br />
corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”.<br />
3.04 Gable treatment &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
A. Underlayment wrapped gable &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: Not recommended for flush finish. Rake tiles must be installed.<br />
1. Extend underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down onto fascia or barge board.<br />
Secure with nails and tin tags, round cap nails or other fasteners 6” on center.<br />
or,<br />
2. Trim underlayment at fascia or barge board. Install a peel and stick underlayment<br />
extending underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down and seal onto fascia or barge<br />
board.<br />
System #1 8<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
B. Metal Finish<br />
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the gable, over the finished underlayment. The metal<br />
shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of<br />
compatible metals. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water<br />
shedding capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with<br />
asphaltic adhesive.<br />
3.05 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the valley.<br />
NOTE: Closed valley metal shall be either a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a<br />
minimum 2 1/2” high center diverter and a minimum 1” metal edge returns or a ribbed<br />
design with 1” center diverter, a minimum four (4) 3/8” ribs spaced 3 1/2” with 3 3/4”<br />
flange.<br />
A. Install preformed closed valley metal. Lap all joints a minimum of 6” and apply a coating or<br />
separator sheet. (See Drawing 3)<br />
or,<br />
B. Install preformed open valley with a minimum of 16” (24” stretch-out) with a minimum 1”<br />
high twin center diverter and minimum 1” metal edge returns. Lap joints a minimum 6” and<br />
apply a coating or separator sheet. (See Drawing 4).<br />
For A or B: When using valley metal with returns,<br />
1. Secure with clips fabricated from similar or compatible material. Clip 1” metal edge<br />
returns to either deck or batten strip with roofing nail through metal strap.<br />
2. Trim metal at all valley/ridge junctions, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the<br />
valley.<br />
3. Install lead soaker at all valley/ridge junctions. Turn lead up a minimum of 1” to create a<br />
water diverter, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the valley.<br />
4. Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip edge a minimum of 1”.<br />
Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond drip edge.<br />
DRAWING 3<br />
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 4<br />
DRAWING 5<br />
System #1 10<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
3.06 Valley or Wall Fastenings Termination onto Roof Plane<br />
A. When valley terminates onto roof plane install in accordance with standard valley flashing<br />
procedures:<br />
1. Apply a lead soaker/skirt underneath the eave end of valley or wall flashing to carry water<br />
off the valley or wall flashing back onto the field tile (See Drawing 6).<br />
2. If lead skirt is not used, extend length of valley metal to carry water off the valley back<br />
onto the field tile.<br />
DRAWING 6<br />
3.07 Flashing and Counterflashings at Wall Abutments (See Drawing 7)<br />
A. Install preformed metal wall tray 5” vertical flange, 6” base flange with 1” metal edge return<br />
flush to base of walls over underlayment. Start at lower portion and work up to ensure<br />
watertight application.<br />
B. Secure with clips fabricated from compatible material 24” on center. Clip 1” metal edge<br />
return to deck or batten strip with roofing nail through a metal strap.<br />
C. Nail vertical metal flange near outside edge. Secure as necessary to meet job conditions. Lap<br />
joints a minimum of 4” and apply flashing cement.<br />
D. On block walls, seal along entire edge of vertical metal flange, covering all nail penetrations<br />
with flashing cement and membrane.<br />
E. On frame walls, install vapor barrier over flashing.<br />
F. When installing optional counterflashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of 2 1/2”.<br />
Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set metal into reglets and seal<br />
thoroughly. Lap joints a minimum of 3”.<br />
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 7<br />
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the pan<br />
flashing. In all cases, flashing shall be designed to adequately direct water back onto the<br />
tiles.<br />
3.08 Head &amp; Apron Flashing (See Drawings 8, 9 &amp; 10)<br />
A. Install apron flashing a minimum 4” on tile surface. Nail vertical flange of flashing within 1”<br />
of metal edge and secure as necessary.<br />
System #1 12<br />
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DRAWING 8<br />
DRAWING 9<br />
System #1 13<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 10<br />
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See Drawing 11)<br />
A. Curbs shall be a minimum nominal 2” x 6”, and a minimum nominal 1 1/2” above tile height.<br />
B. Install a minimum 12” width lead at eave end of each curb.<br />
C. Secure with fasteners 6” on center, insuring fasteners will be covered by skylight/hood vent<br />
flange.<br />
D. Continue with flexible or rigid flashing on both sides of the curb working up toward ridge.<br />
Trim as necessary to ensure water shedding onto field tile.<br />
E. Secure with roofing fasteners 6” on center.<br />
F. Install flexible or rigid flashing of sufficent width at ridge end of curb.<br />
G. Seal all fasteners penetrations, at skylight or hood vent joints.<br />
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, installation shall meet Section 3.09 above<br />
and skylight manufacturer’s installation instructions.<br />
System #1 14<br />
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DRAWING 11<br />
3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. (See Drawings 12, 13 &amp; 14)<br />
A. Seal around penetration<br />
B. Apply skirt flashing over last field tile cut previously installed extending under the course of<br />
tile above the penetration. Insure flashing is of sufficient width to redirect the water away from<br />
penetration.<br />
C. Seal flashing to tile as needed.<br />
NOTE: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation<br />
instructions.<br />
DRAWING 12<br />
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 13<br />
DRAWING 14<br />
3.11 Batten Installation (See Drawing 15)<br />
Horizontal battens shall be a maximum of 4’ in length or batten material may be longer in length<br />
provided there are 1/2” weepholes every 4’.<br />
A. Install top edge of horizontal batten to horizontal line. Horizontal battens may be a minimum<br />
nominal 1”x 2”.<br />
B. Fasten and secure maximum 24” on center with fasteners of sufficient length to penetrate the<br />
sheathing a minimum of 3/4”.<br />
C. Leave 1/2” space between batten ends and between batten and metal edge returns.<br />
D. Fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.<br />
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DRAWING 15<br />
3.12 Tile Installation<br />
A. Layout &#8211; Horizontal<br />
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.<br />
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter, or other functional<br />
requirements.<br />
2. For batten installation only, chalk line approximately 1 1/2” from ridge.<br />
3. Chalk succeeding lines for a minimum 3” headlap unless restricted by product design.<br />
4. Increase headlap when necessary for equal course spacing, or as needed for unusual<br />
application conditions.<br />
B. Layout &#8211; Vertical &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation (Required for flat tile)<br />
a. Gable end roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting<br />
gable to accommodate rake tile.<br />
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.<br />
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
or,<br />
2. Straight bond tile installation<br />
a. Gable end roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable.<br />
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ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
C. Tile Installation<br />
1. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.<br />
2. Eave treatment &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
a. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure &#8211; Install closure strip along eave. Fasten with a<br />
minimum 3 fasteners per 36” strip (See Drawing 16) or,<br />
b. Metal Eave Closure &#8211; Install closure strip along eave. Fasten a minimum 18” on<br />
center. If metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center (See Drawing<br />
17) or,<br />
c. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip &#8211; (when using a 3/4” thick fascia, a nominal 2” x 2”<br />
wood starter strip must be installed behind fascia).<br />
i. Install fascia board approximately 1 1/2” above roof deck or a nominal 2” x 2”<br />
wood starter strip at roof edge (See Drawing 18). Choose one of the following:<br />
ii. Install 8” tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and/or starter strip to support<br />
metal flashing when using drip edge. Tapered cant strip is optional when using<br />
anti-ponding metal or,<br />
iii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive<br />
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Nail top edge of flange onto roof.<br />
iv. Apply underlayment as per Section 3.02.<br />
d. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure- applied per manufacturer’s specifications.<br />
NOTE: Eave closure shall terminate at outer edge of valley and wall flashings.<br />
DRAWING 16<br />
System #1 18<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 17<br />
DRAWING 18<br />
3.13 Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile<br />
A. Install first course of tile, making certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first<br />
course.<br />
B. Cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile courses when using the staggered/cross bond<br />
method of installation.<br />
C. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal and/or vertical fashion when utilizing<br />
straight bond method.<br />
D. Lay succeeding courses of field tile in same manner.<br />
E. Secure tile with fasteners (see fastening chart).<br />
F. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.<br />
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the<br />
design pressures for the building and the fixing calculations set forth in the building<br />
code.<br />
System #1 19<br />
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3.14 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip edge a minimum of 1”.<br />
Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond drip edge.<br />
NOTE: It is not recommended to install trim tile in valleys. It may be necessary to remove the<br />
lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders at wall and valley flashings for<br />
proper positioning of cut field tiles and to facilitate water flow.<br />
A. Preformed Metal With 1” Returns<br />
1. Closed Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter (See<br />
Drawing 19).<br />
2. Open Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of two water diverters (See<br />
Drawing 20).<br />
DRAWING 19<br />
DRAWING 20<br />
System #1 20<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
3.15 Hip Starter &#8211; Choose one of the following: (Refer to Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)<br />
3.16 Hip and Ridge Installation &#8211; (Refer to Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)<br />
3.17 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards &#8211; (Refer to Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)<br />
3.18 Rake/Gable Tile &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
A. Rake/Gable Tile<br />
1. Install first rake tile to exposed length of first course of field tile with factory finish of rake<br />
tile towards the eave.<br />
2. Fasten rake tile with a minimum two 10D nails and/or of screws sufficient length to<br />
penetrate the framing a minimum of 3/4”.<br />
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant<br />
headlap.<br />
B. Metal Finish<br />
1. Install prefabricated gable metal with 1” water return.<br />
2. Fasten by clipping 24” on center.<br />
NOTE: Rake tile application at finishing end may need special consideration to provide proper<br />
drainage, i.e. flashing or sealant may be needed.<br />
3.19 Wall Abutments<br />
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls.<br />
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders<br />
at wall and valley flashings for proper positioning of cut field tiles and to facilitate water<br />
flow.<br />
3.20 Coatings &#8211; (optional)<br />
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.<br />
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashings.<br />
3.21 Tile Replacement<br />
A. Damaged Tile<br />
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair<br />
underlayment if necessary.<br />
2. Apply adhesive per adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.<br />
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.<br />
4. Removal of tile lugs is not recommended on batten systems.<br />
B. Small Valley and Hip Cuts<br />
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive<br />
manufacturer’s recommendations.<br />
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position which assures proper contact.<br />
NOTE: For hip cuts on roof slopes &gt;7:12, mechanical fasteners may be required.<br />
3.22 Clean-Up<br />
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.<br />
3.23 Miscellaneous recommendations<br />
A. Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind on<br />
finished roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.<br />
System #1 21<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005</p>
<p>System #2 22<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
FRSA &amp; TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES<br />
System Two<br />
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines<br />
Sealed underlayment system using metal flashings without<br />
edge returns. Tiles are applied with mechanical fasteners<br />
direct to water-proofed deck.<br />
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):<br />
These mechanically fastened tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint Task<br />
Force of the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association (FRSA) and<br />
the Florida Chapter of the Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these<br />
recommendations are neither warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by<br />
which a mechanically fastened tile system can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the<br />
designer, applicator or developer good roofing practice and some of the industry standards for the<br />
installation of the mechanically-set tiles which have been developed over a period of time from actual<br />
trade practice and the requirements of various building code agencies. These guidelines may not be<br />
applicable in all geographical areas. It is the responsibility of those individuals who are referring<br />
to these guidelines to independently research and determine which is best for their particular<br />
project.<br />
System #2 23<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
System Two<br />
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines<br />
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.<br />
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:<br />
Slope<br />
of<br />
Roof<br />
4&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
3&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
3&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
3&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
3&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
As tested<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Only<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Choice of Underlayments<br />
1. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or<br />
Modified Cap Sheet<br />
2. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43 /<br />
90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
3. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or<br />
No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Sheet<br />
4. Self Adhered Underlayment &#8211; Applied<br />
Direct to Wood Deck<br />
5. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
6. Alternative Membranes<br />
Plastic or Compatible<br />
Cement at Fasteners<br />
Penetrating<br />
Underlayments<br />
Required<br />
Required<br />
Required<br />
See note below<br />
See note below<br />
See note below<br />
Reference<br />
3.02 A<br />
3.02 B<br />
3.02 C<br />
3.02 D<br />
3.02 E<br />
3.02 F<br />
Note: Refer to underlayment manufacturer&#8217;s recommendations.<br />
DIVISION 7<br />
These guidelines cover Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Roof Tile, using a minimum 3” tile headlap,<br />
or a designed limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance with wind load<br />
requirements.<br />
07300 &#8211; Shingles and Roofing Tiles<br />
07320 &#8211; Roofing Tiles<br />
- Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines<br />
PART I &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere<br />
A. Rough Carpentry &#8211; Section 06100<br />
B. Roof and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07220<br />
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07600<br />
D. Roof Accessories &#8211; Section 07700<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance<br />
A. Products<br />
1. Concrete Roof Tile &#8211; In compliance with the physical test requirements of the building<br />
code.<br />
2. Clay Roof Tile &#8211; In compliance with ASTM Standard C 1167.<br />
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:<br />
1. ICC-SSTD-11<br />
Or,<br />
2. TAS 101<br />
1.03 Submittals<br />
A. Samples &#8211; tile type and color as selected.<br />
B. Manufacturer’s literature &#8211; including product descriptions and recommended installation<br />
procedures.<br />
C. Tile Compliance Report.<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling<br />
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.<br />
B. When conditions warrant, install temporary battens to facilitate roof loading.<br />
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.<br />
1.05 Job Conditions<br />
A. Do not install underlayment or tiles on wet surfaces.<br />
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and<br />
their responsibility for protection of tile after loading and stacking is completed.<br />
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of<br />
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.<br />
1.06 Warranty<br />
A. Materials &#8211; manufacturer’s limited warranty against defects in roof tile for ___ years.<br />
(NOTE: Fill in appropriate number of years)<br />
System #2 24<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
PART II &#8211; PRODUCTS<br />
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish<br />
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products<br />
section of this manual reflect that process.<br />
2.01 Roof tile<br />
A. Tile Manufacturer:_____________________________________________________________<br />
B. Tile:_________________________________________________________________________<br />
C. Approximate Weight:___________________________________________________________<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments<br />
A. Organic, type II, commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type<br />
II organic saturated.<br />
B. Asphalt &#8211; Saturated and Coated Organic Felt Base Sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43#, per<br />
roll, conforming to ASTM D 2626.<br />
C. Mineral surface roll roofing felt minimum 74 lbs. per roll commonly called 90#, conforming<br />
to ASTM D 249.<br />
D. Modified bitumen single ply membrane minimum 40 mils.<br />
E. Self-adhered membrane minimum 40 mils.<br />
F. Granular surface SBS modified bitumen membrane, minimum 40 mils. at the selvage edge.<br />
2.03 Membranes<br />
A. Organic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
B. Inorganic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
2.04 Fasteners<br />
A. Tile Fasteners<br />
1. Nails &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal<br />
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or<br />
through thickness of the deck.<br />
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches<br />
long, 0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per<br />
inch).<br />
2. Screw Fasteners &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion<br />
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117). Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length or penetrate<br />
a minimum 3/4” into the deck.<br />
a. Minimum #8 course thread.<br />
3. Tile fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.<br />
B. Underlayment Fasteners<br />
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through<br />
thickness of deck.<br />
a. Minimum #11 gauge.<br />
2. Tin tags &#8211; not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge<br />
steel sheet metal.<br />
a. Minimum #32 gauge sheet metal.<br />
2.05 Metal Flashing<br />
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal &#8211; conforming to ASTM A<br />
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building<br />
code.<br />
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements<br />
follow the Lead Association recommendations.<br />
System #2 25<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive<br />
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,<br />
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.<br />
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 3019, type III.<br />
C. Asphalt &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 312, type III or IV (Note slope requirements in the building<br />
code).<br />
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants<br />
A. Structural bonding adhesive &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 3498.<br />
2.08 Mortar<br />
A. Materials<br />
1. Cement shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.<br />
2. Aggregates<br />
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded; clean and free from organic<br />
materials.<br />
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.<br />
B. Mixes<br />
1. All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall have a<br />
FBC (Florida Building Code) product approval.<br />
2. All mortar used to fasten hips and ridges shall, in addition to having a FBC product<br />
approval, be tested in accordance with ICC-SSTD-11 with data substantiating compliance.<br />
3. Job proportioned mixes (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for<br />
“wind block” only.<br />
2.09 Eave Closure<br />
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.<br />
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.<br />
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.<br />
D. Mortar (color optional) on granular surface underlayments only.<br />
2.10 Coating<br />
A. Paint &#8211; color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).<br />
B. Sealer &#8211; for point-up mortar (optional).<br />
C. Tint Seal &#8211; color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).<br />
2.11 Sheathing &#8211; Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.<br />
NOTE: Refer to building code Wind Load requirements.<br />
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.<br />
B. Sheathing &#8211; Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.<br />
C. Nailer Boards &#8211; Material to be decay resistant or pressure treated in compliance with AWPI C2<br />
or better.<br />
1. Nailer boards should not be bowed or twisted.<br />
2. Nailer boards shall be a nominal 2 inches x (sufficient height to satisfy conditions).<br />
System #2 26<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
PART III &#8211; EXECUTION<br />
3.01 Inspection<br />
A. Verify that surfaces to receive underlayments and roof tile are uniform, smooth, clean and dry.<br />
B. Proper ventilation is recommended on all tile applications. Verify ventilation requirements as<br />
set forth in the building code.<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with flashing cement and membrane where<br />
applicable.<br />
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment<br />
with this system (except on 3.02 D).<br />
A. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 1)<br />
A 90# organic cap sheet or modified cap sheet underlayment application can be installed with<br />
tiles applied direct to the cap sheet. Prior to applying the 90# or modified cap sheet, attach a<br />
36” wide strip of same underlayment, (sweat sheet) down the center of the valley. Secure near<br />
the edge of the felt 24” on center. Apply a 90# or modified cap sheet perpendicular to the slope<br />
of the roof and mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails<br />
or other fasteners spaced 12” on center near the top edge of felt. Use a minimum 4” head lap<br />
and 6” side laps. Overlap hip and ridges a minimum of 6”. Seal all laps with compatible plastic<br />
cement.<br />
DRAWING 1<br />
System #2 27<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
B. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated<br />
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 base sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood<br />
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered<br />
in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at the laps. Extend base sheet a minimum of 4” up<br />
vertical surfaces. Base sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply the cap sheet in an application rate 25 #/sq.<br />
± 15% mopping of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base<br />
sheet, allowing felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.<br />
C. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. The roof cover is<br />
terminated at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 base ply sheet shall be mechanically attached<br />
to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced in a 12”<br />
grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at the laps. Extend base ply sheet a<br />
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Base ply side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head<br />
laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply a cap sheet according to<br />
underlayment/adhesive manufacturer recommendations. Cap sheet side laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.<br />
NOTE: For Cold Process-Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap<br />
sheet laps at a maximum of 3’ on center.<br />
DRAWING 2<br />
System #2 28<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
D. Self-Adhered Underlayment &#8211; Applied Direct to Wood Deck.<br />
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of<br />
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self–adhered underlayment manufacturers’<br />
recommendations.<br />
E. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. A No.30 felt shall be<br />
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other<br />
fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at the laps.<br />
Extend base ply a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base ply, apply one<br />
layer of self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment<br />
manufacturers’ recommendation.<br />
F. Alternative Membranes<br />
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to<br />
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building<br />
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function<br />
in combination with a prepared roof covering.<br />
3.03 Drip Edge Metal &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
(For anti-ponding metal, see Section 3.08 C.2.c)<br />
A. Single ply underlayment systems<br />
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave, over the sheathing. The metal shall be<br />
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of<br />
compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal shall be coated<br />
with a bed of flashing cement.<br />
2. Apply underlayments as per section 3.02 A for single ply underlayments.<br />
3. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring watershedding capabilities of<br />
all metal laps. On gable, the metal and underlayments sheet shall be joined with a bed of<br />
flashing cement, and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric<br />
shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
or,<br />
B. 2-ply underlayment systems<br />
1. Edge metal shall be installed over the anchor sheet at all perimeters fastened 6” on center<br />
with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails or other fasteners. All joints shall be lapped a<br />
minimum of 2”. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring<br />
watershedding capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal<br />
with asphaltic adhesive.<br />
or,<br />
2. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave over the finished cap sheet. The metal shall<br />
be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other fasteners.<br />
All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal and cap sheet shall be joined with<br />
a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The<br />
fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
System #2 29<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
3.04 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following: (See drawings 3, 4 &amp; 5)<br />
A. Two Ply System &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Standard Roll Metal &#8211; minimum 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the<br />
valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails,<br />
or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All<br />
joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall<br />
be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawing 6).<br />
or,<br />
2. Preformed metal without returns &#8211; minimum 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor<br />
sheet in the valley and shall fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant<br />
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley<br />
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap<br />
sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawings 7).<br />
DRAWING 3<br />
DRAWING 4<br />
System #2 30<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 5<br />
B. Over Cap Sheet &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Standard Roll Metal &#8211; minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the cap sheet in the valley<br />
and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other<br />
fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall<br />
be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be joined<br />
with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric.<br />
The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
or,<br />
2. Preformed Metal Without Returns -minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the anchor<br />
sheet in the valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant<br />
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley<br />
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap<br />
sheet shall be joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated<br />
cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
DRAWING 6<br />
System #2 31<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 7<br />
DRAWING 8<br />
System #2 32<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 9<br />
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments<br />
A. Single Ply System (See Drawing 8 and 9)<br />
1. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on single ply<br />
underlayment and nail near the metals edge. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement<br />
between laps. Start at lower portion and work up to ensure water tightness. Nail 6” on<br />
center near the edge of the metal.<br />
2. On block walls, seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with<br />
flashing cement and membrane where required.<br />
3. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of<br />
21/2”. Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set metal into<br />
reglets and seal thoroughly. Lap joints a minimum of 4” and apply flashing cement or<br />
sealant between the laps.<br />
4. On frame walls, install vapor barrier over flashing.<br />
5. All head/apron flashing shall be installed on top of cap sheet (See Drawing 9). Ensure the<br />
deck flange conforms to the pitch of the roof and extend minimum 4” onto deck. Seal<br />
along edge with flashing cement and membrane.<br />
System #2 33<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
B. Two Ply System &#8211; (Choose 1 or 2) (See Drawings 6 and 7 or 10 and 11).<br />
1. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on the anchor sheet and<br />
nail near the metals edge. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps. Start at<br />
lower portion and work up to ensure water tightness. Fastened 6” on center near the edge<br />
of the metal. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive.<br />
or,<br />
DRAWING 10<br />
System #2 34<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 11<br />
System #2 35<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
2. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing on the cap sheet and fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion<br />
resistant roof nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the<br />
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 4” and apply plastic cement between laps.<br />
Cap sheet shall be joined to the “L” flashing with flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt<br />
saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing<br />
cement.<br />
3. Seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with flashing cement<br />
and membrane where required.<br />
4. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing minimum 3”.<br />
Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set into reglets (secured<br />
properly) and thoroughly caulk. Lap joints minimum 3” and apply flashing cement<br />
between laps.<br />
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See 3.05)<br />
A. Install in compliance with regular flashing installation procedures.<br />
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, refer to skylight manufacturer’s installation<br />
instructions.<br />
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. (See Drawings 12 &amp; 13)<br />
A. Apply flashing cement around base of protrusion and on the bottom side of metal flanges<br />
sealing unit base flashing to deck.<br />
B. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing near the edge. Make certain base is flush to deck.<br />
NOTE 1: If pipes, vents and/or turbines are installed after finished cap sheet has been applied<br />
follow instructions in 3.07 A &amp; B. Cap sheet and metal flange shall be joined with a<br />
bed of flashing cement and a strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The<br />
fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
NOTE 2: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation<br />
instructions.<br />
System #2 36<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 12<br />
System #2 37<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 13<br />
3.08 Tile Installation<br />
A. Layout &#8211; Horizontal<br />
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.<br />
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter or other functional<br />
requirements.<br />
2. Chalk succeeding lines for a minimum 3” headlap unless restricted by product design.<br />
3. Increase headlap when necessary for equal course spacing, or as needed for unusual<br />
application conditions.<br />
B. Layout &#8211; Vertical &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation -<br />
a. Gable end &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting<br />
gable to accommodate rake tile.<br />
or,<br />
ii. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1/4” from starting<br />
gable to accommodate flush finish.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.<br />
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
or,<br />
2. Straight bond tile installation &#8211; (Not recommended for flat/low profile tile)<br />
a. Gable end<br />
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable.<br />
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
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b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.<br />
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
C. Tile Installation<br />
1. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.<br />
2. Eave treatment &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
a. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure &#8211; Install closure strip along eave. Fasten with<br />
minimum three fasteners per 36” strip (See Drawing 14).<br />
or,<br />
b. Metal Eave Closure &#8211; Install closure strip along eave. Fasten minimum 18” on<br />
center. If metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center (See<br />
Drawing 15).<br />
or,<br />
c. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip &#8211; (when using a 3/4” fascia, a nominal 1” x 2”<br />
wood starter strip must be installed behind fascia).<br />
i. Install fascia board approximately 3/4” above roof deck or a nominal 1” x 2”<br />
wood starter strip at roof edge (See Drawing 16).<br />
Choose one of the following:<br />
ii. Install 8” tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and/or starter strip to support<br />
metal flashing when using drip edge.<br />
or,<br />
iii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive<br />
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Tapered cant strip is optional when using antiponding<br />
metal. Nail top edge of flange onto roof.<br />
NOTE: Limited to slopes 3:12 and over.<br />
iv. Apply underlayment as per Section 3.02.<br />
or<br />
d. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure (apply per manufacturer’s instructions)<br />
DRAWING 14<br />
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DRAWING 15<br />
DRAWING 16<br />
e. Mortar Application &#8211; Install mortar to elevate eave edge.<br />
i. Apply mortar along the eave edge, applying enough mortar to elevate the eave end<br />
of the tile to be on plane with the remaining roof tile.<br />
ii. Point and smooth finish flush to eave line.<br />
iii. A minimum 3/8” weephole flush with the roof underlayment shall be formed at<br />
the spacing of not less than one weephole per tile.<br />
3.09 Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile<br />
A. Starting at lower left corner (facing down roof) install first course of tile. Make certain all tile<br />
overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first course.<br />
B. Secure tile with fasteners through a minimum 1/8” thick compatible sealant applied to<br />
underlayment.<br />
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C. Cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile courses when using staggered/cross bond method<br />
of installation.<br />
D. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal and/or vertical fashion when utilizing<br />
straight bond method.<br />
E. Lay succeeding courses of field tile in same manner.<br />
F. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.<br />
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the<br />
design pressures for the building and the fixing calculations set forth in the local<br />
building code.<br />
3.10 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: It is not recommended to install trim tile in the valleys. It may be necessary to remove<br />
the lugs from the field tile at walls and valley flashing for proper positioning of cut field<br />
tiles.<br />
A. Standard Roll Valley (See Drawing 17)<br />
1. Closed Valley &#8211; Miter tile to meet at center of valley.<br />
2. Open Valley &#8211; Chalk a line minimum 2” on both sides valley center. Place bed of mortar<br />
along outside edge of chalk lines. Miter tile to form straight border and point mortar to<br />
finish.<br />
or,<br />
B. Preformed Metal Without Returns<br />
1. Closed Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter. (See<br />
Drawing 18)<br />
2. Open Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of the two water diverters.<br />
(See Drawing 19)<br />
DRAWING 17<br />
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DRAWING 18<br />
DRAWING 19<br />
3.11 Hip Starter &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
A. Prefabricated hip starter<br />
1. Miter tile as hip starter to match eave lines.<br />
or,<br />
B. Use standard hip tiles as starter.<br />
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation – (See Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)<br />
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards &#8211; (See Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)<br />
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3.14 Rake/Gable &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
A. Rake/Gable Tile<br />
1. Install first rake tile the exposed length of first course of field tile with factory finish of<br />
rake tile towards the eave.<br />
2. Fasten rake tile with a minimum two 10D nails and/or of sufficient length to penetrate the<br />
framing a minimum of 3/4”.<br />
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant<br />
head lap.<br />
or,<br />
B. Mortar Finish<br />
1. Place mortar bed along roof edge.<br />
2. Point smooth to a straight edge finish.<br />
3.15 Wall Abutments<br />
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls. Point-up mortar is optional.<br />
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders at<br />
wall flashing for proper positioning of cut field tiles. For tiles installed at headwalls, tile<br />
shall be installed with roof tile adhesive.<br />
3.16 Plumbing Stacks<br />
A. Cut tile to fit close to plumbing stack, fill void with mortar and point to finish.<br />
3.17 Coatings &#8211; (optional)<br />
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.<br />
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashings.<br />
3.18 Tile Replacement<br />
A. Damaged Tile<br />
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair<br />
underlayment if necessary.<br />
2. Apply adhesive per adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.<br />
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.<br />
B. Small Valley and Hip Cut<br />
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive<br />
manufacturer’s recommendations.<br />
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position which assures proper contact.<br />
NOTE: For roof slopes &gt; 7”:12” on hip cuts only, mechanical fastening may be required.<br />
3.19 Clean-Up<br />
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.<br />
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations<br />
A. Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind on<br />
finished roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.<br />
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FRSA &amp; TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES<br />
System Three<br />
Mortar Set Tile Applications Only<br />
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings.<br />
Tiles are applied with mortar direct to waterproofed deck.<br />
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):<br />
These mortar set fastened tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint Task Force<br />
of the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association (FRSA) and the<br />
Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these recommendations are neither<br />
warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by which a mortar set tile system<br />
can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the designer, applicator or developer good roofing<br />
practice and some of the industry standards for the installation of mortar set tiles which have been<br />
developed over a period of time from actual trade practice and the requirements of various building<br />
code agencies. These guidelines may not be applicable in all geographical areas. It is the<br />
responsibility of those individuals who are referring to these guidelines to independently<br />
research and determine which is best for their particular project.<br />
System #3 45<br />
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System Three<br />
Mortar Set Tile Guidelines<br />
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.<br />
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:<br />
Slope<br />
of<br />
Roof<br />
2&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
2&#8243;:12&#8243; and<br />
greater<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Only<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Choice of Underlayments<br />
1. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43 /<br />
90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
2. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43<br />
/ 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
Plastic or Compatible<br />
Cement at Fasteners<br />
Penetrating<br />
Underlayments<br />
Required<br />
Required<br />
Reference<br />
3.02A<br />
3.02B<br />
NOTE: Alternate underlayments may be used based on laboratory or field testing.<br />
NOTE: Additional interplies may be used prior to installing cap sheet.<br />
DIVISION 7<br />
These guidelines cover Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Roof Tile, using a minimum 2” tile headlap,<br />
or a design limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance with wind load<br />
requirements.<br />
07300 &#8211; Shingles and Roofing Tiles<br />
07320 &#8211; Roofing Tiles<br />
- Mortar Set Tile Guidelines<br />
PART I &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere<br />
A. Rough Carpentry &#8211; Section 06100.<br />
B. Roof and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07220.<br />
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07600.<br />
D. Roof Accessories &#8211; Section 07700.<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance<br />
A. Products.<br />
1. Concrete Roof Tile &#8211; In compliance with physical test requirements of the building code.<br />
2. Clay Roof Tile &#8211; In compliance with ASTM Standard C 1167.<br />
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:<br />
1. ICC-SSTD-11<br />
Or,<br />
2. TAS 101<br />
1.03 Submittals<br />
A. Samples &#8211; tile type and color as selected.<br />
B. Manufacturer’s literature &#8211; including product descriptions and recommended installation<br />
procedures.<br />
C. Tile Compliance Report.<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling<br />
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.<br />
B. When conditions warrant, install temporary battens to facilitate roof loading.<br />
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.<br />
1.05 Job Conditions<br />
A. Do not install underlayment on wet surfaces.<br />
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and<br />
their responsibility for protection of tile after loading and stacking is completed.<br />
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of<br />
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.<br />
1.06 Warranty<br />
A. Materials &#8211; manufacturer’s limited warranty against defects in roof tile for ___ years.<br />
(NOTE: Fill in appropriate number of years)<br />
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PART II &#8211; PRODUCTS<br />
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish<br />
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products<br />
section of this manual reflect that process.<br />
2.01 Roof Tile<br />
A. Tile Manufacturer:__________________________________________________________________<br />
B. Tile Type:__________________________________________________________________________<br />
C. Approximate Weight:________________________________________________________________<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments<br />
A. Organic, type II, commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type<br />
II organic saturated.<br />
B. Asphalt Saturated and Coated Organic Felt Base Sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43#, per<br />
roll, conforming to ASTM D 2626.<br />
C. Mineral surface roll roofing felt minimum 74 lbs. per roll commonly called 90# conforming<br />
to ASTM D 6380.<br />
2.03 Membranes<br />
A. Organic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
B. Inorganic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
2.04 Fasteners<br />
A. Tile Fasteners<br />
1. Nails &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal<br />
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or<br />
through thickness of the deck.<br />
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches<br />
long, 0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per inch)<br />
b. Smooth or screw shank nails be 10d corrosion resistant steel (3 inches long, 0.28<br />
inch flat head diameter, 0.128 inch screw or 0.131 inch smooth shank diameter).<br />
2. Screw Fasteners &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion<br />
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117. Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length or penetrate<br />
a minimum 3/4” into the deck.<br />
a. Minimum #8 course thread.<br />
B. Underlayment Fasteners<br />
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through<br />
thickness of deck.<br />
a. Minimum #1 gauge.<br />
2. Tin tags &#8211; not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge<br />
steel sheet metal.<br />
3. Cap Nails &#8211; 1” round 11 gauge of sufficient length to penetrate 3/4” into or through<br />
thickness of deck.<br />
2.05 Metal Flashing<br />
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal &#8211; conforming to ASTM A<br />
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building<br />
code.<br />
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements<br />
follow the Lead Association recommendations.<br />
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2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive<br />
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,<br />
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.<br />
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 3019, type III.<br />
C. Asphalt &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 312, type III or IV (Refer to slope requirements in the<br />
building code).<br />
2.07 Adhesives / Sealants<br />
A. Structural bonding adhesive conforming to ASTM D 3498.<br />
2.08 Mortar<br />
A. Materials<br />
1. Cement shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.<br />
2. Aggregates<br />
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded; clean and free from organic<br />
materials.<br />
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.<br />
B. Mixes<br />
1. All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall have a<br />
FBC (Florida Building Code) product approval.<br />
2. Job proportioned mixed (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for<br />
“wind block” only.<br />
2.09 Eave Closure<br />
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.<br />
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.<br />
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.<br />
D. Mortar (color optional) on granular surface underlayments only.<br />
2.10 Coatings<br />
A. Paint &#8211; color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).<br />
B. Sealer &#8211; for point-up mortar (optional).<br />
C. Tint Seal &#8211; color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).<br />
2.11 Sheathing &#8211; Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.<br />
NOTE: Refer to building code Wind Load requirements.<br />
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.<br />
PART III &#8211; EXECUTION<br />
3.01 Inspection<br />
A. Verify that surfaces to receive underlayments are uniform, smooth, clean and dry.<br />
B. Proper ventilation is recommended on all tile applications. Verify ventilation requirements as<br />
set forth in the building code.<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE 1: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with flashing cement and membrane where<br />
applicable.<br />
NOTE 2: Anchor sheet fastening shall be in accordance with Tables 1 to 5C<br />
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NOTE 3: Anchor sheet shall be in a minimum 2-plys in the valley.<br />
A. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic Cap Sheet (See Drawing 1)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated<br />
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood<br />
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fastener spaced according to tables 1 to<br />
5C near the top edge of felt. Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces.<br />
Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over<br />
installed anchor sheet, apply a layer of organic cap sheet in an application rate of 25 #/sq. ±<br />
15% mopping of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base<br />
sheet, allowing felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.<br />
DRAWING 1<br />
B. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43/90# Organic (See Drawing 1)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. The roof cover is<br />
terminated at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 base ply sheet shall be mechanically attached<br />
to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced according<br />
to anchor sheet fastening tables 1 to 5C near the top edge of felt. Extend anchor sheet a<br />
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchors sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and<br />
head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply a cap sheet according to<br />
underlayment/adhesive manufacturer recommendations. Cap sheet side laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.<br />
NOTE: For Cold Process Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap<br />
sheet laps at a of maximum 3’ on center.<br />
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3.03 Drip Edge Metal &#8211; choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 3.08 C.2.c)<br />
A. Edge metal shall be installed over the anchor sheet at all perimeters fastened 6” on center with<br />
12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails or other fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be<br />
lapped a minimum of 2”. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water<br />
shedding capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with<br />
asphaltic adhesive.<br />
or,<br />
B. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave over the finished cap sheet. The metal shall be<br />
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other fasteners. All joints<br />
shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal and underlayment sheet shall be joined with a<br />
bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The<br />
fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
3.04 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following: (See Drawings 2, 3 &amp; 4)<br />
NOTE: (See drawings 22, 23, 24) Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of<br />
drip edge a minimum of 1”. Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2”<br />
beyond drip edge.<br />
NOTE: Preformed valley metal shall be either a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a<br />
minimum 2 1/2” high center diverter or a ribbed design with 1” center diverter, a<br />
minimum four (4) 3/8” ribs spaced 3 1/2” with a 3 3/4” flange.<br />
A. Standard roll metal, 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the valley and shall be<br />
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails, or other fasteners of<br />
compatible metals placed near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall be lapped<br />
a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with<br />
asphaltic adhesive.<br />
or,<br />
DRAWING 2<br />
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DRAWING 3<br />
DRAWING 4<br />
B. Preformed metal without returns, 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the valley<br />
and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails, or other fasteners<br />
of compatible metals placed near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall be<br />
lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the<br />
metal with asphaltic adhesive.<br />
or,<br />
C. Preformed metal without returns 16” wide, shall be installed on top of cap sheet and placed in<br />
the valley and fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails, or other<br />
fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” and apply plastic<br />
cement between laps. The cap sheet shall be joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4”<br />
strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the<br />
flashing cement. An optional sweat sheet may be applied prior to the installation of the valley<br />
metal and cap sheet.<br />
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3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments &#8211; (Choose A or B)<br />
A. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on the anchor sheet and nail<br />
near the outside edges of metal. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps. Start<br />
at lower portion and work up to ensure water tightness. Nail 6” on center near the outside edge<br />
of the metal. The mineral surface cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic<br />
adhesive (See Drawings 5 &amp; 6).<br />
or,<br />
B. Install a 4” x 5” “L” flashing on the top ply and fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion<br />
resistant roof nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the metal.<br />
All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 4” and apply plastic cement between laps. The cap<br />
sheet shall be joined to the “L” flashing with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt<br />
saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement<br />
(See Drawings 7, 8, 9, 10).<br />
C. Seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with flashing cement and<br />
membrane where required.<br />
D. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of 3”.<br />
Nail metal near the outside edge of metal a minimum of 6” on center or set into reglets<br />
(secured properly) and thoroughly caulk. Lap joints minimum 3” and apply flashing cement<br />
between laps.<br />
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See 3.05 above)<br />
A. Install in compliance with regular flashing installation procedures.<br />
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, refer to skylight manufacturer’s installation<br />
instructions.<br />
DRAWING 5<br />
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DRAWING 6<br />
DRAWING 7<br />
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DRAWING 8<br />
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DRAWING 9<br />
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DRAWING 10<br />
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. (See Drawings 11, 12, 13, 14)<br />
A. Apply flashing cement around base of protrusion and on the bottom side of metal flanges<br />
sealing unit base flashing to anchor sheet.<br />
B. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing. Make certain base is flush to deck.<br />
NOTE 1: If pipes, vents and/or turbines are installed after finished cap sheet has been applied<br />
follow instructions in 3.07 A &amp; B, then the cap sheet and metal flange shall be joined<br />
with a bed of flashing cement and a strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric.<br />
The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
NOTE 2: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation<br />
instructions.<br />
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DRAWING 11<br />
DRAWING 12<br />
DRAWING 13<br />
DRAWING 14<br />
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3.08 Tile Installation<br />
A. Layout &#8211; Horizontal.<br />
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.<br />
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter, or other functional<br />
requirements.<br />
2. Chalk succeeding lines to accommodate a minimum 2” headlap unless restricted by<br />
product design.<br />
3. Increase headlap when necessary for equal course spacing.<br />
B. Layout &#8211; Vertical &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation &#8211; (Recommended for Flat/Low profile tile)<br />
a. Gable end &#8211; Choose one of the following.<br />
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting<br />
gable to accommodate rake tile.<br />
or,<br />
ii. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width from starting gable to<br />
accommodate flush finish.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
NOTE: Flush finish gable treatment can only be used when utilizing a single-ply peel and stick<br />
underlayment or a two-ply asphaltic adhesive underlayment system.<br />
b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.<br />
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
or,<br />
2. Straight bond tile installation &#8211; (Not recommended for Flat/Low profile tile))<br />
a. Gable end &#8211; Choose one of the following.<br />
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable to<br />
accommodate rake tile.<br />
or,<br />
ii. Chalk vertical line one full tile width from starting gable to accommodate flush<br />
finish.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.<br />
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
C. Tile Installation<br />
1. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.<br />
2. Eave treatment &#8211; Choose one of the following. (See Drawing 15, 16 &amp; 17).<br />
a. Metal Eave Closure &#8211; install closure strip along eave. Fasten a minimum of 18” on<br />
center. If metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center.<br />
or,<br />
b. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure &#8211; install closure strip along eave. Fasten with a<br />
minimum 3 fasteners per 36” strip<br />
or,<br />
c. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip<br />
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NOTE 1: The use of eave closure is required in a raised fascia system when using a medium or<br />
high profile tile.<br />
i. Install fascia board approximately 1 1/2” above roof deck or a nominal 2” x 2”<br />
starter strip at roof edge.<br />
Choose one of the following:<br />
ii. Install tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and /or starter strip to support metal<br />
flashing and ensure positive drainage when using drip edge.<br />
or,<br />
iii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive<br />
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Nail top edge of flange onto roof. Tapered cant<br />
strip is optional when using anti-ponding metal.<br />
iv. Apply underlayment as per Section 3.02.<br />
or,<br />
d. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure &#8211; (Applied per manufacturer’s<br />
specifications)<br />
e. Mortar Application &#8211; install mortar to elevate eave edge.<br />
i. Apply mortar along the eave edge, applying enough mortar to elevate the eave end<br />
of the tile to be on plane with the remaining roof tiles.<br />
ii. Point and smooth finish flush to eave line.<br />
iii. A minimum 3/8” weephole flush with the roof underlayment at the spacing of not<br />
less than one weephole per tile.<br />
DRAWING 15<br />
DRAWING 16<br />
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DRAWING 17<br />
3.09 Flat/Low, Medium and High<br />
NOTE: All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall have<br />
a FBC(Florida Building Code) product approval.<br />
NOTE: Mortar set tile shall be applied at an incline up to and including 6”:12”. For pitches<br />
above 6”:12” up to and including 7”:12” fasten every tile in the first course and every<br />
third tile in every fifth course in addition to mortar. For pitches above 7”:12” fasten<br />
every tile in addition to mortar. (For two piece barrel tile see Section 3.09.C.) Apply<br />
flashing cement to seal all fastener penetrations.<br />
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the<br />
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.<br />
Mortar quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with the<br />
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specific mortar manufacturer for amounts and specific resistance values. Values may be<br />
supplied through independent laboratory testing or field testing.<br />
A. Mortar Application: Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile (See Drawings 18, 19, &amp; 20)<br />
B. Install first course of tile, making certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first<br />
course.<br />
1. Set tile in a bed of mortar. Apply 10” minimum length trowel of mortar vertically under<br />
pan. For Flat/Low tile place mortar vertically adjacent to the overlock of the tile being<br />
installed. Do not apply mortar under headlug of tile, or onto the underlock of adjacent tile<br />
which may create a tilted or cocked tile.<br />
2. Use half starter/finisher tile when provided or cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile<br />
courses when using the staggered/cross bond method of installation.<br />
3. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal fashion when utilizing straight bond<br />
method.<br />
4. Lay succeeding course of field tile in same manner.<br />
5. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.<br />
DRAWING 18<br />
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DRAWING 19<br />
DRAWING 20<br />
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C. Mortar application. Two-Piece Barrel Tile (See Drawing 21)<br />
NOTE: For pitches above 6:12 up to and including 7:12, fasten every pan tile in the first course<br />
and every fifth course thereafter in addition to mortar. For pitches above 7:12 fasten<br />
every pan tile in addition to mortar.<br />
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the<br />
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.<br />
Mortar quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with the<br />
specific mortar manufacturer for amounts and specific resistance values. Values may be<br />
supplied through independent laboratory testing or field testing.<br />
1. Apply 10” trowel of mortar vertically over chalk line and under center of each pan with<br />
narrow end facing down roof.<br />
2. Place bed of mortar along inside edges of pans and set covers with wide end facing down<br />
roof.<br />
3. Point mortar to form acceptable straight-edge finish ensuring contact along edges.<br />
4. Lay succeeding courses of field tile in same manner.<br />
5. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.<br />
DRAWING 21<br />
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3.10 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: (See drawings 22 &amp; 23 ) Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip<br />
edge a minimum of 1”. Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond<br />
drip edge.<br />
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile at walls and valley flashings<br />
for proper positioning of cut field tiles.<br />
A. Standard Roll Valley (See Drawing 22)<br />
1. Closed Valley &#8211; Miter tile to meet at center of valley.<br />
2. Open Valley &#8211; Chalk a line minimum 2” on both sides valley center. Place bed of mortar<br />
along outside edge of chalk lines. Miter tile to form straight border and point to match<br />
tile surface.<br />
3. Valley with trim tile &#8211; Chalk a line down center of valley. Cut/break field tile near center<br />
line. Set trim tile in a continuous bed of mortar on tile surface, lapping tile a minimum of<br />
1”. Valleys shall remain unobstructed. Point mortar to finish. Ensure weep hole at end of<br />
valley.<br />
or,<br />
B. Preformed Metal Without Returns<br />
1. Closed Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter<br />
(See Drawing 23).<br />
2. Open Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of two water diverters (See<br />
Drawing 24).<br />
3.11 Hip Starter &#8211; choose one of the following:<br />
A. Prefabricated hip starter<br />
or,<br />
B. Use standard hip tiles as starter.<br />
1. Miter tile to match eave lines.<br />
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation – Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.<br />
DRAWING 22<br />
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DRAWING 23<br />
DRAWING 24<br />
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards – Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.<br />
3.14 Rake/Gable &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
A. Rake/Gable Tile<br />
1. Install first rake tile to expose length of first course of field tile with factory finish of rake<br />
tile towards the eave.<br />
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2. Fasten rake tile with a minimum two 10D nails and/or of sufficient length to penetrate the<br />
framing a minimum of 3/4”.<br />
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant<br />
headlap.<br />
or,<br />
B. Mortar Finish<br />
3.15 Wall Abutments<br />
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls. Point-up mortar is optional.<br />
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile at wall flashing for proper<br />
positioning of cut field tiles. For tiles installed at headwalls, tile shall be installed with<br />
roof tile adhesive.<br />
3.16 Plumbing Stacks<br />
A. Cut tile to fit close to plumbing stack, fill void with mortar and point to finish.<br />
3.17 Coatings &#8211; (Optional)<br />
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.<br />
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashings.<br />
C. Tint Seal &#8211; color coordinated sealer for staining tile, mortar or accessories.<br />
3.18 Tile Replacement<br />
A. Damaged Tile<br />
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair<br />
underlayment if necessary.<br />
2. Apply roof tile adhesive per adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.<br />
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.<br />
B. Small Valley and Hip Cuts<br />
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive<br />
manufacturer’s recommendations.<br />
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position which assures proper contact.<br />
3.19 Clean-Up<br />
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.<br />
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations<br />
Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind on finished<br />
roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.<br />
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FRSA &amp; TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES<br />
System Four<br />
Adhesive &#8211; Set Tile Guidelines<br />
System “A”<br />
Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed<br />
metal flashings with edge returns. Tiles are applied over the<br />
underlayment with adhesive to the deck with or without<br />
horizontal battens.<br />
Or,<br />
System “B”<br />
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings.<br />
Tiles are applied with adhesive direct to waterproofed deck.<br />
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):<br />
These adhesive-set tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint task force of the<br />
Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Association (FRSA) and the Florida Chapter of<br />
the Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these recommendations are neither<br />
warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by which an adhesive set tile<br />
system can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the designer, applicator or developer good<br />
roofing practice and some of the industry standards for the installation of the adhesive set tiles which<br />
have been developed over a period of time from actual trade practice and the requirements of various<br />
building code agencies. These guidelines may not be applicable in all geographical areas. It is the<br />
responsibility of those individuals who are referring to these guidelines to independently<br />
research and determine which is best for their particular project.<br />
Adhesive &#8211; Set Tile Guidelines<br />
DIVISION 7<br />
These recommendations cover Flat/Low, Medium, High and Two Piece Barrel Profile Roof Tile, using a<br />
2” and 3” tile headlap or a design limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance<br />
with wind load requirements.<br />
07300 &#8211; Shingles and Roofing Tiles<br />
07320 &#8211; Roofing Tiles<br />
- Mechanically Fastened Tile Recommendations<br />
- Adhesive &#8211; Set Tile Recommendations<br />
PART I &#8211; GENERAL<br />
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere<br />
A. Rough Carpentry &#8211; Section 06100<br />
B. Roof and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07220.<br />
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation &#8211; Section 07600.<br />
D. Roof Accessories &#8211; Section 07700.<br />
1.02 Quality Assurance<br />
A. Products<br />
1. Concrete Roof Tile &#8211; In compliance with ASTM C 1492.<br />
2. Clay Roof Tile &#8211; In compliance with ASTM C 1167.<br />
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:<br />
1. ICC-SSTD-11<br />
Or,<br />
2. TAS 101<br />
1.03 Submittals<br />
A. Samples &#8211; tile type and color as selected.<br />
B. Manufacturer’s literature &#8211; including product descriptions and recommended installation<br />
procedures.<br />
C. Tile Compliance Report.<br />
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling<br />
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.<br />
B. When stacking tile on roof top prior to installation, install battens under nose of tile stacks<br />
when required.<br />
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.<br />
1.05 Job Conditions<br />
A. Do not install underlayment or tiles on wet surfaces.<br />
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and<br />
their responsibility for protection of tile during and upon loading and stacking completion.<br />
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of<br />
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.<br />
1.06 Warranty<br />
A. Materials &#8211; refer to specific manufacturer’s limited warranty.<br />
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PART II &#8211; PRODUCTS<br />
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish<br />
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products<br />
section of this manual reflect that process.<br />
2.01 Roof tile<br />
A. Tile Manufacturer:_________________________________________________________________<br />
B. Tile Type:_________________________________________________________________________<br />
C. Approximate Weight:_______________________________________________________________<br />
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments<br />
A. Organic, type II, Commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type<br />
II organic saturated.<br />
B. Asphalt -Saturated and Coated Base Sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43 #, per roll,<br />
conforming to ASTM D 2626.<br />
C. Mineral surface roll roofing &#8211; Type 1,minimum 74 # per 100 sq. ft., commonly called 90 #,<br />
conforming to ASTM D 6380.<br />
D. Modified bitumen single ply membrane, minimum 40 mils.<br />
E. Self -adhered membrane, minimum 40 mils.<br />
F. Granular surface SBS modified bitumen membrane, minimum 40 mils at the selvage edge.<br />
2.03 Membranes<br />
A. Organic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
B. Inorganic &#8211; Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.<br />
2.04 Fasteners<br />
A. Tile Fasteners<br />
1. Nails &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal<br />
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or<br />
through thickness of the deck or batten, whichever is less.<br />
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches long,<br />
0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per inch).<br />
b. Smooth or screw shank nails be 10d corrosion resistant steel (3 inches long, 0.28 inch<br />
flat head diameter, 0.128 inch screw or 0.131 inch smooth shank diameter).<br />
2. Screw Fasteners &#8211; corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion<br />
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117). Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length penetrate<br />
a minimum 3/4” into the deck or batten, whichever is less.<br />
B. Underlayment Fasteners<br />
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through<br />
thickness of deck.<br />
a. Minimum #1 gauge.<br />
2. Tin tags &#8211; not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge<br />
steel sheet metal.<br />
2.05 Metal Flashing<br />
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal &#8211; conforming to ASTM A<br />
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building<br />
code.<br />
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements<br />
follow Lead Association recommendation.<br />
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2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive<br />
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,<br />
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.<br />
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 3019, type II.<br />
C. Asphalt &#8211; conforming to ASTM D 312, type III and IV (Note slope requirements in the<br />
building code).<br />
2.07 Roof Tile Adhesive &#8211; Conforming to section 2.09 below.<br />
A. One Component<br />
B. Two Component<br />
2.08 Mortar (When Used For Trim Tiles Or As Eave Closure Only)<br />
A. Materials<br />
1. Cements shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.<br />
2. Aggregates<br />
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded, clean and free from organic<br />
materials.<br />
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.<br />
B. Mixes<br />
1. All mortar used to fasten hips and ridges shall, in addition to having a FBC product<br />
approval, be tested in accordance with ICC-SSTD-11 with data substantiating compliance.<br />
2. Job proportioned mixes (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for<br />
“wind block” only.<br />
2.09 Polyurethane adhesives<br />
A. Polyurethane adhesive conforming to the following specifications.<br />
1. Density conforming to ASTM D 1622.<br />
2. Compressive strength conforming to ASTM D 1621.<br />
3. Tensile strength conforming to ASTM D 1623.<br />
4. Water absorption conforming to ASTM D 2842.<br />
5. Moisture vapor transmission conforming to ASTM E 96.<br />
6. Dimensional stability conforming to ASTM D 2126.<br />
7. Closed cell content conforming to ASTM D 2856.<br />
8. Surface burning characteristics conforming to ASTM E 84.<br />
9. Fire tests of roof coverings conforming to ASTM E 108.<br />
2.10 Eave Closure<br />
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.<br />
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.<br />
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.<br />
D. Mortar (color optional) on granular surface underlayments only.<br />
2.11 Coating<br />
A. Paint &#8211; color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).<br />
B. Sealer &#8211; for point-up mortar (optional).<br />
C. Tint Seal &#8211; color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).<br />
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2.12 Sheathing &#8211; Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.<br />
NOTE: Refer to building code wind load requirements.<br />
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.<br />
B. Battens &#8211; material to be decay resistant.<br />
1. Battens shall not be bowed or twisted.<br />
2. Horizontal battens should be a nominal 1” x 2”.<br />
C. Nailer Boards &#8211; material to be decay resistant.<br />
1. Nailer boards shall not be bowed or twisted.<br />
2. Nailer boards shall be a nominal 2 inches x (sufficient height to satisfy conditions).<br />
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System Four<br />
Adhesive-Set Tile Guidelines<br />
Underlayment Option “A”<br />
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.<br />
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:<br />
Slope<br />
of<br />
Roof<br />
4” : 12” and<br />
greater<br />
4” : 12” and<br />
greater<br />
4” : 12” and<br />
greater<br />
4” : 12” and<br />
greater<br />
4” : 12” and<br />
greater<br />
As tested<br />
Battens<br />
or Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Either<br />
Either<br />
Either<br />
Either<br />
Either<br />
Either<br />
Choice of Underlayments<br />
1. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or<br />
Modified Cap Sheet<br />
2. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43 /<br />
90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
3. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43<br />
/ 90# Organic or or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
4. Self-Adhered Underlayment -Applied<br />
Direct to Wood Deck<br />
5. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
6. Alternative Membranes<br />
Plastic or Compatible<br />
Cement at<br />
Penetrating<br />
Underlayments<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Not Required<br />
Reference<br />
3.02A<br />
3.02B<br />
3.02C<br />
3.02D<br />
3.02E<br />
3.02F<br />
NOTE: All applications above must use preformed flashings with metal edge returns and a 3”<br />
tile headlap unless restricted or dictated by product design.<br />
NOTE: Not all tiles are designed to be engaged over battens. Check with roof tile<br />
manufacturer.<br />
System #4 &#8211; Option “A”<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with compatible flashing cement and membrane<br />
where applicable.<br />
NOTE: Anchor sheet fastening shall be in accordance with Tables 1 to 5C.<br />
NOTE: Anchor sheet shall be a minimum 2-plys in the valley.<br />
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment<br />
with this system (except on 3.02 D).<br />
A. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing A-1)<br />
A 90# organic cap sheet or modified cap sheet underlayment application can be installed with<br />
tiles applied direct to the cap sheet. Prior to applying the 90# or modified cap sheet, attach a<br />
36” wide strip of same underlayment, (sweat sheet) down the center of the valley. Secure near<br />
the edge of the felt 24” on center. Apply a 90# or modified cap sheet perpendicular to the slope<br />
of the roof and mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails<br />
or other fasteners according to the Anchor Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C near the top edge<br />
of felt. Use a minimum 4” head lap and 6” side laps. Extend anchor sheet up vertical surfaces<br />
a minimum 4”. Overlap hip and ridges a minimum of 6”. Secure near the edge of felt 12” on<br />
center at overlaps and side laps of the underlayment.<br />
DRAWING A-1<br />
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B. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing A-2)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated<br />
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood<br />
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor<br />
Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C near the top edge of felt. Extend anchor sheet a minimum of<br />
4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall<br />
be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply a layer of organic cap sheet with an<br />
application rate of 25 #/sq. ± 15% mopping of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may<br />
come in contact with the base sheet, allowing felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum<br />
of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.<br />
C. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing<br />
A-2)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. A No.30 or No.43<br />
anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round<br />
cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C.<br />
Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply a<br />
cap sheet in a continuous layer of cold process adhesive at the rate of 1.5 gal/sq. or according<br />
to underlayment/adhesive manufacturers’ recommendation. Cap sheet side laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.<br />
NOTE: For Cold Process Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap<br />
sheet at a maximum of 3 feet on center.<br />
DRAWING A-2<br />
System #4 Option “A” 74<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
D. Self-Adhered Underlayment &#8211; Applied Direct to Wood Deck.<br />
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of<br />
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’<br />
recommendations.<br />
E. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. No.30 felt shall be<br />
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other<br />
fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C. Extend anchor sheet a<br />
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head<br />
laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply one layer of self-adhered<br />
underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’<br />
recommendation.<br />
F. Alternative Membranes<br />
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to<br />
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building<br />
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function<br />
in combination with a prepared roof covering.<br />
3.03 Drip Edge Metal &#8211; Choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 4.02 B.3).<br />
A. Single ply underlayment systems<br />
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave, over the sheathing. The metal shall be<br />
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of<br />
compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal shall be coated<br />
with a bed of flashing cement.<br />
2. Apply underlayments as per section 3.02 A or B for single ply underlayments.<br />
or,<br />
B. 2-ply underlayment systems<br />
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed over anchor sheet, fastened 6” on center with 12 ga.<br />
corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped<br />
a minimum of 2”.<br />
2. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water shedding capabilities<br />
of all metal laps.<br />
3. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive.<br />
3.04 Gable treatment -Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: For two-ply underlayment systems see section 3.03 B.<br />
A. Underlayment wrapped gable &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: Not Recommended for flush finish. Rake tiles must be installed.<br />
1. Extend underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down onto fascia or barge board.<br />
Secure with nails and tin tags, round cap nails or other fasteners 6” on center.<br />
or,<br />
2. Trim underlayment at fascia or barge board. Install a peel and stick underlayment<br />
extending underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down and seal onto fascia or barge<br />
board.<br />
or,<br />
B. Metal Finish<br />
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the gable, over the finished underlayment. The metal<br />
shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of<br />
compatible metals. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, insuring water<br />
shedding capabilities of all metal laps.<br />
System #4 Option “A” 75<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
3.05 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: (See drawing 4.05, 4.06, 4.07) Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange<br />
of drip edge a minimum of 1”. Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2”<br />
beyond drip edge.<br />
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the valley<br />
metal.<br />
NOTE: Install preformed closed valley minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a minimum<br />
2 1/2” high center diverter and 1” edge returns or a ribbed design with 1” center diverter,<br />
a minimum of four (4) 3/8” ribs spaced 3 1/2” with 3 3/4” flange.<br />
A. Install preformed closed valley. Lap all joints a minimum of 6” and apply a coating or<br />
separator sheet for corrosion resistance (See Drawing A-3)<br />
or,<br />
B. Install preformed open valley with a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch-out) with a minimum<br />
1” high twin center diverter and minimum 1” metal edge returns. Lap joints a minimum 6”<br />
and apply a coating or separator sheet for corrosion resistance (See Drawing A- 4).<br />
For A or B:<br />
1. When using valley metal with returns, secure with clips fabricated from similar or<br />
compatible material. Clip 1” metal edge returns to either deck or batten strip with roofing<br />
nail through metal strap.<br />
2. Trim metal at all valley/ridge junctions, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the<br />
valley.<br />
3. Install lead soaker at all valley/ridge junctions. Turn lead up a minimum of 1” to create a<br />
water diverter, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the valley.<br />
DRAWING A-3 DRAWING A-4<br />
3.06 Valley or Wall Flashings Termination onto Roof Plane<br />
A. When valley or wall flashing terminates onto roof plane install in accordance with valley<br />
flashing procedures in section 3.05 and/or 3.07 respectively.<br />
1. Apply a lead soaker/skirt underneath the eave end of valley or wall flashing to carry water<br />
off the valley/wall flashing back onto the field tile (See Drawing A-5).<br />
2. If lead skirt is not used, extend length of valley metal to carry water off the valley back<br />
onto the field tile.<br />
System #4 Option “A” 76<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING A-5<br />
3.07 Flashing and Counter Flashings at all Abutments (See Drawing A-6)<br />
A. Install preformed metal wall tray 5” vertical flange, 6” base flange with 1” metal edge return<br />
flush to base of walls over underlayment. Start at lower portion and work up to ensure<br />
watertight application.<br />
B. Secure with clips fabricated from compatible material 24” on center. Clip 1” metal edge<br />
return to deck or batten strip with roofing nail through a metal strap.<br />
C. Nail vertical metal flange near outside edge. Secure as necessary to meet job conditions. Lap<br />
joints a minimum of 4” and apply flashing cement for corrosion resistance.<br />
D. On block walls, seal along entire edge of vertical metal flange, covering all nail penetrations<br />
with flashing cement and membrane.<br />
E. On frame walls, install vapor barrier over flashing.<br />
F. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of 4”.<br />
Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set metal into reglets and seal<br />
thoroughly. Lap joints a minimum of 3” and apply flashing cement or sealant between the<br />
laps.<br />
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the valley<br />
metal and/or pan flashing.<br />
System #4 Option “A” 77<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING A-6<br />
3.08 Head &amp; Apron Flashing (See Drawings A-7, A-8 &amp;A-9)<br />
A. Install apron flashing a minimum 4” on tile surface. Nail vertical flange of flashing within 1”<br />
of metal edge and secure as necessary. Lap metal 6”. Seal laps with flashing cement.<br />
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See Drawing A-10)<br />
A. Curbs shall be a minimun 2” x 6”, and a minimum of 1-1/2” above the tile height.<br />
B. Install a minimum 12” width lead at eave end of each curb.<br />
C. Secure with fasteners 6” on center, insuring nails will be covered by skylight/hood vent flange.<br />
D. Continue with flexible or rigid flashing on both sides of the curb working up toward ridge.<br />
Trim as necessary to ensure water shedding onto field tile.<br />
E. Secure with roofing fasteners 6” on center.<br />
F. Install flexible or rigid flashing on ridge end of curb.<br />
G. Seal all nail penetrations, at skylight or hood vent joints with sealant.<br />
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights refer to skylight manufacturer’s instructions.<br />
System #4 Option “A” 78<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING A-7<br />
DRAWING A-8<br />
System #4 Option “A” 79<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING A-9<br />
DRAWING A-10<br />
System #4 Option “A” 80<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc.<br />
A. Top Flashing on Tile (See Drawings A-11, A-12 &amp; A-13).<br />
1. Seal around penetration with flashing cement.<br />
2. Apply skirt flashing over last field tile cut previously installed extending under the course<br />
of tile above penetration. Insure flashing is of sufficient width to redirect the water away<br />
from the penetration.<br />
3. Seal flashing to tile with sealants as needed<br />
NOTE: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation<br />
instructions.<br />
DRAWING A-11<br />
DRAWING A-12<br />
System #4 Option “A” 81<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING A-13<br />
3.11 Batten Installation (See Drawing A-14)<br />
NOTE: Horizontal battens shall be a minimum of 4’ in length. When utilizing battens,<br />
preformed metal flashing with metal edge returns must be used in addition to a 3” tile<br />
head lap (unless restricted by product design). Battens are not allowed below a 4”:12”<br />
slopes and are optional for slopes 4”:12” and above.<br />
A. Install top edge of horizontal batten to horizontal line. Horizontal battens may be a minimum<br />
nominal 1”x 2”.<br />
B. Fasten and secure maximum 24” on center with nails or screws of sufficient length to penetrate<br />
the sheathing a minimum of 3/4”.<br />
C. Leave 1/2” space between batten ends and between batten and metal edge return.<br />
DRAWING A-14<br />
System #4 Option “A” 82<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
System #4 Option “B” 83<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
System Four<br />
Adhesive-Set Tile Guidelines<br />
Underlayment Option “B”<br />
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.<br />
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:<br />
Slope<br />
of<br />
Roof<br />
2”: 12” and<br />
greater<br />
2”: 12” and<br />
greater<br />
2”: 12” and<br />
greater<br />
2”: 12” and<br />
greater<br />
As tested<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Direct<br />
Deck<br />
Choice of Underlayments<br />
1. Hot Mop No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or<br />
Modified Cap Sheet<br />
2. Cold Process No.30 or No.43/90#<br />
Organic or Modified Cap Sheet<br />
3. Self-Adhered Underlayment &#8211; Applied<br />
Direct to Wood Deck<br />
4. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
5. Alternative Membranes<br />
Plastic or Compatible<br />
Cement at Fasteners<br />
Penetrating<br />
Underlayments<br />
Required<br />
Required<br />
See note below<br />
See note below<br />
See note below<br />
Reference<br />
3.02A<br />
3.02B<br />
3.02C<br />
3.02D<br />
3.02E<br />
NOTE: Refer to underlayment manufacturer’s recommendations.<br />
System #4 &#8211; Option “B”<br />
3.02 Underlayment Application &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with compatible flashing cement and membrane<br />
where applicable.<br />
NOTE: Anchor sheet fastening shall be in accordance with Anchor Sheets Fastening Tables 1<br />
to 5C.<br />
NOTE: Anchor sheet shall be a minimum 2-plys in the valley.<br />
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment<br />
with this system (except on 3.02 C).<br />
A. Hot Mop Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing B-1)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated<br />
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood<br />
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor<br />
Sheets Fastening Tables 1 to 5C. Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces.<br />
Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over<br />
installed anchor sheet, apply the cap sheet with an application rate of 25 #/sq. ± 15% mopping<br />
of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base sheet, allowing<br />
felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and<br />
back nailed 12” on center.<br />
B. Cold Process Application &#8211; No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing B-1)<br />
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. A No.30 or No.43<br />
anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round<br />
cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheets Fastening Tables 1 to 5C.<br />
Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchors sheet side laps shall be a<br />
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply<br />
the cap sheet in a continuous layer of cold process adhesive at the rate of 1.5 gal/sq. or<br />
according to underlayment/adhesive manufacturers recommendation. Cap sheet side laps<br />
shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.<br />
NOTE: For Cold Process Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap<br />
sheet at laps at a maximum of 3’ on center.<br />
C. Self-Adhered Underlayment &#8211; Applied Direct to Wood Deck.<br />
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of<br />
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’<br />
recommendations.<br />
D. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment<br />
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. No.30 felt shall be<br />
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other<br />
fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheets Fastening Tables 1 to 5C. Extend anchor sheet a<br />
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head<br />
laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply one layer of a self-adhered<br />
underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’<br />
recommendation.<br />
E. Alternative Membranes<br />
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to<br />
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building<br />
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function<br />
in combination with a prepared roof covering.<br />
System #4 Option “B” 84<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
3.03 Eave Drip Metal &#8211; Choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 4.02 B.3).<br />
A. Drip edge metal shall be installed over anchor sheet, fastened 6” on center with 12 ga.<br />
corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a<br />
minimum of 2”. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water shedding<br />
capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic<br />
adhesive.<br />
DRAWING B-1<br />
or,<br />
B. Drip edge metal shall be installed at eave over the finished cap sheet. The metal shall be<br />
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners of compatible<br />
metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal and underlayment shall be<br />
joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass<br />
fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
3.04 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following: (See Drawings B-2, B-3, B-4)<br />
NOTE: Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip edge a minimum of 1”.<br />
Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond drip edge.<br />
System #4 Option “B” 85<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
NOTE: Preformed valley metal shall be either a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a<br />
minimum 2 1/2” high center diverter or a ribbed design with 1” center diverter, a<br />
minimum four (4) 3/8” bibs spaced 3 1/2” with a 3 3/4” flange.<br />
A. Two Ply System &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Standard Roll Metal &#8211; minimum width of 16”, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the<br />
valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails,<br />
or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All<br />
joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall<br />
be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawing B-5).<br />
or,<br />
2. Preformed metal without returns &#8211; minimum 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor<br />
sheet in the valley and shall fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant<br />
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley<br />
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap<br />
sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawings B-6).<br />
B. Over Cap Sheet &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Standard Roll Metal &#8211; minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the cap sheet in the valley<br />
and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other<br />
fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall<br />
be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be joined<br />
with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric.<br />
The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
or,<br />
2. Preformed Metal Without Returns -minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the anchor<br />
sheet in the valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant<br />
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley<br />
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap<br />
sheet shall be joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated<br />
cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.<br />
DRAWING B-2<br />
System #4 Option “B” 86<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING B-3<br />
DRAWING B-4<br />
System #4 Option “B” 87<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashing at Wall Abutments &#8211; choose one of the following:<br />
A. Two Ply System<br />
1. Install 4”x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on the anchor sheet.<br />
2. Fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant nails or other fasteners of compatible<br />
metals near the outside edges of metal.<br />
3. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps.<br />
4. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive. (See Drawings B-6,<br />
B-9 &amp; B-10).<br />
or,<br />
B. Over Cap Sheet<br />
1. Install 4”x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on top of cap sheet.<br />
2. Fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant nails or other fasteners of compatible<br />
metals near the outside edges of metal.<br />
3. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps.<br />
4. Cap sheet shall be joined to the “L” flashing with flashing cement and a minimum 4” strip<br />
of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the<br />
flashing cement. ( See Drawing B-7 &amp; B-8).<br />
C. Seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with flashing cement and<br />
membrane where required.<br />
D. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing minimum 4”. Nail<br />
metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set into reglets (secure properly)<br />
and thoroughly caulk. Lap joints minimum 3” and apply flashing cement between laps.<br />
DRAWING B-5<br />
System #4 Option “B” 88<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING B-6<br />
DRAWING B-7<br />
System #4 Option “B” 89<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING B-8<br />
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. ( See 3.05 above)<br />
A. Install in compliance with regular flashing installation procedures.<br />
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, refer to skylight manufacturer’s installation<br />
instructions.<br />
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
A. Two-Ply System ( See Drawings B-11, B-12, &amp; B-13).<br />
1. Apply flashing cement around base of protrusion and on the bottom side of the metal<br />
flanges sealing the unit base flashing to anchor sheet.<br />
2. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing. Make certain base is flush to deck.<br />
or,<br />
System #4 Option “B” 90<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
B. Over Cap Sheet (See Drawing B-14)<br />
1. Install unit base flashing over cap sheet.<br />
2. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing. Make certain base is flush to deck.<br />
3. Metal flange shall be joined to cap sheet with a bed of flashing cement and a strip of<br />
asphalt saturated cotton of fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embed in the flashing<br />
cement.<br />
C. Profile specific ventilators<br />
1. Shall be installed as per manufacturer’s installation instructions.<br />
DRAWING B-9<br />
System #4 Option “B” 91<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING B-10<br />
System #4 Option “B” 92<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING B-11<br />
DRAWING B-12<br />
DRAWING B-13<br />
DRAWING B-14<br />
System #4 Option “B” 93<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
PART IV &#8211; TILE APPLICATION<br />
4.01 Tile Layout<br />
NOTE: When utilizing a single-ply mechanical fastened underlayment or when utilizing<br />
battens, a 3” tile head lap must be used (unless restricted by product design).<br />
A. Layout &#8211; Horizontal (3” tile head laps or batten installation)<br />
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.<br />
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on the tile type, use of gutter, or other functional<br />
requirements.<br />
NOTE: For batten installation only, chalk line 1 1/2” from ridge.<br />
2. Chalk succeeding lines for a minimum 3” head lap unless restricted by product design.<br />
3. Increase head lap when necessary for equal course spacing.<br />
NOTE: When utilizing a single-ply peel and stick underlayment or a two-ply asphaltic adhesive<br />
underlayment system, a minimum 2” head lap may be used unless restricted or dictated<br />
by product design.<br />
or,<br />
B. Layout &#8211; Horizontal (for 2” head lap)<br />
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.<br />
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter, or other functional<br />
requirements.<br />
2. Chalk succeeding lines to accommodate a minimum 2” tile head lap unless restricted by<br />
product design.<br />
3. Increase head lap when necessary for equal course spacing.<br />
C. Layout &#8211; Vertical &#8211; choose one of the following:<br />
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation (Recommended for flat/low profile tile)<br />
a. Gable end roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting<br />
gable to accommodate rake tile.<br />
or,<br />
ii. Chalk vertical lines one full and one half tile width from starting gable to<br />
accommodate flush finish.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
NOTE: Flush finish gable treatment can only be used when utilizing a single-ply peel and stick<br />
underlayment or a two-ply asphaltic adhesive underlayment system.<br />
b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.<br />
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.<br />
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
or,<br />
2. Straight bond tile installation (Not recommended for flat tile)<br />
a. Gable end roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable.<br />
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
b. Hip roof<br />
i. Chalk vertical lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.<br />
System #4 Option “A” &amp; “B” 94<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
4.02 Tile Installation<br />
A. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.<br />
B. Eave treatment &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure &#8211; Install closure strip along eave. Fasten with a<br />
minimum 3 fasteners per 36” strip (See Drawing 4.01)<br />
or,<br />
2. Metal Eave Closure &#8211; Install closure strip along eave. Fasten a minimum 18” on center. If<br />
metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center (See Drawing 4.02)<br />
or,<br />
3. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip &#8211; When using a 3/4” raised fascia, a 2” x 2” wood starter<br />
strip must be installed behind fascia. The use of eave closure is required in a raised fascia<br />
system when using a medium or high profile tile.<br />
a. Install fascia board approximately 1 1/2” above roof deck or a 2” x 2” wood starter<br />
strip at roof edge (See Drawing 4.03). Choose one of the following:<br />
i. Install 8” tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and/or starter strip to support<br />
metal flashing and ensure positive drainage when using drip edge.<br />
or<br />
ii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive<br />
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Nail top edge of flange onto roof. Tapered cant<br />
strip is optional when using anti-ponding metal.<br />
b. Apply underlayment as per Underlayment System A or B Sections 3.02.<br />
4. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure. (Apply per manufacturer’s instructions.)<br />
5. Mortar Application &#8211; Install mortar to elevate eave edge of tile.<br />
a. Apply mortar along the eave edge, applying enough mortar to elevate the eave end of<br />
the tile to be on profile with the remaining roof tiles.<br />
b. Point and smooth finish flush to eave.<br />
c. Apply a minimum 3/8” weep hole flush with the underlayment at the spacing of not<br />
less than one weep hole per tile.<br />
DRAWING 4.01<br />
System #4 Option “A” &amp; “B” 95<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 4.02<br />
DRAWING 4.03<br />
4.03 Flat / Low, Medium and High Profile Tile<br />
NOTE: Adhesive set tile shall be applied at a pitch of 4”:12” and higher for mechanically<br />
attached single-ply underlayment systems (Underlayment Option “A” ), and at a slope<br />
of 2”:12” and higher for self-adhered peel and stick underlayment systems or two-ply<br />
asphaltic adhesive underlayment systems (Underlayment Option “B” ).<br />
NOTE: For slopes above 6”:12” up to and including 7”:12” fasten every tile in the first course<br />
and every third tile of the fifth course in addition to the tile adhesive. For slopes above<br />
7”:12” fasten every tile in addition to the tile adhesive. Apply compatible flashing<br />
cement to seal all fastener penetrations where required. When utilizing battens and tiles<br />
with batten lugs additional fastening is not required.<br />
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the<br />
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.<br />
System #4 Option “A” &amp; “B” 96<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Adhesive quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with<br />
specific adhesive manufacturer for installation instructions. Installations shall be based<br />
on tested methods as indicated in the compliance report, or product approval, listing the<br />
amounts, tested paddy placement and specific corresponding resistance values.<br />
A. Starting at the eave, install first course of tile according to the tile and adhesive manufacturer’s<br />
instructions. Make certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first course.<br />
B. Install and secure all succeeding field, perimeter and corner tile according to the adhesive<br />
manufacturer’s instructions.<br />
C. Cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile courses when using the staggered/cross bond<br />
method of installation.<br />
D. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal and/or vertical fashion when utilizing<br />
straight bond method.<br />
E. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge and valleys.<br />
4.04 Two Piece Barrel Tile (See Drawing 4.04)<br />
NOTE: For slopes above 6”:12” up to and including 7”:12” fasten every pan tile in the first<br />
course and every 5th course thereafter in addition to the tile adhesive. For slopes above<br />
7”:12” fasten every pan in addition to the tile adhesive. Apply compatible flashing<br />
cement to seal all fastener penetrations where required.<br />
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the<br />
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.<br />
Adhesive quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with<br />
specific adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Installations shall be based on tested<br />
methods as indicated in the compliance report, or product approval, listing the amounts,<br />
tested paddy placement and specific corresponding resistance values.<br />
A. Starting at the eaves, install first course of tile according to the tile and adhesive<br />
manufacturer’s instructions. Support of eaves pan tile if necessary, until the adhesive has a<br />
chance to cure. Make certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first course.<br />
B. Install and secure all succeeding field, perimeter and corner tile according to the adhesive<br />
manufacturer’s instructions.<br />
C. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge and valleys.<br />
DRAWING 4.04<br />
System #4 Option “A” &amp; “B” 97<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
4.05 Valleys &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
NOTE: It is not recommended to install trim tile in valleys. It may be necessary to remove the<br />
lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extended at walls and valley flashings for<br />
proper positioning of cut field tiles.<br />
A. Standard Roll Valley (See Drawing 4.05) Choose one of the following:<br />
1. Closed Valley &#8211; Miter tile to meet at the center of valley.<br />
or,<br />
2. Open Valley &#8211; Chalk a line minimum 2” on both sides of valley center. Place bed of mortar<br />
along outside of chalk lines. Miter tile to form straight border and point to match tile<br />
surface.<br />
or,<br />
B. Preformed Metals<br />
1. Closed Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter (See<br />
Drawing 4.06).<br />
2. Open Valley &#8211; Miter tile to form straight border on either side of two water diverters (See<br />
Drawing 4.07).<br />
DRAWING 4.05<br />
System #4 Option “A” &amp; “B” 98<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
DRAWING 4.06<br />
DRAWING 4.07<br />
4.06 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards – Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.<br />
4.07 Hip Starter &#8211; Refer to section on supplemental instructions for hip and ridge attachment.<br />
4.08 Hip and Ridge Installation &#8211; Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.<br />
4.09 Rake/Gable Tile &#8211; Choose one of the following:<br />
A. Rake/Gable Tile<br />
1. Install first rake tile to exposed length of first course of field tile with factory finish of rake<br />
tile towards the eave.<br />
System #4 Option “A” &amp; “B” 99<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
2. Fasten rake tile with minimum two 10D nails or screws of sufficient length to penetrate<br />
the framing a minimum of 3/4”.<br />
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant<br />
headlap.<br />
or<br />
B. Metal Finish<br />
1. Install prefabricated gable metal with 1” water return.<br />
2. Fasten by clipping 24” on center.<br />
NOTE: Rake tile application at finishing end may need special consideration to provide proper<br />
drainage, i.e. flashing or sealant may be needed.<br />
or<br />
C. Mortar Finish<br />
NOTE: Can be used with underlayment option “B” only.<br />
1. Place mortar bed along roof edge.<br />
2. Point smooth to a straight finish.<br />
4.10 Wall Abutments<br />
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls.<br />
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders at<br />
wall and valley flashing for proper positioning of cut field tiles and to facilitate water flow.<br />
4.11 Plumbing Stacks<br />
NOTE: For tile installations using Underlayment Option “A”, see Section 3.10 of that section<br />
for Plumbing Stack instructions. For tile installations using Underlayment Option “B”,<br />
see Section 3.07.<br />
A. Cut tile to fit close to plumbing stack.<br />
B. Fill void with mortar and point to finish.<br />
4.12 Coatings &#8211; (optional)<br />
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.<br />
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashing.<br />
4.13 Tile Replacement<br />
A. Damaged Tile<br />
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair<br />
underlayment if necessary.<br />
2. Apply adhesive per manufacturers instruction for replacement of broken tile.<br />
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.<br />
B. Small Valley and Hip Cuts<br />
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive<br />
manufacturer’s instructions.<br />
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position assuring proper contact.<br />
NOTE: For roof slopes above 7”:12’, on hip cuts only, mechanical fastening may be required.<br />
4.14 Clean-Up<br />
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.<br />
4.15 Miscellaneous recommendations<br />
A. Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind allowed<br />
on finished roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.<br />
System #4 Option “A” &amp; “B” 100<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Appendix 101<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
APPENDIX<br />
ANCHOR SHEET FASTENING TABLE INSTRUCTIONS<br />
CLASSIFICATION OF BUILDINGS AND OTHER STRUCTURES FOR<br />
IMPORTANT FACTORS<br />
EXPOSURE CATEGORIES<br />
BASIC WIND SPEED MAP<br />
TABLE 1, ALLOWABLE UPLIFT RESISTANCE FOR ANCHOR SHEET<br />
ATTACHMENT<br />
TABLES 2A THROUGH 3D REQUIRED DESIGN PRESSURE FOR<br />
UNDERLAYMENT AND HIP AND RIDGE TILE<br />
REQUIRED AERODYNAMIC UPLIFT MOMENT TABLES<br />
INSTRUCTIONS<br />
TABLES 4A THROUGH 5D REQUIRED AERODYNAMIC UPLIFT<br />
MOMENT TABLES<br />
TABLES 6 THROUGH 9 TILE ATTACHMENT RESISTANCE VALUES<br />
USING MECHANICAL FASTENERS<br />
TABLE 10 TILE ATTACHMENT RESISTANCE INSTRUCTIONS FOR<br />
ADHESIVE-SET, MORTAR SET AND PROPRIETARY MECHANICAL<br />
FASTENING SYSTEMS<br />
TABLE 11 HIP AND RIDGE SUPPORT MEMBER ATTACHMENT<br />
INSTRUCTIONS<br />
Anchor Sheet Fastening Table Instructions<br />
The mean roof height limitations for attaching an anchor sheet to a wood surface substrate are based on many<br />
variables. The nail spacing, type of nail, thickness of the sheathing, type of anchor sheet, and the pitch of the<br />
roof are the variables we took into account to determine the mean roof height limitations in Tables 1.<br />
Table 1<br />
Table 1 is to be used when utilizing a two-ply, hot or cold process, underlayment system or for systems where a<br />
cap sheet is bonded to an anchor sheet and applying roof tiles with an adhesive-set or mortar-set system. This<br />
table indicates the fastening pattern for the field, the underlayment laps, any back nailing requirements of the<br />
cap sheet for both smooth or deformed shank nails.<br />
Tables 2A through 2D and 3A through 3D<br />
Tables 2A through 2D are the required underlayment design pressures and required (conservative) hip and ridge<br />
design pressures based on Exposure B. Tables 3A through 3D are the required underlayment design pressures<br />
and required (conservative) hip and ridge design pressures based on Exposure C. (See the classification of<br />
buildings and other structures for importance factors on page 104 and Exposure Categories on page 105.)<br />
Instructions<br />
Step 1) Determine the required underlayment design pressure from Tables 2A through 3D based on<br />
the following parameters:<br />
a) Classification of Buildings and Other Structures for Importance Factors: Determine from<br />
the Classification of Buildings and Other Structures for Importance Factors and the<br />
Exposure Categories listed on page 104 and 105.<br />
b) Pitch of Roof: Acquire from job site.<br />
c) Mean Roof Height: Acquire from job site.<br />
d) Basic Wind Speed: Determine basic wind speed for your area from Basic Wind Speed<br />
Map on page 106 and be sure to check with the local building code, especially for areas<br />
where the boundary lines intersect a county.<br />
Example<br />
a) Exposure Category: B<br />
b) Building Category: II<br />
c) Importance Factor: 1.00<br />
d) Type and Pitch of Roof: Gable &#8211; 5:12<br />
e) Mean Roof Height: 20 feet<br />
f) Basic Wind Speed: 140 mph<br />
Based on the above mentioned parameters and Table 1, the required underlayment design pressure<br />
for the example above = 77.7 psf<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 102<br />
Step 2) Determine the appropriate fastening pattern required to meet or exceed the underlayment<br />
design pressures as determined in step 1 above. Refer to Table 1, the allowable uplift resistance<br />
values are determined by the following parameters:<br />
a) Determine the thickness of the sheathing (15/32” or 19/32”) from the job site.<br />
b) Determine the type of nail to be used on the job site (smooth or ring shank).<br />
c) Find the allowable uplift pressure from Table 1 that meets or exceeds the required design<br />
pressure as determined from step 1 above. The anchor sheet must be attached to the<br />
substrate according to the required fastening pattern determined above.<br />
Example:<br />
30 / 90 hot mop system<br />
19/32” plywood (5/8”) &#8211; Use 19/32” columns<br />
Ring Shank nails &#8211; use “Deformed” column under the 19/32” column<br />
Using the example in step 1 above, use a fastening pattern that meets or exceeds 77.7 psf.<br />
The minimum options are as follows:<br />
1) Two rows 6” on center in the field 6” at the laps and back nail the cap sheet 12” on center. This<br />
fastening pattern achieves 82.9 psf.<br />
or,<br />
2) Three rows 10” on center in the field 6” at the laps and back nail the cap sheet 12” on center.<br />
This fastening pattern achieves 78.3 psf.<br />
Either one of these fastening pattern options is an acceptable anchor sheet fastening pattern.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 103<br />
CLASSIFICATION OF BUILDINGS AND OTHER STRUCTURES FOR IMPORTANCE FACTORS<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 104<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 105<br />
Basic Wind Speed Map<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 106<br />
TABLE 1<br />
(For use with a two-ply underlayment system where a cap sheet is bonded to an anchor sheet)<br />
Note 1: For Mechanically Attached Single Ply Underlayment Systems Contact the Adhesive Manufacturer<br />
Two-Ply Underlayment Fastening Systems &#8211; (Two Rows in Field)<br />
Allowable Uplift Resistance<br />
Attachment Field Lap Backnail (psf)<br />
(inches o/c) (inches o/c) Cap Sheet 15/32 inch 19/32 inch<br />
(inches o/c) Smooth Deformed1 Smooth Deformed1<br />
12 6 12 41.6 47.4 52.7 60.0<br />
11 6 12 43.1 49.1 54.6 62.1<br />
Two rows staggered 10 6 12 44.9 51.0 56.8 64.6<br />
in the field, one row at 9 6 12 47.0 53.5 59.5 67.7<br />
the lap, and one row 8 6 12 49.6 56.5 62.9 71.5<br />
at the top edge of the 7 6 12 53.0 60.3 67.2 76.4<br />
cap sheet. 6 6 12 57.6 65.5 72.9 82.9<br />
5 6 12 63.9 72.7 81.0 92.0<br />
4 6 12 73.5 83.6 93.0 105.8<br />
3 6 12 89.3 101.6 113.2 128.6<br />
Two-Ply Underlayment Fastening Systems &#8211; (Three Rows in Field)<br />
Allowable Uplift Resistance<br />
Attachment Field Lap Backnail (psf)<br />
(inches o/c) (inches o/c) Cap Sheet 15/32 inch 19/32 inch<br />
(inches o/c) Smooth Deformed1 Smooth Deformed1<br />
12 6 12 49.6 56.5 62.9 71.5<br />
11 6 12 51.8 58.9 65.6 74.6<br />
Three rows staggered 10 6 12 54.4 61.9 68.9 78.3<br />
in the field, one row at 9 6 12 57.6 65.5 72.9 82.9<br />
the lap, and one row 8 6 12 61.5 70.0 78.0 88.6<br />
at the top edge of the 7 6 12 66.6 75.8 84.4 96.0<br />
cap sheet. 6 6 12 73.5 83.6 93.0 105.8<br />
5 6 12 83.0 94.4 105.1 119.5<br />
4 6 12 97.3 110.7 123.2 140.1<br />
3 6 12 121.1 137.8 153.4 174.4<br />
Two-Ply Underlayment Fastening Systems &#8211; (Four Rows in Field)<br />
Allowable Uplift Resistance<br />
Attachment Field Lap Backnail (psf)<br />
(inches o/c) (inches o/c) Cap Sheet 15/32 inch 19/32 inch<br />
(inches o/c) Smooth Deformed1 Smooth Deformed1<br />
12 6 12 58.6 66.6 74.2 84.3<br />
11 6 12 61.4 69.9 77.8 88.5<br />
Four rows staggered 10 6 12 64.9 73.9 82.2 93.5<br />
in the field, one row at 9 6 12 69.2 78.7 87.6 99.6<br />
the lap, and one row 8 6 12 74.4 84.7 94.3 107.2<br />
at the top edge of the 7 6 12 81.3 92.4 102.9 117.0<br />
cap sheet. 6 6 12 90.3 102.8 114.4 130.1<br />
5 6 12 103.0 117.2 130.5 148.4<br />
4 6 12 122.1 138.9 154.6 175.8<br />
3 6 12 153.9 175.1 194.9 221.6<br />
Note1: Deformed shank is inclusive of either a ring or screw shank nail.<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 only.<br />
ALLOWABLE UPLIFT RESISTANCE FOR ANCHOR SHEET ATTACHMENT<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 107<br />
Table 2A<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; ? &lt; = 6:12 )<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 &lt; ? &lt; = 6:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 32.1 39.6 43.7 48.0 57.1 61.9 67.0 77.7 83.3 89.2<br />
40 34.9 43.0 47.4 52.1 62.0 67.2 72.7 84.3 90.5 96.8<br />
50 37.2 45.9 50.6 55.5 66.0 71.7 77.5 89.9 96.4 103.2<br />
60 39.1 48.3 53.3 58.5 69.6 75.5 81.7 94.7 101.6 108.7<br />
0 &#8211; 30 36.9 45.6 50.3 55.2 65.6 71.2 77.0 89.3 95.8 102.6<br />
40 40.1 49.5 54.6 59.9 71.3 77.3 83.6 97.0 104.0 111.3<br />
50 42.7 52.7 58.2 63.8 76.0 82.4 89.1 103.4 110.9 118.7<br />
60 45.0 55.6 61.3 67.2 80.0 86.8 93.9 108.9 116.8 125.0<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Height (ft) above Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
ground level, z<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 108<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 21.0 25.9 28.6 31.4 37.3 40.5 43.8 50.8 54.5 58.3<br />
40 22.8 28.1 31.0 34.0 40.5 44.0 47.6 55.1 59.2 63.3<br />
50 24.3 30.0 33.1 36.3 43.2 46.9 50.7 58.8 63.1 67.5<br />
60 25.6 31.6 34.8 38.2 45.5 49.4 53.4 61.9 66.4 71.1<br />
0 &#8211; 30 24.1 29.8 32.9 36.1 42.9 46.6 50.4 58.4 62.7 67.1<br />
40 26.2 32.4 35.7 39.2 46.6 50.6 54.7 63.4 68.0 72.8<br />
50 27.9 34.5 38.0 41.7 49.7 53.9 58.3 67.6 72.5 77.6<br />
60 29.4 36.3 40.1 44.0 52.3 56.8 61.4 71.2 76.4 81.7<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; ? &lt; = 5½:12 )<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 2B<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 109<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 &lt; ? &lt; = 12:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 14.8 18.3 20.2 22.1 26.3 28.6 30.9 35.9 38.5 41.2<br />
40 16.1 19.9 21.9 24.0 28.6 31.0 33.6 38.9 41.8 44.7<br />
50 17.1 21.2 23.3 25.6 30.5 33.1 35.8 41.5 44.5 47.6<br />
60 18.1 22.3 24.6 27.0 32.1 34.8 37.7 43.7 46.9 50.2<br />
0 &#8211; 30 17.0 21.0 23.2 25.5 30.3 32.9 35.6 41.2 44.2 47.3<br />
40 18.5 22.8 25.2 27.6 32.9 35.7 38.6 44.8 48.0 51.4<br />
50 19.7 24.3 26.8 29.5 35.1 38.0 41.1 47.7 51.2 54.8<br />
60 20.8 25.6 28.3 31.0 36.9 40.1 43.3 50.3 53.9 57.7<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Table 2C<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 110<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 &lt; ? &lt; = 6¾:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 35.8 44.2 48.7 53.5 63.7 69.1 74.7 86.7 93.0 99.5<br />
40 38.9 48.0 52.9 58.1 69.1 75.0 81.1 94.1 100.9 108.0<br />
50 41.4 51.2 56.4 61.9 73.7 79.9 86.5 100.3 107.6 115.1<br />
60 43.7 53.9 59.4 65.2 77.6 84.2 91.1 105.6 113.3 121.3<br />
0 &#8211; 30 41.2 50.8 56.1 61.5 73.2 79.4 85.9 99.6 106.9 114.4<br />
40 44.7 55.2 60.9 66.8 79.5 86.2 93.3 108.2 116.1 124.2<br />
50 47.7 58.8 64.9 71.2 84.7 91.9 99.4 115.3 123.7 132.4<br />
60 50.2 62.0 68.3 75.0 89.2 96.8 104.7 121.5 130.3 139.4<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 2D<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 111<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; ?&lt; = 6:12 )<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 &lt; ?&lt; = 6:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 38.9 48.0 52.9 58.1 69.2 75.0 81.2 94.1 101.0 108.1<br />
20 41.3 51.0 56.3 61.7 73.5 79.7 86.2 100.0 107.3 114.8<br />
25 43.3 53.5 59.0 64.7 77.0 83.6 90.4 104.8 112.4 120.3<br />
30 45.0 55.6 61.3 67.2 80.0 86.8 93.9 108.9 116.8 125.0<br />
40 47.8 59.0 65.1 71.4 85.0 92.3 99.8 115.7 124.1 132.8<br />
50 50.1 61.9 68.2 74.9 89.1 96.7 104.6 121.3 130.1 139.2<br />
60 52.1 64.3 70.9 77.8 92.6 100.5 108.7 126.0 135.2 144.7<br />
0 &#8211; 15 44.7 55.2 60.9 66.8 79.5 86.3 93.3 108.3 116.1 124.3<br />
20 47.5 58.7 64.7 71.0 84.5 91.7 99.2 115.0 123.4 132.0<br />
25 49.8 61.5 67.8 74.4 88.6 96.1 103.9 120.5 129.3 138.4<br />
30 51.8 63.9 70.5 77.3 92.0 99.9 108.0 125.3 134.4 143.8<br />
40 55.0 67.9 74.9 82.2 97.8 106.1 114.7 133.1 142.8 152.8<br />
50 57.6 71.2 78.5 86.1 102.5 111.2 120.3 139.5 149.6 160.1<br />
60 59.9 73.9 81.5 89.5 106.5 115.5 125.0 144.9 155.5 166.4<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 3A<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 112<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; ?&lt; = 5½:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 25.4 31.4 34.6 38.0 45.2 49.1 53.1 61.5 66.0 70.7<br />
20 27.0 33.4 36.8 40.4 48.0 52.1 56.4 65.4 70.1 75.1<br />
25 28.3 35.0 38.6 42.3 50.4 54.6 59.1 68.5 73.5 78.7<br />
30 29.4 36.3 40.1 44.0 52.3 56.8 61.4 71.2 76.4 81.8<br />
40 31.3 38.6 42.6 46.7 55.6 60.3 65.2 75.7 81.2 86.9<br />
50 32.8 40.5 44.6 49.0 58.3 63.2 68.4 79.3 85.1 91.0<br />
60 34.1 42.0 46.4 50.9 60.5 65.7 71.1 82.4 88.4 94.6<br />
0 &#8211; 15 29.3 36.1 39.8 43.7 52.0 56.4 61.0 70.8 75.9 81.3<br />
20 31.1 38.4 42.3 46.4 55.2 59.9 64.8 75.2 80.7 86.3<br />
25 32.6 40.2 44.3 48.7 57.9 62.8 68.0 78.8 84.5 90.5<br />
30 33.8 41.8 46.1 50.6 60.2 65.3 70.6 81.9 87.9 94.0<br />
40 36.0 44.4 48.9 53.7 63.9 69.4 75.0 87.0 93.3 99.9<br />
50 37.7 46.5 51.3 56.3 67.0 72.7 78.6 91.2 97.8 104.7<br />
60 39.2 48.4 53.3 58.5 69.6 75.5 81.7 94.8 101.7 108.8<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Table 3B<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 113<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 &lt; ? &lt; = 12:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 18.0 22.2 24.4 26.8 31.9 34.6 37.5 43.4 46.6 49.9<br />
20 19.1 23.6 26.0 28.5 33.9 36.8 39.8 46.2 49.5 53.0<br />
25 20.0 24.7 27.2 29.9 35.5 36.6 41.7 48.4 51.9 55.5<br />
30 20.8 25.6 28.3 31.0 36.9 40.1 43.3 50.3 53.9 57.7<br />
40 22.1 27.2 30.0 33.0 39.2 42.6 46.1 53.4 57.3 61.3<br />
50 23.1 28.6 31.5 34.6 41.1 44.6 48.3 56.0 60.0 64.3<br />
60 24.0 29.7 32.7 35.9 42.7 46.4 50.2 58.2 62.4 66.8<br />
0 &#8211; 15 20.6 25.5 28.1 30.8 36.7 39.8 43.1 50.0 53.6 57.4<br />
20 21.9 27.1 29.9 32.8 39.0 42.3 45.8 53.1 56.9 60.9<br />
25 23.0 28.4 31.1 34.3 40.9 44.4 48.0 55.6 59.7 63.9<br />
30 23.9 29.5 32.5 35.7 42.5 46.1 49.8 57.8 62.0 66.4<br />
40 25.4 31.3 34.5 37.9 45.1 49.0 53.0 61.4 65.9 70.5<br />
50 26.6 32.8 36.2 39.7 47.3 51.3 55.5 64.4 69.1 73.9<br />
60 27.6 34.1 37.6 41.3 49.1 53.3 57.7 66.9 71.8 76.8<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Table 3C<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 114<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 &amp; 4 Only<br />
and<br />
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures<br />
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 &lt; ? &lt; = 6¾:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 43.4 53.6 59.1 64.8 77.1 83.7 90.5 105.0 112.6 120.5<br />
20 46.1 56.9 62.7 68.9 82.0 88.9 96.2 111.5 119.7 128.1<br />
25 48.3 59.6 65.8 72.2 85.9 93.2 100.8 116.9 125.4 134.2<br />
30 50.2 62.0 68.3 75.0 89.3 96.9 104.8 121.5 130.3 139.5<br />
40 53.3 65.9 72.6 79.7 94.8 102.9 111.3 129.1 138.5 148.2<br />
50 55.9 69.0 76.1 83.5 99.4 107.8 116.6 135.3 145.1 155.3<br />
60 58.1 71.7 79.1 86.8 103.3 112.1 121.2 140.6 150.8 161.4<br />
0 &#8211; 15 49.9 61.6 67.9 74.5 88.7 96.3 104.1 120.7 129.5 138.6<br />
20 53.0 65.4 72.2 79.2 94.2 102.3 110.6 128.3 137.6 147.3<br />
25 55.6 68.6 75.6 83.0 98.8 107.2 115.9 134.5 144.2 154.3<br />
30 57.7 71.3 78.6 86.3 102.6 111.4 120.5 139.7 149.9 160.4<br />
40 61.3 75.7 83.5 91.6 109.1 118.3 128.0 148.4 159.2 170.4<br />
50 64.3 79.4 87.5 96.0 114.3 124.0 134.1 155.6 166.9 178.6<br />
60 66.8 82.5 90.9 99.8 118.8 128.9 139.4 161.7 173.4 185.6<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Note5:<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Table 3D<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 115<br />
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches<br />
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the<br />
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.<br />
The required aerodynamic uplift moment values for determining the attachment of clay and concrete tiles are<br />
based on many variables. The building category, importance factor, building exposure, basic wind speed, slope<br />
of roof, and a generic tile dimension (tile factor) of 1.407 are the variables we took into account to determine<br />
the required uplift moment in Tables 4A through 5D.<br />
Tables 4A through 5D<br />
Tables 4A through 4D are to be used for non-coastal construction.<br />
Tables 5A and 5D are to be used for coastal construction.<br />
1. Determine the building category and importance factor from page 104, and the exposure category from<br />
page 105.<br />
2. Determine the mean roof height and slope of the roof.<br />
3. Select the appropriate table based on then information gathered from numbers 1 and 2 above.<br />
4. Follow across the basic wind speed row to the appropriate basic wind speed for the project. Then follow<br />
down the column to the appropriate mean roof height to determine the required aerodynamic uplift<br />
moment.<br />
Tables 6, through 10<br />
1. Select Tables 6, 8 or 9 based on the thickness of the decking and if tiles will be attached directly to the<br />
deck, or use Table 7 if the tiles will be attached to battens. Refer to Table 10 for Adhesive-set or Mortarset<br />
systems.<br />
2. Select an attachment method where the uplift capacity from Tables 6 through 9 is equal to or greater<br />
than the appropriate aerodynamic values listed in Tables 4A through 5D. Refer to the adhesive, mortar<br />
or roof tile manufacturer’s product approval or evaluation report for the resistance values for these<br />
attachment systems.<br />
Table 11<br />
Hip and ridge support member attachment recommendations.<br />
For Hip and Ridge Attachment Requirements<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 116<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment Tables Instructions<br />
Note1: To determine the required design pressures for the hip/ridge tiles, use the appropriate table from<br />
Tables 2A through 3D based on the job site parameters. The design pressures are conservative for any<br />
hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches (1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot<br />
area of the tile being used using the following formula:<br />
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)<br />
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)<br />
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).<br />
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).<br />
Note2: Resistance values for the hip and ridge tile are proprietary, and are dependent on the system used<br />
for attachment of the hip and ridge tile. Refer to Table 10 and the appropriate manufacturer’s product<br />
approval or evaluation report to determine the proper attachment method to meet or exceed the<br />
hip/ridge design pressures.<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure B &#8211; Non-Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 6:12 )<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 6:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 12.5 15.4 17.0 18.7 22.2 24.1 26.1 30.3 32.5 34.7<br />
40 13.6 16.8 18.5 20.3 24.1 26.2 28.3 32.9 35.3 37.7<br />
50 14.5 17.9 19.7 21.6 25.7 27.9 30.2 35.0 37.6 40.2<br />
60 15.2 18.8 20.8 22.8 27.1 29.4 31.8 36.9 39.6 42.4<br />
0 &#8211; 30 14.4 17.8 19.6 21.5 25.6 27.7 30.0 34.8 37.3 40.0<br />
40 15.6 19.3 21.3 23.3 27.8 30.1 32.6 37.8 40.5 43.4<br />
50 16.6 20.6 22.7 24.9 29.6 32.1 34.7 40.3 43.2 46.2<br />
60 17.5 21.6 23.9 26.2 31.2 33.8 36.6 42.4 45.5 48.7<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 4A<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 117<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure B &#8211; Non-Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 5½:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 9.4 11.6 12.8 14.0 16.7 18.1 19.6 22.7 24.4 26.1<br />
40 10.2 12.6 13.9 15.2 18.1 19.6 21.3 24.6 26.4 28.3<br />
50 10.9 13.4 14.8 16.2 19.3 20.9 22.6 26.3 28.2 30.2<br />
60 11.4 14.1 15.6 17.1 20.3 22.1 23.9 27.7 29.7 31.8<br />
0 &#8211; 30 10.8 13.3 14.7 16.1 19.2 20.8 22.5 26.1 28.0 30.0<br />
40 11.7 14.5 15.9 17.5 20.8 22.6 24.4 28.3 30.4 32.5<br />
50 12.5 15.4 17.0 18.6 22.2 24.1 26.0 30.2 32.4 34.7<br />
60 13.2 16.2 17.9 19.6 23.4 25.4 27.4 31.8 34.1 36.5<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 4B<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 118<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure B &#8211; Non-Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 12:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 7.6 9.4 10.4 11.4 13.6 14.7 15.9 18.5 19.8 21.2<br />
40 8.3 10.2 11.3 12.4 14.8 16.0 17.3 20.1 21.5 23.1<br />
50 8.8 10.9 12.0 13.2 15.7 17.1 18.5 21.4 23.0 24.6<br />
60 9.3 11.5 12.7 13.9 16.6 18.0 19.4 22.5 24.2 25.9<br />
0 &#8211; 30 8.8 10.9 12.0 13.1 15.6 17.0 18.3 21.3 22.8 24.4<br />
40 9.5 11.8 13.0 14.3 17.0 18.4 19.9 23.1 24.8 26.5<br />
50 10.2 12.6 13.8 15.2 18.1 19.6 21.2 24.6 26.4 28.3<br />
60 10.7 13.2 14.6 16.0 19.1 20.7 22.4 25.9 27.8 29.8<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Table 4C<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 119<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure B &#8211; Non-Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure B<br />
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 6¾:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 30 13.6 16.7 18.4 20.2 24.1 26.1 28.3 32.8 35.2 37.6<br />
40 14.7 18.2 20.0 22.0 26.2 28.4 30.7 35.6 38.2 40.9<br />
50 15.7 19.4 21.3 23.4 27.9 30.2 32.7 37.9 40.7 43.6<br />
60 16.5 20.4 22.5 24.7 29.4 31.9 34.5 40.0 42.9 45.9<br />
0 &#8211; 30 15.6 19.2 21.2 23.3 27.7 30.1 32.5 37.7 40.5 43.3<br />
40 16.9 20.9 23.0 25.3 30.1 32.6 35.3 40.9 43.9 47.0<br />
50 18.0 22.3 24.5 26.9 32.1 34.8 37.6 43.6 46.8 50.1<br />
60 19.0 23.5 25.9 28.4 33.8 36.6 39.6 46.0 49.3 52.8<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 4D<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 120<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure C &#8211; Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 6:12 )<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 6:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 15.2 18.7 20.6 22.6 26.9 29.2 31.6 36.7 39.3 42.1<br />
20 16.1 19.9 21.9 24.1 28.6 31.1 33.6 39.0 41.8 44.7<br />
25 16.9 20.8 23.0 25.2 30.0 32.6 35.2 40.8 43.8 46.9<br />
30 17.5 21.7 23.9 26.2 31.2 33.8 36.6 42.4 45.5 48.7<br />
40 18.6 23.0 25.4 27.8 33.1 35.9 38.9 45.1 48.4 51.8<br />
50 19.5 24.1 26.6 29.2 34.7 37.7 40.7 47.3 50.7 54.2<br />
60 20.3 25.1 27.6 30.3 36.1 39.1 42.3 49.1 52.7 56.4<br />
0 &#8211; 15 17.4 21.5 23.7 26.0 31.0 33.6 36.4 42.2 45.2 48.4<br />
20 18.5 22.9 25.2 27.7 32.9 35.7 38.6 44.8 48.1 51.4<br />
25 19.4 24.0 26.4 29.0 34.5 37.4 40.5 47.0 50.4 53.9<br />
30 20.2 24.9 27.5 30.1 35.9 38.9 42.1 48.8 52.4 56.0<br />
40 21.4 26.5 29.2 32.0 38.1 41.3 44.7 51.8 55.6 59.5<br />
50 22.5 27.7 30.6 33.5 39.9 43.3 46.9 54.3 58.3 62.4<br />
60 23.3 28.8 31.8 34.9 41.5 45.0 48.7 56.5 60.6 64.8<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 5A<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 121<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure C &#8211; Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 5½:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 11.4 14.0 15.5 17.0 20.2 21.9 23.7 27.5 29.5 31.6<br />
20 12.1 14.9 16.4 18.0 21.5 23.3 25.2 29.2 31.3 33.5<br />
25 12.7 15.6 17.2 18.9 22.5 24.4 26.4 30.6 32.9 35.2<br />
30 13.2 16.2 17.9 19.6 23.4 25.4 27.4 31.8 34.1 36.5<br />
40 14.0 17.3 19.0 20.9 24.8 27.0 29.2 33.8 36.3 38.8<br />
50 14.6 18.1 19.9 21.9 26.0 28.3 30.6 35.4 38.0 40.7<br />
60 15.2 18.8 20.7 22.7 27.1 29.4 31.8 36.8 39.5 42.3<br />
0 &#8211; 15 13.1 16.1 17.8 19.5 23.2 25.2 27.3 31.6 33.9 36.3<br />
20 13.9 17.1 18.9 20.7 24.7 26.8 29.0 33.6 36.1 38.6<br />
25 14.6 18.0 19.8 21.7 25.9 28.1 30.4 35.2 37.8 40.4<br />
30 15.1 18.7 20.6 22.6 26.9 29.2 31.6 36.6 39.3 42.0<br />
40 16.1 19.8 21.9 24.0 28.6 31.0 33.5 38.9 41.7 44.6<br />
50 16.8 20.8 22.9 25.2 29.9 32.5 35.1 40.8 43.7 46.8<br />
60 17.5 21.6 23.8 26.1 31.1 33.8 36.5 42.4 45.4 48.6<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 5B<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 122<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure C &#8211; Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 12:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 9.3 11.4 12.6 13.8 16.5 17.9 19.3 22.4 24.0 25.7<br />
20 9.8 12.1 13.4 14.7 17.5 19.0 20.5 23.8 25.5 27.3<br />
25 10.3 12.7 14.0 15.4 18.3 19.9 21.5 25.0 26.8 28.6<br />
30 10.7 13.2 14.6 16.0 19.1 20.7 22.4 25.9 27.8 29.8<br />
40 11.4 14.1 15.5 17.0 20.2 22.0 23.8 27.6 29.6 31.6<br />
50 11.9 14.7 16.2 17.8 21.2 23.0 24.9 28.9 31.0 33.2<br />
60 12.4 15.3 16.9 18.5 22.0 23.9 25.9 30.0 32.2 34.4<br />
0 &#8211; 15 10.7 13.2 14.5 15.9 18.9 20.5 22.2 25.8 27.6 29.6<br />
20 11.3 14.0 15.4 16.9 20.1 21.8 23.6 27.4 29.4 31.4<br />
25 11.9 14.6 16.1 17.7 21.1 22.9 24.7 28.7 30.8 32.9<br />
30 12.3 15.2 16.8 18.4 21.9 23.8 25.7 29.8 32.0 34.2<br />
40 13.1 16.2 17.8 19.6 23.3 25.3 27.3 31.7 34.0 36.4<br />
50 13.7 16.9 18.7 20.5 24.4 26.5 28.6 33.2 35.6 38.1<br />
60 14.3 17.6 19.4 21.3 25.4 27.5 29.8 34.5 37.0 39.6<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Table 5C<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 123<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Exposure C &#8211; Coastal<br />
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)<br />
Exposure C<br />
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 6¾:12 )<br />
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150<br />
0 &#8211; 15 16.4 20.3 22.3 24.5 29.2 31.7 34.3 39.7 42.6 45.6<br />
20 17.4 21.5 23.7 26.1 31.0 33.7 36.4 42.2 45.3 48.5<br />
25 18.3 22.6 24.9 27.3 32.5 35.3 38.1 44.2 47.5 50.8<br />
30 19.0 23.5 25.9 28.4 33.8 36.6 39.6 46.0 49.3 52.8<br />
40 20.2 24.9 27.5 30.2 35.9 38.9 42.1 48.8 52.4 56.1<br />
50 21.2 26.1 28.8 31.6 37.6 40.8 44.1 51.2 54.9 58.8<br />
60 22.0 27.1 29.9 32.8 39.1 42.4 45.9 53.2 57.1 61.1<br />
0 &#8211; 15 18.9 23.3 25.7 28.2 33.6 36.4 39.4 45.7 49.0 52.5<br />
20 20.1 24.8 27.3 30.0 35.7 38.7 41.9 48.5 52.1 55.7<br />
25 21.0 26.0 28.6 31.4 37.4 40.6 43.9 50.9 54.6 58.4<br />
30 21.8 27.0 29.7 32.6 38.8 42.1 45.6 52.9 56.7 60.7<br />
40 23.2 28.7 31.6 34.7 41.3 44.8 48.4 56.2 60.3 64.5<br />
50 24.3 30.0 33.1 36.3 43.3 46.9 50.8 58.9 63.2 67.6<br />
60 25.3 31.2 34.4 37.8 44.9 48.8 52.7 61.2 65.6 70.2<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Height (ft) above<br />
ground level, z<br />
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)<br />
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00<br />
Table 5D<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 124<br />
Roof Tile Attachment Resistance Values<br />
Profile 15/32&#8243; Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)<br />
Flat/Low 1 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 25.2<br />
Medium 1 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 25.2<br />
High 1 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 35.5<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 38.1<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 38.1<br />
High 2 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 44.3<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 39.1<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 36.1<br />
High 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 28.6<br />
Flat/Low 1 &#8211; #8 Screw 39.1<br />
Medium 1 &#8211; #8 Screw 33.2<br />
High 1 &#8211; #8 Screw 28.7<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; #8 Screw 50.2<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; #8 Screw 55.5<br />
High 2 &#8211; #8 Screw 51.3<br />
Profile 15/32&#8243; Decking, With Battens Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)<br />
Flat/Low 1 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 27.5<br />
Medium 1 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 27.5<br />
High 1 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 29.4<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 37.6<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 37.6<br />
High 2 &#8211; 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 47.2<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 24.6<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 36.4<br />
High 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 26.8<br />
Flat/Low 1 &#8211; #8 Screw 25.6<br />
Medium 1 &#8211; #8 Screw 30.1<br />
High 1 &#8211; #8 Screw 25.5<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; #8 Screw 36.1<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; #8 Screw 41.9<br />
High 2 &#8211; #8 Screw 37.1<br />
Profile 19/32&#8243; Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 46.4<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 45.5<br />
High 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 41.2<br />
Profile 15/32&#8243; Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)<br />
Flat/Low 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, With 2.5&#8243; Nail Hole 50.3<br />
Medium 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, With 2.5&#8243; Nail Hole 43.0<br />
High 2 &#8211; 10d Ringshank Nails, With 2.5&#8243; Nail Hole 33.1<br />
Note1: Conforms to SSTD &#8211; 11<br />
Table 9<br />
Table 6<br />
Table 7<br />
Table 8<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 125<br />
Table 10<br />
All Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment<br />
For Adhesive-Set and Mortar-Set Roof Tile Attachment Only<br />
and<br />
Attachment Resistance Limitations &#8211; See Note4<br />
Profile 15/32&#8243; or 19/32&#8243; Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Resistance Values<br />
Flat/Low Adhesive Based Systems See Note 1<br />
Medium Adhesive Based Systems See Note 1<br />
High Adhesive Based Systems See Note 1<br />
Flat/Low Mortar Based Systems See Note 2<br />
Medium Mortar Based Systems See Note 2<br />
High Mortar Based Systems See Note 2<br />
Flat/Low Propriety Mechanical Fastening Systems See Note 3<br />
Medium Propriety Mechanical Fastening Systems See Note 3<br />
High Propriety Mechanical Fastening Systems See Note 3<br />
Note 1: Please contact adhesive manufacturer for approved uplift resistance values<br />
This system produces product specific results based on laboratory testing of the<br />
type of adhesive (one or two component) and the placement of adhesive.<br />
Note 2: Please contact mortar manufacturer for approved uplift resistance values<br />
This system produces product specific results based on laboratory testing of the<br />
the composition and placement of mortar.<br />
Note 3: Please contact roof tile or fastener manufacturer for approved uplift resistance values<br />
This system produces product specific results based on laboratory testing of the<br />
the type and placement of fasteners.<br />
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 126<br />
Hip and Ridge Support Member Attachment Recommendations<br />
How to use Table 11:<br />
1. Determine the Exposure Category (See Page 105).<br />
2. Determine the thickness of the roof sheathing.<br />
3. Determine the basic wind speed.<br />
4. Follow the rows to the right, based on the information gathered from steps 1 through 3 above. Under<br />
the appropriate basic wind speed column, lists the center-to-center spacing based on either a ¾” strap<br />
using 1 screw or an 1 ½” strap using 2 screws.<br />
Roof Number of<br />
Sheathing Fasteners on each 100 110 120 130 140 150<br />
(inches) side of Ridge Board<br />
1 &#8211; #8 3/4&#8243; 36 29 25 21 18 16<br />
2 &#8211; #8 1-1/2&#8243; 48 48 43 36 31 27<br />
1 &#8211; #8 3/4&#8243; 27 22 18 16 13 12<br />
2 &#8211; #8 1-1/2&#8243; 46 38 32 27 23 20<br />
1 &#8211; #8 3/4&#8243; 38 32 24 22 19 17<br />
2 &#8211; #8 1-1/2&#8243; 48 48 43 36 31 27<br />
1 &#8211; #8 3/4&#8243; 29 24 20 17 14 12<br />
2 &#8211; #8 1-1/2&#8243; 46 38 32 27 23 20<br />
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.<br />
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.<br />
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02. Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15<br />
Note4: Table is good for Gable and Hip Roofs for Roof Slopes 2:12 &lt; 􀈙 &lt; = 12:12. Monoslope roof slopes are not addressed.<br />
Note5: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.<br />
C<br />
19/32&#8243;<br />
Exposure<br />
15/32&#8243;<br />
C<br />
B<br />
B<br />
Center to Center Spacing (inches)<br />
Table 11<br />
Hip and Ridge Support Member Attachment Recommendations<br />
Category II Buildings<br />
Basic Wind Speeds, V (mph)<br />
Strap Width<br />
Notes:<br />
1. These measurements were based on actual center-to-center spacing.<br />
2. Minimum thickness of roof sheathing shall be 15/32”.<br />
3. Steel straps shall have a minimum tensile strength (Fu) for cold-rolled steel of 42 ksi and a minimum<br />
Design yield strength (fy) for cold-rolled steel of 25 ksi conforming to one of the following<br />
ASTM A 606; ASTM A 607; ASTM A 611; ASTM A 653; ASTM A 715; and ASTM A 792.<br />
4. Minimum thickness of steel straps shall be 26 gauge (0.0179”) before application of corrosion<br />
Resistance protection.<br />
5. #8 wood screws are to conform to ASME / ANSI B18.6.1.<br />
6. #8 wood screws shall have a minimum end distance, an edge distance, and a minimum distance between screws<br />
of ½”. The distance is to be measured to the center of the screw.<br />
7. Table 11 is for Category II buildings with a mean roof height of 60’ or less.<br />
8. The building is not located on isolated hills, ridges, or escarpments, constituting<br />
Abrupt changes in general topography, which creates wind speed-up effects.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 127</p>
<p>Glossary 128<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
GLOSSARY<br />
GLOSSARY OF TERMS AND DEFINITIONS<br />
The terms and definitions herein are used in the context of Concrete and Clay Tile Roofing. It should be<br />
understood by the reader that some of the terms and definitions included herein may also have different<br />
meanings/interpretations when used in context with other types of Roof Construc-tions, Coverings,<br />
Roofing Materials/Systems.<br />
AERODYNAMIC MOMENT &#8211; A quantity which expresses the effect of a force applied at a particular<br />
point in relation to a specific point or axis.<br />
ANCHOR SHEET &#8211; The first sheet applied to a roof deck by nailing, mopping or other approved<br />
attachment, often called a ‘base sheet’.<br />
ANTI-PONDING &#8211; A method to ensure positive drainage over raised fascia/starter strip at eave.<br />
APA &#8211; American Plywood Association.<br />
APRON FLASHING &#8211; A flexible or rigid flashing installed at head of tile onto a vertical surface.<br />
APPLICATION RATE &#8211; The quantity (mass, volume or thickness) of material applied per unit area.<br />
APPROVED PRODUCTS &#8211; Includes all products tested and evaluated for the approved application.<br />
ASCE &#8211; American Society of Civil Engineers.<br />
ASPHALT &#8211; A bituminous waterproofing agent applied to roofing materials during the manufacturing<br />
process or in the assembly/construction of a roof covering.<br />
ASPHALT FELT &#8211; An asphalt saturated felt or an asphalt coated felt.<br />
ASPHALT ROOFING CEMENT &#8211; A mixture of asphaltic materials, solvents and graded mineral,<br />
organic or inorganic fillers.<br />
ASPHALT TYPE III -Also referred to as ‘STEEP ASPHALT’. It is a grade of asphalt designed for sloped<br />
roofing applications and complying with ASTM SPECIFICATION D 312, TYPE III.<br />
ASPHALT TYPE IV -Also referred to as ‘SPECIAL STEEP ASPHALT’. It is a grade of asphalt designed<br />
for sloped roofing applications complying with ASTM D 312, TYPE IV.<br />
ASTM &#8211; American Society for Testing and Materials.<br />
AWPA &#8211; American Wood Preservers Association.<br />
BACKNAILING &#8211; The practice of nailing roll roofing such that the nails are placed in the underlying<br />
roofing and are covered by the overlapping course of roll roofing.<br />
BASE FLASHING &#8211; That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the roof surface or deck to direct<br />
the flow of water onto the roof covering.<br />
Glossary 129<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
BASE SHEET &#8211; The bottom or first ply of a roof system assembly over which subsequent roofing plies<br />
are applied.<br />
BATTEN EXTENDER &#8211; Product designed to cantilever to center of valley and/or wall tray, nailed to<br />
batten with no penetration through metal designed to elevate tile above valley and flashing.<br />
BATTENS &#8211; Fastening strips installed to the underlayment or sub-roof to which roof tiles are then<br />
installed.<br />
BEDDING &#8211; Refers to the installation of roof tiles with mortar or polyurethane foam paddy and is<br />
structural in nature for basic securement.<br />
BOND &#8211; The adhesive and cohesive forces holding two roofing components in intimate contact.<br />
CAP SHEET &#8211; Top or final ply of an underlayment system.<br />
CLOSED VALLEY &#8211; (SEE VALLEYS).<br />
COLD PROCESS ROOFING &#8211; A continuous semi-flexible membrane consisting of plies of felts, mats<br />
or fabric that are laminated on a roof with alternate layers of cold-applied mastic.<br />
CONCEALED NAIL METHOD &#8211; (SEE BACKNAILING).<br />
COURSE &#8211; A row of tiles or roll roofing running parallel to the eave.<br />
COUNTER FLASHING &#8211; A rigid or flexible material secured on or into a wall, curb, pipe, rooftop unit<br />
or other surface to cover and protect the upper edge of a base flashing and its associated fasteners.<br />
COVERAGE &#8211; The surface area (in square feet) to be continuously covered by a specific roofing material,<br />
with allowance made for a specific lap.<br />
CRICKET &#8211; A peaked saddle construction located at the back (high side) of a chimney (or other<br />
appurtenance) to deflect the flow of water around the chimney.<br />
CROSS BOND METHOD &#8211; A method of installing tiles such that the side laps of the tiles are staggered<br />
to the preceding course.<br />
DECK &#8211; The surface installed over the structural framing members to which roofing is applied. Another<br />
name for sheathing. May be of wood boards, plywood or other approved material.<br />
DRIP EDGE &#8211; A non-corrosive material (usually of galvanized steel sheet metal, stainless steel, copper or<br />
aluminum) used along the roof perimeter to allow water run-off to drip clear of the underlying<br />
construction.<br />
EAVE &#8211; The horizontal lower edge of a sloped roof.<br />
Glossary 130<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
EAVE CLOSURE &#8211; A prefabricated EPDM rubber, metal, concrete or clay material or mortar to elevate<br />
the first course of tiles and to enclose the cavity formed by the tiles at the eave.<br />
FABRIC &#8211; A woven cloth of organic or inorganic filaments, threads or yarns. The prevailing types are<br />
either cotton or fiberglass (also often referred to as “membrane”).<br />
FASCIA &#8211; An ornamental board used to cover the rafter or truss end at the eave.<br />
FELT &#8211; A flexible or semi-flexible sheet manufactured for use as an underlayment.<br />
FISHMOUTH &#8211; A half-cylindrical or half-conical opening formed by an edge wrinkle in felt or roll<br />
roofing materials.<br />
FLANGE &#8211; The projecting edge of a rigid or semi-rigid component, such as a metal flashing flange,<br />
skylight flange, flashing boot flange, etc.<br />
FLASHING &#8211; A rigid or flexible material used to prevent water infiltration at roof projections and to<br />
redirect water from walls, chimneys, valleys, etc.<br />
FLASHING CEMENT &#8211; A premium grade of asphalt roofing cement (SEE ASPHALT ROOFING<br />
CEMENT).<br />
FLAT/LOW PROFILE TILE &#8211; Defined as those tiles with less than a 1/2 inch rise.<br />
FOAM PADDY &#8211; A prepared polyurethane foam adhesive mixture used to adhere a roof tile to the<br />
underlayment.<br />
FRSA &#8211; Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association.<br />
GABLE &#8211; The generally triangular section at the end of a pitched roof occupying the space between the<br />
two slopes.<br />
GALVANIZED &#8211; A zinc coating to prevent the rusting of steel or iron.<br />
HEAD LAP &#8211; 1. The dimension by which the overlap of the nose end of a tile covers the head end of tile<br />
in the row of tiles immediately under it. 2. The dimension by which a course of the underlayment overlaps<br />
the preceding course.<br />
HIGH PROFILE TILE &#8211; High profile shaped tiles are defined as those tiles having a rise to width ratio<br />
greater than 0.20.<br />
HIP &#8211; The inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping planes of the roof.<br />
HIP AND/OR RIDGE BOARD -Wood or metal frame installed on a hip or ridge to provide a surface for<br />
installa-tion of hip and ridge tiles.<br />
HOT MOP SYSTEM &#8211; Refers to a multi-ply sub roof system where one or more plies are adhered to an<br />
anchor sheet in hot asphalt.<br />
Glossary 131<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
HURRICANE CLIPS &#8211; (SEE STORM CLIP)<br />
INTERLOCKING TILE &#8211; Those tiles with a system of ribs or grooves enabling the lateral joining of<br />
adjacent tiles in the same horizontal course, with the over lapping lock covering the under lapping lock.<br />
“L” FLASHING &#8211; (SEE FLASHING)<br />
MASTIC &#8211; (SEE ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT)<br />
MEAN ROOF HEIGHT &#8211; The average elevation above grade height measured between the eave and<br />
ridge of a roof area.<br />
MEDIUM PROFILE TILE &#8211; Medium profile tiles are defined as those tiles having a rise to width ratio<br />
less than or equal to 0.20.<br />
MEMBRANE &#8211; (SEE FABRIC)<br />
MINERAL SURFACED ROLL ROOFING &#8211; A prepared organic felt with granular surfaced finish,<br />
minimum 74# per 100 square feet, commonly called 90# or No. 90.<br />
MODIFIED BITUMEN &#8211; Are composite sheets consisting of a copolymer modified bitumen often<br />
reinforced and sometimes surfaced with various types of fibers, foils and mats.<br />
MORTAR PADDY &#8211; A prepared mortar mixture used to adhere a roof tile to the underlayment.<br />
NINETY-POUND ROLL ROOFING (90#) &#8211; (SEE MINERAL SURFACED ROLL ROOFING)<br />
NON-INTERLOCKING TILE &#8211; Those tiles without restrictive ribs, grooves or channels at the side laps.<br />
NTRMA &#8211; National Tile Roof Manufacturers Association.<br />
OPEN VALLEY &#8211; (SEE VALLEYS)<br />
OVERHANG &#8211; That portion of the tile which extends beyond the eave.<br />
PAN FLASHING &#8211; Similar in profile shape to an “L” flashing, but with a return designed/fabricated to<br />
the outside horizontal edge. This type of flashing is used to contain water flow.<br />
PHASED APPLICATION &#8211; The installation of a roof system or waterproofing system during two or more<br />
set time intervals.<br />
PITCH &#8211; The degree of roof incline expressed as a ratio of the rise, in feet to the span, in feet.<br />
PLASTIC CEMENT &#8211; (SEE ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT)<br />
PLY &#8211; The number of layers of roofing, i.e. one-ply, two-ply.<br />
POINT-UP &#8211; The application of mortar to fill voids to various ends, sides and angles of a tile roof, which<br />
are non structural in nature.<br />
Glossary 132<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
RAFTER &#8211; The supporting framing member immediately beneath the deck, sloping from the ridge to the<br />
wall plate.<br />
RAKE &#8211; The outside edge of a sloped roof at the gable.<br />
REGLET &#8211; A groove in a wall or other surface adjoining a roof surface for the use of installing a<br />
counterflashing.<br />
RIDGE &#8211; The uppermost horizontal external angle formed by the intersection on two sloping planes of the<br />
roof.<br />
RIDGEBOARD &#8211; (SEE HIP AND RIDGE BOARD)<br />
SADDLE &#8211; A small structure that helps channel water to a point or around an obstruction. (SEE<br />
CRICKET)<br />
SATURATED FELT &#8211; A roofing felt that had been partially saturated with asphalt.<br />
SELVAGE -Need Definition<br />
SHEATHING &#8211; Exterior grade wood boards used as a roof deck material.<br />
SIDE LAP &#8211; The width of the section of a tile containing the under lap.<br />
SKIRT FLASHING &#8211; A rigid or flexible flashing used to redirect water from a preformed flashing onto<br />
the tile surface.<br />
SLOPE &#8211; The degree of roof incline expressed as a ratio of the rise in inches to the run in inches.<br />
SLIPPAGE &#8211; Relative lateral movement of roll roofing installed on sloped roof often occurring due to not<br />
having backnailed the roll roofing.<br />
SOAKER FLASHING &#8211; A rigid or flexible flashing used at intersecting planes.<br />
SOIL PIPE &#8211; A vent pipe that penetrates the plane of the roof.<br />
STORM CLIPS &#8211; A device attached near or on the nose end of a tile to inhibit the uplift forces of wind.<br />
STRAIGHT BOND METHOD &#8211; A method of installing tiles such that the side laps of the tiles are in<br />
direct line to the preceding course.<br />
SQUARE &#8211; A unit of roof measure equivalent to 100 square feet.<br />
SWEAT SHEET &#8211; The first ply of underlayment installed the length of a valley prior to the application of<br />
subsequent horizontal plies.<br />
TRI &#8211; Tile Roofing Institute, formally the (RTI) Roof Tile Institute and the (NTRMA) National Tile<br />
Roofing Manufacturers Association.<br />
Glossary 133<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
TAPERED CANT STRIP &#8211; A beveled strip used for support behind a raised fascia or starter strip to<br />
modify the angle at the eave.<br />
TIN TAG &#8211; A small sheet metal disc through which a fastener is driven into the substrate to secure<br />
underlayment.<br />
UNDERLAYMENT &#8211; One or more water shedding layers of roofing applied to a sloped roof prior to the<br />
installa-tion of roof tiles.<br />
VALLEY &#8211; The internal angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.<br />
VALLEYS, TILE INSTALLATION METHODS:<br />
CLOSED VALLEY &#8211; A method of installing roof tiles where tiles are cut, mitered and installed<br />
to a close tight fit.<br />
OPEN VALLEY &#8211; A method of installing roof tiles where tiles are cut, mitered and installed such<br />
that a gap or trough is created to assist in the flow/drainage of water run-off.<br />
VENT &#8211; Any outlet for air that protrudes through the roof deck.<br />
WEEP HOLE &#8211; Openings in the eave closure and/or certain ridge conditions that allow for moisture<br />
drainage and air ventilation.<br />
Glossary 134<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005</p>
<p>FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 1 of 30<br />
INSTRUCTIONS<br />
FOR<br />
HIP AND RIDGE ATTACHMENT SECTIONS<br />
OF THE<br />
FRSA/TRI “CONCRETE AND CLAY ROOF TILE<br />
INSTALLATION MANUAL” Fourth Edition<br />
FOR USE BY<br />
AUTHORITIES HAVING JURISDICTION<br />
Submitted by the<br />
FRSA/TRI TILE COMMITTEE<br />
REVISED: August 3, 2005<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 2 of 30<br />
Foreword<br />
These recommendations were developed after surveying the recent hurricanes and with input from the<br />
code, roofing and tile manufacturing community. They are designed to further clarify the current<br />
installation procedures as they pertain to the specific roof tile systems (Mechanically fastened, Adhesiveset<br />
or Mortar-set).<br />
The following recommendations provide for only products approved by the FBC (Florida Building Code),<br />
tested according to SSTD-11 and verified by third party independent FBC approved laboratories, to<br />
determine the wind uplift limitations of the various hip and ridge attachment methods or by installation<br />
methods currently recognized in the HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone) section of the FBC.<br />
A joint sub-committee consisting of members from the FRSA (Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air<br />
Conditioning Contractors Association, Inc) and the TRI (Tile Roofing Institute) drafted these<br />
recommendations and they were approved by consensus by the FRSA Roof Tile Committee.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 3 of 30<br />
Table of Contents<br />
1. Introduction…………………………………………………………… ………………… 4<br />
1.1 Purpose……………………………………………………………………..……… 4<br />
1.2 Scope…………………………………………………………………………….… 4<br />
1.3 Basis for Requirements……………………………………………………………. 4<br />
1.4 Applicable Documents………………………………………………………..…… 5<br />
1.5 Acronyms, Definitions and General Assumptions ………………………………… 5<br />
2. General Information……………………………………………………………………… 6<br />
2.1 Hip and Ridge Attachment Information…………………………………………… 6<br />
2.2 Approval Ratings and Limitations…………………………………………….…… 7<br />
3. General Requirements……………………………………………………………………. 7<br />
3.1 Review of Documents………………………………………………………………. 7<br />
3.2 Markings……………………………………………………………………………. 8<br />
3.3 Manufacturer’s Installation Instructions……………………………………….…… 8<br />
3.4 Qualified Applicator Program………………………………………………….…… 8<br />
4. Hip and Ridge Attachments………………………………………………………….…… 8<br />
4.1 Hip and Ridge Attachment descriptions……………………………………….…… 8<br />
4.2 Field Cut Roof Tile Requirements…………………………………………….……. 9<br />
4.3 Hip and Ridge/Field Tile System Limitations……………………………………… 9<br />
5. Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile…………………………………………….. 11<br />
5.1 Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile – Structural Support Options………… 11<br />
5.2 Weather Blocking Options…………………………………………………………. 13<br />
5.3 Hip and/or Ridge Starter Tile Attachment…………………………………………. 18<br />
5.4 Hip and Ridge Tiles Mechanically Attached to Structural Support……….………. 19<br />
6. Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System………………………………………… 19<br />
6.1 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System- Structural Support Options…….. 19<br />
6.2 Adhesive Weather Blocking System Options………………………………………. 20<br />
6.3 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment………………………………. 22<br />
6.4 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment……………………………………… 22<br />
7. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System…………………….……….……… 24<br />
7.1 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System………………………..………. 24<br />
7.2 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment.…………………………..……. 24<br />
7.3 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment.……………………………….………. 26<br />
Appendix A: Hip and Ridge Board Attachment Instructions – Table 11……………….. 30<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 4 of 30<br />
1. Introduction<br />
1.1. Purpose<br />
1.1.1. This document is to be used as a supplement to the FRSA/TRI “Concrete and Clay Roof<br />
Tile Installation Manual” &#8211; Fourth Edition, specifically the sections of Systems 1, 2, 3 and<br />
4, pertaining to hip and ridge attachment. Recent wind events have established the need to<br />
provide greater attention to hip and ridge attachment systems. In order to prevent similar<br />
occurrences, all hip and ridge attachment systems must be tested to show compliance to the<br />
wind loads set forth by the FBC. The test results will establish the mean roof height<br />
limitations for each of the hip and ridge attachment systems. The prescriptive method of<br />
hip and ridge applications will no longer be accepted.<br />
1.2 Scope<br />
1.2.1 These recommendations set the requirements for the hip and ridge attachment for Systems<br />
1, 2, 3 and 4 of the FRSA/TRI “Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual” -<br />
Fourth Edition.<br />
1.2.2 These recommendations and any other newly developed recommendation shall be tested<br />
under laboratory conditions according to SSTD-11 to determine the wind uplift resistance<br />
of the specific hip and ridge attachment system. An additional tile factor of 2-to-1 above<br />
that specified in SSTD-11 or TAS 101 shall be applied in determining the ‘allowable<br />
overturning moment’ or ‘attachment resistance expressed as a moment (Mf)’ to account<br />
for any interdependence hip and ridge attachment methods used.<br />
1.2.3 The wind resistance performance of the hip and ridge system depends in part on its ability<br />
to resist the uplift forces at the perimeter edge and the attachment of the adjoining field<br />
tile.<br />
1.2.4 These recommendations are not intended to determine which hip and ridge system is more<br />
or less suitable for the user of the product. Conditions, under which the hip and ridge<br />
attachment system is used, vary widely. It is the ability of the manufacturer and the user to<br />
determine the suitability of the hip and ridge system for the intended job location.<br />
1.2.5 These recommendations are not intended to determine which hip and ridge system is more<br />
or less suitable as a weather blocking system or the system’s ability to restrict or prevent<br />
the infiltration of air or water into the tile system. It is the responsibility of the user to<br />
determine the most effective weather blocking system for the intended job location.<br />
1.3 Basis for Requirements<br />
1.3.1 These recommendations are based on experience, research and testing and/or the<br />
standards of other organizations. The advice of manufacturers, users, and trade<br />
associations was also considered.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 5 of 30<br />
1.3.2 These recommendations prohibit component substitution without proper laboratory testing<br />
and a FBC Product Approval.<br />
1.3.3 The recommendations reflect tests and practices used to examine characteristics of hip and<br />
ridge attachment. These recommendations are intended as guides and strict conformity is<br />
not always mandatory. Hip and ridge attachment systems having characteristics not<br />
anticipated by these recommendations may be satisfactory if performance equal or<br />
superior to that required by these recommendations is demonstrated.<br />
1.4 Applicable Documents<br />
1.4.1 FRSA/TRI ‘Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual’ – Fourth Edition<br />
1.4.2 (FBC) Florida Building Code<br />
1.4.3 Chapter 9B-72 &#8211; Department of Community Affairs – Florida Building Commission<br />
1.4.4 SSTD-11 – ‘SBCCI Test Standard for Determining Wind Resistance of Concrete or Clay<br />
Roof Tiles’<br />
1.4.5 (TAS) Testing Application Standard 101 – 95 – ‘Test Procedure for Static Uplift<br />
Resistance of Mortar or Adhesive Set Tile Systems’<br />
1.5 Acronyms, Definitions and General Assumptions<br />
1.5.1 FBC – Florida Building Code.<br />
1.5.2 HVHZ – High Velocity Hurricane Zone of the FBC.<br />
1.5.3 FRSA – Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association, Inc.<br />
1.5.4 TRI &#8211; Tile Roofing Institute, formally the (RTI) Roof Tile Institute and the (NTRMA)<br />
National Tile Roofing Manufacturers Association.<br />
1.5.5 Code Approved – Any product that has FBC Product Approval for that specific<br />
application.<br />
1.5.6 Structural support – Any (wood, metal, or other code approved) product used as a means<br />
to transfer the loads of an attached hip and ridge tile to the substrate.<br />
1.5.7 Job-site mix – Any non pre-bagged mortar meeting ASTM C-270 for cement, sand and<br />
proportioning mixed at a job site and not bagged under the quality control of the mortar<br />
manufacture.<br />
1.5.8 Pre-bagged Mortar – Any mortar where the proportions are mixed and bagged under the<br />
quality control of the mortar manufacturer and has been issued a FBC Product Approval,<br />
tested to SSTD-11.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 6 of 30<br />
1.5.9 FRSA/TRI Manual – The FRSA/TRI ‘Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual’ –<br />
Fourth Edition.<br />
1.5.10 Roof Tile Adhesive – A roof tile adhesive product that has been issued FBC Product<br />
Approval, tested to SSTD-11.<br />
1.5.11 2” x (H) &#8211; a nominal 2” wide by any height (H) necessary to accommodate and properly<br />
install the attachment of the hip and ridge tiles. The height of the structural support will<br />
vary due to tile profile and the pitch of the roof.<br />
2. General Information<br />
2.1. Hip and Ridge Attachment System Information<br />
2.1.1. Hip and ridge attachment systems are used for weather blocking at the terminations of two<br />
adjoining roof planes. Experience has shown that adequate attachment of the hip and ridge<br />
tile systems is extremely important to maintaining weather blocking and to minimize<br />
ancillary missiles from being created which may occur when hip and ridge tiles impact the<br />
field roof tile. Adequately secured field tiles may be vulnerable to wind damage if the hip<br />
and ridge tile system is improperly installed. To achieve the specified wind uplift results,<br />
follow the hip and ridge application procedures, which shall be representative of the tested<br />
assembly.<br />
2.1.2. Hip and ridge attachment system failures occur when wind uplift or pressure exerts forces<br />
beyond the resistance strength of the hip and ridge attachment and/or of the structural<br />
support to the substrate. When the hip and ridge tile and/or the adjoining field tile are not<br />
properly secured, the resulting prying action and uplift forces may cause the hip and ridge<br />
attachment to fail. When this occurs the roof tile system becomes vulnerable and may<br />
cause ancillary damage and may subject the building to additional rain and/or additional<br />
roof tile securement damage.<br />
2.1.3. Hip and ridge tile systems must adequately terminate the adjoining planes. There are three<br />
basic types of weather blocking methods used in Florida, foil-faced self-adhered<br />
membrane, adhesive and mortar:<br />
Foil-faced self-adhered Membrane System is typically used when a wood hip and ridge<br />
frame has been secured to the substrate, the foiled backed membrane is applied in a step<br />
fashion sealing to both sides of the adjoining field tile planes prior to the mechanically<br />
attachment to the wood frame. It can also be used on a metal hip and ridge frame where<br />
mechanical attachment of the hip and ridge tile is an acceptable attachment method. Can<br />
be used with all roof tile systems.<br />
Adhesive is used to weather block the entire cavity of the adjoining planes of field tile to<br />
the sides of the structural support. Can be used with all roof tile systems.<br />
Mortar (pre-bagged or job-site mix) is used to weather block the longitudinal edges of<br />
the hip and ridge tiles to the adjoining field tile roof planes. Can be used with all tile<br />
systems.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 7 of 30<br />
2.1.4 Hip and Ridge tiles must be adequately attached to transfer the loads to the substrate.<br />
There are three basic attachment methods of the hip and ridge tiles used in Florida,<br />
mechanical attachment, adhesive-set and mortar- set attachment systems:<br />
Mechanical Attachment is the securement of the hip/ridge tiles with nails or screws at the<br />
head of the tile in addition to a FBC approved adhesive at the hip/ridge tile overlaps.<br />
Adhesive-set is the securement of the hip/ridge tiles to a structural support with a full bed<br />
of adhesive or other FBC approved paddy method.<br />
Mortar-set is the securement of the hip/ridge tiles along both longitudinal edges of the<br />
adjoining planes of field tile embedded in a full bed of pre-bagged FBC approved<br />
mortar only.<br />
2.1.5 Hip and Ridge tile attachment methods are also categorized by whether or not the<br />
attachment system is an independent attachment system or an interdependent attachment<br />
system. An example of an independent attachment is when the hip/ridge tile is attached in<br />
a full bed of adhesive or mortar. An interdependent attachment system is when the load is<br />
being applied to more than one tile. An example is a mechanical fastener used at the head<br />
of the hip/ridge tile and adhesive used at the overlap joining both tiles together. When the<br />
load is being applied to the hip/ridge tile, the resistance is shared with the nail installed at<br />
the head of the tile and the adhesive at the hip/ridge tile overlap, which is transferring the<br />
load to the nail of the previously installed hip tile.<br />
2.2. Approval Ratings and Limitations<br />
2.2.1. The uplift resistance values achieved from the laboratory testing shall determine the mean<br />
roof height limitation of the hip and ridge attachment system.<br />
2.2.2. The resistance values for mechanical fasteners shall be posted in the roof tile<br />
manufacturers FBC Product Approval.<br />
2.2.3. The resistance values for adhesive-set system shall be posted in the roof tile adhesive<br />
manufacturers FBC Product Approval.<br />
2.2.4. The resistance values for mortar-set system shall be posted in the roof tile mortar<br />
manufacturers FBC Product Approval.<br />
3. General Requirements<br />
3.1. Review of Documents<br />
3.1.1. The hip and ridge attachment system shall be installed according to these<br />
recommendations and confirmed by test data and/or manufacturers installation<br />
recommendation if the system test indicates otherwise or installed according to the HVHZ.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 8 of 30<br />
3.1.2. All hip and ridge attachment systems, with uplift resistance values and limitations shall be<br />
included in the FBC Product Approval or installed according to the HVHZ, with the same<br />
limitations applied.<br />
3.2 Markings<br />
3.2.1 The packaging for the hip and ridge attachment products shall bear the manufacturer’s<br />
name, model number or trade name and the FBC Product Approval number.<br />
3.3 Manufacturer’s Installation Instructions<br />
3.3.1 The manufacturer shall provide all the necessary application instructions, printed<br />
materials, and other assistance to the installer to ensure proper installation as required to<br />
produce the performance as tested for the FBC Product Approval. These instructions shall<br />
include uplift resistance values and clearly state any limitations required.<br />
3.4 Qualified Applicator Program<br />
3.4.1 The adhesive-set and mortar-set manufacturers shall provide a joint qualified applicator<br />
program.<br />
4. Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment Systems<br />
NOTE: This document was written for projects utilizing hip and ridge tile. For mitered hip and<br />
ridge applications refer to the tile manufacturers recommendations.<br />
4.1 Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment Descriptions<br />
4.1.1 There are four roof tile installation systems currently listed in FRSA/TRI ‘Concrete and<br />
Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual, System One, System Two, System Three and System<br />
Four ‘A’ &amp; ‘B’. Only System Three and System Four ‘B’ allows for the use of a FBC<br />
approved pre-bagged mortar to attach hip and ridge tiles without the use of a wood,<br />
metal or other structural support.<br />
The three (3) most common methods for installing hip and ridge tile are mechanically<br />
fastened, Adhesive-set and mortar-set attachment systems:<br />
1) Mechanically Fastened Hip and Ridge Attachment System – This attachment<br />
system consists of installing typically a wood hip and ridge frame (or other<br />
structural support equal to or superior to resist the pullout of mechanical fastener)<br />
secured to the substrate according to the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile<br />
Installation Manual or the requirements of the HVHZ requirements of the (FBC)<br />
Florida Building Code, or having a FBC product approval meeting the<br />
requirements of the FBC, specifically rule 9B-72. The weather blocking<br />
mechanism is either accomplished with adhesive tested for a weather block, prebagged<br />
or job site mix mortar or with a step flashing using a foil-faced self-adhered<br />
membrane. The hip/ridge tiles are mechanically attached to the structural support<br />
with mechanical fasteners and a FBC code-approved roof tile adhesive at the<br />
hip/ridge tile overlaps.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 9 of 30<br />
2) Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System &#8211; This attachment system<br />
consists of installing a wood or metal hip and ridge frame (or other structural<br />
support) secured to the substrate according to the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay<br />
Roof Tile Installation Manual or to the requirements of the HVHZ requirements of<br />
the (FBC) Florida Building Code, or having a FBC product approval meeting the<br />
requirements of the FBC, specifically rule 9B-72. The weather blocking<br />
mechanism is either accomplished with mortar or with a FBC code-approved roof<br />
tile adhesive or other FBC code-approved weather blocking material, designed and<br />
tested specifically for roof tile weather blocking applications. The hip/ridge tiles are<br />
attached to the structural support with a FBC approved adhesive according to the<br />
adhesive manufacturers recommendations based on the FBC approved independent<br />
laboratory testing or according to the requirements of the HVHZ requirements of<br />
the FBC. For slopes over 7:12, additional securement at the hip may be necessary<br />
to prevent tile movement until adhesive is cured.<br />
3) Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System &#8211; This attachment system consists<br />
of installing hip and ridge tiles into a bed of FBC approved mortar tested<br />
specifically for hip and ridge tile applications and meet the requirements of the<br />
(FBC) Florida Building Code, specifically rule 9B-72. The mortar is used as the<br />
attachment and waterproofing mechanism. For slopes over 7:12, additional<br />
securement at the hip may be necessary to prevent tile movement until mortar is<br />
cured.<br />
4.2 Field Cut Roof Tile Requirements<br />
4.2.1 All field cut tiles (two tiles on each side of hip) and the top course of ridge must be<br />
attached to the substrate with code-approved adhesive, code-approved mortar or<br />
mechanical fasteners and adhesive. (See Drawings 1 and 2). In situations where the ridge<br />
course of tile has been cut, the field cut tile and the full tile course below the cut tile must<br />
be attached to the substrate as well. This requirement is designed to minimize any dynamic<br />
movement of the field cut tiles, at the most stringent zones of the roof, which may occur<br />
during a high wind event such as hurricanes. (See Drawings 3).<br />
4.2.2 The minimum head lap when installing the hip and ridge tiles is 2”, as stated in the<br />
FRSA/TRI manual. It may be necessary to increase the head lap to cover exposed hip/ridge<br />
tile fastening holes or adhesive. Cover exposed fasteners with a UV resistant sealant.<br />
4.3 Hip and Ridge/Field Tile System Limitations<br />
4.3.1 There are three attachment methods for securing hip and ridge tile, mechanically attached,<br />
adhesive attached, and Mortar attached. These methods can only be used on field tile<br />
attachment systems as follows:<br />
Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tiles &#8211; Can be used on field tile attachment<br />
Systems One, Two, Three and Four, as listed in the FRSA/TRI Manual.<br />
Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tiles &#8211; Can be used on field tile attachment Systems One,<br />
Two, Three and Four, as listed in the FRSA/TRI Manual.<br />
Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tiles &#8211; Can be used on field tile attachment Systems Three and<br />
Four ‘B’ only, as listed in the FRSA/TRI Manual.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 10 of 30<br />
NOTE: Use only the hip/ridge attachment system that will meet or exceed the tile/wind loads set<br />
forth by the FBC.<br />
Drawing 1<br />
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Attach two tile each side of hip and one top ridge course to the underlayment with code<br />
approved roof tile adhesive, code approved mortar or mechanically attach with fasteners<br />
and code approved adhesive at the tile overlaps. When using adhesive or mortar to attach<br />
tile to the underlayment the underlayment must be approved for adhesive-set or mortar-set<br />
applications.<br />
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x<br />
High Profile Tile or Straight Bond Tile Application<br />
Attach two tile each side of hip and one top ridge course to the underlayment with code<br />
approved roof tile adhesive, code approved mortar or mechanically attach with fasteners<br />
and code approved adhesive at the tile overlaps. When using adhesive or mortar to attach<br />
tile to the underlayment the underlayment must be approved for adhesive-set or mortar-set<br />
applications.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 11 of 30<br />
Drawing 3<br />
5. Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile<br />
5.1. Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile &#8211; Structural Support Options<br />
5.1.1. Determine how you want to attach the structural support to the substrate. The three most<br />
common methods to attach the structural support (typically wood) to the substrate are:<br />
1) Metal Brackets – (See Drawing 4)<br />
2) Metal Straps – (See Drawing 5)<br />
3) Code-approved Adhesive – (See Drawing 6)<br />
5.1.2 Attachment of the wood hip and ridge frame to the substrate must be according to Table<br />
11 of the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual or according to the<br />
HVHZ requirements of the FBC. (See Appendix A for copy of the FRSA/TRI Manual<br />
Table 11).<br />
x x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x<br />
x<br />
Where field cut tiles are used at the ridge, attach the cut tile and full tile each side of top ridge course<br />
to the underlayment with code approved roof tile adhesive, code approved mortar or mechanically<br />
attach with fasteners and code approved adhesive at the tile overlaps. When using adhesive or<br />
mortar to attach the tile to the underlayment the underlayment must be approved for adhesive-set<br />
or mortar-set applications.<br />
Cut Pieces at Ridge Line<br />
x x x x x x x x<br />
x x x x x x x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x x x x x x x x<br />
x x x x x x x x x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
x<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 12 of 30<br />
Drawing 4<br />
Drawing 5<br />
Install according to Table 11 of the<br />
FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay<br />
Roof Tile InstallationManual<br />
or<br />
the recommendations of HVHZ<br />
of the Florida Building Code<br />
MechanicallyAttachedWoodHip and<br />
Ridge BoardUsingMetal Brackets.<br />
11/2&#8243;<br />
Option 1<br />
3/4&#8243;<br />
Option 2<br />
1&#8243;<br />
Option 3<br />
Install according to Table 11 of the<br />
FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay<br />
Roof Tile InstallationManual<br />
or<br />
the recommendations of HVHZ<br />
of the Florida Building Code<br />
MechanicallyAttachedWoodHip and<br />
Ridge Board using StrappingMethod<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 13 of 30<br />
Drawing 6<br />
5.2 Weather Blocking Options<br />
5.2.1. After completion of the structural support attachment choose the desired weather<br />
blocking method for the specific attachment system. The three most common<br />
weather blocking methods are:<br />
1) Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane Weather Blocking System<br />
2) FBC Approved Adhesive Tested as a Weather Blocking System<br />
3) (Pre-bagged or Jobsite Mix) Mortar Hip/Ridge Weather Blocking System<br />
5.2.2. Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane as a Weather Block.<br />
5.2.2.1. This system uses self-adhered membrane as weather block. No mortar is used<br />
along the longitudinal edges of the tile. Mortar can be used at the hip/ridge,<br />
hip/valley, ridge/valley, and ridge/gable (etc) junctions as a weather block.<br />
5.2.2.2. Install foil-faced self-adhered membrane over hip/ridge frame (foil side up) in<br />
a step flashing method per membrane manufacturer’s recommendations and<br />
seal to field tile. (See Drawings 7 &amp; <img src='http://s.wordpress.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif' alt='8)' class='wp-smiley' /><br />
5.2.2.3. Care should be taken to ensure the self-adhered membrane is sealed to the tile<br />
surface. Ensure hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley and hip/eave junctions are<br />
sealed to prevent water entry of those areas.<br />
Install according the recommendations<br />
of HVHZ of the Florida Building Code<br />
and the adhesive manufacturer<br />
Wood Hip and Ridge Board<br />
Attached with Code-approved adhesive<br />
. .. . ..<br />
. .<br />
&#8230;&#8230; &#8230; ..<br />
.. . &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. &#8230; . .. .. &#8230; . &#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230; &#8230; .<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; .. .. ..<br />
&#8230; ..<br />
Underlayment approved<br />
for adhesive applications<br />
Code &#8211; approved<br />
adhesive<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 14 of 30<br />
Drawing 7<br />
Drawing 8<br />
Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane Used as a Weather Block<br />
Foil-faced<br />
self-adhered<br />
step flashing<br />
(foil facing up)<br />
Structural<br />
support<br />
. &#8230;.. &#8230; &#8230;&#8230;<br />
Fasten with nail or screw<br />
to structural support<br />
(wood shown) Install code-approved adhesive at<br />
hip/ridge tile overlaps<br />
Fasten structural support<br />
with adhesive or metal straps<br />
FRSA/TRI Manual or the<br />
HVHZ of the FBC.<br />
Tile overlap<br />
Foiled back<br />
self-adhered<br />
membrane<br />
&#8230; . .<br />
. ..<br />
. . .<br />
.<br />
Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane Used as a Weather Block<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 15 of 30<br />
5.2.3 Adhesive Used as a Weather Block<br />
5.2.3.1 This system uses adhesive as weather blocking system. There is no mortar<br />
placed along the longitudinal edges of the hip and ridge tile. Adhesive is<br />
placed where the field tile abuts to the structural support. A bead of adhesive<br />
is placed parallel to the hip and/or ridge board tile junction to act as a weather<br />
block and is applied prior to the attachment of the hip and ridge tile.<br />
5.2.3.2 Install adhesive to seal all voids between the tile and the structural support<br />
according to the adhesive manufacturers recommendations. Care should be<br />
taken to ensure all areas are sealed with adhesive to prevent water entry.<br />
(See Drawings 9 &amp; 10)<br />
Drawing 9<br />
..<br />
Adhesive used as weather blocking<br />
Structural<br />
support<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. .. &#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;.<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
.. ..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
Adhesive sealing<br />
tile to structural<br />
support.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 16 of 30<br />
Drawing 10<br />
Drawing 11<br />
&#8230;. .. . &#8230; . . . .<br />
&#8230; .<br />
. . . . . . &#8230;.. &#8230; &#8230;&#8230;<br />
Fasten with nail or screw to<br />
structrual support (wood shown)<br />
Install code approved adhesive at<br />
hip/ridge tile overlaps<br />
Embed tile into mortar bed<br />
both sides of ridge or pack<br />
mortar into void after hip<br />
and ridge tiles are installed<br />
Fasten structural support<br />
with adhesive or metal<br />
strapsaccording to the<br />
FRSA/TRI Manual or<br />
the HVHZ of the FBC.<br />
Point mortar to<br />
match tile finish<br />
Tile overlap<br />
Attaching Hip/Ridge tile using Mortar as Weather Blocking<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.. &#8230; &#8230;&#8230;<br />
Fasten with nail or screw min.<br />
3/4&#8243; into structural support. Install code approved<br />
adhesive at hip/ridge<br />
Fasten frame according tile overlaps<br />
FRSA/TRI Manual or the<br />
HVHZ of the FBC.<br />
Seal tile with FBC<br />
approved adhesive<br />
to structural support.<br />
Tile overlap<br />
Hip/Ridge Tile Attachment Using Adhesive as Weather Block<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; . .<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
..<br />
..<br />
Mortar to seal<br />
gable end<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
Structural support ..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 17 of 30<br />
Drawing 12<br />
10&#8243;<br />
Lap previous paddy 3&#8243;<br />
Mortar Hip and Ridge Weather Blocking System.<br />
10&#8243; Mason&#8217;s trowel<br />
full of mortar<br />
Drawing 13<br />
Pre-bagged or job site mixed<br />
mortar may be used for<br />
weather blocking areas only.<br />
When used as a structural<br />
attachment only FBC approved<br />
pre-bagged mortar is allowed.<br />
Mechanically Fastened Hip and Ridge<br />
Tile using Mortar as a weather block<br />
Pack with mortar and<br />
point to match tile finish<br />
&#8230;&#8230; &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
Attach with mechanical fastener<br />
and approved roof tile adhesive<br />
prior to packing with mortar.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 18 of 30<br />
5.3. Hip and/or Ridge Starter Tile Attachment<br />
5.3.1 Starting at the eave, place hip starter tile over wood hip frame, positioning in the center of<br />
the structural support. Secure the head of the starter tile to the structural support with a<br />
mechanical fastener conforming to the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation<br />
Manual.<br />
5.3.2 Care must be taken to properly secure the first (starting) hip and ridge tile of the hip/ridge<br />
attachment system. Additional securement at the hip starter tile installed at the eave and at<br />
the starting ridge tile installed at either the ridge/hip or ridge/gable junctions are necessary<br />
to prevent the tile from overturning during a high wind event.<br />
5.3.3 Typically the structural support is kept 6” to 12” back from the eave to allow for the<br />
aesthetic placement of mortar used as a weather block and closing off the hip end at the<br />
eave. It may be necessary to extend or cantilever the structural support toward the eave to<br />
ensure adequate support for the hip tile attachment. (See Drawing 25) All hip or ridge<br />
starter tile must be secured at the both ends of the tile either with mechanical fasteners or<br />
adhesive. Although this section mentions hip starter tiles, the same is true for the starting<br />
ridge tile. Some options are listed below:<br />
1) Drill a 3/16”hole within lower one-third of the tile length, from the eave end of<br />
the hip starter tile. Secure the eave end of the starter tile with a mechanical<br />
fastener embedding into the structural support, a minimum of ”. Seal the head<br />
of the fastener with a UV resistant sealant. Adhesive may also be used in lieu of<br />
a fastener at the starting end of the tile as long as the structural member has<br />
been cantilevered to provide a base for adhesive attachment.<br />
2) Prior to installing the hip starter tile, apply a code-approved roof tile adhesive<br />
along the entire length of the hip starter tile according to the adhesive<br />
manufacturers installation instructions. Secure the head of the tile with<br />
mechanical fastener embedding into structural support, a minimum of ”.<br />
3) Prior to installing the hip starter tile, place a full bed of only FBC codeapproved<br />
pre-bagged mortar according to the mortar manufacturers<br />
installations instructions under the entire hip starter tile. Within 2 minutes of<br />
placing the bed of mortar, embed the entire hip starter into the solid bed of<br />
mortar. Secure the head of the tile with mechanical fastener embedding into<br />
structural support, a minimum of ” . Point mortar to desired finish. When<br />
using this mortar method for securing the starter hip tile, ensure<br />
underlayment is approved for use with mortar-set applications.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 19 of 30<br />
5.4 Hip and Ridge Tiles Mechanically Attached to Structural Support<br />
5.4.1 Prior to installing subsequent hip/ridge tiles place a minimum 4” to 5” bead of FBC<br />
approved roof tile adhesive along the head of the hip starter tile. Install the next hip<br />
tile, centering over the wood frame and lapping the starter tile a minimum of 2”.<br />
(See Drawing 8). If the overlap is restricted by product design, refer to the tile<br />
manufacturers installation instructions. Continue in same manner working from the<br />
lowest point toward the highest point of the roof. At intersecting junctions (i.e.<br />
hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley) cut tile to form a solid fit and ensure the first<br />
and the last hip/ridge tile is securely fastened. Any exposed fasteners must be<br />
sealed with a UV resistant sealant.<br />
5.4.2 Optional: Prior to installing the tiles at these adjoining junctions, place a full bed<br />
(filling entire cavity) of FBC approved pre-bagged mortar under the entire<br />
adjoining hip/ridge tile. Embed the entire hip/ridge tile into the solid bed of mortar.<br />
Point mortar to desired finish. Fasten as mentioned above. Use the three methods<br />
under Note 5 above as guidelines and/or options at these junctions.<br />
6.0 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System<br />
6.1. Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System – Structural Support Options<br />
6.1.1 Adhesive-set hip and ridge tiles can be installed directly to a structural support. The<br />
most common structural supports are:<br />
1) Wood Hip and Ridge Frame (See Drawings 4, 5, &amp; 6)<br />
2) Metal Hip and Ridge Frame (Metal Channel) (See Drawing 14)<br />
6.1.2. Determine how you want to attach the wood hip and ridge frame to the substrate. The three<br />
most common methods to attach the wood hip and ridge frame to the substrate are:<br />
1) Metal Brackets – (See Drawing 4)<br />
2) Metal Straps – (See Drawing 5)<br />
3) FBC approved Adhesive – (See Drawings 15 &amp; 17)<br />
6.1.3. Attachment of the wood or metal hip and ridge frame to the substrate must be according to<br />
Table 11 of the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual or according<br />
to the HVHZ requirements of the FBC. (See Appendix A for a copy of the FRSA/TRI<br />
Table 11).<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 20 of 30<br />
Drawing 14<br />
6.2 Adhesive Weather Blocking System Options<br />
6.2.1 Once the attachment method has been completed a choice has to be made on the<br />
weather blocking method. The two most common methods are:<br />
1) FBC Approved Adhesive Tested as a Weather Blocking System –<br />
(See Drawings 15 and 17)<br />
2) (Pre-bagged or Jobsite Mix) Mortar Weather Blocking System –<br />
(See Drawings 11,12 and 13)<br />
6.2.2. Adhesive Used as a Weather Block<br />
6.2.2.1.This system uses adhesive as weather blocking system. There is no mortar<br />
placed along the longitudinal edges of the hip and ridge tile. Adhesive is placed<br />
where the field tile abuts to the structural support. A bead of adhesive is placed<br />
parallel to the hip and/or ridge board tile junction to act as a weather block and<br />
is applied prior to the attachment of the hip and ridge tile.<br />
6.2.2.2.Install adhesive to seal all voids between the field tile and the structural support<br />
according to the adhesive manufacturers recommendations. Care should be<br />
taken to ensure all areas are sealed with adhesive to prevent water entry.<br />
(See Drawing 15)<br />
Install according to Table 21 of the<br />
FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay<br />
Roof Tile Installation Manual<br />
or<br />
the recommendations of HVHZ<br />
of the Florida Building Code<br />
Metal Hip and Ridge Frame<br />
Seal nail penetration<br />
with Plastic Cement<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 21 of 30<br />
Drawing 15<br />
6.2.3 Mortar Used as a Weather Block<br />
6.2.3.1 This system uses mortar as weather blocking system and for aesthetics. A full<br />
bed of mortar is placed along the longitudinal edges of the hip and ridge tile<br />
either during the application of the hip and ridge tiles or may be packed in<br />
after the hip and ridge tiles are installed and the adhesive has cured. The hip<br />
and ridge tiles are adhesive-set to the structural support in addition to the<br />
mortar.<br />
6.2.3.2 Install mortar to seal all voids between the field tile and the hip/ridge tile<br />
according to the mortar manufacturers recommendations. Care should be taken<br />
to ensure enough mortar is used, to create a wedge, to eliminate the potential<br />
of the mortar from dislodging from the hip/ridge and field tile junction. Ensure<br />
areas are sealed to prevent water entry. After mortar is packed into place point<br />
mortar to desired finish. (See Drawings 11, 12 &amp; 13)<br />
..<br />
Adhesive used as weather blocking<br />
Structural<br />
support<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. .. &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
Adhesive sealing<br />
tile to structural<br />
support.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 22 of 30<br />
6.3. Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment<br />
6.3.1 Starting at the eave, and prior to installing the hip starter, place a bead or paddy of FBC<br />
approved roof tile adhesive parallel to and on top of the wood or metal frame according to<br />
the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. An alternate method is to place the adhesive in<br />
the center of the underside of the hip/ridge tile, turn hip/ridge tile over and carefully place<br />
and center the tile over the structural support. The method of the paddy placement<br />
location must be representative of how the adhesive manufacturer tested the hip and ridge<br />
attachment method.<br />
6.3.2 At the eave, place first hip (starter) tile over the metal or wood hip frame, positioning the<br />
tile in the center of the frame. Install the hip starter tile over the adhesive paddy or bead.<br />
Fasten hip tiles when the roof slope is greater than 7:12. The fasteners hold the tiles in<br />
place until the adhesive can cure.<br />
6.3.3 Optional: Prior to installing subsequent hip tiles, Place a minimum 4” bead of codeapproved<br />
roof tile adhesive along the head of the hip starter tile.<br />
6.4 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment<br />
6.4.1 Install the next hip tile, centering over the frame and lapping the starter tile a minimum of<br />
2”. (See Drawings 16, 17 &amp; 18). If the overlap is restricted by product design, refer to the<br />
tile manufacturers installation instructions. Continue in same manner working from the<br />
lowest point toward the highest point of the roof. At intersecting junctions (i.e. hip/ridge,<br />
ridge/gable, ridge/valley) cut tile to form a solid fit and ensure the first and the last<br />
hip/ridge tile is securely fastened. Any exposed fasteners must be sealed with a UV<br />
resistant sealant.<br />
6.4.2 Optional: Prior to installing the tiles at these adjoining junctions, place a full bed (filling<br />
entire cavity) of FBC approved pre-bagged mortar under the entire adjoining hip/ridge<br />
tile. Embed the entire hip/ridge tile into the solid bed of mortar. Point mortar to desired<br />
finish. Fasten as mentioned above. Use the three methods under section 5.3.3 above as<br />
guidelines and/or options at these junctions.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 23 of 30<br />
Drawing 16<br />
Drawing 17<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.. &#8230; &#8230;&#8230;<br />
For slopes greater the 7:12<br />
fasten with nail or screw<br />
to structural support Optional: Install code approved<br />
Fasten structural support adhesive at hip/ridge tile overlaps<br />
accordingFRSA/TRI<br />
Manual or the HVHZ<br />
of the FBC.<br />
Seal field tile to<br />
metal or wood<br />
frame with adhesive<br />
Tile overlap<br />
Adhesive-set Hip/Ridge Tile Using Adhesive as Weather Blocking<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; . .<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
..<br />
..<br />
Mortar to seal<br />
gable end<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
Install code-approved adhesive<br />
on top of structural support<br />
according to adhesive<br />
manufacturers instructions<br />
&#8230;. .. &#8230;. . . . .<br />
&#8230; .<br />
. . . . . . &#8230;.. &#8230; &#8230;&#8230;<br />
Embed tile into<br />
mortar bed both<br />
sides of hip/ridge or<br />
pack mortar into<br />
void after hip and<br />
ridge tiles are installed<br />
and adhesive has cured<br />
Point mortar to<br />
match tile finish<br />
Tile overlap<br />
Attaching Hip/Ridge Tile with Adhesive Using Mortar as Weather Blocking<br />
For slopes greater the 7:12<br />
fasten with nail or screw to<br />
structural support Optional: Install code approved<br />
adhesive at hip/ridge tile overlaps<br />
Structural support according<br />
FRSA/TRI Manual or the<br />
HVHZ of the FBC<br />
(metal shown)<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
Install code-approved adhesive<br />
on top of structural support<br />
according to adhesive<br />
manufacturers Product Approval or<br />
the HVHZ of the FBC<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 24 of 30<br />
Drawing 18<br />
7. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System<br />
7.1. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment limitations<br />
7.1.1 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System can only be used with field tile<br />
attachment Systems Three and Four ‘B’ and can only be installed with pre-bagged<br />
FBC approved (specifically according to Rule 9B-72) mortar tested to determine<br />
the limitations of the product application.<br />
7.2. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment<br />
7.2.1 Prior to installing any hip/ridge tile, a full solid bed of mortar is placed at the eave<br />
end of the hip or ridge starter tile and parallel to the hip and/or ridge structural<br />
support under where the longitudinal edge of the hip/ridge tile is to be placed. (See<br />
Drawings 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 &amp; 24) For Medium, High or Two-piece Barrel<br />
profiled tiles, it will be necessary to stack 10” trowel full of mortar on top of each<br />
other in the pan portions of the tile, to get the proper height of the mortar to<br />
properly embed the hip/ridge tile 1 ” into the mortar bed. (See Drawing 22)<br />
Pre-bagged or job site mixed<br />
mortar may be used for<br />
weather blocking areas only.<br />
When used as a structural<br />
attachment only FBC approved<br />
pre-bagged mortar is allowed.<br />
Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tile using Mortar as a Weather Block<br />
Embed hip/ridge tile into<br />
mortar or pack with mortar and<br />
point to match tile finish<br />
&#8230;&#8230; ..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
For slopes greater than 7:12<br />
attach with a nail or screw<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
&#8230;.<br />
..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;..<br />
.. ..<br />
..<br />
&#8230;. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
Adhesive used to attach<br />
tile and structural support<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 25 of 30<br />
Drawing 19<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;.<br />
.. &#8230;&#8230; &#8230;. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.<br />
Stack an additional trowel(s) full of mortar in the<br />
pan portion of the tile, as needed, to get the<br />
proper height of mortar to properly embed the<br />
hip/ridge tile 1 1/2&#8243; into the mortar bed.<br />
Proper Height of Mortar Bed<br />
7.2.2. Apply enough FBC approved mortar to fill the entire hip/ridge starter tile cavity<br />
with mortar. Apply the remaining hip/ridge tile per mortar manufacturer’s<br />
instructions. Care should be made to minimize the placing of mortar too far in front<br />
of laying tile to minimize mortar dehydration.<br />
7.2.3. Position hip starter tile over the center of the hip junction. Embed the hip starter tile<br />
into the full bed of mortar. Some mortar will be forced out of the cavity. Remove<br />
excess mortar and point to desired finish.<br />
7.2.4. Care must be taken to embed the tile into the mortar a minimum of 1 ”. (Do not<br />
just fill the voids of the tile edges with mortar). The packing of mortar into the<br />
cavities between the hip/ridge tiles and the field tile are not allow for the structural<br />
attachment of the hip and ridge tiles. The tile must be embedded into the mortar.<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 26 of 30<br />
Drawing 20<br />
7.3 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment<br />
7.3.1 Position and install the next hip tile, centering over the hip junction and lapping the<br />
starter tile a minimum of 2”. Embed the tile into the mortar bed a minimum of 1<br />
”. (See Drawing 22). If the overlap is restricted by product design, refer to the<br />
tile manufacturers installation instructions. Continue in same manner working from<br />
the lowest point toward the highest point of the roof. At intersecting junctions (i.e.<br />
hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley) cut tile to form a solid fit and ensure the first<br />
and the last hip/ridge tile is securely fastened. Any exposed fasteners must be<br />
sealed with a UV resistant sealant.<br />
7.3.2 At all junctions (i.e. hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley etc.) fill all voids with<br />
mortar. Prior to installing the junction tiles a bed of mortar must be placed to<br />
minimize any cracking of the mortar. These cut or mitered tile must be embedded<br />
into the mortar. Point mortar to desired finish.<br />
7.3.3 Optional: The entire cavity of the hip and ridge tile may be filled a bed of mortar<br />
in lieu of longitudinal beads placed parallel to the hip and ridge junction.<br />
(See Drawing 20)<br />
Use only FBC approved mortar that has<br />
been tested according to ICC &#8211; SSTD-11<br />
and has data substantiating compliance.<br />
Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Embedment into Mortar<br />
Point to match tile finish<br />
For the starter hip or ridge tile<br />
fill entire cavity with mortar<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;&#8230;..<br />
&#8230;. &#8230;. &#8230;.<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;.. ..<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 27 of 30<br />
Drawing 21<br />
Drawing 22<br />
Embed hip/ridge minimum 1 1/2&#8243; into<br />
3&#8243; bed of mortar prior to pointing up<br />
mortar for a finished appearance.Do<br />
not pack mortar into cavity.<br />
1 1/2&#8243; 3&#8243; 1 1/2&#8243;<br />
Use only FBC approved pre-bagged mortar that has<br />
been tested according to ICC &#8211; SSTD-11<br />
and has data substantiating compliance.<br />
Hip and Ridge Embedment into Mortar<br />
10&#8243;<br />
Continue in same manner lapping<br />
previously applied mortar paddy 3&#8243;<br />
Apply a minimum 10&#8243; trowel full of mortar<br />
parallel to hip or ridge<br />
Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Attachment<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 28 of 30<br />
Drawing 23<br />
Drawing 24<br />
Use only FBC approved pre-bagged<br />
mortar tested according to ICC &#8211; SSTD-11<br />
with data substantiating compliance.<br />
Hip and Ridge Embedment into Mortar<br />
Point to mortar to<br />
desired finish<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;. &#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
&#8230;&#8230;.. ..<br />
&#8230;. .. &#8230;. . . . .<br />
&#8230; .<br />
. . . . . . &#8230;.. &#8230; &#8230;&#8230;<br />
Embed tile minimum a<br />
1 1/2&#8243; into mortar bed<br />
Point mortar to<br />
desired finish<br />
Tile overlap<br />
Attaching Hip/Ridge Tile with FBC Product Approved Mortar Only<br />
.. .. .. .. .. .. &#8230;&#8230; .. .. .. .. .. .. .. &#8230;. .. .. &#8230;. ..<br />
.. &#8230;&#8230; .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. &#8230;.<br />
.. &#8230;. .. .. .. .. &#8230;.<br />
.. .. .. .. .. &#8230;. .. .. &#8230;. &#8230;&#8230; .. .. .. .. .. ..<br />
.. .. .. ..<br />
.. ..<br />
..<br />
.. ..<br />
.. ..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
..<br />
.. .. &#8230;&#8230; &#8230;. ..<br />
..<br />
Full bed of FBC approved<br />
pre-bagged mortar<br />
Metal or wood<br />
Structural support<br />
Metal or wood<br />
Cantilever of<br />
structural support<br />
(wood shown)<br />
2&#8243; x (H)&#8221;<br />
2&#8243; x (H)&#8221; notched out<br />
Metal Frame<br />
Screws<br />
10d nails or screws to penetratemin. 3/4&#8243;<br />
12&#8243; 6&#8243;<br />
Hip End Cantilever Options<br />
Cantilever areaMin. 2&#8243; x 2&#8243;<br />
12&#8243; 6&#8243;<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 29 of 30<br />
Drawing 25<br />
􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀖􀀓􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀖􀀓􀀃<br />
􀀫􀁌􀁓􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀵􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀶􀁘􀁓􀁓􀁒􀁕􀁗􀀃􀀰􀁈􀁐􀁅􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀤􀁗􀁗􀁄􀁆􀁋􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀀃􀀵􀁈􀁆􀁒􀁐􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁇􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀁖􀀃<br />
􀀫􀁒􀁚􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁘􀁖􀁈􀀃􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀔􀀝<br />
􀀔􀀑 􀀧􀁈􀁗􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀀨􀁛􀁓􀁒􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀋􀀶􀁈􀁈􀀃􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀓􀀘􀀌􀀑<br />
􀀕􀀑 􀀧􀁈􀁗􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁎􀁑􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀖􀀑 􀀧􀁈􀁗􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁌􀁆􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀗􀀑 􀀩􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁒􀁚􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁌􀁊􀁋􀁗􀀏􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁌􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁊􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁈􀁕􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁉􀁕􀁒􀁐􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁓􀁖􀀃􀀔􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁕􀁒􀁘􀁊􀁋􀀃􀀖􀀃􀁄􀁅􀁒􀁙􀁈􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀸􀁑􀁇􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁄􀁓􀁓􀁕􀁒􀁓􀁕􀁌􀁄􀁗􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁌􀁆􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁏􀁘􀁐􀁑􀀏􀀃􀁏􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀐􀁗􀁒􀀐􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃<br />
􀁈􀁌􀁗􀁋􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁄􀀃􀃴􀂴􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀀃􀁘􀁖􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀔􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁄􀁑􀀃􀀔􀀃􀃲􀂴􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀀃􀁘􀁖􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀕􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀁖􀀝<br />
􀀔􀀑 􀀷􀁋􀁈􀁖􀁈􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁖􀀃􀁚􀁈􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁄􀁆􀁗􀁘􀁄􀁏􀀃􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀐􀁗􀁒􀀐􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀕􀀑 􀀰􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁎􀁑􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀘􀀒􀀖􀀕􀂴􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀖􀀑 􀀶􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀁖􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁋􀁄􀁙􀁈􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁈􀁑􀁖􀁌􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁈􀁑􀁊􀁗􀁋􀀃􀀋􀀩􀁘􀀌􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁏􀁇􀀐􀁕􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀗􀀕􀀃􀁎􀁖􀁌􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃<br />
􀀧􀁈􀁖􀁌􀁊􀁑􀀃􀁜􀁌􀁈􀁏􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁈􀁑􀁊􀁗􀁋􀀃􀀋􀁉􀁜􀀌􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁏􀁇􀀐􀁕􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀕􀀘􀀃􀁎􀁖􀁌􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁒􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁒􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃<br />
􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀓􀀙􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀓􀀚􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀔􀀔􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀘􀀖􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀚􀀔􀀘􀀞􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀚􀀜􀀕􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀗􀀑 􀀰􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁎􀁑􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀁖􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀀕􀀙􀀃􀁊􀁄􀁘􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀋􀀓􀀑􀀓􀀔􀀚􀀜􀂴􀀌􀀃􀁅􀁈􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁄􀁓􀁓􀁏􀁌􀁆􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁕􀁕􀁒􀁖􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃<br />
􀀵􀁈􀁖􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀁓􀁕􀁒􀁗􀁈􀁆􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀘􀀑 􀀆􀀛􀀃􀁚􀁒􀁒􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁄􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀰􀀨􀀃􀀒􀀃􀀤􀀱􀀶􀀬􀀃􀀥􀀔􀀛􀀑􀀙􀀑􀀔􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀙􀀑 􀀆􀀛􀀃􀁚􀁒􀁒􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁋􀁄􀁙􀁈􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁈􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀏􀀃􀁄􀁑􀀃􀁈􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀏􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁈􀁗􀁚􀁈􀁈􀁑􀀃<br />
􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀃲􀂴􀀑􀀃􀀷􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀚􀀑 􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀔􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀬􀀬􀀃􀁅􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀁖􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁗􀁋􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁑􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁋􀁈􀁌􀁊􀁋􀁗􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀙􀀓􀂶􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁏􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀛􀀑 􀀷􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁑􀁒􀁗􀀃􀁏􀁒􀁆􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁌􀁖􀁒􀁏􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁋􀁌􀁏􀁏􀁖􀀏􀀃􀁕􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀁖􀀏􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁈􀁖􀁆􀁄􀁕􀁓􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁖􀀏􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁖􀁗􀁌􀁗􀁘􀁗􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃<br />
􀀤􀁅􀁕􀁘􀁓􀁗􀀃􀁆􀁋􀁄􀁑􀁊􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁌􀁑􀀃􀁊􀁈􀁑􀁈􀁕􀁄􀁏􀀃􀁗􀁒􀁓􀁒􀁊􀁕􀁄􀁓􀁋􀁜􀀏􀀃􀁚􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁋􀀃􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀀐􀁘􀁓􀀃􀁈􀁉􀁉􀁈􀁆􀁗􀁖􀀑􀀃<br />
􀀵􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃 􀀱􀁘􀁐􀁅􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃<br />
􀀶􀁋􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁑􀁊 􀀩􀁄􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁑􀁈􀁕􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁈􀁄􀁆􀁋 􀀔􀀓􀀓 􀀔􀀔􀀓 􀀔􀀕􀀓 􀀔􀀖􀀓 􀀔􀀗􀀓 􀀔􀀘􀀓<br />
􀀋􀁌􀁑􀁆􀁋􀁈􀁖􀀌 􀁖􀁌􀁇􀁈􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀵􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀥􀁒􀁄􀁕􀁇<br />
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀖􀀙 􀀕􀀜 􀀕􀀘 􀀕􀀔 􀀔􀀛 􀀔􀀙<br />
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀖 􀀖􀀙 􀀖􀀔 􀀕􀀚<br />
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀕􀀚 􀀕􀀕 􀀔􀀛 􀀔􀀙 􀀔􀀖 􀀔􀀕<br />
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀙 􀀖􀀛 􀀖􀀕 􀀕􀀚 􀀕􀀖 􀀕􀀓<br />
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀖􀀛 􀀖􀀕 􀀕􀀗 􀀕􀀕 􀀔􀀜 􀀔􀀚<br />
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀖 􀀖􀀙 􀀖􀀔 􀀕􀀚<br />
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀕􀀜 􀀕􀀗 􀀕􀀓 􀀔􀀚 􀀔􀀗 􀀔􀀕<br />
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀙 􀀖􀀛 􀀖􀀕 􀀕􀀚 􀀕􀀖 􀀕􀀓<br />
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀔􀀝 􀀩􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀥􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀧􀁈􀁉􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃􀀶􀁈􀁈􀀃􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀓􀀗􀀑<br />
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀕􀀝 􀀩􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀨􀁛􀁓􀁒􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁌􀁈􀁖􀀃􀀶􀁈􀁈􀀃􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀓􀀘􀀑<br />
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀖􀀝 􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀦􀀨􀀃􀀚􀀐􀀓􀀕􀀑􀀃􀀨􀁖􀁖􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁌􀁄􀁏􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀫􀁄􀁝􀁄􀁕􀁇􀁒􀁘􀁖􀀃􀀩􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁏􀁌􀁗􀁌􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁋􀁄􀁙􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁄􀁑􀀃􀀬􀁐􀁓􀁒􀁕􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀀩􀁄􀁆􀁗􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀔􀀑􀀔􀀘<br />
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀗􀀝 􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁊􀁒􀁒􀁇􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀪􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀫􀁌􀁓􀀃􀀵􀁒􀁒􀁉􀁖􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀵􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀶􀁏􀁒􀁓􀁈􀁖􀀃􀀃􀀕􀀝􀀔􀀕􀀃􀀟􀀃􀀢􀀃􀀟􀀃􀀠􀀃􀀔􀀕􀀝􀀔􀀕􀀑􀀃􀀰􀁒􀁑􀁒􀁖􀁏􀁒􀁓􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁏􀁒􀁓􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁄􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁑􀁒􀁗􀀃􀁄􀁇􀁇􀁕􀁈􀁖􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀑<br />
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀘􀀝 􀀩􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁑􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁋􀁈􀁌􀁊􀁋􀁗􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁙􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀙􀀓􀀃􀁉􀁈􀁈􀁗􀀏􀀃􀁈􀁑􀁊􀁌􀁑􀁈􀁈􀁕􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁆􀁄􀁏􀁆􀁘􀁏􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀁖􀀃􀁐􀁘􀁖􀁗􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀁖􀁘􀁅􀁐􀁌􀁗􀁗􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁓􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁗􀁗􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀑<br />
􀀦<br />
􀀔􀀜􀀒􀀖􀀕􀀅<br />
􀀨􀁛􀁓􀁒􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈<br />
􀀔􀀘􀀒􀀖􀀕􀀅<br />
􀀦<br />
􀀥<br />
􀀥<br />
􀀦􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀀦􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀶􀁓􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀋􀁌􀁑􀁆􀁋􀁈􀁖􀀌<br />
􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀔<br />
􀀫􀁌􀁓􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀵􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀶􀁘􀁓􀁓􀁒􀁕􀁗􀀃􀀰􀁈􀁐􀁅􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀤􀁗􀁗􀁄􀁆􀁋􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀀃􀀵􀁈􀁆􀁒􀁐􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁇􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀁖<br />
􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀬􀀬􀀃􀀥􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀁖<br />
􀀥􀁄􀁖􀁌􀁆􀀃􀀺􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀶􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀁖􀀏􀀃􀀹􀀃􀀋􀁐􀁓􀁋􀀌<br />
􀀶􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀀃􀀺􀁌􀁇􀁗􀁋<br />
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005<br />
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions</p>
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		<title>Install Factory Buildt Chimney</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2008 21:02:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Factory Built Chimney]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[EXCEL TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Materials:
Exterior (casing): .015” Type 434 Stainless Steel
Interior (flue): .015” Type 304 Stainless Steel
Insulation: ICC “Thermoplus” Blanket
Inside Diameter 5 Inch 6 Inch 7 Inch 8 Inch
Outside diameter 7” 8” 9” 10”
Weight/Foot (lb/ft.) 3.6 4.2 4.9 5.3
Rough Opening Required
Clearance to combustibles
Round support (ERDS &#38; ES) 10” X 10” 10” X 10” 11” X 11” 12” [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=5&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>EXCEL TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS<br />
Materials:<br />
Exterior (casing): .015” Type 434 Stainless Steel<br />
Interior (flue): .015” Type 304 Stainless Steel<br />
Insulation: ICC “Thermoplus” Blanket<br />
Inside Diameter 5 Inch 6 Inch 7 Inch 8 Inch<br />
Outside diameter 7” 8” 9” 10”<br />
Weight/Foot (lb/ft.) 3.6 4.2 4.9 5.3<br />
Rough Opening Required<br />
Clearance to combustibles<br />
Round support (ERDS &amp; ES) 10” X 10” 10” X 10” 11” X 11” 12” X 12”<br />
Square support (ESS) N/A 10” X 10” 11” X 11” 12” X 12”<br />
Roof support (ERS) 11” X 11” 12” X 12” 13” X 13” 14” X 14”<br />
Offset support (EOS) 11” X 11” 12” X 12” 13” X 13” 14” X 14”<br />
Radiation shields 11” X 11” 12” X 12” 13” X 13” 14” X 14”<br />
(ERS &amp;ERSA)<br />
Wall radiation shield (EWRS) 10” X 10” 10” X 10” 11” X 11” 12” X 12”<br />
Maximum Support Capacity<br />
Round support (ERDS &amp; ES) 65 feet 55 feet 50 feet 45 feet<br />
Square support (ESS) N/A 55 feet 50 feet 45 feet<br />
Roof support (ERS) 65 feet 55 feet 50 feet 45 feet<br />
Wall support (EWS) 50 feet 44 feet 37 feet 35 feet<br />
Offset support (EOS) 35 feet 30 feet 27 feet 25 feet<br />
Radiation shields must be used at all floor joist and ceiling areas<br />
2” or as established by factory<br />
built supports and firestops<br />
CREOSOTE AND SOOT &#8211; Formation and need for removal<br />
When wood is burned slowly it produces tar and other organic vapours,<br />
which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote<br />
vapours condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning<br />
fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When<br />
ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.<br />
COAL<br />
Some coals contain large quantities of Sulphur (up to 7%). When coal is<br />
burned, Sulphur and coal ash are deposited in the chimney flue. This<br />
deposit combines with moisture to form a highly corrosive acid (Sulphuric<br />
Acid).<br />
In order to protect your chimney, we recommend that you:<br />
1. Burn only low Sulphur coals (less than 1% Sulphur).<br />
2. Have your chimney cleaned within 48 hours of shutting down your<br />
stove at the end of the heating season. Be certain that all the soot is<br />
removed.<br />
WOOD AND COAL STOVES<br />
If you are planning to install a wood stove, we recommend that you:<br />
1. Choose a stove that has a label of a recognized Testing Laboratory<br />
(such as WH, ULC, ULC, CSA). The EPA approved, low emissions<br />
stoves are highly recommended.<br />
2. Connect only one solid fuel burning appliance to a chimney. Do not<br />
connect an oil or gas burning appliance to a chimney venting a solid<br />
fuel burning appliance.<br />
3. Never over fire your stove. If any part of the stove or stove pipe is<br />
glowing red, then you are over firing. Immediately close the stove’s<br />
damper until the system cools. The high temperatures caused by over<br />
firing can permanently damage the stove and stove pipe and may overheat<br />
nearby combustible walls and furniture.<br />
4. Install the stove and stove pipe as described in the Installation<br />
Instructions accompanying the stove. BE CERTAIN TO MAINTAIN<br />
THE REQUIRED CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLE<br />
CONSTRUCTION.<br />
5. Keep your flue gases between 300°F and 500°F. This will maximize<br />
efficiency while minimizing condensation and creosote formation.<br />
6. Do not burn sea driftwood. Salt is highly corrosive to all types of<br />
stainless steel. Do not burn treated lumber.<br />
EXCEL Canada 3 Owner&#8217;s Manual EXCEL Canada 4 Owner&#8217;s Manual</p>
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		<title>Metal Roof Installation</title>
		<link>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/metal-roof-installation/</link>
		<comments>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/metal-roof-installation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2008 20:59:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Metal Roofing]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Metal Roof
F, F3, F4, Se or SD &#8211; SERIES INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT: READ THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU
START TO INSTALL YOUR SKYLIGHT. Be sure you have all the tools and materials needed
for the job. Allow at least 3 hours on a day with suitable weather to do the job.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED
1. Pencil
2. Square
3. Utility Knife
4. [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=4&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>Metal Roof<br />
F, F3, F4, Se or SD &#8211; SERIES INSTALLATION<br />
INSTRUCTIONS<br />
IMPORTANT: READ THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU<br />
START TO INSTALL YOUR SKYLIGHT. Be sure you have all the tools and materials needed<br />
for the job. Allow at least 3 hours on a day with suitable weather to do the job.<br />
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED<br />
1. Pencil<br />
2. Square<br />
3. Utility Knife<br />
4. Hammer<br />
5. Hand Saw<br />
6. Insulation<br />
7. Tape Measure<br />
8. Butyl Caulk<br />
9. Tin Snips<br />
10. Screwdriver<br />
11. Sheet Metal Screw #8&#215;1/2<br />
12. Common 10d nails<br />
13. 2&#215;4s or 2&#215;2s<br />
14. Mouldings, Wood Finish<br />
15. Drywall, Paneling or Ceiling tile<br />
for tunnel<br />
RETROFIT APPLICATION<br />
1. Mark the ceiling location for your skylight. Try to install between the<br />
rafters to minimize your work (reference section 3). Before cutting, carefuly<br />
check for electrical wiring above the ceiling. A carefully cut inspection hole<br />
should be used. Cut and remove ceiling and insulation.<br />
2. Make a 3/8 or 1/2 thick plywood backer board to fit on top of the<br />
rafters under the roof sheet metal. This backer board is used to give the<br />
skylight mounting screws an attachment under the thin sheet metal<br />
roof. The hole in the backer board is the same size as the skylight<br />
roof opening. The backerboard outside dimensions are the same or<br />
larger than the overall dimensions of the skylight. flanges.<br />
Skylight Backer Board<br />
Metal<br />
Roof<br />
Rafters<br />
House Ceiling<br />
Skylight Roof<br />
Size Opening A B C D E<br />
1616 14.5x14.5 26.5 26.5 6 5 7<br />
1624 14.5x22.5 26.5 34.5 6 5 7<br />
1632 14.5x30.5 26.5 42.5 6 5 7<br />
1648 14.5x46.5 26.5 42.5 6 5 7<br />
2424 22.5x22.5 34.5 34.5 6 5 7<br />
2432 22.5x30.5 34.5 42.5 6 5 7<br />
2448 22.5x46.5 34.5 58.5 6 5 7<br />
3232 30.5x30.5 42.5 42.5 6 5 7<br />
3248 30.5x46.5 42.5 58.5 6 5 7<br />
4848 46.5x46.5 58.5 58.5 6 5 7<br />
ROOF OPENING &#8211; Maximum roof<br />
opening must be 1.5 under the<br />
skylight size, either direction.<br />
i.e., 16x16 skylight has a roof<br />
opening of 14.5x14.5<br />
A<br />
B<br />
C<br />
D<br />
E<br />
RETROFIT APPLICATION, WHERE<br />
APPLICABLE<br />
3. Locate the roof openings directly above the hole in the ceiling (use a<br />
square). Draw lines perpendicular with the room ceiling up to the<br />
underside of the roof. Use a sharp object like an awl or ice pick to<br />
push four dents or holes in the roof. This defines the corners of the<br />
skylight opening on to the roof. Use 2 x 4s or 2 x 2s to frame the<br />
tunnel up to the roof. Make sure all ceiling and tunnel paneling<br />
edges are supported.<br />
4. On top of the roof, locate the awl or icepick dents and mark the<br />
dotted cut lines.<br />
The cut lines on many roofs can be deeply scribed with a utility<br />
knife and peeled open like a rooftop tin can. If the roof metal is too thick<br />
to peel, use tin snips. Fold the one inch wide edges over flat on top of the<br />
roof and nail onto the backer board and rafter.<br />
Dry wall or<br />
Paneling<br />
2&#215;4<br />
2&#215;2<br />
Optional: Corner<br />
Moulding<br />
(installed over<br />
panelling nails at<br />
each corner)<br />
Topview of Tunnel Frame Ceiling of Home<br />
September 1999<br />
Corner Dents or<br />
Holes<br />
The slit allows backer board to be slipped under roofing<br />
material on one side and turned a full circle to get it<br />
under the sheet metal.<br />
Slit<br />
5. ALL CAULKING IS TO BE APPLIED TO SKYLIGHT BEFORE MOUNTING. Do not remove protective plastic<br />
cover from the glaze until the skylight is completely installed. Center the skylight above roofing (holding the<br />
skylight away from the roof surface). When you are satisfied with the location, rest the skylight on the roof. Be<br />
sure bottom pane is resting on the roof around the entire perimeter. Install the fasteners, first from the center<br />
of each side and work to each corner. Tighten the fasteners only to the point when you can visually see<br />
uniform compresssion of the caulk. Do not over-tighten fasteners, as it will distort the material making sealing<br />
more difficult. Apply additional caulk to cover screws and to fill any voids around the perimeter, smooth excess<br />
by hand. Finish interior tunnel and then remove the protective plastic from the interior glaze WARNING:<br />
BOTTOM PANE MUST BE SUPPORTED!<br />
SUGGESTED INTERIOR FINISH<br />
Clean plastic with soap and water<br />
ONLY.<br />
6. Insulate tunnel with fiber glass batts stapled or taped in<br />
place. Cut tunnel wall panels from matching ceiling or paneling<br />
and nail in place<br />
Recommend minimum insulation R factor<br />
of R-11<br />
TOP VIEW OF CAULK LINES<br />
F MODEL<br />
Fastener Hole<br />
Butyl Caulk<br />
B A<br />
Maximum Roof Opening Metal Roof<br />
Wallboard Backer Board<br />
Roof Truss or Header<br />
F3 MODEL<br />
Butyl Caulk<br />
Backer Board<br />
B A<br />
Roof Truss or Header<br />
Wall board<br />
Mounting<br />
Holes<br />
Side<br />
Caulk<br />
Caulk<br />
1 1/2<br />
1/2<br />
Mounting Hole<br />
Butyl Caulk 1/2 dia.<br />
(Not Compressed)<br />
Caulk Lower Fastener Hole.<br />
Apply approximately 1.5 long<br />
Caulk line directly over the<br />
mounting holes<br />
Lower Flange<br />
Butyl Caulk<br />
NOTE: No Caulk on<br />
lower edge<br />
Butyl Caulk Application applied on the<br />
flange of the skylight (before mounting).<br />
Butyl tapes are acceptable instead of<br />
Caulk.<br />
Row A Caulk Line &#8211; 1/2 min<br />
diameter (noncompressed) location,<br />
just inside pre-drilled fastener holes,<br />
along top and both sides<br />
Open Space &#8211; between caulk<br />
beads to allow water drainage<br />
Row B Caulk Line &#8211; 5/8 &#8211; 3/4<br />
diameter (noncompressed) caulk bead,<br />
the bead to be around the full perimeter<br />
of the inner glaze.<br />
Roof Deck<br />
Surface<br />
Top Flange</p>
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		<title>Installing a Slate roof</title>
		<link>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/installing-a-slate-roof/</link>
		<comments>http://roofinstall.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/installing-a-slate-roof/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2008 20:50:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Slate Roof]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[IINSTALLIING A SLATE ROOF — THE BASIICS
Adapted and excerpted from the Slate Roof Bible
Written for the Timberframers Quarterly
By Joseph Jenkins
Copyright, 2004: Joseph Jenkins, Inc.
143 Forest Lane, Grove City, PA 16127 USA; Ph: 814-786-9085
Portions of this publication may be reproduced subject to the following conditions: 1. The information must not be changed or altered; 2. Joseph [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=roofinstall.wordpress.com&blog=2441184&post=3&subd=roofinstall&ref=&feed=1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class='snap_preview'><br /><p>IINSTALLIING A SLATE ROOF — THE BASIICS<br />
Adapted and excerpted from the Slate Roof Bible<br />
Written for the Timberframers Quarterly<br />
By Joseph Jenkins<br />
Copyright, 2004: Joseph Jenkins, Inc.<br />
143 Forest Lane, Grove City, PA 16127 USA; Ph: 814-786-9085<br />
Portions of this publication may be reproduced subject to the following conditions: 1. The information must not be changed or altered; 2. Joseph Jenkins, Inc., 143 Forest<br />
Lane, Grove City, PA 16127 USA, ph: 866-641-7141 is credited as the source; 3. The reproduction is not done for profit without express written permission from the publisher.<br />
A slate roof is a perfect roof. It’s beautiful, natural, durable, recyclable, environmentally friendly, easy to<br />
maintain, and costs less than just about any other serious roof when the life of the roof is taken into consideration.<br />
Although there are many myths and misconceptions about installing slate roofs, there’s really nothing mysterious<br />
about building a roof of stone. The stone is dug or quarried from the earth, brought to the surface, then hand split<br />
with a hammer and chisel into thin sheets about a quarter of an inch thick. These slate shingles are then trimmed<br />
into particular shapes, usually punched for nail holes and are then ready to be installed on a roof. They typically<br />
come from American quarries already trimmed and punched, so the roof installer only needs to know how to put<br />
them on the roof. Let’s start with roof construction.<br />
ROOF CONSTRUCTION<br />
Standard traditional roof framing is sufficient to handle the weight of standard thickness slates, which are<br />
3/16” to 1/4 inch thick. Traditional roof construction includes “stick built” or timber-framed styles with board sheathing<br />
(decking). I have seen 130 year old slate roofs in good condition built on 2&#215;4 or 2&#215;5 rafters. Of course, the<br />
rafters were oak, on 16” centers, with only 8’ unsupported spans, and these are the sorts of things a builder needs<br />
to take into consideration when using a material like slate, which is three times as heavy as common asphalt shingles.<br />
What type of wood are you building with? How strong is it? What are the spans? What are the distances on<br />
center? If you want to build a roof that will easily last a century or two, follow the tried and proven traditional building<br />
styles. Use full framing members, such as 2&#215;8 or 2&#215;10 rafters, rough cut is ok, green lumber (undried) is fine.<br />
Local building materials are ideal as they stimulate the local economy, utilize local renewable resources, minimize<br />
transportation and fuel costs, and require the least amount of technology, especially when green or air dried lumber<br />
is used. Any older carpentry book will explain the spans and sizes for standard roof framing.<br />
One consideration regarding weight: the smaller the slate size, the heavier the roof. Standard roof slate<br />
sizes range from 6”x10” to 14”x24” and everything in between. The 6&#215;10 slates require 686 slates per square (a<br />
square is one hundred square feet of roof coverage), while the 14&#215;24 only require 98 slates per square.<br />
The thickness of the slates also affects the weight. Standard thickness (3/16”) slates weigh 600-700<br />
pounds per square (the smaller slates make a heavier roof). Half inch thick slates weigh double that. The smaller<br />
the slates, the more nails, more nailing, and more labor costs. A 6&#215;10 slate roof will require the nailing of 686<br />
slates to cover one hundred square feet; a 14&#215;24 slate roof will only require the nailing of 98 slates. Obviously, the<br />
larger slates will cover a roof relatively quickly, but the smaller slates can sometimes be bought quite inexpensively,<br />
and some people like the look of smaller slates.<br />
The steeper the roof slope the better, although a 10:12 slope (ten feet of rise in twelve feet of run) is common.<br />
Do not go below a 4:12 slope. When you do put roof slates on a lower slope, you must increase the overlap<br />
(headlap), which is discussed under “installation,” below.<br />
SHEATHING (DECKING)<br />
Use natural boards for the roof deck. This sheathing can be one inch rough sawn lumber, green, or air<br />
dried. It can be 3/4” kiln dried lumber, preferably a softwood like spruce, pine, or fir, as kiln dried hardwoods will<br />
not take a nail very readily, or it can be inch and a half tongue in grooved lumber, also typically softwood. The inch<br />
and a half tongue in grooved lumber is more often used on larger institutional buildings such as churches. One<br />
inch thick or 3/4” thick boards are perfectly adequate for residential construction, and can be either standard or<br />
tongue in grooved. My personal preference is one inch local rough sawn lumber, either green or air dried, and not<br />
tongue in grooved. It’s the most environmentally friendly roof decking, it lasts the longest, and it’s the least expensive.<br />
Do not use plywood, particle board, or any other laminated wood product for your roof deck. Plywood<br />
became popular as a roof sheathing material when asphalt shingles became popular. It didn’t take many years for<br />
roofers to realize that plywood delaminates, especially along the drip edges or anywhere where it becomes<br />
exposed to moisture. Rather than go back to solid lumber roof sheathing, the roofing industry invented a contact<br />
paper to protect plywood, now known as ice and water shield. Avoid plywood and you will find that ice and water<br />
shield is not needed anywhere on a slate roof. You want to build a minimum 100 year roof when making a roof of<br />
stone, so do it right —use natural wood and leave the unnecessary roofing products on the shelf where they<br />
belong.<br />
Sheath the roof deck solidly, butting the boards against each other on the sides and ends, leaving no gaps<br />
other than toe holds every few feet on steep roofs (although gaps won’t hurt anything either). Almost all wood will<br />
shrink once installed on a slate roof, due to the heat and dryness. When using green or air dried lumber, you do<br />
not have to leave an airspace between the boards. Many older slate roofs were constructed of slating lath, which is<br />
simply 1&#215;2 or 1&#215;4 strips of wood spaced apart to allow for nailing the slates. Although this traditional system does<br />
work and conserves wood, it is inferior to a solid wood deck because it makes repair, maintenance, and restoration<br />
in the later years more difficult.<br />
Cover the sheathing, no matter how green, with one layer of 30 lb. roofing felt paper, overlapped about<br />
three inches at the top edges, and nailed to the roof with 1”galvanized roofing nails (EG is OK here &#8211; see below).<br />
Felt paper isn’t absolutely necessary for the roof to function; many slate roofs (primarily barn roofs) don’t have any<br />
felt paper at all. Felt paper does, however, provide a temporary cover in the event of rain during installation, and it<br />
helps insulate and waterproof the roof, so it is recommended to use 30 lb. felt in order to do the best job.<br />
NAILS<br />
Many years ago, roof slates were hung on slating lath with a single wooden peg driven through a hole in<br />
the top center of the slate. No nails were used. Today we “hang” the slates onto the roof deck with two nails. When<br />
nailing new slates, use 1.5” copper roofing nails. When re-using old slates, a 1.5 inch hot-dipped galvanized nail<br />
will do. Make sure though, that it’s “hot-dipped” and not electrogalvanized (EG). Do not nail the slates tightly<br />
against the deck or you will break them. It’s called “overnailing.” Do not “undernail” them either, or the protruding<br />
nail head will rub against the overlying slate and wear a hole in it. Nailing slates takes some practice, but it’s not as<br />
difficult as it sounds. The nail holes come pre-punched and they’re naturally countersunk to allow the nail head a<br />
place to hide. In Europe, it has become common to hang all slates on “slate hooks.” This practice developed<br />
because the Europeans, especially the French and Germans, decided to use slates that were split very thin. The<br />
slates were so thin that a nail head could not hide in the slate, so hooks are used instead. This is another example<br />
of traditional methods being replaced for inferior, but modern (like plywood) substitutions. The best slate roof, however,<br />
is still the traditional one — nailed onto a solid wood deck.<br />
TOOLS<br />
Many people think that it’s difficult to work with slate. Wrong. Slate is a very nice material to work with,<br />
especially old roofing slates. It cuts readily, you can punch a hole in it easily, and you don’t need electrical tools,<br />
only simple hand tools. A good slate cutter looks somewhat like a paper cutter and will cut straight cuts, and even<br />
convex and concave curves. A slate hammer not only nails slates, but will punch holes in them, and even cut<br />
them. A slate ripper is a long sword-like tool that removes a slate from the roof without having to remove overlying<br />
slates even after the slate has been nailed in place. A ladder hook attaches to a ladder section and hooks over the<br />
ridge of the roof to allow for a way to get up and down on a steep roof. Roof jacks nail to the roof deck to create a<br />
platform to work from. You should have all of these tools, plus a nail belt, chalk line, utility knife, and a collection of<br />
ladders.<br />
INSTALLATION<br />
When laying out a roof in preparation for slating it, chalk lines across the entire roof area marking the top<br />
edge of every row of slate. No aluminum drip edges (as are commonly used on asphalt shingle roofs) are needed<br />
on slate roofs. When measuring for the starter slate and the first row, allow for the slate to hang beyond the drip<br />
edge of the fascia (or trim moulding) one and a half inches. The starter slates are usually made of the same size<br />
slates as those on the main roof, turned sideways and upside down (back facing out), and usually 1/4 of the length<br />
of the first one is trimmed off to allow the joints to be properly staggered in relation to the overlapping row. The rule<br />
of thumb is that all butt joints between slates should<br />
have a minimum of three inches of lateral clearance in<br />
relation to the butt joints of overlapping slates. On<br />
many old roofs the starter slates are not laid sideways,<br />
but are simply the same slates as the rest of<br />
the roof — cut short — and again the joints are staggered.<br />
In all cases, the starter slate must be laid over<br />
a shim or cant strip about 1/2 inch thick, which cants<br />
the slate at an angle comparable to the angle of the<br />
slates on the rest of the roof.<br />
The slates that run up the side of the roof should<br />
extend beyond the gable ends one full inch. Run a<br />
string up the edges of the roof to give yourself a<br />
straight edge to follow when laying the slate (tie the<br />
string to temporary nails), or chalk lines up the roof<br />
edge to align the inside edge of the slate in order to<br />
leave a one inch overhang on the outside.<br />
When you reach the top of the roof, the top rows of<br />
slates must be cut shorter in length to fit the roof.<br />
Frequently the top row, the “cap” slates, must be<br />
shimmed underneath so they’ll remain flat when the<br />
ridge iron or copper is installed; otherwise they’ll cock<br />
crookedly and look bad. They can be shimmed with<br />
pieces of slate, usually the pieces that are cut off the<br />
top rows when the slate is laid.<br />
Headlap is critical. Every slate overlaps TWO rows beneath it. The only exception is the starter row and the<br />
first row. The overlap on the second row beneath the slate is called the “headlap,” and it is typically three inches. If<br />
you do not allow for sufficient headlap you may as well not put the roof on. On lower slopes such as 4:12, you<br />
must increase the headlap to four inches. On very steep roofs (12:12 or greater) a two inch headlap may be sufficient.<br />
Rule of thumb — don’t put slate on low slopes and do use a three inch headlap when installing on steep<br />
slopes.<br />
NEVER walk on slate during the installation, or any other time. This is very important. Run the rows of slate<br />
up the roof at an angle and work from the side. Slate is not asphalt — it cannot be walked on. Don’t sit on it either.<br />
Hook ladders will keep your weight off the slate. Also, roof jacks and planks with ladders sitting on them lying on<br />
the roof are a good way to go. The ladders CAN lie on the slate.<br />
VALLEYS<br />
Be sure to use a non-corrodable metal in the valley. Twenty ounce copper or terne coated stainless steel<br />
are recommended. Valley metal flashing is installed over the felted sheathing before any slating begins. The felt<br />
paper need not overlap the valley flashing (the valley metal can be laid right on top of the felt). Remember that the<br />
felt is only a temporary covering which will become full of holes when you install the slate. It’s the SLATE that<br />
makes the roof waterproof, NOT the felt underlayment! This is why it’s ridiculous to rely on ice and water shield to<br />
waterproof a slate roof.<br />
Before the valley metal is installed, strike a chalk line up the edge of one side of the valley, on the felt<br />
paper, to indicate where the edge of the metal valley flashing should be. In most situations, a valley that is overlapped<br />
by 5” of slate will suffice, providing there is enough slope and the roof planes are roughly equal in size and<br />
slope. Therefore, a standard 6” exposed valley will require 16” valley flashing material. Wider material can be<br />
used, although you’ll find that you just nail holes in the outer edges anyway, which is a waste of material. Larger<br />
roofs that drain more water, such as on churches, should have wider exposed valleys (like 8”) with wider valley<br />
material. There are, of course many variations in valley styles, from open valleys to closed valleys to rounded valleys,<br />
creased valleys, inverted V-groove valleys, etc. The inverted V-grooves are necessary when two unequal roof<br />
planes are draining into each other.<br />
The metal is then nailed in place with a nail of a compatible material (i.e. copper flashing with copper or<br />
brass nails, etc.), and the nails are kept to within one inch of the edge of the valley metal. The valley metal is then<br />
carefully forced into the valley with the pressure of a knee as the other side is nailed (or pre-break a line down the<br />
center of the valley for especially steep roofs). Some schools insist on folding the outer edges of valleys and cleating<br />
them into place rather than nailing them directly to the roof<br />
sheathing. Having replaced literally miles of old leaking valleys<br />
myself, both nailed and cleated, I have never seen an instance<br />
of a nailed valley leaking because it was nailed. Cleated valleys<br />
leak for the same reason as nailed valleys — corroded<br />
metal. Cleating is a practice recommended when solder joints<br />
are used in the flashing to prevent strain on the joint. Valleys<br />
sections do not need to be soldered; they are instead overlapped<br />
by 6 inches — therefore cleating is an unnecessary<br />
step that can be readily avoided.<br />
Valleys should be laid in sections not to exceed twelve feet<br />
in length, although a ten foot maximum length is recommended<br />
due to the adverse effect of expansion and contraction that<br />
can cause long pieces of metal to buckle and develop a leak<br />
over time. The valley sections should simply be overlapped by<br />
six inches — no soldering is necessary or recommended, as<br />
it’s the old solder joints on the old valleys that tend to leak,<br />
once again, due to expansion and contraction. Do not use roof<br />
cement or other adhesives along the edges of a valley (except<br />
as an emergency seal in the event of rain during installation), as adhesives make later repairs of the roof unpleasant<br />
and difficult while adding no advantage to the functioning of the roof.<br />
Valleys are typically laid “open,” with approximately six inches of metal exposed. The overall width of the<br />
valley metal can vary from 14” to 20”, although a minimum of 16” is recommended for a 6” exposure (providing no<br />
nails penetrate the valley more than an inch or so from the edge of the metal when the roof is slated). Open valleys<br />
typically have parallel sides running from bottom to top, although some roofers prefer open valleys that gradually<br />
widen toward the bottom. When laying slate into a valley, chalk a line the length of the valley on both sides to<br />
indicate the edges of the slate, then draw over the chalk lines with a permanent ink felt-tipped pen, as the chalk<br />
lines will wear off the metal almost immediately. When nailing slate over the valley metal, be careful to nail only<br />
along the edge of the metal, and not anywhere near the center. If a small, triangular piece of slate cannot be nailed<br />
over the valley at the end of a slate row without nailing too close to the center of the valley, eliminate that piece of<br />
slate — you won’t need it.<br />
RIDGES<br />
Ridges, like valleys, are typically made of<br />
metal, but are often slate, and sometimes ceramic<br />
tile. When finishing slating along a ridge, it’s important<br />
that the roof sheathing does not have any<br />
appreciable gap at the peak. If a gap exists (as is<br />
typically left when a carpenter sheaths a roof for ventilated<br />
ridge) the slates may not lay properly, and<br />
ridge metal will not have a sufficient base in which to<br />
nail. Ridge ventilation became common on houses<br />
as more and more people had problems with plywood<br />
delaminating and walls sweating moisture.<br />
Slate roofs, when properly built, naturally breathe.<br />
The gaps between the sheathing boards and<br />
between the slates allow for some air flow. This is<br />
contrary to asphalt shingle roofs with plywood decks,<br />
which do not breathe and must be ventilated. If you<br />
want to ventilate your slate roof, ventilate out the<br />
gable ends, or through roof top vents. If you insist on<br />
venting through your ridge, buy or build a ridge vent<br />
system specially designed for a slate roof — do not<br />
use the cheap aluminum vented ridge sold for<br />
asphalt shingle roofs.<br />
ROOF JACKS NAIL IN THE SLOT OVER STANDARD THICKNESS<br />
SLATES WITH 16P COMMON NAILS, AND UNDER<br />
THICK SLATES (AS SHOWN IN THE CENTER) TO HOLD A<br />
2X10 PLANK. A LADDER CAN BE SET ON THE PLANK AND<br />
LAID ON THE ROOF. ALTERNATIVELY, REMOVE A SLATE<br />
AND NAIL THE ROOF JACK BETWEEN THE TWO UNDERLYING<br />
SLATES.<br />
DO NOT<br />
1. Do not use laminated wood roof decking — use solid lumber.<br />
2. Do not use insufficient headlap — use three inches of headlap — more on lower slopes.<br />
3. Do not walk on the slates or sit on them during installation — if possible, work from the side or from hook ladders<br />
or roof ladders on planks.<br />
4. Do not use “electrogalvanized” nails — use hot dipped galvanized nails on recycled roofs and copper or stainless<br />
steel nails on new slate.<br />
5. Do not rely on the underlayment (felt or ice and water shield) to waterproof the roof — you will puncture it profusely<br />
when you install the slate. A properly installed slate roof will not leak, underlayment or no underlayment. Ice<br />
and water shield is a product designed to protect plywood from delamination — you will not need it on a slate roof.<br />
6. Do not use aluminum drip edges — they’re made for asphalt shingle roofs.<br />
7. Do not use ventilated ridges unless they’re specifically designed for slate roofs — ventilate through gable ends<br />
or through individual roof vents.<br />
When Starting to Slate a Roof — Ten Quick-Reference Steps<br />
1) Make sure that the fascia is completely installed beforehand and that the ends of the sheathing boards are firmly nailed.<br />
2) Felt over the board sheathing with 30 lb. roofing felt, lapped at least three inches at the top and sides.<br />
3) Nail a wooden starter shim at the bottom edge of the lowest sheathing board &#8211; it should be about 1/2” thick, and at least an<br />
inch wide (eight foot lengths are convenient). Cedar or redwood is ideal (cedar shim shingles will work), but the same local<br />
lumber as the sheathing will do just fine.<br />
4) Chalk a horizontal line on the felt paper for the starter slates, measuring the width of the slate up the roof from the bottom<br />
edge of the wood shim, deducting 1+1/2 inches for the slate overhang. Next, chalk a line for the first full row, now measuring<br />
up the roof the length of the slate and deducting an inch and a half for the overhang.<br />
5) Now measure up the remainder of the roof equal distances equivalent to the exposure of the slate, and chalk lines accordingly.<br />
But first, make sure your second full row of slates will overlap the starter row by three inches based on your measurements<br />
— if not, drop that second row down an inch or so to where you need it to be, then chalk the rest of the roof with the<br />
exposure measurement. [Exposure is determined by subtracting the headlap from the total length of the slate, then dividing<br />
the remainder in half. For example, a 20” slate with a 3” headlap will have a 8.5” exposure (20 - 3 = 17, divided in half =<br />
8.5).]<br />
6) Do not bed the starter slates or any slates in roof cement or caulk, except for very small pieces on edges in unusual circumstances.<br />
Adhesives make it very difficult to repair the roof in the future. Instead, two 1+1/2” hot dipped galvanized or copper<br />
nails per slate is a good rule of thumb which will ensure the secure attachment of all slates to the roof. Don’t nail the slates too<br />
tightly, let them hang on the roof. Do make sure the nailheads are set into the slate however, as nails that stick up will eventually<br />
wear a hole in the overlying slate, and cause a leak.<br />
7) Tap a couple of temporary nails into the side of the fascia on the gable end, one at the top and one at the bottom, and run<br />
a string up the edge of the roof positioned one inch out from the fascia. Use the string as a guide to align the edge of the slate<br />
as you nail them into place. Remove the string when you’re done. Or chalk vertical lines on the roof for edge slate alignment.<br />
 <img src='http://s.wordpress.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif' alt='8)' class='wp-smiley' /> Make sure the slots between the slates on the first full row are staggered at least 3” laterally from the butted ends of the<br />
starter slates. If not, reinforce the joint by sliding a piece of flashing over the starter slate and under the first row at the joint.<br />
9) You can work the first half dozen rows from a ground ladder or ground scaffold, then nail roof jacks and planks along the<br />
bottom of the roof and work up from there. Use more jacks, planks and roof ladders as needed.<br />
10) Have fun!<br />
Exposure is determined by subtracting the headlap from the total length of the slate, then dividing the<br />
remainder in half. A 20” slate with a 3” headlap will have a 8.5” exposure (20 &#8211; 3 = 17, divided in half = 8.5).<br />
SLATE ROOFING — TOOLS OF THE TRADE<br />
THREE TYPES OF SLATE<br />
CUTTERS:<br />
PEARSON (ABOVE)<br />
STORTZ (LEFT)<br />
FREUND (RIGHT)<br />
STORTZ<br />
SLATE RIPPER<br />
(RIGHT)<br />
LADDER HOOK<br />
(RIGHT)<br />
MISCELLANEOUS<br />
SLATE HAMMERS<br />
(LEFT)</p>
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