Residential Wind Damage in Hurricane Katrina Improved Building Codes and Construction Practices-

Residential Wind Damage in Hurricane Katrina
Preliminary Estimates and Potential Loss Reduction through
Improved Building Codes and Construction Practices
October 3, 2005
Prepared by
LSU Hurricane Center
Suite 3225 CEBA Building
Louisiana State University
Baton Rouge, LA 70803
Phone: (225) 578-4813
Fax: (225) 578-7646
Funded in part by Solutia, Inc.
i
PREFACE
This study has been conducted by the LSU Hurricane Center. The views presented here are
those of the report authors (shown below), who are solely responsible for the analysis and
content of this report.
Marc L. Levitan, Ph.D.
Director, LSU Hurricane Center
Charles P. Siess, Jr. Associate Professor
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering
Louisiana State University
Ms. Carol Hill, P.E.
Graduate Research Assistant
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering
Louisiana State University
The analysis makes use of wind field data from Hurricane Katrina initially gathered by field
researchers from Texas Tech University and Florida International University and others, with
subsequent analysis by the NOAA Hurricane Research Division and Applied Research
Associates (ARA). The data sharing among these research groups is gratefully acknowledged.
Loss estimates and effectiveness of mitigation options were determined using FEMA’s HAZUSMH
Hurricane Wind Model, MR1 Release 39 (copyright 2004, FEMA).
Loss estimates are highly dependent on the maximum wind speeds in a hurricane and the
geographical extent of hurricane force winds. There are currently several researchers on the
ground in Louisiana and Mississippi gathering as much information as they can find on the
intensity and reach of Katrina’s wind field. As new data becomes available, a reanalysis of the
estimated losses may yield somewhat different results.
Partial funding for the study was provided by Solutia, Inc, which is also gratefully
acknowledged.
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EXECUTIVE SUMARY
In order to provide context for consideration of changes to residential building codes and
construction practices in Louisiana, a quick study of the estimated wind damage caused by
Hurricane Katrina was conducted. As Louisiana did not experience the most intense winds from
Katrina due to its track over the very eastern part of the state, a ‘what if’ analysis was also
conducted with a Katrina-like storm shifted slightly to the west, bringing more of the windfield
over Louisiana. Both of these storm events were then used to investigate the impacts of several
different changes in building code requirements/construction practices. Mitigation measures
considered were opening protection (impact resistant shutters or laminated glass systems),
improved connection of the roof deck, installation of hurricane straps, and secondary moisture
protection of the roof deck. Damage estimates and the effectiveness of various mitigation
measures were made using FEMA’s HAZUS-MH Hurricane Wind Model, a state-of-the-art risk
assessment program for analyzing hurricane losses.
The number of residential structures in Louisiana that sustained damage from wind and winddriven
rain during Hurricane Katrina was estimated to be near 273,000, 16% of the total building
stock in Louisiana. Had Katrina made landfall slightly west of New Orleans instead of just east
of the city, the number of damaged and destroyed buildings in Louisiana would have been
doubled, to well over half a million residences.
Investigation of mitigation options showed all to be effective individually. When considered
together as a package, these four combined mitigation measures reduced the estimated losses by
over 75%.
The loss reduction estimates using different mitigation techniques do not include such additional
benefits as reduction in human suffering, reduced disruption of communities and local
economies, reduced emergency response costs, and other significant but difficult to quantify
losses.
These preliminary results support the need for reforms in building code requirements and
construction practices in Louisiana.
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RESIDENTIAL LOSS ANALYSIS
The HAZUS-MH Wind Model was used to simulate the wind field experienced during Hurricane
Katrina. The model inputs were based upon a preliminary study of surface winds produced by
Applied Research Associates (ARA). The ARA modeled storm was based on National
Hurricane Center Forecast/Advisories (through NHC Advisory 27), H*Wind analyses of wind
speeds and radius to maximum winds from NOAA’s Hurricane Research Division (HRD) and
ground-measured wind speeds from the Florida Coastal Monitoring Program (FCMP) and
reporting airports.
The modeled wind field for Hurricane Katrina in Louisiana is shown in Figure 1. A large scale
map of the affected portion of Louisiana is shown in Figure 2. Wind speeds represent peak gusts
at 33 ft height over flat open terrain, the standard reporting methodology for wind speeds.
Figure 1 – Estimated Hurricane Katrina Peak Gust Wind Speeds
Figure 2 – Estimated Hurricane Katrina Peak Gust Wind Speeds (Southeast LA view)
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To simulate the landfall of Hurricane Katrina on a more damaging path, each of the points used
to define the track of Hurricane Katrina was shifted 0.7 decimal degrees (approximately 40
miles) to the west. This track puts New Orleans on the right front side of the storm, where it will
experience more severe winds and flooding. This hypothetical Katrina-West scenario was
analyzed with the HAZUS Wind Model to produce a wind field for purposes of comparison with
the actual Katrina track. The modeled wind field for the adjusted storm track in the state of
Louisiana is shown in Figure 3. A larger scale map of the southeast corner of Louisiana is
shown in Figure 4.
Figure 3 – Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario Peak Gust Wind Speeds
Figure 4 – Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario Peak Gust Wind Speeds
(Southeast Louisiana view)
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The HAZUS-MH Hurricane Model uses a structural load vs. resistance methodology to calculate
damage experienced in a hurricane. The wind speeds discussed previously are the most
important inputs to determine the wind loads on the structures. The damage results provided by
HAZUS include five damage states: none or very minor, minor, moderate, severe, and
destruction. Qualitative descriptions for each of these damage categories are given below in
Table 1.
Table 1 – HAZUS Damage States for Residential Construction
Qualitative Damage Description
Roof
Cover
Failure
Window
Door
Failures
Roof Deck
Missile
Impacts on
Walls
Roof
Structure
Failure
Wall
Structure
Failure
No Damage or Very Minor Damage
Little or no visible damage from the
outside. No broken windows, or failed roof
deck. Minimal loss of roof cover, with no
or very limited water penetration.
≤2% No No No No No
Minor Damage
Maximum of one broken window, door or
garage door. Moderate roof cover loss that
can be covered to prevent additional water
entering the building. Marks or dents on
walls requiring painting or patching for
repair.
>2% and
≤15%
One
window,
door, or
garage
door
failure
No 15% and
≤50%
> one and
≤ the larger
of 20% &
3
1 to 3
panels
Typically 5
to 10
impacts
No No
Severe Damage
Major window damage or roof sheathing
loss. Major roof cover loss. Extensive
damage to interior from water.
>50%
> the larger
of 20% &
3 and
≤50%
>3 and
≤25%
Typically
10 to 20
impacts
No No
Destruction
Complete roof failure and/or, failure of
wall frame. Loss of more than 50% of roof
sheathing.
Typically
>50% >50% >25%
Typically
>20
impacts
Yes Yes
A building damage and loss analysis was completed for Hurricane Katrina using the default
settings for the HAZUS program. The state of Louisiana was used as the study region.
According to the HAZUS databases, the study area contains approximately 1,719,000 total
buildings (based on 2000 census data). From the HAZUS databases, residential buildings
constitute approximately 99% of the buildings in the study region.
The output of the HAZUS model provides building counts for each of damage categories shown
above. The Hurricane Katrina analysis results are given in Table 2. Counts represent the
estimated total number of affected buildings in Louisiana, and percentage figures represent the
percent of buildings in each of the categories. Maps of the areas affected by Hurricane Katrina
winds are shown in Figures 5 and 6. Figure 5 presents a graphical depiction of residential
properties modeled by HAZUS that sustained at least minor damage, delineated by census tract,
and Figure 6 shows properties experiencing at least moderate damage. The total estimated
damage from wind and rain (including costs to repair and loss of contents) is $10.0 billion.
4
Table 2 – HAZUS Modeled Residential Damage for Hurricane Katrina
Reporting Basis Minor
Damage
Moderate
Damage
Severe
Damage Destruction
Total
Buildings
Affected
Building Count 153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483
Percentage of
Buildings in LA 9% 4% 1% 1% 16%
Figure 5 – Estimated Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Minor
Damage during Hurricane Katrina (HAZUS)
Figure 6 – Estimated Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Moderate
Damage from Hurricane Katrina (HAZUS)
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A HAZUS analysis was also conducted for the simulated Hurricane Katrina on a more westerly
track. The estimated damage results are given in Table 3 below. This storm is shown to cause
much more damage. It effects more than twice as many buildings and destroys several times as
many as indicated by the Katrina estimate
Table 3 – HAZUS Modeled Residential Damage for Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario
Reporting Basis Minor
Damage
Moderate
Damage
Severe
Damage Destruction
Total
Buildings
Affected
Building Count 143,601 172,393 134,368 125,132 575,493
Percentage of
Buildings in LA 8% 10% 8% 7% 33%
These damage estimates are shown graphically in Figures 7 and 8. Figure 7 shows the modified
Katrina track HAZUS results for residential properties sustaining at least minor damage,
delineated by census tract. Figure 8 shows the percentage of residential properties modeled by
HAZUS as experiencing at least moderate damage for this storm scenario.
Figure 7 – Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Minor Damage for
Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario (HAZUS)
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Figure 8 – Percentage of Residential Properties Sustaining at Least Moderate Damage for
Hypothetical Katrina-West Scenario (HAZUS)
ANALYSIS OF EFFECTIVENESS OF MITIGATION MEASURES
Both the actual Hurricane Katrina track and the modified track west of New Orleans were
analyzed with the HAZUS Hurricane Model to explore the effectiveness of improved building
codes and construction practices in mitigating wind damage. The mitigation options are based
upon strategies incorporated in the Dade County South Florida Building Code, described below
(see the HAZUS Technical Manual for more details).
􀂃 Protection of Building Openings
Windows and doors are the weak spots in the wall envelope. Requiring debris impact
resistant windows and doors or debris impact protective coverings (shutters) prevents
most window and door failures. This helps keep the wind and rain out of the building,
reducing structural damage, damage to finishes, and damage to contents.
􀂃 Improved Roof Sheathing Attachment
Better attachment of the plywood or OSB roof sheathing to the roof structure through
appropriate fasteners and closer fastener spacing helps prevent sections of the roof deck
from being lifted off by the wind. This reduces progressive failures and wind and water
from penetrating the building envelope.
􀂃 Improved Roof-Wall Connections
Installation of metal ‘hurricane clips’ or’ hurricane straps’ provides a continuous load
path from the roof to the foundation, helping prevent catastrophic roof uplift failures.
􀂃 Secondary Waterproofing to Roof Joints
Sealing the joints between the sheets of roof decking provides a second line of defense
against roof leaks, even if the roof coverings are damaged or destroyed.
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Reduction in Building Damage Through Mitigation
The four mitigation strategies were applied to each hazard scenario individually to assess the
effectiveness of each option. A combined analysis was also performed to provide an
understanding of the effectiveness of the combination of mitigation measures. Results for this
analysis are given in the same format as for the Katrina analysis, with building counts in each
damage state and the percentage of buildings statewide that are classified in each damage state.
Additionally, the percent reduction from the basic Hurricane Katrina analysis is calculated for
each damage state.
Note that reduction in damage is not modeled by selecting secondary waterproofing for roof
joints, but results for waterproofing are included in the economic loss analysis. The results of the
mitigation analysis are given for Hurricane Katrina in Tables 4-7. Mitigation analysis results for
the hypothetical Katrina-West track (not shown here) resulted in similar percent reductions.
Table 4 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results – 100% Implementation of
Opening Protection for Residential Buildings
Reporting Basis Minor
Damage
Moderate
Damage
Severe
Damage Destruction
Total
Buildings
Affected
Residential
Building &
Contents Loss
(Billions)
Percent
Reduction
from Katrina
Estimate
Katrina Estimate
Damaged Building
Count
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0
Building Count – 100%
Opening Protection 159,304 69,911 14,234 4,342 247,791 $5.5 45%
Table 5 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results – 100% Implementation of Roof
to Wall Straps/Clips for Residential Buildings
Reporting Basis Minor
Damage
Moderate
Damage
Severe
Damage Destruction
Total
Buildings
Affected
Residential
Building &
Contents Loss
(Billions)
Percent
Reduction
from Katrina
Estimate
Katrina Estimate
Damaged Building
Count
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0
Building Count – 100%
Straps/Clips 154,486 78,252 27,718 13,029 273,485 $8.9 11%
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Table 6 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results – 100% Implementation of
Upgraded Roof Deck Attachment for Residential Buildings
Reporting Basis Minor
Damage
Moderate
Damage
Severe
Damage Destruction
Total
Buildings
Affected
Residential
Building &
Contents Loss
(Billions)
Percent
Reduction
from Katrina
Estimate
Katrina Estimate
Damaged Building
Count
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0
Building Count – 100%
Upgraded Roof Deck
Attachment
109,787 44,429 17,778 18,474 190,468 $8.0 20%
Table 7 – Hurricane Katrina Mitigation Analysis Results – 100% Implementation of all
Four Mitigation Options for Residential Buildings
Reporting Basis Minor
Damage
Moderate
Damage
Severe
Damage Destruction
Total
Buildings
Affected
Residential
Building &
Contents Loss
(Billions)
Percent
Reduction
from Katrina
Estimate
Katrina Estimate
Damaged Building
Count
153,250 75,227 24,604 20,402 273,483 $10.0
Building Count – 100%
All Mitigation
Strategies
113,938 29,959 3,451 1,985 149,334 $2.1 79%
Reduction in Economic Loss through Mitigation
Using the mitigation strategies outlined above, HAZUS was also used to provide cost estimates
of direct losses. Direct property damage losses are the estimated costs to repair or replace the
damage caused to the building and its contents. Information from the HAZUS databases
indicates that the Louisiana study region consists of 1,718,706 buildings with an aggregate total
replacement value (excluding contents) of $235.9 billion (2002 dollars). Residential buildings
make up 86% of the building value in the state of Louisiana, with total replacement value of
$203.3 billion.
The analysis for Hurricane Katrina estimates total losses (including business interruption) in the
state of Louisiana of $13.1 billion. Residential losses make up 89% of the total loss at $10
billion. Mitigation strategies were evaluated to assess the economic effectiveness of
strengthening the residential building stock in the study area. Mitigation alternatives shutters on
exterior openings, straps/clips at the roof to wall connection, upgraded roof deck attachment,
secondary waterproofing for roof joints for single family, multi-family and mobile home
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dwellings. Each of these mitigation strategies was applied to 100% of the study region building
stock individually to assess the economic loss reduction effectiveness. An analysis combining
all available mitigation strategies was also completed.
Table 8 provides economic loss information modeled by HAZUS for Hurricane Katrina. These
values represent modeled residential building and contents losses in the state of Louisiana.
Percent of total replacement value represents the total residential losses normalized by the total
replacement value of residential buildings in the state ($203.3 billion). Percent reduction reflects
the reduction in economic losses for each mitigation option from the default analysis. Reduction
in economic losses was seen at approximately the same percentages for each mitigation option in
the hypothetical Katrina-West simulation.
Table 8 –Residential Economic Loss Values for Hurricane Katrina Alone and Katrina with
Mitigation Measures
Analysis Type
Residential
Building &
Contents Loss
(Billions)
Percent of State
Total
Replacement
Value
Percent
Reduction from
Katrina Estimate
Hurricane Katrina Estimate $10.0 4.9% N/A
Mitigation – 100% Opening Protection $5.5 2.9% 45%
Mitigation – 100% Straps/Clips $8.9 2.8% 11%
Mitigation – 100% Upgraded Roof Deck $8.0 2.7% 20%
Mitigation – 100% Secondary
Waterproofing $8.9 4.4% 11%
All 4 Mitigation Options Selected $2.1 1.0% 79%

Installation of Duratech Chimney

DURATECH CHIMNEY
5″-8″ DIAMETER
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
A MAJOR CAUSE OF CHIMNEY RELATED FIRES IS FAILURE
TO MAINTAIN REQUIRED CLEARANCES (AIR SPACES) TO
COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS. IT IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE
THAT THIS CHIMNEY BE INSTALLED ONLY IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
Read through all these instructions before beginning your installation. Failure
to install the chimney as described in these instructions will void the manufacturer’s
warranty and may have an effect on your homeowner insurance and UL listing
status. Keep these instructions for future use.
CONTENTS
CLEARANCES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
PERMITS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
DURATECH CHIMNEY APPLICATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
EQUIPMENT & MATERIALS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
INSTALLATION NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
CHIMNEY DIAMETER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
CHIMNEY HEIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
CHIMNEY PLACEMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
CHIMNEY ENCLOSURE REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
STOVE RECOMMENDATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
STEP-BY-STEP DIRECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
CEILING SUPPORTED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
OFFSET ELBOW INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
EXTENDED ROOF BRACKET INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
ROOF SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
TEE-SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
ZERO-CLEARANCE FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
CONNECTION FROM APPLIANCE TO CHIMNEY SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . 22
CHIMNEY MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
CLEARANCES
Always allow at least a 2-inch clearance between DuraTech Chimney Pipe and
any combustible materials. Never fill any required clearance space with
insulation or any other materials. Combustible materials include lumber,
MH7399
2
plywood, sheetrock, plaster and lath, furniture, curtains, electrical wiring and
building insulation. Keep single wall stovepipe at least 18 inches away from
combustible materials, unless a clearance reduction system that is acceptable
to the authority having jurisdiction is used, or the appliance to be installed is
listed and the instructions specify a different clearance.
PERMITS
Contact your local Building Official or Fire Official regarding permits, restrictions,
and installation inspections in your area.
DURATECH CHIMNEY APPLICATIONS
DuraTech Chimney is a complete chimney system tested and listed to UL 103
HT for the United States, and ULC S604 in Canada. In the U.S., DuraTech
Chimney can be used with wood stoves, fireplaces, fireboxes, furnaces, boilers,
water heaters, stoves, ranges, or other residential-type appliances fueled by oil,
gas, coal, or wood, that require a UL103 HT chimney system. In Canada,
DuraTech can be used with oil & gas fired appliances listed for use with a Type
A Chimney, in accordance with ULC S604 (DuraTech has not been approved
for use with solid fuel appliances in Canada). DuraTech Chimney is available in
5″, 6″, 7″ & 8″ diameters (UL 103 HT Rated), as well as 10″, 12″, 14″ & 16″
diameters (UL 103 Rated). Do not use with forced draft, positive-pressure
appliances. The DuraTech Chimney system may have a maximum of two (2)
offsets (four elbows total) of 30° from vertical. DuraTech Chimney is listed under
UL Re-examination Service Number MH7399.
EQUIPMENT & MATERIALS
Hammer Drill
Caulking Gun Plumb Bob
Screwdrivers (Phillips & Standard) Tin Snips
Saber or Keyhole Saw Level
Dependable Ladder Tape Measure
Proper Gloves and Shoes Eye Protection
Materials You May Need:
500OF RTV Silicone Sealant 8 Penny Nails
#8, 2-1/2″ & 1-1/2″ Wood Screws Roofing Nails
3
INSTALLATION NOTES
Proper planning for your DuraTech Chimney installation will result in greater safety,
efficiency, and convenience, as well as saving time and money. You must use only
authorized DuraTech Chimney parts to maintain a listed Chimney system (not
including the connector pipe). Do not mix parts or try to match with other products,
or use improvised solutions. Do not install damaged or modified parts. Table 1 lists
the authorized DuraTech Chimney components. Practice good workmanship.
Sloppy work could jeopardize your chimney’s safety. Keep electrical wiring and
insulation away from all chimneys and stovepipes. If you have any questions, be
sure to contact either your dealer or Simpson Dura-Vent directly.
CHIMNEY DIAMETER
Follow the appliance manufacturer’s instructions to determine chimney diameter
and clearances between combustible materials and your heating appliance. Never
choose a chimney with an inside diameter smaller than your appliance’s outlet. To
calculate the chimney’s outside diameter, add 2 inches to the inside diameter.
CHIMNEY HEIGHT
The National Fire Protection Association Standard #211 states: “Chimneys shall
extend at least three feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof
of a building, and at least two feet higher than any portion of a building within
ten feet.” (Fig 1) DuraTech Chimney may be installed up to 60 feet high. If the
chimney extends more than 5 feet above the roof, an Extended Roof Bracket must
Table 1: DuraTech Chimney Components
Part Part
6″, 12″, 18″, 24″, 36″ & 48″ Pipe Sections Firestop Radiation Shield
Elbow with swivel Attic Insulation Shield
Tee with Tee Cap Elbow Strap
Adjustable Tee Support Bracket Adjustable Wall Strap
Chimney Cap Anchor Plate
Round Ceiling Support Box Extended Roof Bracket
Trim collars for Round Support Boxes Adjustable Roof Flashing
Square Ceiling Support Box Chase Top Flashing
Flat Ceiling Support Box Flat Roof Flashing
Roof Support Storm Collar
Trim collar for Roof Support Transition Anchor Plate
Wall Thimble Base Tee and Double Base Tee
Finishing Collar Firestop
be used (see page 12). Due to the overlap of
the joints, subtract 1-1/4 inches from each
Chimney Section’s height to calculate installed
height.
CHIMNEY PLACEMENT
When deciding the location of your chimney,
try to avoid modifications to roof beams and other structural components of the
building.
CHIMNEY ENCLOSURE REQUIREMENTS
Through Rooms: Interior chimneys shall be enclosed where they extend
through closets, storage areas, occupied spaces, or anyplace where the surface
of the chimney could be contacted by persons or combustible materials. The
space between the outer wall of the chimney and the enclosure shall be at least
2 inches (Fig 2).
Multi-Story: Consult local building codes for requirements in your area. In the
U.S., the National Fire Protection Association Standard #211 states: “Factorybuilt
chimneys that pass through floors of buildings requiring the protection of
vertical openings shall be enclosed with approved
walls having a fire resistance rating of not
less than one hour when such chimneys are
located in a building less than 4 stories in height,
and not less than 2 hours when such chimneys are
located in a building more than 4 stories in height.”
In Canada, except in single-family and twofamily
dwellings, chimneys which extend through
another story must have an enclosure with a fire
resistance rating equal to or greater than that of
the floor or roof assembly through which they
pass.
Cold Climates: In cold climates, chimneys
mounted on an outside wall should be enclosed in
a chase. Exterior chases reduce condensation
and creosote formation, and enhance draft. Include
an access door by the Tee Cap for chimney
cleaning (Refer to Fig 23, page 17).
Fig 2
ATTIC
INSULATION
SHIELD
FIRESTOP
RADIATION
SHIELD
(INSIDE)
ENCLOSURE
MUST HAVE 2
INCHES OF
CLEARANCE
BETWEEN
CHIMNEY AND
WALL
SUPPORT BOX
ATTIC
SPACE
OCCUPIED
SECOND
FLOOR
FIRST
FLOOR
4
Fig 1
2 FT. MIN. ABOVE
HIGHEST POINT OF
ROOF WITHIN 10 FT.
10′
3 FT. MIN.
ABOVE ROOF
5
STOVE RECOMMENDATIONS
Follow the stove manufacturer’s instructions. The requirements stated below
pertain to all stoves or other appliances installed with DuraTech Chimney systems.
Choice: Choose an appliance that is listed by a recognized testing laboratory, is
appropriate for your needs, and is not larger than required.
Installation: Once the chimney system is in place, install the stovepipe to
connect the appliance to the chimney as described in the appliance manufacturer’s
instructions. Be sure to maintain all required clearances.
Flues: Connect only one solid fuel appliance per chimney.
Operation: Follow the appliance manufacturer’s instructions for maximum efficiency
and safety. Overfiring can damage the appliance, stovepipe and chimney.
Fuels: Do not burn driftwood, plastic, or chemically treated wood such as railroad
ties. They are corrosive to your appliance, stovepipe and chimney. Follow the
appliance manufacturer’s instructions and safety manual in regards to fuels. Not all
appliances are equipped to burn coal. Coal with a low sulfur content will reduce
the possibility of corrosion.
Mobile Homes: Please read the appliance manufacturer’s instructions and safety
manual carefully. Not all appliances are listed for use in mobile homes.
STEP-BY-STEP DIRECTIONS
There are five general types of DuraTech Chimney installations:
1. Ceiling-supported 2. Roof-supported
3. Tee-supported (through-the-wall) 4. Masonry Fireplace
5. Zero-Clearance Fireplace
Review the step-by-step directions before beginning your installation.
CEILING SUPPORTED
1. Place Appliance: Position the appliance according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. The flue outlet collar should be placed between the rafters or joists
above, if possible.
2. Frame Support Opening: Drop a plumb bob to the center of the appliance’s
flue outlet and mark this center point on the ceiling. Refer to Table 2 for specific
framing and clearance dimensions. Mark appropriate cutting lines around the
center point. Cut a square hole in the ceiling for the Support Box. Frame a level,
square opening centered over the hole which you have cut. (Figures 3 and 4).
3. Install Support: For installation into a flat ceiling, you may use either the Round
Support Box, the Flat Ceiling Support Box, or the Square Ceiling Support Box. The
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Flat Ceiling Support Box is primarily used for Oil Appliances and comes unpainted.
For the Square Ceiling Support Box, refer to the Square ceiling installation below.
The Round Ceiling Support Box has the option of a square or round Trim Collar
available (Fig 5). The bottom of the Round Support Box must extend at least 3
inches below the finished ceiling. Level the Support Box and secure it to the framing
using at least three 8-penny nails per side (min. of 12 total). Alternatively, you may
use 1-1/2″ #8 wood screws (min. of 12 total), instead of nails. Next, secure the Trim
Collar (round or square) to the framing members using the (4) 1″ long, round-head
wood screws provided (Fig 6).
For installation into a cathedral ceiling, you must use the Square Ceiling Support
Box and the two-piece Trim. The bottom of the square portion of the Support Box
must be a minimum of 2-inches lower (round portion is an additional 3 inches lower)
than the finished ceiling at the lowest side of the penetration (Fig 5 & 6). Level the
Support Box and secure it to the framing using
at least three (3) 8-penny nails per side (minimum
of 12 nails total), or a minimum of (3) #8, 1-1/
2″ wood screws. Adjust the overlapping “Ushaped”
Trim pieces so they cover the Support
Fig 4 Box, and secure them to the framing members
Fig 3
CHIMNEY
CAP
STORM
COLLAR
ADJUSTABLE
FLASHING
CHIMNEY
SECTIONS
MINIMUM OF 3
INCHES BELOW
FINISHED CEILING
18 INCHES MINIMUM
FOR SINGLE-WALL
STOVEPIPE
ATTIC
INSULATION
SHIELD
FRAMED
OPENING
ROUND
SUPPORT BOX ROUND TRIM
COLLAR
JOISTS &
FRAMING
3-INCH MINIMUM
REQUIRED BELOW
FINISHED CEILING
using the (6) 1-1/4″ long, round head wood screws provided (see Fig 6).
4. Frame Openings: Frame openings in each ceiling or floor above the Support
Box (Fig 7). These openings are to hold the Firestop Radiation Shield and Attic
Insulation Shield. Locate each opening by dropping a plumb bob to the four
corners of the opening below. Maintain the minimum clearances and dimensions
as specified in Table 2. If Elbows must be used to avoid an obstruction,
refer to the Offset Elbow Installation section.
5. Cut Roof Opening: Cut an opening in the roof directly above the opening
below, and at least 4 inches larger than the chimney’s outside diameter to
provide at least a 2-inch clearance all around the chimney. The chimney must
be centered within this opening and maintain the 2-inch clearance to combustibles.
6. Install Firestop Radiation Shield: A Firestop Radiation Shield is required
in multistory installations at each floor penetration above that where the Support
Box is located. Example: in a multistory home where the appliance is on the ground
floor (Support Box is in the 1st floor ceiling), you would need a Firestop Radiation
Shield at the 2nd floor ceiling, and at the 3rd floor ceiling, etc., including where the
chimney penetrates into the attic. Figure 7 shows a typical 2-story installation with
an attic. Note: a Firestop Radiation Shield is not installed where the chimney
penetrates through the roof. The Firestop Radiation Shield is installed on the
underside of the ceiling/floor framing, with the cylindrical “tube” portion of the shield
Fig 5
Fig 6
SQUARE CEILING
SUPPORT BOX WITH
TRIM FRAME IN
PLACE
WOOD SCREWS
ARE REQUIRED
ROUND CEILING
SUPPORT WITH
TRIM IN PLACE
ROUND SUPPORT BOX
WITH ROUND TRIM
COLLAR
WOOD SCREWS
ARE REQUIRED
MINIMUM OF 2
INCHES BELOW
FINISHED
CEILING
7
3 INCHES MIN
BELOW
FINISHED
CEILING
ROUND SUPPORT BOX
WITH SQUARE TRIM
COLLAR
8
Fig 7
ROUND
SUPPORT BOX
CHIMNEY
SECTION
MINIMUM OF 3
INCHES BELOW
FINSHED CEILING
18 INCH MINIMUM
FOR SINGLE WALL
STOVEPIPE
FRAMED
OPENING
FIRESTOP
RADIATION
SHIELD
ATTIC
INSULATION
SHIELD
FRAMED
ENCLOSURE
CHIMNEY
SECTION
2 INCH MINIMUM
CLEARANCE TO
INSIDE OF
ENCLOSURE
ADJUSTABLE
FLASHING
STORM
COLLAR
CAP
pointing upward (Fig 8). Use a
minimum of either (1) 8 penny nail
or (1) #8, 1-1/2″ wood screws per
corner. Refer to Table 2 for framing
requirements.
7. Assemble Chimney Sections:
Lower the female end of the first
Chimney Section in the Support
Box (Fig 9). It will twist-lock
clockwise onto the male end of the
Support Box. Turn Pipe Sections
firmly clockwise to lock them together.
Sheet metal screws are not
required, but they may be used to
reinforce the connection, if desired.
Use only 1/2″ (or shorter) sheet
metal screws. Do not penetrate the
inner liner of the chimney.
8. Install Attic Insulation Shield:
Install the Attic Insulation Shield
where the chimney passes into an
attic. It’s purpose is to prevent
debris and insulation from getting
too close to the chimney (Fig 10).
An installed Attic Insulation Shield
is 15 inches high. In attic areas
where this shield cannot fit, you
must enclose the attic portion of the
chimney in a framed enclosure. If
thechimneyisfullyenclosedthrough
the attic, an Attic Insulation Shield
is not required. If the chimney
passes into the attic, install the Attic
Insulation Shield as follows:
a. If the Firestop Radiation Shield
extends above the attic floor, no
modifications are necessary. The
Table 2
9
Firestop Radiation Shield will fit inside the Attic Insulation
Shield.
b. Assemble Chimney Sections until at least 18 inches of
chimney extends above the Firestop Radiation Shield.
c. Extend the Firestop Radiation Shield tube extension
(keep at least 1″ overlap), and secure in place using sheet
metal screws.
d. Slip the Attic Insulation Shield over the Chimney and
Firestop Radiation Shield until the base sits squarely on
the framed opening (Fig 7 & 10).
e. Secure the Attic Insulation Shield to the top of the
framed opening using at least (3) 8-penny nails or (3) #8, 1-1/2″ wood screws per
side (Fig 10).
f. Wrap the Collar of the Attic Insulation Shield around the chimney and fasten
it loosely. Slide the Collar down to meet the Attic Insulation Shield. Slip the tab
through the adjacent slot and fold it back to tighten and secure the Collar (Fig 11).
9. Attach Flashing: In new construction, assemble the Chimney Sections to a
point above the roof, then slip the Flashing over the chimney. On an existing roof,
center and install the Flashing before extending the chimney above the roof. Allow
space to permit sliding the next Chimney Section up through the Flashing. Always
insure the chimney remains vertical (use level), and that at least a 2-inch clearance
to combustible materials is maintained all around. Install the upper edge of the
Flashing under the roofing. Nail to the roof along the upper edge and down each
side with 1-inch roofing nails. Do not nail the lower edge of the Flashing (Fig 12).
Be sure to follow local building practices, as needed. Seal all nail heads with a nonhardening
waterproof sealant. On flat or tarred and graveled roofs, nail and seal
the Flat Roof Flashing to the roof on all sides with roofing compound. Do not put
screws through the Flashing into the Chimney Pipe.
10. Finish Top: Apply a high-temperature (500OF), non-hardening waterproof
Fig 8
FRAMING
FIRESTOP
RADIATION
SHIELD
Fig 9 Fig 10
TWIST
CLOCKWISE
TO TIGHTEN
ROUND
ATTIC
INSULATION
SHIELD
10
Fig 12 Fig 13
PUSH COLLAR
DOWN TO
FLASHING AND
SEAL WITH NONHARDENING
HIGHTEMP
SILICONE
SEALANT
ADJUSTABLE
FLASHING
ROOFING
FASTENERS
sealant around the chimney at the point where the Storm
Collar will meet the chimney just above the Flashing.
(Figures 12 and 13). Slide the Storm Collar down over the
chimney to the top of the Flashing. Tighten and seal the
Storm Collar against the sealant. After installing sufficient
Chimney Sections to meet the height requirement (Fig 1),
attach the Chimney Cap onto the top of the chimney by
holding the collar of the cap and twist locking it clockwise
onto the chimney. Do not hold upper portion of the cap and twist, as this may
damage the cap. The Chimney Cap can be removed for chimney cleaning as
described in the Chimney Maintenance section of the instructions. Use an Extended
Roof Bracket if the chimney extends more than 5 feet above the roof. (Figures 16
& 17 in the Extended Roof Bracket section). If you are located in heavy snow
country, it is recommended that a “splitter” be installed, and should be fabricated
from heavy gauge sheet metal (Fig 14). This will protect the chimney by routing the
snow around it. This item is not furnished by Simpson Dura-Vent.
11. Enclosures: Enclose chimneys where they pass through occupied spaces,
including closets. Always maintain at least a 2 inch clearance between the chimney
and any combustible materials. Interior enclosures may be constructed with
standard framing and sheathed with sheetrock or plywood. Use Wall Straps as
needed to maintain a minimum of 2 inches of air space between the chimney and
combustible materials.
OFFSET ELBOW INSTALLATION
Elbows are manufactured in 15° and 30° angles measured from the vertical. A 30°
Elbow is the largest that can be used in an offset. A 30° Elbow may not be combined
with a 15° Elbow to make a 45° offset. Avoid Elbows if possible, since a totally
vertical chimney is more efficient. When Elbows are necessary to avoid obstructions
such as rafters, ridgepoles, or joists, use no more than 2 pairs of Elbows in any
one chimney system.
Fig 11
11
Fig 15
NOT MORE THAN 72
INCHES
(2 SECTIONS MAX)
ELBOW STRAP
CHIMNEY
SECTION
ELBOW
OFFSET
(INCHES)
TWO CHIMNEY
SECTIONS
RISE
(INCHES)
ELBOW
ELBOW STRAP
SECOND ELBOW STRAP
REQUIRED WHEN TWO
CHIMNEY SECTIONS ARE
USED IN OFFSET
Fig 14
1. Attach Elbows: Attach Elbow to Chimney
Section or other Elbow by twisting clockwise until
they lock firmly. Attach one Elbow to the Chimney
Section below, and align it for the offset. Elbows for
DuraTech have a swivel feature that allow for 360O
rotation for ease of installation. Refer to Table 3 to
determine the required offset length and attach an
appropriate length (or lengths) of Chimney
Section(s) above the Elbow. The maximum length
of chimney pipe between elbows is not to exceed
72″ (maximum of two chimney sections only).
Attach the second Elbow above the Chimney Section
to complete the offset (Fig 15).
2. Secure Offset: Place the Elbow Strap’s band around the angled portion of the
top Elbow, then tighten the nut and bolt until the clamp is firm. Wrap the Elbow
Strap end over an adjacent joist or rafter and secure it with at least (2) 8-penny nails
or (2) #8, 1-1/2 screws. Do not add more Chimney Sections until the Elbows are
supported. Be sure that the chimney remains vertical. If there is more than one
Chimney Section between the Elbows, install a second Elbow Strap around the
joint of the two Chimney Sections (Fig 15).
EXTENDED ROOF BRACKET INSTALLATION
If the chimney extends more than 5 feet above the roofline, an Extended Roof
SPLITTER
SPLITTER
TOP
VIEW
12
Bracket must be installed at every 5-foot increment
of chimney height above the roofline,
leaving no more than 5 feet of chimney extending
above the last pipe bracket. The Extended
Roof Bracket consists of the Pipe Band, the
Adjustable Legs, and the Roof Brackets.
1. Mount Pipe Band: Slip the Pipe Band
around the chimney and secure by tightening
the nut and bolt.
2. Attach the Legs: The Adjustable Legs of
the assembly will adjust from 67″ to 114″.
Secure one end of the Legs to the Pipe Band
using the nuts and bolts included (1 per Leg).
Position the Adjustable legs so they form approximately
a 60° angle with the chimney, and
with each other (Figures 16 and 17). Be sure
that there is at least 3″ of overlap between the
top and bottom halves of the Adjustable Leg.
In order to secure Legs in proper position,
there is a hole provided in the outer leg where
the outer and inner halves overlap. Use a 1/4″
drill bit to drill through the inner leg at that
location. Use the nut & bolt provided to pin the
Adjustable Legs in position.
3. Install Roof Brackets: Mount the two Roof Brackets where each of the
Adjustable Legs meets the roof, using (6) 1″ roofing nails per bracket. Seal the nail
heads carefully with a non-hardening, waterproof sealant. Attach the bottom end
of the Adjustable Legs to the Roof Brackets using the nuts & bolts provided.
ROOF SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS
There are two types of Roof Supported Installations: (1) Using a Square Ceiling
Support Box, and (2) Using a Roof Support.
(1) For a Square Ceiling Support Box installation, make sure that the square box
portion of the Support Box can extend at least 2″ below the low side of the finished
ceiling (Fig 19). The Support Box must remain level, and the top edge of the box
must cover the edge of the roof’s decking material. Square Ceiling Support Boxes
are available in 11-inch, 24-inch, and 36-inch heights. Mobile home chimney
TABLE 3
ELBOW OFFSET CHART
13
installations are roof supported. Do not seal openings in flashing.
1. Place Appliance: Place the appliance in its proper location, referring to the
manufacturer’s instructions as to allowable distances from combustibles, etc.
2. Cut Openings: Cut a roof opening in your desired location, just as in a Ceiling-
Supported Installation (Steps 1 through 5, page 5). If a separate ceiling and roof
exists, as shown in Figure 18 (Low Attic), first cut and frame a ceiling opening as
described in Ceiling-Supported Installations (Step 2). Refer to Table 2 for
clearance and framing specifications. If it is desired to install through a cathedral
ceiling (Fig 19), then the hole is cut in the roof.
3. Install Support Box: Slip the Square Support Box into the framed opening so
the square portion projects at least 2 inches below the finished ceiling and rafters
(bottom of round portion is 5″ below), and extends above the ceiling to framing or
decking materials that it can be nailed to. Level the Support Box, and slit the
corners to the roofline where they extend beyond it. Bend the flaps (created by the
slitting) flush with the roof, and nail the Support Box to the roof or framing with at
least three (3) 8-penny nails, or (3) 1-1/2″, #8 screws, per side (Fig 20). Be sure
to keep the Support Box level. Screw the trim sections into the ceiling (Fig 6).
4. Complete Installation: Refer to Steps 7, 9 & 10 in the Ceiling Supported
Installation section to complete the Roof Supported installation.
(2) A Roof Support is also used in installations where there is a cathedral ceiling,
and a Square Ceiling Support is not desired. The Roof Support allows the
DuraTech chimney to come down into the room below the level of the ceiling (Fig
21). The Roof Support can support a maximum of 45 feet of DuraTech Chimney
total, and maximum of 20 feet below the support. If a taller stack of DuraTech
Chimney is required, you must use a Square Ceiling Support Box instead.
Fig 16 Fig 17
PIPE BAND
AROUND
CHIMNEY
SECTION
EXTENDED ROOF
BRACKET ASSEMBLY
CHIMNEY
CAP
EXTENDED
ROOF BRACKET
ADJUSTABLE
LEGS
ADJUSTIBLE
LEGS ADJUST
FROM 67 TO 114
INCHES
MUST USE EXT.
ROOF BRACKET
IF OVER 5 FT.
14
Fig 19
SQUARE PORTION OF
SUPPORT BOX NEEDS A
MINIMUM OF 2 INCHES
CLEARANCE TO
FINISHED CEILING
FRAMED
OPENING
CHIMNEY
SECTION
CHIMNEY
SECTION
ADJUSTABLE
FLASHING
CHIMNEY CAP
STORM COLLAR
CHIMNEY
SECTION
CHIMNEY
SECTION
SQUARE
CEILING
SUPPORT BOX
18 INCH MINIMUM
CLEARANCE FOR
SINGLE-WALL
STOVEPIPE
18 INCH MINIMUM
CLEARANCE FOR
SINGLE-WALL
STOVEPIPE
SQUARE PORTION OF
SUPPORT BOX NEEDS
A MINIMUM OF 2
INCHES CLEARANCE
TO LOW SIDE OF
FINISHED CEILING
STORM COLLAR
ADJUSTABLE
FLASHING
Fig 18
SQUARE CEILING
SUPPORT BOX
14
CHIMNEY CAP
15
1. Cut and frame opening to provide a minimum 2″
clearance on all sides of the chimney pipe. Note:
Opening in finished ceiling should be circular/oval in
order for it to be covered by Trim Collar.
2. Bolt on the Roof Support Brackets to the Roof
Support Band using the supplied hardware. Attach
the Roof Support Brackets to roof using (4) 8 penny
nails or (4) #8, 1-1/2″ screws per side (Fig 21).
3. Determine how much DuraTech Chimney will be extending into the room
(minimum of 3″ below the ceiling). Be sure to maintain the proper clearance to
combustibles (walls and ceilings) for the connector pipe. Once you have identified
the proper height for your installation, attach the of the Roof Support Band to the
Chimney Section by tightening the Bolt, and secure it by using (4) supplied sheet
metal screws.
4. Attach desired length of Chimney Sections above and below the roof level (max.
of 45′ total, 20′ below the support). To transition to the Connector Pipe, attach the
Finishing Collar by twist locking it to the bottom section of DuraTech Chimney.
5. Slide Trim Collar over the DuraTech Chimney and attach the Trim Collar to the
ceiling using (4) 1-1/4″ screws provided (Fig 21).
6. Refer to Steps 10 & 11 in the Ceiling Supported Installation section (page 9)
to complete the Roof Supported installation.
Alternative Installation Location for Roof Support: The Roof Support may be
used at the bottom of a Chimney installation (Fig 22). This may be useful for some
Fig 20
USE 4 NAILS (OR
SCREWS) ON EACH
SIDE OF SUPPORT
ROOF SUPPORT
(SUPPORT
BRACKETS
AND BAND)
OPENING IN ROOF
WITH MINIMUM 2″
CLEARANCE ON ALL
Fig 21 SIDES
DURA-BLACK
SLIP CONNECTOR
ROOF SUPPORT
TRIM COLLAR
FINISHING
COLLAR
SECURE ROOF
SUPPORT BAND
TO CHIMNEY
USING 4 SHEET
METAL SCREWS
TIGHTEN BOLT
ON ROOF
SUPPORT BAND
16
basement installations. Maintain a minimum
of 2” clearance to combustibles at
all times. The DuraTech Chimney needs
to extend a minimum of 3” below the finished
ceiling or exposed framing members.
Please note that you cannot extend the
chimney all the way to the appliance – you
must have some connector pipe.
1. Cut and frame opening to provide a
minimum of 2″ clearance on all sides of the
chimney. Be sure to maintain the proper
clearance to combustibles for the
connector pipe.
2. Bolt on the Roof Support Brackets to
the Roof Support Band using the supplied hardware. Attach the Roof Support
Brackets to floor using (4) 8 penny nails or (4) #8, 1-1/2″ screws per side (Fig 22).
3. Determine how much DuraTech Chimney will be extending into the room
(minimum of 3″ below the framing), and attach the of the Roof Support Band to the
Chimney Section by tightening the Bolt, and secure it by using (4) supplied sheet
metal screws (Fig 21 & 22).
4. Install the specialized Firestop below the finished ceiling or framing members.
The Firestop can only be used when installed with the Roof Support in this type of
installation. Use a standard Firestop Radiation Shield at all other locations.
5. Follow steps 4, 5 & 6 for the Roof Support Installation (page 15).
TEE-SUPPORTED INSTALLATIONS
Tee-Supported installations are used when passing through a wall to an outside
chimney. The Tee Support can hold a maximum of 60 feet of DuraTech Chimney.
The Tee Support and Wall Straps are adjustable, allowing from 2″ – 6″ of clearance
between the chimney and the wall, as needed to fit your installation. There are two
options when installing a Tee-Supported installation: the Tee Support above the
Tee, or the Tee Support below the Tee. The required parts and general
configuration are as shown in Figures 23, 24, 25 and 26.
1. Place Appliance: Position the appliance according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. It is a good idea to try to position the appliance so it will allow the
chimney to line up centered between studs.
2. Locate, Cut & Frame Opening: Determine the location where the chimney
DURATECH
CHIMNEY PIPE
ROOF
SUPPORT
FIRESTOP
FRAMING
MEMBERS
(ALL SIDES)
FLOORING
MINIMUM OF 3″
BELOW CEILING
OR EXPOSED
FRAMING
Fig 22
17
will pass through the wall. The chimney
should pass through the wall, centered
between two studs. The height of the
penetration can be determined by positioning
sections of stove pipe until you have the
desired configuration (refer to the appliance
manufacturer’s installation instructions for
restrictions on stove pipe). Cut and frame an
opening in the inner and outer walls at this
location. Refer to Table 2 (page for the
appropriate framing dimensions.
3. Install Wall Thimble: The Wall Thimble
is a three piece unit which includes the cover
plate, sleeve extension, and the back portion
with shield. On the outside wall, install the
back portion of the Wall Thimble. Center the back portion of the Wall Thimble
(with shield inside wall) in the framed opening of the outside wall. Be sure to seal
the flange of the Wall Thimble around the wall by using a non-hardening waterproof
sealant. Attach the back portion of the Wall Thimble to the outside wall using at least
(4) 8-penny nails or (4) #8, 1-1/2″ wood screws. Depending on the thickness of
your wall, you will need to adjust the shield extension to insure that you have a
continuous shield throughout the wall penetration. You may field-fabricate a longer
extension tube if needed. Adjustments can be made by sliding the extension in or
out of the back portion of the shield. Verify that the shield extension reaches the
CHIMNEY
SECTION
CHIMNEY TEE
TEE BRANCH
(MUST PENETRATE
A MINIMUM OF 6
INCHES INTO
ROOM)
WALL THIMBLE
ASSEMBLY
TEE CAP
FINISHING COLLAR
Fig 24
ACCESS
DOOR FOR
CLEANING
TYPICAL THRUTHE-
WALL TEE
SUPPORTED
INSTALLATION
FRAMED
EXTERIOR
ENCLOSURE
CHASE TOP
FLASHING
MINIMUM 6 INCHES
CLEARANCE
BETWEEN CAP AND
CHASE TOP
Fig 23
17
USE 8-PENNY NAILS OR #8, 2-1/1″
WOOD SCREWS. USE 4 FOR EACH
SUPPORT LEG.
TEE SUPPORT IS ADJUSTIBLE TO
ALLOW FROM 2″-6″ CLEARANCE
FROM CHIMNEY TO WALL
front cover plate when the cover plate is in position. Do not install cover plate at
this time. When the shield extension is in position, secure it to the back portion of
the shield using (4) sheet metal screws (Fig 25).
4. Install Tee Support: Install the Tee Support on the outside wall. Position Tee
Support so that the chimney Tee will be centered inside the Wall Thimble (Figs 24,
25, & 26). The Tee Support may be installed either above the Tee or below the
Tee as seen in Figure 26. Important: Verify that Tee Support is level, and secure
the leg brackets of the Tee Support to the wall using (4) #8, 2-1/2″ screws for each
side. Slide support base over leg brackets to adjust for desired clearance to wall,
and secure by tightening bolts. (Figs 26 & 27).
5. Install Tee and Cleanout Chimney Section: Twist lock the Tee onto a
desired length of Chimney to be used as the cleanout section. Use only one chimney
section (any length) to attach to bottom of the Tee. Tighten support band around
TEE BRANCH
(MUST EXTEND
AT LEAST 6
INCHES INTO
ROOM)
WALL
THIMBLE
COVER
PLATE
SHIELD
EXTENSION
CHIMNEY
TEE
BACK OF WALL
THIMBLE (SECURE
WITH 4 NAILS OR 4
SCREWS)
INSIDE OUTSIDE
FINISHING
COLLAR
Fig 25
ADJUSTABLE WALL
STRAP – ALLOWS 2″-6″
CLEARANCE TO WALL
8-PENNY NAILS OR
#8, 2-1/2″ WOOD
SCREWS – 2 PER SIDE USE (4) 1/2″ SHEET
METAL SCREWS
TO SECURE BAND
AROUND CHIMNEY
ADJUSTABLE TEE
SUPPORT ALLOWS 2″-6″
CLEARANCE TO WALL
CLEANOUT CAP
USE 1/2″ SHEET
METAL SCREWS
TO SECURE BAND
TO SUPPORT BASE
INSTALLATION
WITH TEE ABOVE
TEE SUPPORT
(SHOWN WITH LEG
BRACKETS
MOUNTED BELOW
SUPPORT PLATE)
INSTALLATION
WITH TEE BELOW
TEE SUPPORT
(SHOWN WITH LEG
BRACKETS
MOUNTED ABOVE
SUPPORT PLATE)
Fig 26
18
8-PENNY NAILS OR #8, 2-1/2″
WOOD SCREWS – 4 PER SIDE
TEE SUPPORT MAY BE INSTALLED
WITH LEG BRACKETS ABOVE OR
BELOW SUPPORT PLATE AS SHOWN
19
chimney section at proper height to insure
that Tee is centered through Wall Thimble
(Fig 25 & 26). Use the 1/2″ sheet metal
screws provided to insure a tight connection
between support band and chimney
section. Connect support band to support
base using the 1/2″ sheet metal screws
provided (Fig 26). Twist lock Tee Cap
into bottom of Chimney Cleanout section.
6. Install Branch onto Tee: From inside
the house, attach the Chimney Branch (a
12″ or 18″ Chimney section, depending on
wall thickness, positioned horizontally used
to pass through the wall) to the Tee by twist
locking it clockwise. Important: The Chimney section used to penetrate through the
wall must extend at least 6″ into the room (Fig 25 & 27). Use high-temperature
sealant (500OF) to seal between the Wall Thimble and the Chimney on the outer
wall.
7. Install Cover Plate and Finishing Collar: After the Chimney Branch is
secured in place (penetrating at least 6″ into the room), slide the Cover Plate over
the Branch and attach it to the framing using (4) 1-1/4″ long, round head wood
screws. Be sure that the Branch is centered in the opening of the Cover Plate. Twist
lock the Finishing Collar on to the female end of the Chimney Branch by twisting
clockwise.
8. Complete Chimney: Attach the Chimney Sections as in Step 7 in the Ceiling
Supported Installation section (page 8). Secure the chimney to the wall with Wall
Straps at a minimum of 8-foot intervals and maintain at least 2 inches of clearance
to combustible materials. The Wall Straps are adjustable to allow from 2″- 6″
clearance to combustibles. Slip the Wall Straps around the chimney, tighten the
bolts, adjust the clearance, and fasten the Wall Straps to the wall with (4) #8, 1-
Fig 28
2 INCHES MINIMUM
ALLOW A MINIMUM 2 INCHES MINIMUM
OF 2 INCHES AIR
SPACE ON ALL SIDES
19
Fig 27
EXTENDED ROOF
SUPPORT
BRACKET
ADJUSTABLE
WALL STRAP
ADJUSTABLE
FLASHING
2 INCHES MINIMUM
FRAMED CHASE
ACCESS DOOR
FOR CLEANING
2 INCHES
MINIMUM
ADJUSTABLE
TEE SUPPORT
6 INCHES
MINIMUM
INTO ROOM
1/2″ long wood screws. Once the chimney is at the minimum height specified in
Figure 1, attach the Chimney Cap onto the top of the chimney by holding it by the
collar and twist locking it clockwise onto the Chimney Pipe. If the chimney
penetrates an overhang, frame for at least 2 inches of clearance, and install Flashing
and Storm Collar as described in Steps 9 & 10 for Ceiling Supported Installations
(page 9). Another option is to cut away the overhang for a 2-inch clearance (Fig
28). If the chimney extends more than 5 feet above the top Wall Strap or Flashing,
use an Extended Roof Support Bracket (See page 11).
9. Install Chase Top Flashing: It is recommended that a Tee Supported
Chimney be enclosed in a chase. If a chase enclosure has been constructed, you
can either use a standard flat-roof flashing, or you can use a Chase Top Flashing.
Using a Chase Top Flashing allows for a lower profile for the chimney. The Chase
Top Flashing has an opening that is 3″ larger in diameter than the DuraTech
Chimney. If the Chase Top Flashing can fit over your chase enclosure as required
(Fig 29) then install as directed, or trim as needed. However, if the Chase Top
Flashing is smaller than your chase enclosure, you will need to provide a galvanized
sheet capable of covering your chase and overhanging the sides by 1/2 – 3/4 inch.
Attach the Chase Top Flashing to the galvanized sheet using appropriate sheet metal
screws and non-hardening waterproof sealant. Use the Chase Top Flashing
Spacers to allow the proper air-gap clearances
on the galvanized sheet. The Chase Top Flashing
Spacers are available to insure that the
Fig 29
ALLOW A 1 INCH AIR
GAP BETWEEN
STORM COLLAR AND
CHASE TOP FLASHING
3/8 INCH AIR SPACE
ESTABLISHED BY
SPACERS
STORM
COLLAR
CHASE TOP
FLASHING
3/8 INCH
CHIMNEY
CAP
CHIMNEY
SECTIONS
6 INCH MINIMUM
CLEARANCE
BETWEEN BOTTOM
OF CAP AND CHASE
TOP FLASHING
FRAMED CHASE
ENCLOSURE
1/4 INCH
AIR
SPACE
1/4 INCH
SPACER
20
21
proper air-gap is maintained. Figure 29 displays in some detail, how these air gaps
are established using the Spacers and Chase Top Flashing. Secure the Chase Top
Flashing to the chase using a sufficient number of #8, 1-1/2″ wood screws, being
careful to insure the air gap is maintained between the flashing and the chase. Seal
the screw heads with non-hardening sealant. When installing the Storm Collar,
allow a 1″ air space between the bottom of the Storm Collar and the Chase Top
Flashing .
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS
1. Determine Chimney Size: Use Table 4 to determine the correct diameter
chimney for your fireplace.
2. Mount Anchor Plate: Chimneys for masonry fireplaces begin with an Anchor
Plate. Make sure the surface of the masonry chimney has a level surface on which
to attach the Anchor Plate. If the top of the masonry does not have a level surface,
then you will need to modify the masonry accordingly. Center the Anchor Plate over
the masonry flue opening, and seal the Anchor Plate with a high-temperature
(1000OF) sealant. Secure Anchor Plate with (4) 1/4″ x 2″ masonry anchors (Fig
30). It is very important that the Anchor Plate is level. Be sure to maintain a 1″ min.
clearance to combustibles from the Anchor Plate.
3. Attach Chimney: Twist lock the first Chimney Section clockwise onto the
Anchor Plate.
Table 4
CHIMNEY
HEIGHT
FIREPLACE
OPENING
WIDTH
DOTTED LINE REPRESENTS SAMPLE PROBLEM
EXAMPLE SHOWS FIREPLACE OPENING AS 36 INCHES WIDE,
30 INCHES HIGHT, AND THE CHIMNEY HEIGHT AS 20 FEET.
tHE CORRECT FLUE SIZE FOR THE SAMPLE PROBLEM IS 12
INCH DIAMETER CHIMNEY.
FIREPLACE
OPENING
HEIGHT
21
22
4. Finish Chimney: Install the rest of the chimney as directed in the Ceiling
Supported Installation section, Steps 4 through 10 (page 7). Refer to Figure 1 and
Table 4 for chimney height requirements. Always maintain at least 2 inches of
clearance to combustible materials, and enclose the chimney where it passes
through occupied areas. Use a Wall Strap for every eight (8) feet of chimney height.
ZERO-CLEARANCE FIREPLACE INSTALLATIONS
1. Manufacturer’s Instructions: Carefully read and comply with the
manufacturer’s installation instructions for your fireplace. Be sure that DuraTech
is approved for use with your appliance.
2. Anchor Plate: Attach an Anchor Plate to the fireplace top with (4) 5/8″ sheet
metal screws (Fig 31). Check with the appliance manufacture about the use of high
temperature sealants.
3. Chimney Sections: Attach a Chimney Section to the Anchor Plate by twistlocking
clockwise.
4. Completion: Install the remainder of the chimney as instructed for a standard
Ceiling-Supported installation, (using a Firestop Radiation Shield in the 1st
floor ceiling instead of the Support Box). Always maintain at least 2 inches of
clearance to combustibles, and enclose the chimney where it passes through
occupied areas.
CONNECTION FROM APPLIANCE TO CHIMNEY SYSTEM
1. Single Wall Stovepipe: If single wall stovepipe is desired, Simpson Dura-
Vent’s “Dura-Black” single-wall stovepipe is recommended. The connection to
the Ceiling Support Box, or Finishing Collar is made with a Dura-Black Slip
Connector or a Snap-Lock Adapter. The beaded end of the Slip Connector or
Fig 31
ANCHOR
PLATE
CHIMNEY
SECTION
SHEET
METAL
SCREWS (4
REQUIRED)
Fig 30
MASONRY
ANCHOR BOLTS
(4) REQUIRED
(NOT
FURNISHED)
EXISTING
MASONRY
CHIMNEY WITH
LEVELED SURFACE
HIGH
TEMP
SEALANT
ANCHOR
PLATE
MAINTAIN 1-INCH MIN.
CLEARANCE FROM ANCHOR
PLATE TO COMBUSTIBLES
23
Snap Lock Adapter slips into the opening in the Ceiling Support or Finishing Collar.
Align the tabs on the Slip Connector or Snap Lock Adapter with the notches in the
face of the Support Box or Finishing Collar, push it in and rotate to lock it in place.
Further instructions for assembling Dura-Black Stovepipe are contained in their
shipping cartons. Remember, the minimum clearance to combustibles for single
wall stovepipe is 18 inches.
2. Close Clearance Connector Pipe (DVL): Simpson Dura-Vent manufactures
a close clearance connector pipe, also referred to as “DVL”. DVL may be
positioned as close as 6 inches to a combustible wall, and as close as 8 inches to
a combustible ceiling, provided the appliance installation instructions permit this
distance. In order to join this type of connector to the Support Box or Finishing
Collar, a DVL Adapter is required. The DVL Adapter slips into the opening in the
Support Box or Finishing Collar. Align the tabs on the DVL Adapter with the slots
cut into the face of the Support Box or Finishing Collar, and push it in, and rotate
to lock it in place. Detailed instructions for assembling the remainder of the close
clearance system are included in the DVL shipping cartons.
3. Connection to Oil-Burning Appliance: DVL is especially recommended for
oil appliances because of the corrosive nature of oil-burning exhaust. When
connecting to an oil burning appliance, refer to National Fire Protection
Association Standard #211. Table 6-5.1.1 in NFPA 211 states that you must
allow for 18″ clearance to combustibles if you are using single wall vent
connector. If , however, your appliance is Type-L Vent listed and you are using
a listed Type-L Vent connector, then you are permitted to use the clearances as
specified by the vent listing.
CHIMNEY MAINTENANCE
1. Creosote and Soot: When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to produce creosote.
The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning
fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this
creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
2. Access: Chimneys must be installed so that access is provided for inspection
and cleaning.
3. When to Clean: The chimney should be inspected at least once every month
during the heating season to determine if creosote or soot has built up. Check spark
arrestor screens at least every 2 to 4 weeks. If creosote or soot has accumulated,
it should be cleaned or replaced to reduce the risk of chimney fire.
24
SIMPSON DURA-VENT, INC
PO Box 1510
Vacaville, CA
95696-1510
Vicksburg, MS
Feb 2002
L150
(800)-835-4429
(707)-446-4740 (FAX)
4. How to Clean: Have your chimney cleaned by a professional chimney sweep
if you have doubts about your ability to clean it. Use a plastic, wood, or steel brush.
Do not use a brush that will scratch the stainless steel liner of your chimney. Scrub
the spark arrestor with a wire brush. To remove the Chimney Cap for cleaning,
either twist counter-clockwise to remove the entire cap, or unscrew the four (4)
screws that attach the cap’s support legs to the cap base. The Tee Cleanout Cap
can be removed by turning counter-clockwise. Be sure to replace Tee Cleanout
Cap when you are finished cleaning the chimney.
5. Coal: To reduce corrosion in chimneys where coal is burned, clean the chimney
thoroughly within 48 hours of shutting down the stove for the season.
6. Chemical Cleaners: Use chemical cleaners only as a last resort, and use only
those which the manufacturer specifically warrants as being noncorrosive to the
chimney liner. Simpson Dura-Vent will assume no liability for damage resulting from
the use of chemical cleaners.
7. In Case of Fire: If a flue fire occurs, close all appliance air inlets, and call your
Fire Department. Do not use the chimney again, until it has been inspected for
possible damage.
8. Painting: As an option, you can coat all exterior metal parts, with the exception
of the Chimney Cap, with high temperature, rust proof paint. Wash the metal with
a vinegar and water solution before painting. Painting the chimney will help to
increase chimney life.
9. Creosote Formation: Simpson Dura-Vent assumes no liability for any
structural damage or roof contamination as the result of creosote formation. It is
the owner’s responsibility to comply with inspection and cleaning requirements as
described in these instructions, and those of the appliance manufacturer.
10. Warranty: Simpson Dura-Vent proudly offers a limited lifetime warranty on
DuraTech Chimney components. The warranty includes all components except
chimney caps, which are warranted for 5 years. For specific details, refer to the
printed warranty included in the Chimney Product Catalog. Dura-Vent, DuraTech
Chimney, DVL, Close Clearance Connector, and Dura-Black are the registered
trademarks of Simpson Dura-Vent Co., Inc.
Visit us on the Web at
www.duravent.com

Power Naturally – Installing Your Own Solar Panel

A D E TA I L E D G U I D E TO I N S TA L L I N G A
YOUR HOME IS PROBABLY YOUR BIGGEST
INVESTMENT, BUT DID YOU KNOW YOU CAN MAKE
AN INVESTMENT IN YOUR HOME THAT WILL PAY YOU
BACK WITH ENERGY SAVINGS? It’s photovoltaic power
— solar electric energy — and it harnesses the power of
sunlight to supply your home with electricity. Simply put,
photovoltaic (PV) systems produce electricity from sunlight
through cells that are installed on your roof or elsewhere
on your property. PV power doesn’t produce any noise or
pollution, it’s reliable and dependable, and it’s renewable
so it makes good sense for the environment. For example,
a 2.5 kW system will provide about 2,900 kilowatt hours
per year and can typically provide about 25 to 35% of an
average home’s electricity needs. The more energy efficient
your house is, the greater the impact of the PV system.
Power NaturallySM SM
Not only is photovoltaic power
GENTLER ON THE ENVIRONMENT, it is now
MORE AFFORDABLE than ever before.
This is because New York State is offering cash incentives to bring
down the cost of PV systems by 40 to 70%. These incentives from
NYSERDA — New York State Energy Research and Development
Authority — are available to all customers that pay the Systems
Benefit Charge to their electric utility. Working with an eligible
installer, you could receive between $4,000 and $5,000 per kilowatt
for PV systems up to a maximum of 15 kilowatts. The chart below
outlines the different incentive levels NYSERDA is now offering.
End-Use
Photovoltaic
Systems
$4.00 per Watt, direct current
$4.50 per watt for New York
ENERGY STAR® Labeled Homes
$5.00 per watt, direct current
Maximum of 70% of
total installed costs
All systems for customers not
eligible for net metering. Systems
must be greater than 500 Watts and
not more than 15kW.
Incentive
Level
All systems interconnected to
the electric grid and eligible for
net metering (served by residential
utility rates). Systems must be
greater than 500 watts and not
more than 10kW.
There are also tax credits of 25% of the purchase price of your system, not
to exceed $3,750, and help from the New York Energy $martSM Loan Fund,
which provides financing through special loan rates that are reduced by
4% at participating banks. Check www.PowerNaturally.org for more tax
and loan information.
In order to help you get started, we’ve put together this comprehensive
guide, which contains essential information on PV power, including how to
choose an installer, select a PV system, and calculate your potential energy
savings. It’s not a technical installation guide — your PV installer will
handle those issues — but it will explain how PV works and help you decide
if it’s right for you.
outlining
the steps
step 1 PV basics
If you’re interested in PV power, the first step is to learn the basics.
step 2 Conducting your own site survey
Now take a close look at your own home to find out if PV power
might be an option for you.
step 3 Choosing an installer
Once you’ve covered the basics, learn how to find and select an installer.
step 4 Understanding your system options
There are several PV systems to choose from — this section will help you
find the right one for your home.
step 5 Determining energy output and savings
Now you can get an idea of how much energy your PV system
might generate and what kind of savings that could mean for you.
step 6 Obtaining permits and approvals
This will give you an overview of permits and other approvals that
could be necessary when you’re installing a new PV system.
step 7 Final details
Check here for additional information resources available to you.
A TYPICAL TIMELINE FOR GETTING A PV SYSTEM UP AND RUNNING
INITIAL EDUCATION
CONTACT CONTRACTORS
RECEIVE PRICE QUOTES
CONTRACTOR CHOSEN
PERMITS RECEIVED
EQUIPMENT DELIVERED
SYSTEM INSTALLED AND TESTED
SYSTEM INSPECTED BY AHJ
(AUTHORITIES HAVING JURISDICTION)
INTERCONNECTION INSPECTION BY UTILITY
FULLY OPERATIONAL
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 WEEKS: 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
step 1
PV BASICS
PV technology converts sunlight directly into electricity throughout the day,
allowing you to produce your own electricity with no noise, air pollution, or
moving parts. The basic building block is the PV cell, which is connected to other
cells to create larger units called modules. Typically, modules are attached as
panels onto your existing roof or are designed directly into the roof so they act as
both a part of the roof or shingles and a solar module at the same time. The
integrated roofing option may make sense if you are building a new home or
considering replacing your current roof. Modules can also be set up as
freestanding units on the ground.
A PV system includes a collection of PV modules
that is usually connected to the utility grid. Systems
must be connected to the utility grid to be eligible
for the cash incentive offered by NYSERDA. The PV
modules produce direct current (DC) electricity, which
the system then converts to alternating current (AC)
electricity so it can be used to power your lights,
appliances, and other home electrical needs. Being
connected to the utility grid provides two additional
benefits. First, when your system doesn’t produce
enough electricity to power your home (when the sun
isn’t shining, for example), you automatically receive
the additional power you need from the utility. Second,
if you produce more electricity than you need — which
can happen on most sunny days — electricity flows
back through your meter to the utility. In fact, your
meter will run in reverse when your PV system
is producing more electricity than you need, and
you can receive a credit from the utility for the energy
you’re supplying but don’t use. (See Step 6 for more
information).
A good way to think of it is that purchasing a PV system is like paying for many years’
worth of electricity at once, since the cost is in the up-front purchase. Once your system
is installed there should be minimal maintenance. With the NYSERDA incentive program,
the cost of purchasing and installing a system is reduced by about half, but you’ll want
to examine your personal energy use and savings closely before choosing a PV system.
We’ll look at these issues in more detail later in this guide.
THE COST OF A
PV SYSTEM VARIES
ACCORDING TO THE
OVERALL SIZE
AND NUMBER OF
MODULES YOU USE.
A SMALLER SYSTEM
MAY COST LESS
INITIALLY, BUT
REMEMBER, IT WILL
PRODUCE LESS
ELECTRICITY TOO.
If you’re building a new home, you can enjoy even greater savings when you participate
in New York’s ENERGY STAR® Labeled Homes program. These homes use 30% less energy
than conventionally built homes by incorporating the best construction practices and energysaving
measures into your home. New York’s ENERGY STAR® homes are also eligible for a
PV incentive level that is $500 per kW higher than a regular home built to code.
For more information, go to www.getenergysmart.org.
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:
Array
To Lighting,
Appliances, etc
AC
Power
Utility Grid
DC
Power
Inverter
(DC TO AC)
Excess
electricity
produced by
the PV system
goes into the
utility grid
where others
can use it.
Electricity
Meter
Typical Grid-Connected PV System
(Without Battery Backup System)
Electrical Panel
Photovoltaic (PV)
Panels convert
sunlight to
DC electric power
DC=Direct Current AC=Alternating Current
step 2
CONDUCTING YOUR OWN SITE SURVEY
The amount of electricity generated by a PV system depends on
a number of different factors, and the first step is to look at your
own home. The reason for this is quite simple: the amount of
electricity you produce is determined by how much sun
reaches your system. You’ll want to look at a few basic areas
to make sure your house is well suited for a PV system and that
you maximize the energy your system produces by placing it in
the most advantageous location.
1.
2.
3.
The first question to ask yourself is whether your property has good
access to the sun. In New York, the sun is in the southern half of the
sky and is higher in summer and lower in winter. This means the best
location for a PV system is typically a south-facing roof, but east and
west may be fine as well.
You’ll also want to look for objects such as trees, vent pipes on your
roofs, chimneys, or buildings that could block or obstruct the sun
from reaching your system. You’ll want to determine how large the
obstruction is and how long it casts a shadow onto your roof or other
proposed PV system site. Your PV installer will have special tools to
help measure shading.
If you think there are potential trouble areas, then it’s a good idea to
use the Clean Power Estimator available at www.PowerNaturally.org
to conduct a more thorough examination. Your PV installer can also
assist with this analysis.
If all obstructions to the east and west of your PV array
are more than two times the distance from the system
as they are high, and obstructions south of the PV
system are more than three times the distance from
the system as they are high, then your PV system
should have no more than 10% loss due to shading.
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:
step 3
CHOOSING AN INSTALLER
Your PV installer not only sells and sets up your system, he or she also ensures that
you get the system that is right for your home and your energy needs. By working
closely with your installer, you can identify any potential trouble spots and come up
with solutions so you get the most out of your PV system. Ultimately, it means your
system will run more efficiently and produce the optimal amount of energy.
Based on these conversations, you should solicit price quotes from at least three installers.
The quotes should include a clear outline of how much your system can produce at its
capacity rating, as well as estimated annual energy generation. Energy generation will
fluctuate from year to year due to changes in the amount of sunlight, so you should
remember that your actual system output may be higher or lower than the estimate.
Of course, the quote should include details on the “fully loaded” cost of getting the PV system
up and running, including hardware and installation costs, connection to the electric grid,
permitting, applicable incentives, and warranties. Lastly, remember that you’ll be working
with your PV installer for several months, so choose one you think you can work with closely.
* Neither NYSERDA nor the State of New York: (1) endorse any Eligible Installer; or (2) guaranty, warranty, or in any way represent or
assume liability for any work proposed or carried out by an Eligible Installer. Additionally, NYSERDA is not responsible for assuring that the
design, engineering and construction of the project or installation of any photovoltaic (PV) system is proper or complies with any particular
laws, regulations, codes, licensing, certification and permit requirements, or industry standards. NYSERDA does not make any
representations of any kind regarding the results to be achieved by the PV systems or the adequacy or safety of such measures.
To help you get started, take a look at the list of eligible
installers at www.PowerNaturally.org. These PV installers
are part of the NYSERDA incentive program, so they’ll be
offering you cash incentives for PV system sales and
installation. Each eligible installer who has applied for and
been accepted as part of the program provides evidence of
his or her skills, experience, and customer track record.*
And as NYSERDA incentive participants, every eligible
installer is offering a minimum five-year warranty that
covers full costs, including labor, and repair or replacement
of components or systems.
Once you’ve reviewed the list, you’ll want to narrow it
down by calling several different installers and asking
them about their experience and working practices. One
of the first considerations may be their location, since it may
be easier and less expensive if they are located close to you.
ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PV DECISIONS YOU’LL MAKE IS
CHOOSING AN INSTALLER.
OTHER QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER:
Have they installed gridconnected
systems before?
How many years have they
been in business?
What is their process and
timing for installing a system
from initial site visit through
completion?
WHAT IS A CERTIFIED INSTALLER?
The North American Board of Certified Energy
Practitioners(NABCEP) has developed a national
voluntary certification program for PV installers.
Ask your installer if they are certified by NABCEP
or pursuing NABCEP certification. www.nabcep.org
UNDERSTANDING YOUR SYSTEM OPTIONS
There are several different options when it comes to choosing a system. Most PV
systems produce about 10 watts of power for each square foot of PV module. This means that
you can install a small starter system on as little as 50 square feet of roof space, or as large
as 1,000 square feet for a more powerful system. A typical two kilowatt system will need 200
to 400 square feet of unobstructed area, but always make sure you’re able to access your
system easily. This access space can add up to 20% to the total space you need for your
system.
A PV array can be built onto any type of roof, but the installation cost can vary
based on the type of roofing material. For example, composition-shingle roofs are quite
easy to work with, while slate roofs are much more difficult. Your PV installer should be
able to work with all roof types and should discuss any problem areas with you. One
area that you’ll want to look at quite closely is the age and condition of your roof. If your
roof is old and will need to be replaced soon, you may want to consider replacing the roof
and installing the PV system at the same time. This will eliminate having to take down
the PV system and reinstall it in the future.
No matter how large — or
how small — your system is,
you’ll need to decide where
to locate it. The most common
choice is to position the modules
on your roof. The system, or
array, can be mounted above
and parallel to the roof with a
space between the roof and the
array to allow for cooling. The
modules are typically positioned
parallel to the roof so that they
blend in as much as possible.
If, however, your roof is flat,
a PV array may be installed
at an angle to optimize the
amount of sunlight it receives.
step 4
A roof-integrated PV system with solar hot water collectors on the left.
NO MATTER WHAT THE SYSTEM,
YOU CAN CHOOSE ONE WITH
BATTERY BACKUP OR ONE
WITHOUT. A battery backup system
stores energy so your home can be
powered when the sun isn’t shining
(really cloudy day), at night, or during
a utility outage. The amount of
energy your battery system can
provide will depend on the storage
capacity of your system. Systems
with battery backup are more
expensive, however the incremental
investment is worth considering if
you want to have power for critical
loads during outages and the added
reliability is important to you.
If your roof isn’t made of composition shingles, then it will most likely
require a flashed penetration to ensure that it’s properly sealed against
rainwater. Make sure that your PV installer offers a written guarantee that
the roof will not leak as a result of the PV system for at least five years.
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:
If you are considering a new roof or are
building a new home, you should investigate
a roof-integrated system – Building-Integrated
PV Array, or BIPV. This option incorporates the
PV modules into the actual roofing material, so
the roof acts as the solar collector. BIPV’s are
available as roofing shingles or metal roofing
products and are great because they’re designed
to look like traditional roofing materials. You
do need to take extra care to make sure they’re
installed properly, so be sure to discuss
this with your installer.
Lastly, you can install the array for your PV
system as a ground-mounted structure, or you
can even mount the array off the ground as a
shade or patio cover.
PV SYSTEM
SIZE OR kW
2.0 kW
4.0 kW
ESTIMATED
ANNUAL ENERGY
2300 kWh
4600 kWh
$0.08/kWh
$184.00
$368.00
$0.10/kWh
$230.00
$460.00
$0.12/kWh
$276.00
$552.00
$0.14/kWh
$322.00
$644.00
UTILITY ELECTRIC ENERGY RATE
step 5
DETERMINING ENERGY OUTPUT AND SAVINGS
One of the most important questions you’ll have when you’re considering
PV power is how much your system will cost and how much it will save
you. A good place to start is to understand how much electricity you currently
use. You can do this by looking at your electricity bills for the past year or by
contacting your utility. This will give you a baseline so you know how much
electric energy you’re using now and how much you’ll be able to offset by
installing a PV system.
Your energy savings with a PV system can be estimated by multiplying the energy
in kilowatt-hours (kWh) that your system might produce each year by the electric
energy rate charged by your utility. The chart below shows the estimated annual
energy savings from a small (2 kW) and a large (4 kW) system to illustrate a range
of savings based on four different electric rates.
To get a better idea of
your own savings, use the
Clean Power Estimator at
With the Clean Power Estimator
you’ll be able to run several in-depth
analyses with your own details so
you can see if solar electric power
makes financial sense for you. The
Clean Power Estimator also includes
information on cash incentives
currently offered by NYSERDA.
www.PowerNaturally.org
kWh per kW
CITY (range)
Albany 1064-1315
Plattsburgh 1063-1313
Watertown 1035-12 79
Buffalo 994-1227
Rochester 1007-1244
Syracuse 1035-1279
Binghamton 1017-1256
Poughkeepsie 1116-1379
If you’re installing a roof-mounted system, the tilt and orientation of your roof
will affect your system’s output. For example, in New York State, a 30-degree
roof tilt facing south produces the greatest output, while an east-facing roof
with the same tilt will generate 19% less electricity.
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:
The larger the system, the more
electricity you’ll be able to generate,
but at a higher up-front cost. You
should consider four factors when
choosing a system: your energy
needs, the amount of the energy
you can generate, whether you
want a battery backup system, and
the system costs. What you should
remember is that no matter what
system you choose, the actual output
will vary due to environmental and
system fluctuations. The adjacent
chart is designed to give you a
conservative estimate of the amount
of power generated by a one-kilowatt
(1kW) system. Ask your PV provider
how much electricity your system
will produce each year and how that
compares with the amount of
electricity you typically use each year.
THE QUESTION WILL THEN BE HOW LARGE A SYSTEM YOU WANT TO INSTALL.
step 6
OBTAINING PERMITS AND APPROVALS
If you have a PV system installed, you’ll need to make sure you have the
proper permits and approvals before you begin work. Your installer should be
able to handle most of these details, but you should be familiar with them as well
to make sure you have everything you need.
CODES, COVENANTS, AND RESTRICTIONS
Often called CC&Rs, these are requirements imposed by neighborhoods
or local jurisdictions that often govern the aesthetics of a project.
If CC&Rs are in place in your area, you may need to submit plans
and obtain approval before you can begin work. Check with your
neighborhood association or town council to find out if there are
any applicable CC&Rs.
ELECTRICAL AND STRUCTURAL PERMITS
The most common permit you’ll need for your PV system is an electrical
permit. Photovoltaic systems are included in the National Electrical Code
in Article 690. Your installer should be familiar with this and ensure you
have the proper permit before work commences.
Also, you should determine if you’ll need a structural permit as well.
Normally, structural permits are issued if it is deemed that the project
will have a significant impact on an existing structure or involve a new
structure that could put people or property at risk if the structure
collapsed.
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB:
If your home is less than 30 years old, it should not
need structural enhancements as long as the PV
system weighs less than five pounds, per square foot.
Most PV systems meet this weight restriction. However,
if you have two layers of shingles on your roof, you
must remove both layers and install new shingles
before you install a system.
• In order to be connected to the grid, you and your installer will need to
complete a contract with the utility. This contract includes important system
information and shows that you understand your responsibilities in running
and maintaining your system. Normally, the contract will be finalized once
the utility confirms that the equipment has been installed properly and that
all requirements have been met.
• One requirement of the interconnection agreement is that you have a
minimum level of insurance in place. This should be covered by your
current homeowner’s insurance policy, but make sure your current
coverage is sufficient to meet the interconnection requirements.
• You will also need to complete a net metering agreement
with the utility for residential systems of 10kW or less.
Interconnecting a photovoltaic system to the utility grid
requires an interconnection agreement as well as a sale
and purchase agreement, or a net metering agreement
with your local utility. Your PV installer and utility
company will be able to go through this with you in
more detail.
UTILITY INTERCONNECTION
STANDARDS AND CONTRACTS
In order to be connected to the utility grid,
you must follow interconnection standards
as set out in Institute of Electrical and
Electronic Engineers (IEEE) 929-2000
(www.ieee.org) and New York State
Public Service Commission’s Standard
Interconnection Requirements
(www.dps.state.ny.us/distgn.html).
It is vital that you inform your utility
as early as possible that you will be
installing a grid-connected PV system
and adhere to their rules exactly. Your
PV installer should be familiar with
entering into an interconnection
agreement with your utility.
PERFORMANCE EVALUATION
Once your system is installed, your PV installer will run a series of
tests to make sure your system is up and running properly. Make sure
you receive a copy of this evaluation, and keep it as part of your system
documentation. Other vital documents to keep with this are your owner’s
manual, copies of any plan drawings, and instructions for any future
maintenance.
UTILITY AND INSPECTION SIGN-OFFS
After your system is installed, it must be inspected by the local
permitting agency (typically this is a building and/or electrical inspector).
Most likely, your system will be inspected by the utility as well. These
inspections may identify problem areas that need to be corrected, so
don’t be alarmed — this is fairly common and your PV installer can
deal with most issues easily. Additionally, NYSERDA may inspect systems
that have been installed through any of its incentive programs.
SYSTEM MAINTENANCE AND MONITORING
PV systems require very little maintenance, but you should discuss
this with your installer and review any recommended maintenance
procedures. One of the easiest ways to check your system’s performance
is to monitor your own electricity meter. This will give you an idea of
how much electricity you are using and if your PV system is performing
properly. Through the NYSERDA program, your system will include an
easy-to-read digital meter that can help you monitor real-power output
and energy production.
WARRANTIES
All PV installers operating under the NYSERDA incentive program
will provide you with a full five-year guarantee that covers full costs,
including labor, and repair or replacement of components or systems.
Some installers may offer additional warranties, and you should discuss
this with them in detail to make sure you understand what they cover
in case a problem arises.
step 7
FINAL DETAILS
PURCHASING A PV SYSTEM
CAN BE ONE OF THE MOST
EXCITING MOVES YOU
MAKE AS A HOMEOWNER.
It offers you the chance to use
your own home to produce power
for appliances, lighting, and other
electrical needs. If you have
questions or need additional
information, contact NYSERDA
at 1-866-697-3732 or visit us at
www.PowerNaturally.org. We’ve
also listed some other resources
too that will provide you with
more information. Customers of
the Long Island Power Authority
should visit www.lipower.org for
information about PV incentives.
New York Power Authority
customers should visit
www.nypa.org.
NYSERDA
www.PowerNaturally.org
NEW YORK STATE SOLAR ENERGY INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION
www.nyseia.org
AMERICAN SOLAR ENERGY SOCIETY (ASES)
www.ases.org
FLORIDA SOLAR ENERGY CENTER
www.fsec.ucf.edu
INTERSTATE RENEWABLE ENERGY COUNCIL
www.irecusa.org
MILLION SOLAR ROOFS
www.millionsolarroofs.com
NATIONAL RENEWABLE ENERGY LABORATORY
www.nrel.gov
NATIONAL CENTER FOR PHOTOVOLTAICS
www.nrel.gov/ncpv/
REPP-CREST
www.crest.org
SOLAR ELECTRIC POWER ASSOCIATION
www.solarelectricpower.org
SOLAR ENERGY INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION
www.seia.org
SOLAR RATING AND CERTIFICATION CORPORATION (SRCC)
www.solar-rating.org
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF ENERGY OFFICE OF ENERGY
EFFICIENCY AND RENEWABLE ENERGY
www.eren.doe.gov
U.S. GREEN BUILDING COUNCIL
www.usgbc.org
INSTITUTE FOR SUSTAINABLE POWER
www.ispq.org
SOLAR ELECTRIC SYSTEM DESIGN TUTORIAL
www.eren.doe.gov/erec/factsheets/pvbasics.html
The New York State Energy Research
and Development Authority (NYSERDA)
is a public benefit corporation created
in 1975 by the New York State
legislature. NYSERDA administers the
The New York Energy $martSM program,
which is designed to support certain
public benefit programs during the
transition to a more competitive
electricity market. Some 2,700
projects in more than 30 programs
are funded by a charge on the electricity
transmitted and distributed by the
State’s investor-owned utilities.
The New York Energy $martSM
program provides energy efficiency
services, including those directed
at the low-income sector,
research and development, and
environmental protection activities.
For more information about
NYSERDA programs, visit
www.NYSERDA.org
What is NYSERDA?
For more information
on solar power, visit:

How To Build & Install a Rain Barrel

How to Build and Install a Rain Barrel
STEP 2. Set Up Barrel and Modify Downspout
! Set up barrel
Since water will only flow from the garden hose when the hose is below the barrel, place the barrel on
high ground or up on cinder blocks or a sturdy wooden crate underneath your downspout.
! Modify your downspout
Cut your existing downspout using a saw so that the end can be placed over the top of your rain barrel.
Use a 3” vinyl downspout elbow to connect the two downspout pieces (or use a downspout adapter and
a piece of corrugated plastic pipe). Trim the end of the downspout if necessary.
STEP 1. Cut Holes in Barrel
! Cut lower drain hole
Measure about 1 inch above the bottom of the barrel where the barrel side begins to rise toward the
top. Using a ¾” bit (or hole saw), drill a hole through the barrel.
! Cut upper drain hole
Mark the upper drain hole according to where you want the overflow to be located in relationship to the
lower drain. Use a 1-5/8” hole saw to cut out the overflow hole.
! Cut top hole for atrium grate (filter)
Using the atrium grate as a template for size, mark a circle at the center of the top of the drum
(locating the rainwater inlet in the center of the barrel lets you pivot the barrel without moving the
downspout). Drill a ½” hole inside of the marked circle. Use a router, jigsaw or coping saw to cut until
the hole is large enough to accommodate the atrium grate, which filters out large debris. Don’t make
the hole too big – you want the flange of the atrium grate to fit securely on the top of the barrel without
falling in.
! Cut notch to hold hose
Using a ½” bit or hole saw, cut out a notch at the top of the barrel rim (aligned so that it is above the
lower drain hole). The notch should be large enough so that the end of the hose with the adapter will
firmly snap into place.
STEP 3. Assemble Parts
! Attach garden hose to lower drain hole
Screw in the ½” PVC male adapter to the lower drain hole. The hard PVC threads cut matching
grooves into the soft plastic of the barrel. Unscrew the ½” PVC male adapter from the hole. Wrap
threads tightly with teflon tape (optional). Coat the threads of the coupler with waterproof sealant
(optional). Screw the coated adapter back into the hole and let it sit and dry for 24 hours (optional).
Attach 5’ foot garden hose to the PVC male adapter. Attach the ¾” x ½” PVC male adapter to the other
end of the hose (this can be readily adapted to fit a standard garden hose).
! Attach drain hose to upper drain hole
Put the 1¼” male threaded coupling inside the barrel with the threads through the hole. From the
outside, screw the 1¼” female barbed fitting onto the threaded coupling. Use silicone on the threads
(optional). Attach 5’ section of drain hose to upper fitting.
! Place atrium grate and screen in top hole
Using PVC glue, secure a piece of fine mesh window screen inside or outside of the atrium grate to
filter out debris and control mosquitoes (optional). Place the atrium grate into the hole (basket down).
! Position the downspout
Position the end of your downspout so it drains onto the atrium grate on the rain barrel.
What Is a Rain Barrel?
A rain barrel collects and stores rainwater
from your rooftop to use later for things
like lawn and garden watering. Water collected
in a rain barrel would normally flow
through your downspout, onto a paved
surface, and eventually into a storm drain.
Why Use Rain Barrels?
!Rain barrels help lower water costs
(a rain barrel can save approximately
1,300 gallons of water during
peak summer months).
Instructions
Steps 1-3 below explain how to build and install your rain barrel. The supplies listed above can all be
found at most home improvement and hardware stores. The 55-gallon drums are available for $5 from
the Pepsi Bottling Company in Baltimore, or you can purchase a ready-to-install barrel from the South
River Federation. For more information contact the Rain Barrel Community Action Team at #410-
721-0661 or actionteams@southriverfederation.org.
This instructional flyer was
created by the South River
Federation and the Center for
Watershed Protection
August, 2002
This project was funded
through a grant from the
Chesapeake Bay Trust
Tools and supplies
Cut hole for atrium grate
(for filtering leaves)
Position downspout to drain
into rain barrel
a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a
Attach overflow hose
Attach
garden hose
for watering
Modified downspout
water flows to rain barrel
through screened atrium
grate
Overflow drain
pipe, when
barrel is full
water flows
onto lawn
Garden hose
for watering
when not in
use clip to top
of barrel
Optional spigot
SUPPLIES
! One 55-gallon drum
! One 5’ section vinyl garden hose (3/4” OD x 5/8” ID)
! One 4” diameter atrium grate (basket used in garden ponds and
pool skimmers)
! One 1/2” PVC male adapter
! One 3/4” x 1/2” PVC male adapter
! One 5’ section of drain hose, drain line, or sump pump line (1-1/4”)
! One 1-1/4” female barbed fitting and one 1-1/4” male threaded coupling
! One vinyl gutter elbow
! Drill (or a hole saw)
! Router, jig saw or coping saw
! Measuring tape
Optional
! Waterproof sealant (silicone caulk, PVC glue)
! Teflon tape
! Fiberglass window screen material
or mosquito netting
! Cinder blocks or wooden crate
Sources
Pepsi Bottling Company
Charlie Dickerson #410-366-3500
South River Federation
Rain Barrel Community Action Team
#410-721-0661
actionteams@southriverfederation.org
Arlington Echo Outdoor Education Center
www.arlingtonecho.net
Maryland Green Building Program
www.dnr.state.md.us/smartgrowth/greenbuilding/
rainbarrel.html
!
Storing rainwater for garden and lawn use helps recharge groundwater
naturally .
! Rain barrels reduce water pollution by reducing stormwater runoff,
which can contain pollutants like sediment, oil, grease, bacteria, and nutrients.
! Rain barrels are inexpensive and easy to build and install.
Native Plants for Rain Gardens
= sun or part sun = part sun/part shade = shade
Ferns
rattlesnake fern
hay-scented fern
Grasses
blue wood sedge
Canada wild rye
bottle brush grass
Virginia wild rye
Perennials
butterflyweed
New England aster
joe-pye weed
wild snakeroot
cardinal flower
wild bergamot
blue-eyed grass
hosta
grass-leaf blazingstar
Shrubs
mountain laurel
highbush blueberry
spicebush
inkberry
sweet pepperbush
Solomon’s seal
black-eyed Susan
wild pink
purple coneflower
yellowflag iris
St. John’s wort
early goldenrod
daylily
Step 1: Size and Locate your Rain Garden
First, measure the footprint of your house and determine how much of your rooftop area drains to the
downspout you’re using for your garden (for gutters with a downspout at each end, assume that half
the water goes to each downspout). Be sure you measure the house footprint only; do not take the
roof slope into account. The surface area of your rain garden should be between 20% and 30% of the
roof area that will drain into the rain garden. Locate the garden at least 10 feet away from the house
(to prevent soggy basements), and maintain a minimum 1% slope from the lawn down to the rain
garden (you can also create a shallow ditch to ensure the water flows from roof to the garden, or use
a downspout extension to direct the flow into the garden). Lay out the boundary of the garden with a
rope.
Rain garden sizing example:
30’ x 30’ house area
1/4 of this area drains to one downspout
15’ x 15’ = 225 ft2
20% of 225ft2 = 45ft2
30% of 225ft2 = 67.5ft2
The rain garden area should be between 45 and 67.5 square feet,
depending on soil type (use 20% for sandier soils).
Step 2: Dig the Rain Garden
To enable the rain garden to hold several inches of water during a storm, you’ll have to dig a hole 3-
4 inches deep across the entire surface of the garden. If the soil lacks organic material, you can
improve it by digging the hole 5-6 inches deep, and adding 2-3 inches of humus or other organic
material. Make sure the bottom is level. Next, test how the garden will hold water during a storm by
letting water flow into the rain garden from a hose placed at the downspout. Based on this test,
make any necessary adjustments (e.g., create a berm on the lower side of the garden using the
diggings, or use a downspout extension or shallow ditch to direct the water into the garden).
Step 3: Add Plants to the Rain Garden
Choose drought-tolerant plants that won’t require much watering, but make sure they can withstand
wet soils for up to 24 hours. A list of native plants that meet these criteria is provided below. Also
take into account how much sun your garden receives. It’s often helpful to draw out a planting plan
before you start, and mark planting areas within the garden with string. After planting, weeding may
be required until the plants become more established. You may also need to periodically prune some
of the plants to let others grow. In the winter, leave dead or dormant plants standing and cut back in
the spring. Your garden may need a bit more maintenance than a lawn in the beginning, but in the
long run it will be easier to care for and provide many added benefits!
What Is a Rain Garden?
A rain garden uses native landscaping to soak up rain water from your downspout. The middle
part of the garden holds several inches of water, allowing it to slowly infiltrate into the ground
instead of being delivered to the stormdrain all at once.
This instructional flyer was created by the South River Federation and the Center for Watershed Protection, August 2002
This project was funded through a grant from the Chesapeake Bay Trust
1/4 of the roof drains to one
downspout = 15’ x 15’
dig down 3-4 inches
lay out the site
add plants
a beautiful two-year old rain garden!
Sources
Weems Creek Conservancy www.weemscreek.org
Rain Gardens: A household way to improve water quality in
your community University of Wisconsin -Extension and
Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources http://cleanwater.
uwex.edu/pubs/raingarden/gardens.pdf
15 feet 15 feet
How to Install a Rain Garden
Instructions
Follow the three steps below to install a rain garden in your yard. Materials you’ll need include
plants for the garden (see plant list below); a hose, rope or string; a level; a shovel or spade;
humus or other soil amendments (optional); a measuring tape; and a downspout extension (also
optional).
Source: Roger Bannerman
Source: Roger Bannerman
Source: Roger Bannerman
Source: Corinne Reed-Miller
Source: Corinne Reed-Miller
Source: Corinne Reed-Miller
Why Install a Rain Garden?
A rain garden allows 30% more water to infiltrate into the ground than a conventional lawn. This helps replenish the groundwater supply (important during
a drought!), and reduces the amount of pollution that reaches our streams through stormwater runoff. Since studies show that the first inch of rainfall is
responsible for the bulk of the pollutants in stormwater, a rain garden is designed to temporarily
hold water from a one-inch rainstorm, and slowly filter out many common pollutants like sediment,
oil, grease and nutrients. Rain gardens require less watering and fertilizer than conventional lawns,
and provide habitat for birds and butterflies.
The South River Federation (SRF) is a non-profit organization dedicated to restoring, protecting
and preserving the South River watershed. For more information on how you can help the protect
the South River or for information about membership, rain barrels or rain gardens, visit SRF’s
website at www.geocities.com/RainForest/Wetlands/2002/ or call Drew Koslow, SRF president,
at #410-990-9173 or send email to membership@southriverfederation.org
What Is the South River Federation?

CONCRETE AND CLAY ROOF TILE INSTALLATION MANUAL

CONCRETE AND CLAY
ROOF TILE INSTALLATION MANUAL
Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning
Contractors Association, Inc.
Tile Roofing Institute
© Copyright 2001 by FL Roofing, Sheet Metal and A/C Contractors Assoc. & Tile Roofing Institute
i
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
PREFACE
In January, 1987, the Roof Tile Committee of the FRSA/NTRMA was commissioned to develop and write
consensus guidelines for the installation of concrete and clay roof tiles. Recently, the National Tile
Roofing Manufacturers Association (NTRMA) changed its name to Tile Roofing Institute. The consensus
document process included meetings over a period of eighteen (18) years, made up of roofing contractors,
manufacturers, suppliers, academia, roofing consultants, and engineers.
These guidelines were approved by a consensus vote of participating members. These guidelines are
updated or reaffirmed by the same process at intervals not exceeding three (3) years.
These guidelines were developed to summarize for the designer, applicator or developer good roofing
practice and industry guidelines for the installation of the mechanically-set and mortar/ adhesive-set tiles,
which have been developed over a period of time from actual trade practice and the requirements of various
building code agencies. These guidelines may not be applicable in all geographical areas. It is the
responsibility of those individuals who are referring to these guidelines to independently research and
determine which is best for their particular project. Accordingly, the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air
Conditioning Contractors Association and the Tile Roofing Institute and their members expressly disclaim
any express or implied warranties or any liability for any damages or loss that might be incurred as a result
of the use of these guidelines.
ii
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
STANDARDS
This document incorporates by reference the following specifications and standards:
APA PS 1 Construction and Industrial Plywood
ASTM A 90 Standard Test Method for Weight (Mass) of Coating on Iron and Steel Articles with
Zinc or Zinc-Alloy Coatings
ASTM A 653 Standard Specification for General Requirements for Steel Sheet, Zinc-Coated
(Galvanized) by the Hot-Dip Process
ASTM A 641 Standard Specification for Zinc-Coated (Galvanized) Carbon Steel Wire
ASTM C 91 Standard Specification for Masonry Cement
ASTM C 144 Standard Specification for Aggregate for Masonry Mortar
ASTM C 150 Standard Specification for Portland Cement
ASTM C 270 Standard Specification for Mortar for Unit Masonry
ASTM C 332 Standard Specification for Lightweight Aggregates for Insulating Concrete
ASTM C 1167 Standard Specification for Clay Roof Tiles
ASTM C 1492 Standard Specification for Concrete Roof Tiles
ASTM D 226 Standard Specification for Asphalt-Saturated Organic Felt Used in Roofing and
Waterproofing(Organic Felt) with Mineral Granules
ASTM D 312 Standard Specification for Asphalt Used in Roofing
ASTM D 1056 Standard Specification for Flexible Cellular Materials – Sponge or Expanded Rubber
ASTM D 1621 Standard Test Method for Compressive Properties of Rigid Cellular Plastics
ASTM D 1622 Standard Test Method for Apparent Density of Rigid Cellular Plastics
ASTM D 1623 Standard Test Method for Tensile and Tensile Adhesion Properties of Rigid Cellular
Plastics
ASTM D 2126 Standard Test Method for Response of Rigid Cellular Plastics to Thermal and
Humid Aging
ASTM D 2842 Standard Test Method for Water Absorption of Rigid Cellular Plastics
ASTM D 2626 Standard Specification for Asphalt-Saturated and Coated Organic Felt Base Sheet
Used in Roofing
ASTM D 2856 Standard Test Method for Open Cell Content of Rigid Cellular Plastics by the Air
Pycnometer
ASTM D 3019 Standard Specification for Lap Cement Used with Asphalt Roll Roofing
ASTM D 3498 Standard Specification for Adhesives for Field-Gluing Plywood to Lumber Framing
for Floor Systems
ASTM D 4586 Standard Specification for Asphalt Roof Cement, Asbestos-Free
ASTM D 6162 Standard Specification for SBS Polyester and Glass Fiber Reinforcement Mat
ASTM D 6163 Standard Specification for SBS with Glass Fiber Reinforcement Mat
ASTM D 6164 Standard Specification for Polyester Reinforcement Mat
ASTM D 6380 Standard Specification for Asphalt Roll Roofing
ASTM E 84 Standard for Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials
ASTM E 96 Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials
ASTM E 108 Standard for Fire Tests of Roof Coverings
AWPI C 2 Standard for Lumber, Timber, Bridge Ties and Mine Ties – Preservative Treatment
by Pressure Processes
F.S. QQ-L- Federal Specification for Sheet Lead
201-F,
Grade B or C
iii
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
PARTICIPATING TILE ROOFING INSTITUTE MEMBERS:
ALTUSA
COMA CAST CORP.
ENTEGRA SALES, INC.
DOW CHEMICAL
LUDOWICI ROOF TILE, INC.
MCA CLAY ROOF TILE
MONIERLIFETILE
HANSON ROOF TILE
POLYFOAM PRODUCTS, INC.
QUIK DRIVE USA, INC.
RINKER CEMENT CO.
U.S. TILE CO.
VANDE HEY – RALEIGH MFG., INC.
WESTILE ROOFING PRODUCTS
iv
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The FRSA/TRI acknowledges the devoted efforts of the joint Task Force of the FRSA/TRI. This group is
comprised of roofing contractors, manufacturers, suppliers, academia, roofing consultants, and engineers.
This Manual was prepared through the consensus guidelines process.
The following individuals served on the Task Force:
v
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Dale Adams
W.L. Albritton
Craig Anderson
Daniel Bernal
Richard Beymer
Bill Bieler
Earl Blank
Brad Bowen, III
Ted Bowers
Charles Breslauer
Jack Brown
Joe Bruckner
Bill Bryans
Joseph Byrne
John Campbell
Randall Carney
Danny Carson
Bryan Cassell
Jim Cheshire
Billy Cone
Jack Craig
Paul Croushore
Eddie Currier
Forest Dean
Clyde Denning
George Desiderio
S. Anthony DeVito
Les Dickson
Rick Divins
Jody Dove
Drew Duncan
Mike Duskin
Ed Engelmeier
Robert Ethridge
David Faulkner
Bob Ferrante
Barbara Fleck
Mike Fulton
Herbert Frank
Thomas C. Gans
Charles Goldsmith
Les Gory
Michael Gustafson
Greg Hageman
Mike Harak
Paul Hayes
Bob Hightower
Robbie Hightower
Bob Hilson
Jim Horton
John Hosford, III
Lew Howell
Mark Howland
Terry Johnson
Richard Kaspar
Les Knopf
Rob Kornahrens
Barbara Lamb
Robert Leslie
Deborah Liftig
Scott Lelling
Sean Lilly
Brent Lloyd
Burt Logan
Stuart Lyons
Bruce Manson
Sam Mattina
John Mayo
Bob McDonald
Ted McGee
Fernando Mendez
Manny Mendez
Walt Millet
Brad Molter
Reese Moody
Hans Mordrin
Greg Motter
Dave Noel
David Packard
Richard Pepin
George Peterson
Gregory Pierce
Bob Pike
Arturo Posada
Bob Purdy
Gary Register
Robert Ruiz
Chris Schulte
Walter Scott
David Shewski
Robert Shluzas
Alvin J. Singleton
David Snyder
Robert Shluzas
Mike Silvers
Loyal Slechta
Phil Spake
Tom Stanley
Cris Starr
Dave Stephens
Marvin Stokoe
Cliff Stutts
Bob Sutphin
Morris Swope
Doug Tait
Gary Thomas
Milton E. Thompson
Bill Tucker
Gary Vogt
Gary Waldrep
Tim Wallace
Kevin Watson
Keith Wesche
Bob Whatley
Andy Wieland
David Williams
Gerry Williams
Anthony Wilson
Carol Youmans
Joe Zambruski
Mark Zirzow
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
SYSTEM ONE
Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed metal flashings with edge returns. 1
Tiles are applied over the underlayment with mechanical fasteners to the deck with or without horizontal
battens.
QUICK REFERENCE CHART – TABLE 1 2
PART I – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Elsewhere 3
1.02 Quality Assurance 3
1.03 Submittals 3
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 3
1.05 Job Conditions 3
1.06 Warranty 3
PART II – PRODUCTS
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 4
2.01 Roof Tile 4
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 4
2.03 Membranes 4
2.04 Fasteners 4
2.05 Metal Flashings 5
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 5
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants 5
2.08 Mortar 5
2.09 Eave Closure 5
2.10 Coatings 5
2.11 Sheathing 5
PART III – EXECUTION
3.01 Inspection 6
3.02 Underlayment Application 6
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 8
3.04 Gable Treatment 8
3.05 Valleys (underlayment) 9
3.06 Valley Termination onto Roof Plane 11
3.07 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments 11
3.08 Head and Apron Flashing 12
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 14
3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 15
3.11 Batten Installation 16
3.12 Tile Installation 17
3.13 Flat / Low, Medium and High Profile Tile 19
3.14 Valleys (Tiles) 20
3.15 Hip Starter 21
3.16 Hip and Ridge Installation 21
vi
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Page
3.17 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 21
3.18 Rake/Gable Tile 21
3.19 Wall Abutments (Tile) 21
3.20 Coatings 21
3.21 Tile Replacement 21
3.22 Clean-up 21
3.23 Miscellaneous Recommendations 21
SYSTEM TWO
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings. Tiles are applied 22
with mechanical fasteners direct to waterproofed deck.
QUICK REFERENCE CHART – TABLE 1 23
PART 1 – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Elsewhere 24
1.02 Quality Assurance 24
1.03 Submittals 24
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 24
1.05 Job Conditions 24
1.06 Warranty 24
PART II – PRODUCTS
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 25
2.01 Roof Tile 25
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 25
2.03 Membranes 25
2.04 Fasteners 25
2.05 Metal Flashing 25
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 26
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants 26
2.08 Mortar 26
2.09 Eave Closure 26
2.10 Coating 26
2.11 Sheathing 26
PART III – EXECUTION
3.01 Inspection 27
3.02 Underlayment Application 27
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 29
3.04 Valleys 30
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments 33
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 36
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 36
3.08 Tile Installation 38
3.09 Flat, Low and High Profile Tile 40
3.10 Valleys (Tiles) 41
vii
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Page
3.11 Hip Starter 42
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation 42
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 42
3.14 Rake/Gable 43
3.15 Wall Abutments 43
3.16 Plumbing Stacks 43
3.17 Coatings 43
3.18 Tile Replacement 43
3.19 Clean-up 43
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations 43
SYSTEM THREE
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings. 44
Tiles are applied with mortar direct to waterproofed deck.
QUICK REFERENCE CHART – TABLE 1 45
PART I – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Elsewhere 46
1.02 Quality Assurance 46
1.03 Submittals 46
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 46
1.05 Job Conditions 46
1.06 Warranty 46
PART II – PRODUCT
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 47
2.01 Roof Tile 47
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 47
2.03 Membranes 47
2.04 Fasteners 47
2.05 Metal Flashings 47
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 48
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants 48
2.08 Mortar 48
2.09 Eave Closure 48
2.10 Coatings 48
2.11 Sheathing 48
PART III – EXECUTION
3.01 Inspection 48
3.02 Underlayment Application 48
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 50
3.04 Valleys 50
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments 52
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 52
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 56
3.08 Tile Installation 58
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Page
3.09 Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile 60
3.10 Valleys 64
3.11 Hip Starter 64
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation 64
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 65
3.14 Rake/Gable 65
3.15 Wall Abutments 66
3.16 Plumbing Stacks 66
3.17 Coatings 66
3.18 Tile Replacement 66
3.19 Clean-up 66
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations 66
SYSTEM FOUR
Option “A” — Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed metal 67
flashings with edge returns. Tiles are applied over the underlayment with adhesive
to the deck with or without horizontal battens.
Option “B” — Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings.
Tiles are applied with adhesive direct to waterproofed deck.
DIVISION 7 68
PART 1 – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere 68
1.02 Quality Assurance 68
1.03 Submittals 68
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling 68
1.05 Job Conditions 68
1.06 Warranty 68
PART 2 – PRODUCTS
2.00 Disclaimer Notice 69
2.01 Roof tile 69
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments 69
2.03 Membranes 69
2.04 Fasteners 69
2.05 Metal Flashing 69
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive 70
2.07 Roof Tile Adhesive 70
2.08 Mortar 70
2.09 Polyurethane adhesives 70
2.10 Eave Closure 70
2.11 Coating 70
2.12 Sheathing 71
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Page
QUICK REFERENCE CHART – UNDERLAYMENT OPTION “A” 72
SYSTEM #4 – OPTION “A”
3.02 Underlayment Application 73
3.03 Drip Edge Metal 75
3.04 Gable treatment 75
3.05 Valleys 76
3.06 Valley or Wall Flashings Termination onto Roof Plane 76
3.07 Flashing and Counter Flashings at all Abutments 77
3.08 Head & Apron Flashing 78
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 78
3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 81
3.11 Batten Installation 82
QUICK REFERENCE CHART – UNDERLAYMENT OPTION “B” 83
SYSTEM #4 – OPTION “B”
3.02 Underlayment Application 84
3.03 Eave Drip Metal 85
3.04 Valleys 85
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashing at Wall Abutments 88
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. 90
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. 90
PART IV – TILE APPLICATION
4.01 Tile Layout 94
4.02 Tile Installation 95
4.03 Flat / Low, Medium and High Profile Tile 96
4.04 Two Piece Barrel Tile 97
4.05 Valleys 98
4.06 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards 99
4.07 Hip Starter 99
4.08 Hip and Ridge Installation 99
4.09 Rake/Gable Tile 99
4.10 Wall Abutments 100
4.11 Plumbing Stacks 100
4.12 Coatings 100
4.13 Tile Replacement 100
4.14 Clean-Up 100
4.15 Miscellaneous recommendations 100
APPENDIX 101
GLOSSARY OF TERMS 128
INSTRUCTIONS FOR HIP AND RIDGE ATTACHMENT See Special
Back Section
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
System #1 1
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
FRSA & TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES
System One
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines
Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed
metal flashings with edge returns. Tiles are applied over the
underlayment with mechanical fasteners to the deck with or
without horizontal battens.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):
These mechanically fastened tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint Task Force
of the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association (FRSA) and the
Florida Chapter of the Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these
recommendations are neither warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by
which a mechanically fastened tile system can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the
designer, applicator or developer good roofing practice and some of the industry standards for the
installation of the mechanically-set tiles which have been developed over a period of time from actual
trade practice and the requirements of various building code agencies. These guidelines may not be
applicable in all geographical areas. It is the responsibility of those individuals who are referring to
these guidelines to independently research and determine which is best for their particular project.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
System One
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:
Slope
of
Roof
4″:12″ and
greater
4″:12″ and
greater
4″:12″ and
greater
4″:12″ and
greater
4″:12″ and
greater
4″:12″ and
greater
As Tested
Battens
or Direct
Deck
See 3.02A
Battens
or Deck
Battens
or Deck
Battens
Battens
or Deck
Battens
or Deck
Battens
or Deck
Choice of Underlayments
1. Single-ply No. 43 or 90# Organic Cap
Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet
2. Hot Mop Application – No. 30 or No. 43
/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet
3. Cold Process Application – No. 30 or No.
43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet
4. Two Ply No.30 or No. 43,
Underlayment
5. Self-Adhered Underlayment -Applied
Direct to Wood Deck
6. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
7. Alternative Membranes
Plastic or Compatible
Cement at Fasteners
Penetrating
Underlayments
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Reference
3.02A
3.02B
3.02C
3.02D
3.02E
3.02F
3.02G
NOTE: Some products are not designed to be installed on this system. It is very important you
check with the roof tile manufacturer for the approved profiles. Battens are optional
from 4:12 up to and including 7:12 slope.
DIVISION 7
These guidelines cover Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Roof Tile, using a minimum 3” tile headlap,
or a designed limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance with wind load
requirements.
07300 -Shingles and Roofing Tiles
07320 -Roofing Tiles
-Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines
PART I – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere
A. Rough Carpentry – Section 06100
B. Roof and Deck Insulation – Section 07220.
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation – Section 07600.
D. Roof Accessories – Section 07700.
1.02 Quality Assurance
A. Products
1. Concrete Roof Tile – In compliance with ASTM C 1492.
2. Clay Roof Tile – In compliance with ASTM Standard C 1167.
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:
1. ICC-SSTD-11
or,
2. TAS 101
1.03 Submittals
A. Samples – tile type and color as selected.
B. Manufacturer’s literature – including product descriptions and recommended installation
procedures.
C. Tile Compliance Report.
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.
B. When conditions warrant, install temporary battens to facilitate roof loading.
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.
1.05 Job Conditions
A. Do not install underlayment on wet surfaces.
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and
their responsibility for protection of tile after loading and stacking is completed.
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.
1.06 Warranty
A. Materials – manufacturer’s limited warranty against defects in roof tile for ___ years
(NOTE: Fill in appropriate number of years).
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
PART II – PRODUCTS
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products
section of this manual reflect that process.
2.01 Roof tile
A. Tile Manufacturer:__________________________________________________________________
B. Tile Type:__________________________________________________________________________
C. Approximate Weight:_______________________________________________________________
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments
A. Organic, type II, commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type
II organic saturated.
B. Asphalt – saturated and coated organic felt base sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43#, per
roll, conforming to ASTM D 2626.
C. Mineral surface roll roofing minimum 74 # per roll commonly called 90#, conforming to
ASTM D 6380.
D. Modified bitumen single ply membrane, minimum 40 mils.
E. Self -adhered membrane, minimum 40 mils.
F. Granular surface SBS modified bitumen membrane, minimum 40 mils. at the selvage edge.
2.03 Membranes
A. Organic – Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.
B. Inorganic – Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.
2.04 Fasteners
A. Tile Fasteners
1. Nails – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or
through thickness of the deck or batten.
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches long,
0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per inch).
2. Screw Fasteners – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117). Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length or penetrate
a minimum 3/4” into the deck or batten. ASTM A 641 Class 1 is a nail specification that
can be converted to screw fasteners through performance testing (ASTM B 117). Each
fastener manufacturer is responsible for supplying this support data.
a. Minimum #8 course thread.
3. Tile fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.
B. Underlayment Fasteners
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through
thickness of deck.
a. Minimum #11 gauge.
2. Tin tags – not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge
steel sheet metal.
a. Minimum #32 gauge sheet metal.
C. Batten Fasteners – Batten fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
2.05 Metal Flashing
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal – conforming to ASTM A
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building
code.
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements
follow Lead Association recommendation.
2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement – conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic – conforming to ASTM D 3019, type III.
C. Asphalt – conforming to ASTM D 312, type III or IV (Note slope requirements in the building
code).
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants
A. Structural bonding adhesive – conforming to ASTM D 3498.
2.08 Mortar
A. Materials
1. Cement shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.
2. Aggregates
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded; clean and free from organic materials.
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.
B. Mixes
1. All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall a FBC
(Florida Building Code) product approval.
2. All mortar used to fasten hips and ridges shall, in addition to having a FBC product
approval, be tested in accordance with ICC-SSTD-11 data substantiating compliance.
3. Job proportioned mixes (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for
“wind block” only.
2.09 Eave Closure
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.
2.10 Coating
A. Paint – color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).
B. Sealer – for point-up mortar (optional).
C. Tint Seal – color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).
2.11 Sheathing – Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.
NOTE: Refer to building code wind load requirements.
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.
B. Battens – material to be decay resistant.
1. Battens should not be bowed or twisted.
2. Horizontal battens should be nominal 1” x 2”.
C. Nailer Boards – Material to be decay resistant
1. Nailer boards should not be bowed or twisted.
2. Nailer boards shall be a nominal 2 inches x (sufficient height to satisfy conditions).
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
PART III – EXECUTION
3.01 Inspection
A. Verify that surfaces to receive underlayments are uniform, smooth, clean and dry.
B. Proper ventilation is recommended on all tile applications. Verify ventilation requirements as
set forth in the building code.
3.02 Underlayment Application – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with compatible flashing cement and membrane
where applicable.
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment
with this system (except on 3.02 E).
A. Single-ply No.43 or 90# Organic Cap Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 1)
A single-ply No.43 underlayment application shall be installed under mandatory use of
battens. A 90# organic cap sheet or modified cap sheet underlayment application can be
installed with tiles applied direct to the cap sheet. Prior to applying the No.43, 90# or
modified cap sheet, attach a 36” wide strip of same underlayment, (sweat sheet) down the
center of the valley. Secure near the edge of the felt 24” on center. Apply a No.43 or 90# or
modified cap sheet perpendicular to the slope of the roof and mechanically attached to the
wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced 36” on center near
the top edge of felt. Use a minimum 4” head lap and 6” side laps. Extend underlayment sheet
up vertical surfaces a minimum 4”. Overlap hip and ridges a minimum of 6”. Secure near the
edge of felt 12” on center at overlaps and side laps of the underlayment.
DRAWING 1
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
B. Hot Mop No.30 or No.43 / 90lb. Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. A No.30 or No.43 base
sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails
or other fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at
the laps. Extend base sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Base side laps shall be a
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply a
layer of organic cap sheet in an application rate of 25 #/sq. ± 15% mopping of asphalt. With
this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base sheet, allowing felt to touch felt.
Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12”
on center.
C. Cold Process Application – No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. A No.30 or No.43 base
ply sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap
nails or other fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center
at the laps. Extend base ply sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Base ply side laps
shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet,
apply a cap sheet according to underlayment/adhesive manufacturer recommendations. Cap
sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed
12” on center.
NOTE: For Cold Process-Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap
sheet laps at a maximum of 3’ on center.
DRAWING 2
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
D. Two Ply No. 30 or No.43 Underlayment
This underlayment application is installed under the mandatory use of battens. A 19” wide
starter strip of a No. 30 or No.43 underlayment shall be applied horizontally at the eaves. A
full 36” width sheet shall be applied covering the starter sheet. The starter sheet and each
succeeding full width sheet of felt shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails
and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced 24” on center, 1” from the top edge of
felt and 12” on center at the laps. Succeeding sheets shall be lapped 19” (17” exposure) over
the preceding sheets. Extend base sheets a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Side laps shall
be 6”.
E. Self-Adhered Underlayment – Applied Direct to Wood Deck.
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’
recommendations.
F. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. No.30 felt shall be
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other
fasteners spaced 12” on center at the laps. Extend base ply sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical
surfaces. Base sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of
2”. Over base sheet, apply one layer of self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the selfadhered
underlayment manufacturers’ recommendation. Backnail the self-adhered
underlayment a minimum of 12” on center.
G. Alternative Membranes
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function
in combination with a prepared roof covering.
3.03 Drip Edge Metal – Choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 3.12 C.2.c).
A. Single ply underlayment systems
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave, over the sheathing. The metal shall be
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of
compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. All metal laps shall be
sealed.
2. Apply underlayments as per section 3.02 A or E for single ply underlayments.
or,
B. 2-ply underlayment systems
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed over base ply sheet, fastened 6” on center with 12 ga.
corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”.
3.04 Gable treatment – Choose one of the following:
A. Underlayment wrapped gable – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: Not recommended for flush finish. Rake tiles must be installed.
1. Extend underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down onto fascia or barge board.
Secure with nails and tin tags, round cap nails or other fasteners 6” on center.
or,
2. Trim underlayment at fascia or barge board. Install a peel and stick underlayment
extending underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down and seal onto fascia or barge
board.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
B. Metal Finish
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the gable, over the finished underlayment. The metal
shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of
compatible metals. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water
shedding capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with
asphaltic adhesive.
3.05 Valleys – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the valley.
NOTE: Closed valley metal shall be either a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a
minimum 2 1/2” high center diverter and a minimum 1” metal edge returns or a ribbed
design with 1” center diverter, a minimum four (4) 3/8” ribs spaced 3 1/2” with 3 3/4”
flange.
A. Install preformed closed valley metal. Lap all joints a minimum of 6” and apply a coating or
separator sheet. (See Drawing 3)
or,
B. Install preformed open valley with a minimum of 16” (24” stretch-out) with a minimum 1”
high twin center diverter and minimum 1” metal edge returns. Lap joints a minimum 6” and
apply a coating or separator sheet. (See Drawing 4).
For A or B: When using valley metal with returns,
1. Secure with clips fabricated from similar or compatible material. Clip 1” metal edge
returns to either deck or batten strip with roofing nail through metal strap.
2. Trim metal at all valley/ridge junctions, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the
valley.
3. Install lead soaker at all valley/ridge junctions. Turn lead up a minimum of 1” to create a
water diverter, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the valley.
4. Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip edge a minimum of 1”.
Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond drip edge.
DRAWING 3
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 4
DRAWING 5
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
3.06 Valley or Wall Fastenings Termination onto Roof Plane
A. When valley terminates onto roof plane install in accordance with standard valley flashing
procedures:
1. Apply a lead soaker/skirt underneath the eave end of valley or wall flashing to carry water
off the valley or wall flashing back onto the field tile (See Drawing 6).
2. If lead skirt is not used, extend length of valley metal to carry water off the valley back
onto the field tile.
DRAWING 6
3.07 Flashing and Counterflashings at Wall Abutments (See Drawing 7)
A. Install preformed metal wall tray 5” vertical flange, 6” base flange with 1” metal edge return
flush to base of walls over underlayment. Start at lower portion and work up to ensure
watertight application.
B. Secure with clips fabricated from compatible material 24” on center. Clip 1” metal edge
return to deck or batten strip with roofing nail through a metal strap.
C. Nail vertical metal flange near outside edge. Secure as necessary to meet job conditions. Lap
joints a minimum of 4” and apply flashing cement.
D. On block walls, seal along entire edge of vertical metal flange, covering all nail penetrations
with flashing cement and membrane.
E. On frame walls, install vapor barrier over flashing.
F. When installing optional counterflashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of 2 1/2”.
Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set metal into reglets and seal
thoroughly. Lap joints a minimum of 3”.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 7
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the pan
flashing. In all cases, flashing shall be designed to adequately direct water back onto the
tiles.
3.08 Head & Apron Flashing (See Drawings 8, 9 & 10)
A. Install apron flashing a minimum 4” on tile surface. Nail vertical flange of flashing within 1”
of metal edge and secure as necessary.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 8
DRAWING 9
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 10
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See Drawing 11)
A. Curbs shall be a minimum nominal 2” x 6”, and a minimum nominal 1 1/2” above tile height.
B. Install a minimum 12” width lead at eave end of each curb.
C. Secure with fasteners 6” on center, insuring fasteners will be covered by skylight/hood vent
flange.
D. Continue with flexible or rigid flashing on both sides of the curb working up toward ridge.
Trim as necessary to ensure water shedding onto field tile.
E. Secure with roofing fasteners 6” on center.
F. Install flexible or rigid flashing of sufficent width at ridge end of curb.
G. Seal all fasteners penetrations, at skylight or hood vent joints.
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, installation shall meet Section 3.09 above
and skylight manufacturer’s installation instructions.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 11
3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. (See Drawings 12, 13 & 14)
A. Seal around penetration
B. Apply skirt flashing over last field tile cut previously installed extending under the course of
tile above the penetration. Insure flashing is of sufficient width to redirect the water away from
penetration.
C. Seal flashing to tile as needed.
NOTE: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation
instructions.
DRAWING 12
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 13
DRAWING 14
3.11 Batten Installation (See Drawing 15)
Horizontal battens shall be a maximum of 4’ in length or batten material may be longer in length
provided there are 1/2” weepholes every 4’.
A. Install top edge of horizontal batten to horizontal line. Horizontal battens may be a minimum
nominal 1”x 2”.
B. Fasten and secure maximum 24” on center with fasteners of sufficient length to penetrate the
sheathing a minimum of 3/4”.
C. Leave 1/2” space between batten ends and between batten and metal edge returns.
D. Fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 15
3.12 Tile Installation
A. Layout – Horizontal
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter, or other functional
requirements.
2. For batten installation only, chalk line approximately 1 1/2” from ridge.
3. Chalk succeeding lines for a minimum 3” headlap unless restricted by product design.
4. Increase headlap when necessary for equal course spacing, or as needed for unusual
application conditions.
B. Layout – Vertical – Choose one of the following:
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation (Required for flat tile)
a. Gable end roof
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting
gable to accommodate rake tile.
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
or,
2. Straight bond tile installation
a. Gable end roof
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable.
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
C. Tile Installation
1. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.
2. Eave treatment – Choose one of the following:
a. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure – Install closure strip along eave. Fasten with a
minimum 3 fasteners per 36” strip (See Drawing 16) or,
b. Metal Eave Closure – Install closure strip along eave. Fasten a minimum 18” on
center. If metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center (See Drawing
17) or,
c. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip – (when using a 3/4” thick fascia, a nominal 2” x 2”
wood starter strip must be installed behind fascia).
i. Install fascia board approximately 1 1/2” above roof deck or a nominal 2” x 2”
wood starter strip at roof edge (See Drawing 18). Choose one of the following:
ii. Install 8” tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and/or starter strip to support
metal flashing when using drip edge. Tapered cant strip is optional when using
anti-ponding metal or,
iii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Nail top edge of flange onto roof.
iv. Apply underlayment as per Section 3.02.
d. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure- applied per manufacturer’s specifications.
NOTE: Eave closure shall terminate at outer edge of valley and wall flashings.
DRAWING 16
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DRAWING 17
DRAWING 18
3.13 Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile
A. Install first course of tile, making certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first
course.
B. Cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile courses when using the staggered/cross bond
method of installation.
C. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal and/or vertical fashion when utilizing
straight bond method.
D. Lay succeeding courses of field tile in same manner.
E. Secure tile with fasteners (see fastening chart).
F. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the
design pressures for the building and the fixing calculations set forth in the building
code.
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3.14 Valleys – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip edge a minimum of 1”.
Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond drip edge.
NOTE: It is not recommended to install trim tile in valleys. It may be necessary to remove the
lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders at wall and valley flashings for
proper positioning of cut field tiles and to facilitate water flow.
A. Preformed Metal With 1” Returns
1. Closed Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter (See
Drawing 19).
2. Open Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of two water diverters (See
Drawing 20).
DRAWING 19
DRAWING 20
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3.15 Hip Starter – Choose one of the following: (Refer to Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)
3.16 Hip and Ridge Installation – (Refer to Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)
3.17 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards – (Refer to Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)
3.18 Rake/Gable Tile – Choose one of the following:
A. Rake/Gable Tile
1. Install first rake tile to exposed length of first course of field tile with factory finish of rake
tile towards the eave.
2. Fasten rake tile with a minimum two 10D nails and/or of screws sufficient length to
penetrate the framing a minimum of 3/4”.
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant
headlap.
B. Metal Finish
1. Install prefabricated gable metal with 1” water return.
2. Fasten by clipping 24” on center.
NOTE: Rake tile application at finishing end may need special consideration to provide proper
drainage, i.e. flashing or sealant may be needed.
3.19 Wall Abutments
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders
at wall and valley flashings for proper positioning of cut field tiles and to facilitate water
flow.
3.20 Coatings – (optional)
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashings.
3.21 Tile Replacement
A. Damaged Tile
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair
underlayment if necessary.
2. Apply adhesive per adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.
4. Removal of tile lugs is not recommended on batten systems.
B. Small Valley and Hip Cuts
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive
manufacturer’s recommendations.
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position which assures proper contact.
NOTE: For hip cuts on roof slopes >7:12, mechanical fasteners may be required.
3.22 Clean-Up
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.
3.23 Miscellaneous recommendations
A. Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind on
finished roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.
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FRSA & TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES
System Two
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines
Sealed underlayment system using metal flashings without
edge returns. Tiles are applied with mechanical fasteners
direct to water-proofed deck.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):
These mechanically fastened tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint Task
Force of the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association (FRSA) and
the Florida Chapter of the Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these
recommendations are neither warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by
which a mechanically fastened tile system can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the
designer, applicator or developer good roofing practice and some of the industry standards for the
installation of the mechanically-set tiles which have been developed over a period of time from actual
trade practice and the requirements of various building code agencies. These guidelines may not be
applicable in all geographical areas. It is the responsibility of those individuals who are referring
to these guidelines to independently research and determine which is best for their particular
project.
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System Two
Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:
Slope
of
Roof
4″:12″ and
greater
3″:12″ and
greater
3″:12″ and
greater
3″:12″ and
greater
3″:12″ and
greater
As tested
Direct
Deck
Only
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Choice of Underlayments
1. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or
Modified Cap Sheet
2. Hot Mop Application – No.30 or No.43 /
90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet
3. Cold Process Application – No.30 or
No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Sheet
4. Self Adhered Underlayment – Applied
Direct to Wood Deck
5. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
6. Alternative Membranes
Plastic or Compatible
Cement at Fasteners
Penetrating
Underlayments
Required
Required
Required
See note below
See note below
See note below
Reference
3.02 A
3.02 B
3.02 C
3.02 D
3.02 E
3.02 F
Note: Refer to underlayment manufacturer’s recommendations.
DIVISION 7
These guidelines cover Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Roof Tile, using a minimum 3” tile headlap,
or a designed limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance with wind load
requirements.
07300 – Shingles and Roofing Tiles
07320 – Roofing Tiles
- Mechanically Fastened Tile Guidelines
PART I – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere
A. Rough Carpentry – Section 06100
B. Roof and Deck Insulation – Section 07220
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation – Section 07600
D. Roof Accessories – Section 07700
1.02 Quality Assurance
A. Products
1. Concrete Roof Tile – In compliance with the physical test requirements of the building
code.
2. Clay Roof Tile – In compliance with ASTM Standard C 1167.
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:
1. ICC-SSTD-11
Or,
2. TAS 101
1.03 Submittals
A. Samples – tile type and color as selected.
B. Manufacturer’s literature – including product descriptions and recommended installation
procedures.
C. Tile Compliance Report.
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.
B. When conditions warrant, install temporary battens to facilitate roof loading.
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.
1.05 Job Conditions
A. Do not install underlayment or tiles on wet surfaces.
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and
their responsibility for protection of tile after loading and stacking is completed.
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.
1.06 Warranty
A. Materials – manufacturer’s limited warranty against defects in roof tile for ___ years.
(NOTE: Fill in appropriate number of years)
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PART II – PRODUCTS
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products
section of this manual reflect that process.
2.01 Roof tile
A. Tile Manufacturer:_____________________________________________________________
B. Tile:_________________________________________________________________________
C. Approximate Weight:___________________________________________________________
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments
A. Organic, type II, commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type
II organic saturated.
B. Asphalt – Saturated and Coated Organic Felt Base Sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43#, per
roll, conforming to ASTM D 2626.
C. Mineral surface roll roofing felt minimum 74 lbs. per roll commonly called 90#, conforming
to ASTM D 249.
D. Modified bitumen single ply membrane minimum 40 mils.
E. Self-adhered membrane minimum 40 mils.
F. Granular surface SBS modified bitumen membrane, minimum 40 mils. at the selvage edge.
2.03 Membranes
A. Organic – Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.
B. Inorganic – Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.
2.04 Fasteners
A. Tile Fasteners
1. Nails – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or
through thickness of the deck.
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches
long, 0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per
inch).
2. Screw Fasteners – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117). Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length or penetrate
a minimum 3/4” into the deck.
a. Minimum #8 course thread.
3. Tile fasteners shall be compatible with batten material.
B. Underlayment Fasteners
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through
thickness of deck.
a. Minimum #11 gauge.
2. Tin tags – not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge
steel sheet metal.
a. Minimum #32 gauge sheet metal.
2.05 Metal Flashing
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal – conforming to ASTM A
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building
code.
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements
follow the Lead Association recommendations.
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2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement – conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic – conforming to ASTM D 3019, type III.
C. Asphalt – conforming to ASTM D 312, type III or IV (Note slope requirements in the building
code).
2.07 Adhesive/Sealants
A. Structural bonding adhesive – conforming to ASTM D 3498.
2.08 Mortar
A. Materials
1. Cement shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.
2. Aggregates
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded; clean and free from organic
materials.
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.
B. Mixes
1. All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall have a
FBC (Florida Building Code) product approval.
2. All mortar used to fasten hips and ridges shall, in addition to having a FBC product
approval, be tested in accordance with ICC-SSTD-11 with data substantiating compliance.
3. Job proportioned mixes (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for
“wind block” only.
2.09 Eave Closure
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.
D. Mortar (color optional) on granular surface underlayments only.
2.10 Coating
A. Paint – color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).
B. Sealer – for point-up mortar (optional).
C. Tint Seal – color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).
2.11 Sheathing – Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.
NOTE: Refer to building code Wind Load requirements.
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.
B. Sheathing – Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.
C. Nailer Boards – Material to be decay resistant or pressure treated in compliance with AWPI C2
or better.
1. Nailer boards should not be bowed or twisted.
2. Nailer boards shall be a nominal 2 inches x (sufficient height to satisfy conditions).
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PART III – EXECUTION
3.01 Inspection
A. Verify that surfaces to receive underlayments and roof tile are uniform, smooth, clean and dry.
B. Proper ventilation is recommended on all tile applications. Verify ventilation requirements as
set forth in the building code.
3.02 Underlayment Application – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with flashing cement and membrane where
applicable.
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment
with this system (except on 3.02 D).
A. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 1)
A 90# organic cap sheet or modified cap sheet underlayment application can be installed with
tiles applied direct to the cap sheet. Prior to applying the 90# or modified cap sheet, attach a
36” wide strip of same underlayment, (sweat sheet) down the center of the valley. Secure near
the edge of the felt 24” on center. Apply a 90# or modified cap sheet perpendicular to the slope
of the roof and mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails
or other fasteners spaced 12” on center near the top edge of felt. Use a minimum 4” head lap
and 6” side laps. Overlap hip and ridges a minimum of 6”. Seal all laps with compatible plastic
cement.
DRAWING 1
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B. Hot Mop Application – No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 base sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered
in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at the laps. Extend base sheet a minimum of 4” up
vertical surfaces. Base sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a
minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply the cap sheet in an application rate 25 #/sq.
± 15% mopping of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base
sheet, allowing felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a
minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.
C. Cold Process Application – No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing 2)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. The roof cover is
terminated at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 base ply sheet shall be mechanically attached
to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced in a 12”
grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at the laps. Extend base ply sheet a
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Base ply side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head
laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply a cap sheet according to
underlayment/adhesive manufacturer recommendations. Cap sheet side laps shall be a
minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.
NOTE: For Cold Process-Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap
sheet laps at a maximum of 3’ on center.
DRAWING 2
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D. Self-Adhered Underlayment – Applied Direct to Wood Deck.
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self–adhered underlayment manufacturers’
recommendations.
E. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. A No.30 felt shall be
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other
fasteners spaced in a 12” grid staggered in two rows in the field, and 6” on center at the laps.
Extend base ply a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base ply, apply one
layer of self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment
manufacturers’ recommendation.
F. Alternative Membranes
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function
in combination with a prepared roof covering.
3.03 Drip Edge Metal – Choose one of the following:
(For anti-ponding metal, see Section 3.08 C.2.c)
A. Single ply underlayment systems
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave, over the sheathing. The metal shall be
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of
compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal shall be coated
with a bed of flashing cement.
2. Apply underlayments as per section 3.02 A for single ply underlayments.
3. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring watershedding capabilities of
all metal laps. On gable, the metal and underlayments sheet shall be joined with a bed of
flashing cement, and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric
shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
or,
B. 2-ply underlayment systems
1. Edge metal shall be installed over the anchor sheet at all perimeters fastened 6” on center
with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails or other fasteners. All joints shall be lapped a
minimum of 2”. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring
watershedding capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal
with asphaltic adhesive.
or,
2. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave over the finished cap sheet. The metal shall
be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other fasteners.
All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal and cap sheet shall be joined with
a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The
fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
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3.04 Valleys – Choose one of the following: (See drawings 3, 4 & 5)
A. Two Ply System – Choose one of the following:
1. Standard Roll Metal – minimum 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the
valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails,
or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All
joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall
be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawing 6).
or,
2. Preformed metal without returns – minimum 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor
sheet in the valley and shall fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap
sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawings 7).
DRAWING 3
DRAWING 4
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DRAWING 5
B. Over Cap Sheet – Choose one of the following:
1. Standard Roll Metal – minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the cap sheet in the valley
and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other
fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall
be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be joined
with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric.
The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
or,
2. Preformed Metal Without Returns -minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the anchor
sheet in the valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap
sheet shall be joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated
cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
DRAWING 6
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DRAWING 7
DRAWING 8
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DRAWING 9
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments
A. Single Ply System (See Drawing 8 and 9)
1. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on single ply
underlayment and nail near the metals edge. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement
between laps. Start at lower portion and work up to ensure water tightness. Nail 6” on
center near the edge of the metal.
2. On block walls, seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with
flashing cement and membrane where required.
3. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of
21/2”. Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set metal into
reglets and seal thoroughly. Lap joints a minimum of 4” and apply flashing cement or
sealant between the laps.
4. On frame walls, install vapor barrier over flashing.
5. All head/apron flashing shall be installed on top of cap sheet (See Drawing 9). Ensure the
deck flange conforms to the pitch of the roof and extend minimum 4” onto deck. Seal
along edge with flashing cement and membrane.
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B. Two Ply System – (Choose 1 or 2) (See Drawings 6 and 7 or 10 and 11).
1. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on the anchor sheet and
nail near the metals edge. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps. Start at
lower portion and work up to ensure water tightness. Fastened 6” on center near the edge
of the metal. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive.
or,
DRAWING 10
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DRAWING 11
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2. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing on the cap sheet and fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion
resistant roof nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 4” and apply plastic cement between laps.
Cap sheet shall be joined to the “L” flashing with flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt
saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing
cement.
3. Seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with flashing cement
and membrane where required.
4. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing minimum 3”.
Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set into reglets (secured
properly) and thoroughly caulk. Lap joints minimum 3” and apply flashing cement
between laps.
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See 3.05)
A. Install in compliance with regular flashing installation procedures.
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, refer to skylight manufacturer’s installation
instructions.
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. (See Drawings 12 & 13)
A. Apply flashing cement around base of protrusion and on the bottom side of metal flanges
sealing unit base flashing to deck.
B. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing near the edge. Make certain base is flush to deck.
NOTE 1: If pipes, vents and/or turbines are installed after finished cap sheet has been applied
follow instructions in 3.07 A & B. Cap sheet and metal flange shall be joined with a
bed of flashing cement and a strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The
fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
NOTE 2: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation
instructions.
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DRAWING 12
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DRAWING 13
3.08 Tile Installation
A. Layout – Horizontal
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter or other functional
requirements.
2. Chalk succeeding lines for a minimum 3” headlap unless restricted by product design.
3. Increase headlap when necessary for equal course spacing, or as needed for unusual
application conditions.
B. Layout – Vertical – Choose one of the following:
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation -
a. Gable end – Choose one of the following:
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting
gable to accommodate rake tile.
or,
ii. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1/4” from starting
gable to accommodate flush finish.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
or,
2. Straight bond tile installation – (Not recommended for flat/low profile tile)
a. Gable end
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable.
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
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b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
C. Tile Installation
1. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.
2. Eave treatment – Choose one of the following:
a. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure – Install closure strip along eave. Fasten with
minimum three fasteners per 36” strip (See Drawing 14).
or,
b. Metal Eave Closure – Install closure strip along eave. Fasten minimum 18” on
center. If metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center (See
Drawing 15).
or,
c. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip – (when using a 3/4” fascia, a nominal 1” x 2”
wood starter strip must be installed behind fascia).
i. Install fascia board approximately 3/4” above roof deck or a nominal 1” x 2”
wood starter strip at roof edge (See Drawing 16).
Choose one of the following:
ii. Install 8” tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and/or starter strip to support
metal flashing when using drip edge.
or,
iii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Tapered cant strip is optional when using antiponding
metal. Nail top edge of flange onto roof.
NOTE: Limited to slopes 3:12 and over.
iv. Apply underlayment as per Section 3.02.
or
d. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure (apply per manufacturer’s instructions)
DRAWING 14
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DRAWING 15
DRAWING 16
e. Mortar Application – Install mortar to elevate eave edge.
i. Apply mortar along the eave edge, applying enough mortar to elevate the eave end
of the tile to be on plane with the remaining roof tile.
ii. Point and smooth finish flush to eave line.
iii. A minimum 3/8” weephole flush with the roof underlayment shall be formed at
the spacing of not less than one weephole per tile.
3.09 Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile
A. Starting at lower left corner (facing down roof) install first course of tile. Make certain all tile
overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first course.
B. Secure tile with fasteners through a minimum 1/8” thick compatible sealant applied to
underlayment.
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C. Cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile courses when using staggered/cross bond method
of installation.
D. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal and/or vertical fashion when utilizing
straight bond method.
E. Lay succeeding courses of field tile in same manner.
F. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the
design pressures for the building and the fixing calculations set forth in the local
building code.
3.10 Valleys – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: It is not recommended to install trim tile in the valleys. It may be necessary to remove
the lugs from the field tile at walls and valley flashing for proper positioning of cut field
tiles.
A. Standard Roll Valley (See Drawing 17)
1. Closed Valley – Miter tile to meet at center of valley.
2. Open Valley – Chalk a line minimum 2” on both sides valley center. Place bed of mortar
along outside edge of chalk lines. Miter tile to form straight border and point mortar to
finish.
or,
B. Preformed Metal Without Returns
1. Closed Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter. (See
Drawing 18)
2. Open Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of the two water diverters.
(See Drawing 19)
DRAWING 17
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DRAWING 18
DRAWING 19
3.11 Hip Starter – Choose one of the following:
A. Prefabricated hip starter
1. Miter tile as hip starter to match eave lines.
or,
B. Use standard hip tiles as starter.
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation – (See Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards – (See Instructions for Hip and Ridge Attachment)
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3.14 Rake/Gable – Choose one of the following:
A. Rake/Gable Tile
1. Install first rake tile the exposed length of first course of field tile with factory finish of
rake tile towards the eave.
2. Fasten rake tile with a minimum two 10D nails and/or of sufficient length to penetrate the
framing a minimum of 3/4”.
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant
head lap.
or,
B. Mortar Finish
1. Place mortar bed along roof edge.
2. Point smooth to a straight edge finish.
3.15 Wall Abutments
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls. Point-up mortar is optional.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders at
wall flashing for proper positioning of cut field tiles. For tiles installed at headwalls, tile
shall be installed with roof tile adhesive.
3.16 Plumbing Stacks
A. Cut tile to fit close to plumbing stack, fill void with mortar and point to finish.
3.17 Coatings – (optional)
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashings.
3.18 Tile Replacement
A. Damaged Tile
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair
underlayment if necessary.
2. Apply adhesive per adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.
B. Small Valley and Hip Cut
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive
manufacturer’s recommendations.
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position which assures proper contact.
NOTE: For roof slopes > 7”:12” on hip cuts only, mechanical fastening may be required.
3.19 Clean-Up
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations
A. Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind on
finished roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.
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FRSA & TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES
System Three
Mortar Set Tile Applications Only
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings.
Tiles are applied with mortar direct to waterproofed deck.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):
These mortar set fastened tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint Task Force
of the Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association (FRSA) and the
Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these recommendations are neither
warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by which a mortar set tile system
can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the designer, applicator or developer good roofing
practice and some of the industry standards for the installation of mortar set tiles which have been
developed over a period of time from actual trade practice and the requirements of various building
code agencies. These guidelines may not be applicable in all geographical areas. It is the
responsibility of those individuals who are referring to these guidelines to independently
research and determine which is best for their particular project.
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System Three
Mortar Set Tile Guidelines
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:
Slope
of
Roof
2″:12″ and
greater
2″:12″ and
greater
Direct
Deck
Only
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Choice of Underlayments
1. Hot Mop Application – No.30 or No.43 /
90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet
2. Cold Process Application – No.30 or No.43
/ 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet
Plastic or Compatible
Cement at Fasteners
Penetrating
Underlayments
Required
Required
Reference
3.02A
3.02B
NOTE: Alternate underlayments may be used based on laboratory or field testing.
NOTE: Additional interplies may be used prior to installing cap sheet.
DIVISION 7
These guidelines cover Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Roof Tile, using a minimum 2” tile headlap,
or a design limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance with wind load
requirements.
07300 – Shingles and Roofing Tiles
07320 – Roofing Tiles
- Mortar Set Tile Guidelines
PART I – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere
A. Rough Carpentry – Section 06100.
B. Roof and Deck Insulation – Section 07220.
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation – Section 07600.
D. Roof Accessories – Section 07700.
1.02 Quality Assurance
A. Products.
1. Concrete Roof Tile – In compliance with physical test requirements of the building code.
2. Clay Roof Tile – In compliance with ASTM Standard C 1167.
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:
1. ICC-SSTD-11
Or,
2. TAS 101
1.03 Submittals
A. Samples – tile type and color as selected.
B. Manufacturer’s literature – including product descriptions and recommended installation
procedures.
C. Tile Compliance Report.
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.
B. When conditions warrant, install temporary battens to facilitate roof loading.
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.
1.05 Job Conditions
A. Do not install underlayment on wet surfaces.
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and
their responsibility for protection of tile after loading and stacking is completed.
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.
1.06 Warranty
A. Materials – manufacturer’s limited warranty against defects in roof tile for ___ years.
(NOTE: Fill in appropriate number of years)
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PART II – PRODUCTS
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products
section of this manual reflect that process.
2.01 Roof Tile
A. Tile Manufacturer:__________________________________________________________________
B. Tile Type:__________________________________________________________________________
C. Approximate Weight:________________________________________________________________
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments
A. Organic, type II, commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type
II organic saturated.
B. Asphalt Saturated and Coated Organic Felt Base Sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43#, per
roll, conforming to ASTM D 2626.
C. Mineral surface roll roofing felt minimum 74 lbs. per roll commonly called 90# conforming
to ASTM D 6380.
2.03 Membranes
A. Organic – Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.
B. Inorganic – Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.
2.04 Fasteners
A. Tile Fasteners
1. Nails – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or
through thickness of the deck.
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches
long, 0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per inch)
b. Smooth or screw shank nails be 10d corrosion resistant steel (3 inches long, 0.28
inch flat head diameter, 0.128 inch screw or 0.131 inch smooth shank diameter).
2. Screw Fasteners – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117. Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length or penetrate
a minimum 3/4” into the deck.
a. Minimum #8 course thread.
B. Underlayment Fasteners
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through
thickness of deck.
a. Minimum #1 gauge.
2. Tin tags – not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge
steel sheet metal.
3. Cap Nails – 1” round 11 gauge of sufficient length to penetrate 3/4” into or through
thickness of deck.
2.05 Metal Flashing
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal – conforming to ASTM A
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building
code.
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements
follow the Lead Association recommendations.
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2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement – conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic – conforming to ASTM D 3019, type III.
C. Asphalt – conforming to ASTM D 312, type III or IV (Refer to slope requirements in the
building code).
2.07 Adhesives / Sealants
A. Structural bonding adhesive conforming to ASTM D 3498.
2.08 Mortar
A. Materials
1. Cement shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.
2. Aggregates
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded; clean and free from organic
materials.
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.
B. Mixes
1. All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall have a
FBC (Florida Building Code) product approval.
2. Job proportioned mixed (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for
“wind block” only.
2.09 Eave Closure
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.
D. Mortar (color optional) on granular surface underlayments only.
2.10 Coatings
A. Paint – color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).
B. Sealer – for point-up mortar (optional).
C. Tint Seal – color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).
2.11 Sheathing – Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.
NOTE: Refer to building code Wind Load requirements.
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.
PART III – EXECUTION
3.01 Inspection
A. Verify that surfaces to receive underlayments are uniform, smooth, clean and dry.
B. Proper ventilation is recommended on all tile applications. Verify ventilation requirements as
set forth in the building code.
3.02 Underlayment Application – Choose one of the following:
NOTE 1: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with flashing cement and membrane where
applicable.
NOTE 2: Anchor sheet fastening shall be in accordance with Tables 1 to 5C
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NOTE 3: Anchor sheet shall be in a minimum 2-plys in the valley.
A. Hot Mop Application – No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic Cap Sheet (See Drawing 1)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fastener spaced according to tables 1 to
5C near the top edge of felt. Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces.
Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over
installed anchor sheet, apply a layer of organic cap sheet in an application rate of 25 #/sq. ±
15% mopping of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base
sheet, allowing felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a
minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.
DRAWING 1
B. Cold Process Application – No.30 or No.43/90# Organic (See Drawing 1)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. The roof cover is
terminated at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 base ply sheet shall be mechanically attached
to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced according
to anchor sheet fastening tables 1 to 5C near the top edge of felt. Extend anchor sheet a
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchors sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and
head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed base sheet, apply a cap sheet according to
underlayment/adhesive manufacturer recommendations. Cap sheet side laps shall be a
minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.
NOTE: For Cold Process Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap
sheet laps at a of maximum 3’ on center.
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3.03 Drip Edge Metal – choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 3.08 C.2.c)
A. Edge metal shall be installed over the anchor sheet at all perimeters fastened 6” on center with
12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails or other fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be
lapped a minimum of 2”. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water
shedding capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with
asphaltic adhesive.
or,
B. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave over the finished cap sheet. The metal shall be
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other fasteners. All joints
shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal and underlayment sheet shall be joined with a
bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The
fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
3.04 Valleys – Choose one of the following: (See Drawings 2, 3 & 4)
NOTE: (See drawings 22, 23, 24) Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of
drip edge a minimum of 1”. Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2”
beyond drip edge.
NOTE: Preformed valley metal shall be either a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a
minimum 2 1/2” high center diverter or a ribbed design with 1” center diverter, a
minimum four (4) 3/8” ribs spaced 3 1/2” with a 3 3/4” flange.
A. Standard roll metal, 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the valley and shall be
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails, or other fasteners of
compatible metals placed near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall be lapped
a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with
asphaltic adhesive.
or,
DRAWING 2
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DRAWING 3
DRAWING 4
B. Preformed metal without returns, 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the valley
and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails, or other fasteners
of compatible metals placed near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall be
lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the
metal with asphaltic adhesive.
or,
C. Preformed metal without returns 16” wide, shall be installed on top of cap sheet and placed in
the valley and fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails, or other
fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” and apply plastic
cement between laps. The cap sheet shall be joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4”
strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the
flashing cement. An optional sweat sheet may be applied prior to the installation of the valley
metal and cap sheet.
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3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashings at Wall Abutments – (Choose A or B)
A. Install 4” x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on the anchor sheet and nail
near the outside edges of metal. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps. Start
at lower portion and work up to ensure water tightness. Nail 6” on center near the outside edge
of the metal. The mineral surface cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic
adhesive (See Drawings 5 & 6).
or,
B. Install a 4” x 5” “L” flashing on the top ply and fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion
resistant roof nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the metal.
All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 4” and apply plastic cement between laps. The cap
sheet shall be joined to the “L” flashing with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt
saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement
(See Drawings 7, 8, 9, 10).
C. Seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with flashing cement and
membrane where required.
D. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of 3”.
Nail metal near the outside edge of metal a minimum of 6” on center or set into reglets
(secured properly) and thoroughly caulk. Lap joints minimum 3” and apply flashing cement
between laps.
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See 3.05 above)
A. Install in compliance with regular flashing installation procedures.
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, refer to skylight manufacturer’s installation
instructions.
DRAWING 5
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DRAWING 6
DRAWING 7
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DRAWING 8
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DRAWING 9
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DRAWING 10
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. (See Drawings 11, 12, 13, 14)
A. Apply flashing cement around base of protrusion and on the bottom side of metal flanges
sealing unit base flashing to anchor sheet.
B. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing. Make certain base is flush to deck.
NOTE 1: If pipes, vents and/or turbines are installed after finished cap sheet has been applied
follow instructions in 3.07 A & B, then the cap sheet and metal flange shall be joined
with a bed of flashing cement and a strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric.
The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
NOTE 2: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation
instructions.
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DRAWING 11
DRAWING 12
DRAWING 13
DRAWING 14
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3.08 Tile Installation
A. Layout – Horizontal.
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter, or other functional
requirements.
2. Chalk succeeding lines to accommodate a minimum 2” headlap unless restricted by
product design.
3. Increase headlap when necessary for equal course spacing.
B. Layout – Vertical – Choose one of the following:
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation – (Recommended for Flat/Low profile tile)
a. Gable end – Choose one of the following.
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting
gable to accommodate rake tile.
or,
ii. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width from starting gable to
accommodate flush finish.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
NOTE: Flush finish gable treatment can only be used when utilizing a single-ply peel and stick
underlayment or a two-ply asphaltic adhesive underlayment system.
b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
or,
2. Straight bond tile installation – (Not recommended for Flat/Low profile tile))
a. Gable end – Choose one of the following.
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable to
accommodate rake tile.
or,
ii. Chalk vertical line one full tile width from starting gable to accommodate flush
finish.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
C. Tile Installation
1. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.
2. Eave treatment – Choose one of the following. (See Drawing 15, 16 & 17).
a. Metal Eave Closure – install closure strip along eave. Fasten a minimum of 18” on
center. If metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center.
or,
b. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure – install closure strip along eave. Fasten with a
minimum 3 fasteners per 36” strip
or,
c. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip
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NOTE 1: The use of eave closure is required in a raised fascia system when using a medium or
high profile tile.
i. Install fascia board approximately 1 1/2” above roof deck or a nominal 2” x 2”
starter strip at roof edge.
Choose one of the following:
ii. Install tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and /or starter strip to support metal
flashing and ensure positive drainage when using drip edge.
or,
iii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Nail top edge of flange onto roof. Tapered cant
strip is optional when using anti-ponding metal.
iv. Apply underlayment as per Section 3.02.
or,
d. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure – (Applied per manufacturer’s
specifications)
e. Mortar Application – install mortar to elevate eave edge.
i. Apply mortar along the eave edge, applying enough mortar to elevate the eave end
of the tile to be on plane with the remaining roof tiles.
ii. Point and smooth finish flush to eave line.
iii. A minimum 3/8” weephole flush with the roof underlayment at the spacing of not
less than one weephole per tile.
DRAWING 15
DRAWING 16
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DRAWING 17
3.09 Flat/Low, Medium and High
NOTE: All mortar used to fasten field tiles shall be factory premixed and bagged and shall have
a FBC(Florida Building Code) product approval.
NOTE: Mortar set tile shall be applied at an incline up to and including 6”:12”. For pitches
above 6”:12” up to and including 7”:12” fasten every tile in the first course and every
third tile in every fifth course in addition to mortar. For pitches above 7”:12” fasten
every tile in addition to mortar. (For two piece barrel tile see Section 3.09.C.) Apply
flashing cement to seal all fastener penetrations.
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.
Mortar quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with the
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specific mortar manufacturer for amounts and specific resistance values. Values may be
supplied through independent laboratory testing or field testing.
A. Mortar Application: Flat/Low, Medium and High Profile Tile (See Drawings 18, 19, & 20)
B. Install first course of tile, making certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first
course.
1. Set tile in a bed of mortar. Apply 10” minimum length trowel of mortar vertically under
pan. For Flat/Low tile place mortar vertically adjacent to the overlock of the tile being
installed. Do not apply mortar under headlug of tile, or onto the underlock of adjacent tile
which may create a tilted or cocked tile.
2. Use half starter/finisher tile when provided or cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile
courses when using the staggered/cross bond method of installation.
3. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal fashion when utilizing straight bond
method.
4. Lay succeeding course of field tile in same manner.
5. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.
DRAWING 18
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DRAWING 19
DRAWING 20
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C. Mortar application. Two-Piece Barrel Tile (See Drawing 21)
NOTE: For pitches above 6:12 up to and including 7:12, fasten every pan tile in the first course
and every fifth course thereafter in addition to mortar. For pitches above 7:12 fasten
every pan tile in addition to mortar.
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.
Mortar quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with the
specific mortar manufacturer for amounts and specific resistance values. Values may be
supplied through independent laboratory testing or field testing.
1. Apply 10” trowel of mortar vertically over chalk line and under center of each pan with
narrow end facing down roof.
2. Place bed of mortar along inside edges of pans and set covers with wide end facing down
roof.
3. Point mortar to form acceptable straight-edge finish ensuring contact along edges.
4. Lay succeeding courses of field tile in same manner.
5. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge.
DRAWING 21
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3.10 Valleys – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: (See drawings 22 & 23 ) Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip
edge a minimum of 1”. Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond
drip edge.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile at walls and valley flashings
for proper positioning of cut field tiles.
A. Standard Roll Valley (See Drawing 22)
1. Closed Valley – Miter tile to meet at center of valley.
2. Open Valley – Chalk a line minimum 2” on both sides valley center. Place bed of mortar
along outside edge of chalk lines. Miter tile to form straight border and point to match
tile surface.
3. Valley with trim tile – Chalk a line down center of valley. Cut/break field tile near center
line. Set trim tile in a continuous bed of mortar on tile surface, lapping tile a minimum of
1”. Valleys shall remain unobstructed. Point mortar to finish. Ensure weep hole at end of
valley.
or,
B. Preformed Metal Without Returns
1. Closed Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter
(See Drawing 23).
2. Open Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of two water diverters (See
Drawing 24).
3.11 Hip Starter – choose one of the following:
A. Prefabricated hip starter
or,
B. Use standard hip tiles as starter.
1. Miter tile to match eave lines.
3.12 Hip and Ridge Installation – Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.
DRAWING 22
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DRAWING 23
DRAWING 24
3.13 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards – Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.
3.14 Rake/Gable – Choose one of the following:
A. Rake/Gable Tile
1. Install first rake tile to expose length of first course of field tile with factory finish of rake
tile towards the eave.
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2. Fasten rake tile with a minimum two 10D nails and/or of sufficient length to penetrate the
framing a minimum of 3/4”.
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant
headlap.
or,
B. Mortar Finish
3.15 Wall Abutments
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls. Point-up mortar is optional.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile at wall flashing for proper
positioning of cut field tiles. For tiles installed at headwalls, tile shall be installed with
roof tile adhesive.
3.16 Plumbing Stacks
A. Cut tile to fit close to plumbing stack, fill void with mortar and point to finish.
3.17 Coatings – (Optional)
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashings.
C. Tint Seal – color coordinated sealer for staining tile, mortar or accessories.
3.18 Tile Replacement
A. Damaged Tile
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair
underlayment if necessary.
2. Apply roof tile adhesive per adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.
B. Small Valley and Hip Cuts
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive
manufacturer’s recommendations.
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position which assures proper contact.
3.19 Clean-Up
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.
3.20 Miscellaneous Recommendations
Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind on finished
roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.
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FRSA & TRI MODEL TILE GUIDELINES
System Four
Adhesive – Set Tile Guidelines
System “A”
Unsealed or sealed underlayment system using preformed
metal flashings with edge returns. Tiles are applied over the
underlayment with adhesive to the deck with or without
horizontal battens.
Or,
System “B”
Sealed underlayment system using standard metal flashings.
Tiles are applied with adhesive direct to waterproofed deck.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY):
These adhesive-set tile guidelines are a consensus document developed by a joint task force of the
Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Association (FRSA) and the Florida Chapter of
the Tile Roofing Institute (TRI). It is important to recognize that these recommendations are neither
warranties, explicit or implicit, nor representative of the only method by which an adhesive set tile
system can be installed. Rather, they try to summarize for the designer, applicator or developer good
roofing practice and some of the industry standards for the installation of the adhesive set tiles which
have been developed over a period of time from actual trade practice and the requirements of various
building code agencies. These guidelines may not be applicable in all geographical areas. It is the
responsibility of those individuals who are referring to these guidelines to independently
research and determine which is best for their particular project.
Adhesive – Set Tile Guidelines
DIVISION 7
These recommendations cover Flat/Low, Medium, High and Two Piece Barrel Profile Roof Tile, using a
2” and 3” tile headlap or a design limited headlap, on minimum 15/32” solid decking nailed in compliance
with wind load requirements.
07300 – Shingles and Roofing Tiles
07320 – Roofing Tiles
- Mechanically Fastened Tile Recommendations
- Adhesive – Set Tile Recommendations
PART I – GENERAL
1.01 Related Work Specified Elsewhere
A. Rough Carpentry – Section 06100
B. Roof and Deck Insulation – Section 07220.
C. Flashing and Deck Insulation – Section 07600.
D. Roof Accessories – Section 07700.
1.02 Quality Assurance
A. Products
1. Concrete Roof Tile – In compliance with ASTM C 1492.
2. Clay Roof Tile – In compliance with ASTM C 1167.
B. Tile Attachment – Shall be in compliance with:
1. ICC-SSTD-11
Or,
2. TAS 101
1.03 Submittals
A. Samples – tile type and color as selected.
B. Manufacturer’s literature – including product descriptions and recommended installation
procedures.
C. Tile Compliance Report.
1.04 Product Delivery, Storage and Handling
A. Distribute stacks of tile uniformly, not in concentrated loads.
B. When stacking tile on roof top prior to installation, install battens under nose of tile stacks
when required.
C. Care shall be taken to protect the underlayment during the tile loading and stacking process.
1.05 Job Conditions
A. Do not install underlayment or tiles on wet surfaces.
B. Ensure other trades are aware of precautions required when loading and stacking of tile, and
their responsibility for protection of tile during and upon loading and stacking completion.
C. Any punctures or tears in the underlayment which occur during the loading and stacking of
tile shall be immediately repaired with like materials.
1.06 Warranty
A. Materials – refer to specific manufacturer’s limited warranty.
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PART II – PRODUCTS
2.00 DISCLAIMER NOTICE: The FRSA and TRI rely on component industry data to establish
minimum physical properties standards for their products. The standards listed in the Products
section of this manual reflect that process.
2.01 Roof tile
A. Tile Manufacturer:_________________________________________________________________
B. Tile Type:_________________________________________________________________________
C. Approximate Weight:_______________________________________________________________
2.02 Asphalt Saturated Roofing Underlayments
A. Organic, type II, Commonly called No. 30 or 30#, conforming to ASTM Standard D 226, type
II organic saturated.
B. Asphalt -Saturated and Coated Base Sheet, commonly called No. 43 or 43 #, per roll,
conforming to ASTM D 2626.
C. Mineral surface roll roofing – Type 1,minimum 74 # per 100 sq. ft., commonly called 90 #,
conforming to ASTM D 6380.
D. Modified bitumen single ply membrane, minimum 40 mils.
E. Self -adhered membrane, minimum 40 mils.
F. Granular surface SBS modified bitumen membrane, minimum 40 mils at the selvage edge.
2.03 Membranes
A. Organic – Asphalt impregnated cotton membrane, minimum 4” wide.
B. Inorganic – Asphalt impregnated fiberglass membrane, minimum 4” wide.
2.04 Fasteners
A. Tile Fasteners
1. Nails – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion resistance equal
(according to ASTM B 117) of sufficient length to penetrate a minimum 3/4” into or
through thickness of the deck or batten, whichever is less.
a. Ring shank nails shall be 10d ring shank corrosion resistant steel nails (3 inches long,
0.283 inch flat head diameter, 0.121 inch shank diameter, 18-22 rings per inch).
b. Smooth or screw shank nails be 10d corrosion resistant steel (3 inches long, 0.28 inch
flat head diameter, 0.128 inch screw or 0.131 inch smooth shank diameter).
2. Screw Fasteners – corrosion resistant meeting ASTM A 641 Class 1 and/or corrosion
resistance equal (according to ASTM B 117). Screws shall be 2 1/2” in length penetrate
a minimum 3/4” into the deck or batten, whichever is less.
B. Underlayment Fasteners
1. Nails or cap nails shall be of sufficient length to properly penetrate 3/4” into or through
thickness of deck.
a. Minimum #1 gauge.
2. Tin tags – not less than 1-5/8” nor greater than 2” in diameter and a minimum 32 gauge
steel sheet metal.
2.05 Metal Flashing
A. Flashing shall be minimum 26 ga., G-90 corrosion resistant metal – conforming to ASTM A
525 and ASTM A 90, or other metal or composition profile materials as listed in the building
code.
B. Lead for soil stacks shall be minimum 2.5 # per sq. ft. Lead weight flashing requirements
follow Lead Association recommendation.
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2.06 Asphaltic Adhesive
A. Asphalt plastic roof cement – conforming to ASTM D 4586, type II, non-asbestos, nonrunning,
heavy body material composed of asphalt and other mineral ingredients.
B. Cold process modified bitumen roofing mastic – conforming to ASTM D 3019, type II.
C. Asphalt – conforming to ASTM D 312, type III and IV (Note slope requirements in the
building code).
2.07 Roof Tile Adhesive – Conforming to section 2.09 below.
A. One Component
B. Two Component
2.08 Mortar (When Used For Trim Tiles Or As Eave Closure Only)
A. Materials
1. Cements shall conform to ASTM C 91 Type M.
2. Aggregates
a. Sand shall meet ASTM C 144, uniformly graded, clean and free from organic
materials.
b. Lightweight aggregate shall meet ASTM C 332.
B. Mixes
1. All mortar used to fasten hips and ridges shall, in addition to having a FBC product
approval, be tested in accordance with ICC-SSTD-11 with data substantiating compliance.
2. Job proportioned mixes (job site mortars) may be used for cosmetic purposes and for
“wind block” only.
2.09 Polyurethane adhesives
A. Polyurethane adhesive conforming to the following specifications.
1. Density conforming to ASTM D 1622.
2. Compressive strength conforming to ASTM D 1621.
3. Tensile strength conforming to ASTM D 1623.
4. Water absorption conforming to ASTM D 2842.
5. Moisture vapor transmission conforming to ASTM E 96.
6. Dimensional stability conforming to ASTM D 2126.
7. Closed cell content conforming to ASTM D 2856.
8. Surface burning characteristics conforming to ASTM E 84.
9. Fire tests of roof coverings conforming to ASTM E 108.
2.10 Eave Closure
A. Prefabricated EPDM synthetic rubber conforming to ASTM D 1056.
B. Prefabricated metal eave closure.
C. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure.
D. Mortar (color optional) on granular surface underlayments only.
2.11 Coating
A. Paint – color coordinated paint for painting tile, flashing and/or accessories (optional).
B. Sealer – for point-up mortar (optional).
C. Tint Seal – color coordinated sealer for staining tile or accessories (optional).
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2.12 Sheathing – Material shall conform to APA rated sheathing.
NOTE: Refer to building code wind load requirements.
A. Minimum span rated 32/16; 15/32” thick APA rated sheathing.
B. Battens – material to be decay resistant.
1. Battens shall not be bowed or twisted.
2. Horizontal battens should be a nominal 1” x 2”.
C. Nailer Boards – material to be decay resistant.
1. Nailer boards shall not be bowed or twisted.
2. Nailer boards shall be a nominal 2 inches x (sufficient height to satisfy conditions).
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System Four
Adhesive-Set Tile Guidelines
Underlayment Option “A”
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:
Slope
of
Roof
4” : 12” and
greater
4” : 12” and
greater
4” : 12” and
greater
4” : 12” and
greater
4” : 12” and
greater
As tested
Battens
or Direct
Deck
Either
Either
Either
Either
Either
Either
Choice of Underlayments
1. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or
Modified Cap Sheet
2. Hot Mop Application – No.30 or No.43 /
90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet
3. Cold Process Application – No.30 or No.43
/ 90# Organic or or Modified Cap Sheet
4. Self-Adhered Underlayment -Applied
Direct to Wood Deck
5. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
6. Alternative Membranes
Plastic or Compatible
Cement at
Penetrating
Underlayments
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Not Required
Reference
3.02A
3.02B
3.02C
3.02D
3.02E
3.02F
NOTE: All applications above must use preformed flashings with metal edge returns and a 3”
tile headlap unless restricted or dictated by product design.
NOTE: Not all tiles are designed to be engaged over battens. Check with roof tile
manufacturer.
System #4 – Option “A”
3.02 Underlayment Application – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with compatible flashing cement and membrane
where applicable.
NOTE: Anchor sheet fastening shall be in accordance with Tables 1 to 5C.
NOTE: Anchor sheet shall be a minimum 2-plys in the valley.
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment
with this system (except on 3.02 D).
A. Single-ply 90# Organic Cap Sheet or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing A-1)
A 90# organic cap sheet or modified cap sheet underlayment application can be installed with
tiles applied direct to the cap sheet. Prior to applying the 90# or modified cap sheet, attach a
36” wide strip of same underlayment, (sweat sheet) down the center of the valley. Secure near
the edge of the felt 24” on center. Apply a 90# or modified cap sheet perpendicular to the slope
of the roof and mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails
or other fasteners according to the Anchor Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C near the top edge
of felt. Use a minimum 4” head lap and 6” side laps. Extend anchor sheet up vertical surfaces
a minimum 4”. Overlap hip and ridges a minimum of 6”. Secure near the edge of felt 12” on
center at overlaps and side laps of the underlayment.
DRAWING A-1
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B. Hot Mop Application – No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing A-2)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor
Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C near the top edge of felt. Extend anchor sheet a minimum of
4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall
be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply a layer of organic cap sheet with an
application rate of 25 #/sq. ± 15% mopping of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may
come in contact with the base sheet, allowing felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum
of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.
C. Cold Process Application – No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing
A-2)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. A No.30 or No.43
anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round
cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C.
Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply a
cap sheet in a continuous layer of cold process adhesive at the rate of 1.5 gal/sq. or according
to underlayment/adhesive manufacturers’ recommendation. Cap sheet side laps shall be a
minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.
NOTE: For Cold Process Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap
sheet at a maximum of 3 feet on center.
DRAWING A-2
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D. Self-Adhered Underlayment – Applied Direct to Wood Deck.
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’
recommendations.
E. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. No.30 felt shall be
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other
fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheet Fastening Tables 1 to 5C. Extend anchor sheet a
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head
laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply one layer of self-adhered
underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’
recommendation.
F. Alternative Membranes
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function
in combination with a prepared roof covering.
3.03 Drip Edge Metal – Choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 4.02 B.3).
A. Single ply underlayment systems
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the eave, over the sheathing. The metal shall be
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of
compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal shall be coated
with a bed of flashing cement.
2. Apply underlayments as per section 3.02 A or B for single ply underlayments.
or,
B. 2-ply underlayment systems
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed over anchor sheet, fastened 6” on center with 12 ga.
corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped
a minimum of 2”.
2. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water shedding capabilities
of all metal laps.
3. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive.
3.04 Gable treatment -Choose one of the following:
NOTE: For two-ply underlayment systems see section 3.03 B.
A. Underlayment wrapped gable – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: Not Recommended for flush finish. Rake tiles must be installed.
1. Extend underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down onto fascia or barge board.
Secure with nails and tin tags, round cap nails or other fasteners 6” on center.
or,
2. Trim underlayment at fascia or barge board. Install a peel and stick underlayment
extending underlayment beyond rake/gable end. Fold down and seal onto fascia or barge
board.
or,
B. Metal Finish
1. Drip edge metal shall be installed at the gable, over the finished underlayment. The metal
shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roofing nails or fasteners of
compatible metals. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, insuring water
shedding capabilities of all metal laps.
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3.05 Valleys – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: (See drawing 4.05, 4.06, 4.07) Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange
of drip edge a minimum of 1”. Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2”
beyond drip edge.
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the valley
metal.
NOTE: Install preformed closed valley minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a minimum
2 1/2” high center diverter and 1” edge returns or a ribbed design with 1” center diverter,
a minimum of four (4) 3/8” ribs spaced 3 1/2” with 3 3/4” flange.
A. Install preformed closed valley. Lap all joints a minimum of 6” and apply a coating or
separator sheet for corrosion resistance (See Drawing A-3)
or,
B. Install preformed open valley with a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch-out) with a minimum
1” high twin center diverter and minimum 1” metal edge returns. Lap joints a minimum 6”
and apply a coating or separator sheet for corrosion resistance (See Drawing A- 4).
For A or B:
1. When using valley metal with returns, secure with clips fabricated from similar or
compatible material. Clip 1” metal edge returns to either deck or batten strip with roofing
nail through metal strap.
2. Trim metal at all valley/ridge junctions, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the
valley.
3. Install lead soaker at all valley/ridge junctions. Turn lead up a minimum of 1” to create a
water diverter, ensuring water shedding capabilities onto the valley.
DRAWING A-3 DRAWING A-4
3.06 Valley or Wall Flashings Termination onto Roof Plane
A. When valley or wall flashing terminates onto roof plane install in accordance with valley
flashing procedures in section 3.05 and/or 3.07 respectively.
1. Apply a lead soaker/skirt underneath the eave end of valley or wall flashing to carry water
off the valley/wall flashing back onto the field tile (See Drawing A-5).
2. If lead skirt is not used, extend length of valley metal to carry water off the valley back
onto the field tile.
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DRAWING A-5
3.07 Flashing and Counter Flashings at all Abutments (See Drawing A-6)
A. Install preformed metal wall tray 5” vertical flange, 6” base flange with 1” metal edge return
flush to base of walls over underlayment. Start at lower portion and work up to ensure
watertight application.
B. Secure with clips fabricated from compatible material 24” on center. Clip 1” metal edge
return to deck or batten strip with roofing nail through a metal strap.
C. Nail vertical metal flange near outside edge. Secure as necessary to meet job conditions. Lap
joints a minimum of 4” and apply flashing cement for corrosion resistance.
D. On block walls, seal along entire edge of vertical metal flange, covering all nail penetrations
with flashing cement and membrane.
E. On frame walls, install vapor barrier over flashing.
F. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing a minimum of 4”.
Nail metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set metal into reglets and seal
thoroughly. Lap joints a minimum of 3” and apply flashing cement or sealant between the
laps.
NOTE: Where special conditions exist, it may be necessary to increase the width of the valley
metal and/or pan flashing.
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DRAWING A-6
3.08 Head & Apron Flashing (See Drawings A-7, A-8 &A-9)
A. Install apron flashing a minimum 4” on tile surface. Nail vertical flange of flashing within 1”
of metal edge and secure as necessary. Lap metal 6”. Seal laps with flashing cement.
3.09 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. (See Drawing A-10)
A. Curbs shall be a minimun 2” x 6”, and a minimum of 1-1/2” above the tile height.
B. Install a minimum 12” width lead at eave end of each curb.
C. Secure with fasteners 6” on center, insuring nails will be covered by skylight/hood vent flange.
D. Continue with flexible or rigid flashing on both sides of the curb working up toward ridge.
Trim as necessary to ensure water shedding onto field tile.
E. Secure with roofing fasteners 6” on center.
F. Install flexible or rigid flashing on ridge end of curb.
G. Seal all nail penetrations, at skylight or hood vent joints with sealant.
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights refer to skylight manufacturer’s instructions.
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DRAWING A-7
DRAWING A-8
System #4 Option “A” 79
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DRAWING A-9
DRAWING A-10
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3.10 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc.
A. Top Flashing on Tile (See Drawings A-11, A-12 & A-13).
1. Seal around penetration with flashing cement.
2. Apply skirt flashing over last field tile cut previously installed extending under the course
of tile above penetration. Insure flashing is of sufficient width to redirect the water away
from the penetration.
3. Seal flashing to tile with sealants as needed
NOTE: Profile specific ventilators should be installed as per manufacturer’s installation
instructions.
DRAWING A-11
DRAWING A-12
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DRAWING A-13
3.11 Batten Installation (See Drawing A-14)
NOTE: Horizontal battens shall be a minimum of 4’ in length. When utilizing battens,
preformed metal flashing with metal edge returns must be used in addition to a 3” tile
head lap (unless restricted by product design). Battens are not allowed below a 4”:12”
slopes and are optional for slopes 4”:12” and above.
A. Install top edge of horizontal batten to horizontal line. Horizontal battens may be a minimum
nominal 1”x 2”.
B. Fasten and secure maximum 24” on center with nails or screws of sufficient length to penetrate
the sheathing a minimum of 3/4”.
C. Leave 1/2” space between batten ends and between batten and metal edge return.
DRAWING A-14
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System #4 Option “B” 83
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
System Four
Adhesive-Set Tile Guidelines
Underlayment Option “B”
NOTE: The following table provides the contractor with the choices available for underlayment systems.
These systems can only be used on pitches designated in the table below:
Slope
of
Roof
2”: 12” and
greater
2”: 12” and
greater
2”: 12” and
greater
2”: 12” and
greater
As tested
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Direct
Deck
Choice of Underlayments
1. Hot Mop No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or
Modified Cap Sheet
2. Cold Process No.30 or No.43/90#
Organic or Modified Cap Sheet
3. Self-Adhered Underlayment – Applied
Direct to Wood Deck
4. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
5. Alternative Membranes
Plastic or Compatible
Cement at Fasteners
Penetrating
Underlayments
Required
Required
See note below
See note below
See note below
Reference
3.02A
3.02B
3.02C
3.02D
3.02E
NOTE: Refer to underlayment manufacturer’s recommendations.
System #4 – Option “B”
3.02 Underlayment Application – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: On cap sheet, cut fishmouths and seal with compatible flashing cement and membrane
where applicable.
NOTE: Anchor sheet fastening shall be in accordance with Anchor Sheets Fastening Tables 1
to 5C.
NOTE: Anchor sheet shall be a minimum 2-plys in the valley.
NOTE: A No.15, No.30 or No.43 can be used as a dry in prior to installing the underlayment
with this system (except on 3.02 C).
A. Hot Mop Application – No.30 or No.43 / 90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing B-1)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Hot Mop’ system. The roof cover is terminated
at metal flashings. A No.30 or No.43 anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood
deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor
Sheets Fastening Tables 1 to 5C. Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces.
Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over
installed anchor sheet, apply the cap sheet with an application rate of 25 #/sq. ± 15% mopping
of asphalt. With this system the cap sheet may come in contact with the base sheet, allowing
felt to touch felt. Side laps shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and
back nailed 12” on center.
B. Cold Process Application – No.30 or No.43/90# Organic or Modified Cap Sheet (See Drawing B-1)
A two ply roof application commonly called a ‘Cold Process’ system. A No.30 or No.43
anchor sheet shall be mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round
cap nails or other fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheets Fastening Tables 1 to 5C.
Extend anchor sheet a minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchors sheet side laps shall be a
minimum of 6” and head laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply
the cap sheet in a continuous layer of cold process adhesive at the rate of 1.5 gal/sq. or
according to underlayment/adhesive manufacturers recommendation. Cap sheet side laps
shall be a minimum of 6”; head laps shall be a minimum of 3” and back nailed 12” on center.
NOTE: For Cold Process Systems, in windy conditions, it may be necessary to spot nail cap
sheet at laps at a maximum of 3’ on center.
C. Self-Adhered Underlayment – Applied Direct to Wood Deck.
A single ply underlayment system utilizing self-adhered underlayment. Apply one layer of
self-adhered underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’
recommendations.
D. No.30/Self-Adhered Underlayment
A two ply roof application utilizing a self-adhered underlayment. No.30 felt shall be
mechanically attached to the wood deck with nails and tin caps, round cap nails or other
fasteners spaced according to Anchor Sheets Fastening Tables 1 to 5C. Extend anchor sheet a
minimum of 4” up vertical surfaces. Anchor sheet side laps shall be a minimum of 6” and head
laps shall be a minimum of 2”. Over installed anchor sheet, apply one layer of a self-adhered
underlayment in compliance with the self-adhered underlayment manufacturers’
recommendation.
E. Alternative Membranes
Any product consisting of one or more water shedding layers applied to a sloped roof prior to
the application of a prepared roof covering having been tested in compliance with the building
code. The primary purpose of an underlayment is defined as a water shedding layer to function
in combination with a prepared roof covering.
System #4 Option “B” 84
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
3.03 Eave Drip Metal – Choose one of the following: (For anti-ponding metal, see Section 4.02 B.3).
A. Drip edge metal shall be installed over anchor sheet, fastened 6” on center with 12 ga.
corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners of compatible metals. All joints shall be lapped a
minimum of 2”. Continue from eave up rake/gable in same manner, ensuring water shedding
capabilities of all metal laps. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic
adhesive.
DRAWING B-1
or,
B. Drip edge metal shall be installed at eave over the finished cap sheet. The metal shall be
fastened 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant roof nails or fasteners of compatible
metals. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 2”. The metal and underlayment shall be
joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass
fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
3.04 Valleys – Choose one of the following: (See Drawings B-2, B-3, B-4)
NOTE: Outer edge of the valley metal shall overlap deck flange of drip edge a minimum of 1”.
Center of valley flashing shall extend a minimum of 2” beyond drip edge.
System #4 Option “B” 85
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
NOTE: Preformed valley metal shall be either a minimum width of 16” (24” stretch out) with a
minimum 2 1/2” high center diverter or a ribbed design with 1” center diverter, a
minimum four (4) 3/8” bibs spaced 3 1/2” with a 3 3/4” flange.
A. Two Ply System – Choose one of the following:
1. Standard Roll Metal – minimum width of 16”, shall be placed over the anchor sheet in the
valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails,
or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All
joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall
be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawing B-5).
or,
2. Preformed metal without returns – minimum 16” wide, shall be placed over the anchor
sheet in the valley and shall fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap
sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive (See Drawings B-6).
B. Over Cap Sheet – Choose one of the following:
1. Standard Roll Metal – minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the cap sheet in the valley
and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant roofing nails, or other
fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley metal. All joints shall
be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap sheet shall be joined
with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric.
The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
or,
2. Preformed Metal Without Returns -minimum 16” wide shall be placed over the anchor
sheet in the valley and shall be fastened 6” on center with 12 gauge corrosion resistant
roofing nails, or other fasteners of compatible metals near the outside edge of the valley
metal. All joints shall be lapped a minimum of 6” in a bed of flashing cement. The cap
sheet shall be joined with a bed of flashing cement and a 4” strip of asphalt saturated
cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the flashing cement.
DRAWING B-2
System #4 Option “B” 86
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING B-3
DRAWING B-4
System #4 Option “B” 87
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
3.05 Flashing and Counter Flashing at Wall Abutments – choose one of the following:
A. Two Ply System
1. Install 4”x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on the anchor sheet.
2. Fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant nails or other fasteners of compatible
metals near the outside edges of metal.
3. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps.
4. The cap sheet shall be bonded to the metal with asphaltic adhesive. (See Drawings B-6,
B-9 & B-10).
or,
B. Over Cap Sheet
1. Install 4”x 5” “L” flashing flush to base of walls with 4” flange on top of cap sheet.
2. Fasten 6” on center with 12 ga. corrosion resistant nails or other fasteners of compatible
metals near the outside edges of metal.
3. Lap joints 4” and apply flashing cement between laps.
4. Cap sheet shall be joined to the “L” flashing with flashing cement and a minimum 4” strip
of asphalt saturated cotton or fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embedded in the
flashing cement. ( See Drawing B-7 & B-8).
C. Seal along top edge of vertical flange, covering all nail penetrations with flashing cement and
membrane where required.
D. When installing optional counter flashing, lap top flange of base flashing minimum 4”. Nail
metal near the outside edge a minimum of 6” on center or set into reglets (secure properly)
and thoroughly caulk. Lap joints minimum 3” and apply flashing cement between laps.
DRAWING B-5
System #4 Option “B” 88
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING B-6
DRAWING B-7
System #4 Option “B” 89
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING B-8
3.06 Standard Curb Mounted Skylights, Chimneys, Etc. ( See 3.05 above)
A. Install in compliance with regular flashing installation procedures.
NOTE: For self curbing or prefabricated skylights, refer to skylight manufacturer’s installation
instructions.
3.07 Pipes, Turbines, Vents, Etc. – Choose one of the following:
A. Two-Ply System ( See Drawings B-11, B-12, & B-13).
1. Apply flashing cement around base of protrusion and on the bottom side of the metal
flanges sealing the unit base flashing to anchor sheet.
2. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing. Make certain base is flush to deck.
or,
System #4 Option “B” 90
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
B. Over Cap Sheet (See Drawing B-14)
1. Install unit base flashing over cap sheet.
2. Nail and secure all sides of base flashing. Make certain base is flush to deck.
3. Metal flange shall be joined to cap sheet with a bed of flashing cement and a strip of
asphalt saturated cotton of fiberglass fabric. The fabric shall be fully embed in the flashing
cement.
C. Profile specific ventilators
1. Shall be installed as per manufacturer’s installation instructions.
DRAWING B-9
System #4 Option “B” 91
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING B-10
System #4 Option “B” 92
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING B-11
DRAWING B-12
DRAWING B-13
DRAWING B-14
System #4 Option “B” 93
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
PART IV – TILE APPLICATION
4.01 Tile Layout
NOTE: When utilizing a single-ply mechanical fastened underlayment or when utilizing
battens, a 3” tile head lap must be used (unless restricted by product design).
A. Layout – Horizontal (3” tile head laps or batten installation)
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on the tile type, use of gutter, or other functional
requirements.
NOTE: For batten installation only, chalk line 1 1/2” from ridge.
2. Chalk succeeding lines for a minimum 3” head lap unless restricted by product design.
3. Increase head lap when necessary for equal course spacing.
NOTE: When utilizing a single-ply peel and stick underlayment or a two-ply asphaltic adhesive
underlayment system, a minimum 2” head lap may be used unless restricted or dictated
by product design.
or,
B. Layout – Horizontal (for 2” head lap)
1. Chalk horizontal lines beginning one tile length from eave less desired overhang.
Overhang shall be 3/4” to 2”, depending on tile type, use of gutter, or other functional
requirements.
2. Chalk succeeding lines to accommodate a minimum 2” tile head lap unless restricted by
product design.
3. Increase head lap when necessary for equal course spacing.
C. Layout – Vertical – choose one of the following:
1. Staggered/cross bond tile installation (Recommended for flat/low profile tile)
a. Gable end roof
i. Chalk vertical lines one full tile and one half tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting
gable to accommodate rake tile.
or,
ii. Chalk vertical lines one full and one half tile width from starting gable to
accommodate flush finish.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
NOTE: Flush finish gable treatment can only be used when utilizing a single-ply peel and stick
underlayment or a two-ply asphaltic adhesive underlayment system.
b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical line 90 degrees from eave line.
ii. Chalk second line parallel to first to accommodate staggered/cross bonded tile.
iii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
or,
2. Straight bond tile installation (Not recommended for flat tile)
a. Gable end roof
i. Chalk vertical line one full tile width plus 1” to 2” from starting gable.
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
b. Hip roof
i. Chalk vertical lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
ii. Chalk additional lines, if necessary, to maintain alignment.
System #4 Option “A” & “B” 94
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
4.02 Tile Installation
A. Stack tile to facilitate installation and minimize tile movement.
B. Eave treatment – Choose one of the following:
1. Prefabricated Rubber Eave Closure – Install closure strip along eave. Fasten with a
minimum 3 fasteners per 36” strip (See Drawing 4.01)
or,
2. Metal Eave Closure – Install closure strip along eave. Fasten a minimum 18” on center. If
metal closure is inclusive of the drip edge fasten 6” on center (See Drawing 4.02)
or,
3. Raised Fascia/Wood Starter Strip – When using a 3/4” raised fascia, a 2” x 2” wood starter
strip must be installed behind fascia. The use of eave closure is required in a raised fascia
system when using a medium or high profile tile.
a. Install fascia board approximately 1 1/2” above roof deck or a 2” x 2” wood starter
strip at roof edge (See Drawing 4.03). Choose one of the following:
i. Install 8” tapered cant strip at eave behind fascia and/or starter strip to support
metal flashing and ensure positive drainage when using drip edge.
or
ii. Install a minimum 8” wide anti-ponding metal flashing to ensure positive
drainage over fascia/starter strip. Nail top edge of flange onto roof. Tapered cant
strip is optional when using anti-ponding metal.
b. Apply underlayment as per Underlayment System A or B Sections 3.02.
4. Prefabricated concrete or clay eave closure. (Apply per manufacturer’s instructions.)
5. Mortar Application – Install mortar to elevate eave edge of tile.
a. Apply mortar along the eave edge, applying enough mortar to elevate the eave end of
the tile to be on profile with the remaining roof tiles.
b. Point and smooth finish flush to eave.
c. Apply a minimum 3/8” weep hole flush with the underlayment at the spacing of not
less than one weep hole per tile.
DRAWING 4.01
System #4 Option “A” & “B” 95
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 4.02
DRAWING 4.03
4.03 Flat / Low, Medium and High Profile Tile
NOTE: Adhesive set tile shall be applied at a pitch of 4”:12” and higher for mechanically
attached single-ply underlayment systems (Underlayment Option “A” ), and at a slope
of 2”:12” and higher for self-adhered peel and stick underlayment systems or two-ply
asphaltic adhesive underlayment systems (Underlayment Option “B” ).
NOTE: For slopes above 6”:12” up to and including 7”:12” fasten every tile in the first course
and every third tile of the fifth course in addition to the tile adhesive. For slopes above
7”:12” fasten every tile in addition to the tile adhesive. Apply compatible flashing
cement to seal all fastener penetrations where required. When utilizing battens and tiles
with batten lugs additional fastening is not required.
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.
System #4 Option “A” & “B” 96
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Adhesive quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with
specific adhesive manufacturer for installation instructions. Installations shall be based
on tested methods as indicated in the compliance report, or product approval, listing the
amounts, tested paddy placement and specific corresponding resistance values.
A. Starting at the eave, install first course of tile according to the tile and adhesive manufacturer’s
instructions. Make certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first course.
B. Install and secure all succeeding field, perimeter and corner tile according to the adhesive
manufacturer’s instructions.
C. Cut/break tile for proper staggering of tile courses when using the staggered/cross bond
method of installation.
D. Set tile in stepped course fashion or in a horizontal and/or vertical fashion when utilizing
straight bond method.
E. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge and valleys.
4.04 Two Piece Barrel Tile (See Drawing 4.04)
NOTE: For slopes above 6”:12” up to and including 7”:12” fasten every pan tile in the first
course and every 5th course thereafter in addition to the tile adhesive. For slopes above
7”:12” fasten every pan in addition to the tile adhesive. Apply compatible flashing
cement to seal all fastener penetrations where required.
NOTE: Tile shall be attached to resist the aerodynamic moment determined when using the
design pressures for the building and fixing calculations set forth in the building code.
Adhesive quantities and placement determine the total resistance values. Consult with
specific adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Installations shall be based on tested
methods as indicated in the compliance report, or product approval, listing the amounts,
tested paddy placement and specific corresponding resistance values.
A. Starting at the eaves, install first course of tile according to the tile and adhesive
manufacturer’s instructions. Support of eaves pan tile if necessary, until the adhesive has a
chance to cure. Make certain all tile overhangs drip edge evenly along entire first course.
B. Install and secure all succeeding field, perimeter and corner tile according to the adhesive
manufacturer’s instructions.
C. Cut/break field tile to form straight edge at center of hip/ridge and valleys.
DRAWING 4.04
System #4 Option “A” & “B” 97
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
4.05 Valleys – Choose one of the following:
NOTE: It is not recommended to install trim tile in valleys. It may be necessary to remove the
lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extended at walls and valley flashings for
proper positioning of cut field tiles.
A. Standard Roll Valley (See Drawing 4.05) Choose one of the following:
1. Closed Valley – Miter tile to meet at the center of valley.
or,
2. Open Valley – Chalk a line minimum 2” on both sides of valley center. Place bed of mortar
along outside of chalk lines. Miter tile to form straight border and point to match tile
surface.
or,
B. Preformed Metals
1. Closed Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of water diverter (See
Drawing 4.06).
2. Open Valley – Miter tile to form straight border on either side of two water diverters (See
Drawing 4.07).
DRAWING 4.05
System #4 Option “A” & “B” 98
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
DRAWING 4.06
DRAWING 4.07
4.06 Hip and Ridge Nailer Boards – Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.
4.07 Hip Starter – Refer to section on supplemental instructions for hip and ridge attachment.
4.08 Hip and Ridge Installation – Refer to instructions for hip and ridge attachment.
4.09 Rake/Gable Tile – Choose one of the following:
A. Rake/Gable Tile
1. Install first rake tile to exposed length of first course of field tile with factory finish of rake
tile towards the eave.
System #4 Option “A” & “B” 99
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
2. Fasten rake tile with minimum two 10D nails or screws of sufficient length to penetrate
the framing a minimum of 3/4”.
3. Abut each succeeding rake tile to the nose of the field tile above and maintain a constant
headlap.
or
B. Metal Finish
1. Install prefabricated gable metal with 1” water return.
2. Fasten by clipping 24” on center.
NOTE: Rake tile application at finishing end may need special consideration to provide proper
drainage, i.e. flashing or sealant may be needed.
or
C. Mortar Finish
NOTE: Can be used with underlayment option “B” only.
1. Place mortar bed along roof edge.
2. Point smooth to a straight finish.
4.10 Wall Abutments
A. Cut tile to fit approximately 1/2” to base of walls.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the lugs from the field tile and/or install batten extenders at
wall and valley flashing for proper positioning of cut field tiles and to facilitate water flow.
4.11 Plumbing Stacks
NOTE: For tile installations using Underlayment Option “A”, see Section 3.10 of that section
for Plumbing Stack instructions. For tile installations using Underlayment Option “B”,
see Section 3.07.
A. Cut tile to fit close to plumbing stack.
B. Fill void with mortar and point to finish.
4.12 Coatings – (optional)
A. Sealer may be applied to exposed mortar.
B. Color coordinated paint may be applied to all metal flashing.
4.13 Tile Replacement
A. Damaged Tile
1. Break out and replace damaged roof tile. Do not disturb underlayment. Repair
underlayment if necessary.
2. Apply adhesive per manufacturers instruction for replacement of broken tile.
3. Immediately set replacement tile in position assuring proper contact.
B. Small Valley and Hip Cuts
1. Elevate nose end of tile in course above small cut tile. Apply adhesive per adhesive
manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Immediately set tile in course above in position assuring proper contact.
NOTE: For roof slopes above 7”:12’, on hip cuts only, mechanical fastening may be required.
4.14 Clean-Up
A. Remove all broken tile, debris and excess tile from roof.
4.15 Miscellaneous recommendations
A. Instructions shall be given to all parties involved cautioning against traffic of any kind allowed
on finished roof. Damage to roof tiles and/or sub-roof may result.
System #4 Option “A” & “B” 100
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Appendix 101
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
APPENDIX
ANCHOR SHEET FASTENING TABLE INSTRUCTIONS
CLASSIFICATION OF BUILDINGS AND OTHER STRUCTURES FOR
IMPORTANT FACTORS
EXPOSURE CATEGORIES
BASIC WIND SPEED MAP
TABLE 1, ALLOWABLE UPLIFT RESISTANCE FOR ANCHOR SHEET
ATTACHMENT
TABLES 2A THROUGH 3D REQUIRED DESIGN PRESSURE FOR
UNDERLAYMENT AND HIP AND RIDGE TILE
REQUIRED AERODYNAMIC UPLIFT MOMENT TABLES
INSTRUCTIONS
TABLES 4A THROUGH 5D REQUIRED AERODYNAMIC UPLIFT
MOMENT TABLES
TABLES 6 THROUGH 9 TILE ATTACHMENT RESISTANCE VALUES
USING MECHANICAL FASTENERS
TABLE 10 TILE ATTACHMENT RESISTANCE INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ADHESIVE-SET, MORTAR SET AND PROPRIETARY MECHANICAL
FASTENING SYSTEMS
TABLE 11 HIP AND RIDGE SUPPORT MEMBER ATTACHMENT
INSTRUCTIONS
Anchor Sheet Fastening Table Instructions
The mean roof height limitations for attaching an anchor sheet to a wood surface substrate are based on many
variables. The nail spacing, type of nail, thickness of the sheathing, type of anchor sheet, and the pitch of the
roof are the variables we took into account to determine the mean roof height limitations in Tables 1.
Table 1
Table 1 is to be used when utilizing a two-ply, hot or cold process, underlayment system or for systems where a
cap sheet is bonded to an anchor sheet and applying roof tiles with an adhesive-set or mortar-set system. This
table indicates the fastening pattern for the field, the underlayment laps, any back nailing requirements of the
cap sheet for both smooth or deformed shank nails.
Tables 2A through 2D and 3A through 3D
Tables 2A through 2D are the required underlayment design pressures and required (conservative) hip and ridge
design pressures based on Exposure B. Tables 3A through 3D are the required underlayment design pressures
and required (conservative) hip and ridge design pressures based on Exposure C. (See the classification of
buildings and other structures for importance factors on page 104 and Exposure Categories on page 105.)
Instructions
Step 1) Determine the required underlayment design pressure from Tables 2A through 3D based on
the following parameters:
a) Classification of Buildings and Other Structures for Importance Factors: Determine from
the Classification of Buildings and Other Structures for Importance Factors and the
Exposure Categories listed on page 104 and 105.
b) Pitch of Roof: Acquire from job site.
c) Mean Roof Height: Acquire from job site.
d) Basic Wind Speed: Determine basic wind speed for your area from Basic Wind Speed
Map on page 106 and be sure to check with the local building code, especially for areas
where the boundary lines intersect a county.
Example
a) Exposure Category: B
b) Building Category: II
c) Importance Factor: 1.00
d) Type and Pitch of Roof: Gable – 5:12
e) Mean Roof Height: 20 feet
f) Basic Wind Speed: 140 mph
Based on the above mentioned parameters and Table 1, the required underlayment design pressure
for the example above = 77.7 psf
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 102
Step 2) Determine the appropriate fastening pattern required to meet or exceed the underlayment
design pressures as determined in step 1 above. Refer to Table 1, the allowable uplift resistance
values are determined by the following parameters:
a) Determine the thickness of the sheathing (15/32” or 19/32”) from the job site.
b) Determine the type of nail to be used on the job site (smooth or ring shank).
c) Find the allowable uplift pressure from Table 1 that meets or exceeds the required design
pressure as determined from step 1 above. The anchor sheet must be attached to the
substrate according to the required fastening pattern determined above.
Example:
30 / 90 hot mop system
19/32” plywood (5/8”) – Use 19/32” columns
Ring Shank nails – use “Deformed” column under the 19/32” column
Using the example in step 1 above, use a fastening pattern that meets or exceeds 77.7 psf.
The minimum options are as follows:
1) Two rows 6” on center in the field 6” at the laps and back nail the cap sheet 12” on center. This
fastening pattern achieves 82.9 psf.
or,
2) Three rows 10” on center in the field 6” at the laps and back nail the cap sheet 12” on center.
This fastening pattern achieves 78.3 psf.
Either one of these fastening pattern options is an acceptable anchor sheet fastening pattern.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 103
CLASSIFICATION OF BUILDINGS AND OTHER STRUCTURES FOR IMPORTANCE FACTORS
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 104
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 105
Basic Wind Speed Map
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 106
TABLE 1
(For use with a two-ply underlayment system where a cap sheet is bonded to an anchor sheet)
Note 1: For Mechanically Attached Single Ply Underlayment Systems Contact the Adhesive Manufacturer
Two-Ply Underlayment Fastening Systems – (Two Rows in Field)
Allowable Uplift Resistance
Attachment Field Lap Backnail (psf)
(inches o/c) (inches o/c) Cap Sheet 15/32 inch 19/32 inch
(inches o/c) Smooth Deformed1 Smooth Deformed1
12 6 12 41.6 47.4 52.7 60.0
11 6 12 43.1 49.1 54.6 62.1
Two rows staggered 10 6 12 44.9 51.0 56.8 64.6
in the field, one row at 9 6 12 47.0 53.5 59.5 67.7
the lap, and one row 8 6 12 49.6 56.5 62.9 71.5
at the top edge of the 7 6 12 53.0 60.3 67.2 76.4
cap sheet. 6 6 12 57.6 65.5 72.9 82.9
5 6 12 63.9 72.7 81.0 92.0
4 6 12 73.5 83.6 93.0 105.8
3 6 12 89.3 101.6 113.2 128.6
Two-Ply Underlayment Fastening Systems – (Three Rows in Field)
Allowable Uplift Resistance
Attachment Field Lap Backnail (psf)
(inches o/c) (inches o/c) Cap Sheet 15/32 inch 19/32 inch
(inches o/c) Smooth Deformed1 Smooth Deformed1
12 6 12 49.6 56.5 62.9 71.5
11 6 12 51.8 58.9 65.6 74.6
Three rows staggered 10 6 12 54.4 61.9 68.9 78.3
in the field, one row at 9 6 12 57.6 65.5 72.9 82.9
the lap, and one row 8 6 12 61.5 70.0 78.0 88.6
at the top edge of the 7 6 12 66.6 75.8 84.4 96.0
cap sheet. 6 6 12 73.5 83.6 93.0 105.8
5 6 12 83.0 94.4 105.1 119.5
4 6 12 97.3 110.7 123.2 140.1
3 6 12 121.1 137.8 153.4 174.4
Two-Ply Underlayment Fastening Systems – (Four Rows in Field)
Allowable Uplift Resistance
Attachment Field Lap Backnail (psf)
(inches o/c) (inches o/c) Cap Sheet 15/32 inch 19/32 inch
(inches o/c) Smooth Deformed1 Smooth Deformed1
12 6 12 58.6 66.6 74.2 84.3
11 6 12 61.4 69.9 77.8 88.5
Four rows staggered 10 6 12 64.9 73.9 82.2 93.5
in the field, one row at 9 6 12 69.2 78.7 87.6 99.6
the lap, and one row 8 6 12 74.4 84.7 94.3 107.2
at the top edge of the 7 6 12 81.3 92.4 102.9 117.0
cap sheet. 6 6 12 90.3 102.8 114.4 130.1
5 6 12 103.0 117.2 130.5 148.4
4 6 12 122.1 138.9 154.6 175.8
3 6 12 153.9 175.1 194.9 221.6
Note1: Deformed shank is inclusive of either a ring or screw shank nail.
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 only.
ALLOWABLE UPLIFT RESISTANCE FOR ANCHOR SHEET ATTACHMENT
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 107
Table 2A
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure B
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < ? < = 6:12 )
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 < ? < = 6:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 32.1 39.6 43.7 48.0 57.1 61.9 67.0 77.7 83.3 89.2
40 34.9 43.0 47.4 52.1 62.0 67.2 72.7 84.3 90.5 96.8
50 37.2 45.9 50.6 55.5 66.0 71.7 77.5 89.9 96.4 103.2
60 39.1 48.3 53.3 58.5 69.6 75.5 81.7 94.7 101.6 108.7
0 – 30 36.9 45.6 50.3 55.2 65.6 71.2 77.0 89.3 95.8 102.6
40 40.1 49.5 54.6 59.9 71.3 77.3 83.6 97.0 104.0 111.3
50 42.7 52.7 58.2 63.8 76.0 82.4 89.1 103.4 110.9 118.7
60 45.0 55.6 61.3 67.2 80.0 86.8 93.9 108.9 116.8 125.0
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Height (ft) above Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
ground level, z
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 108
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure B
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 21.0 25.9 28.6 31.4 37.3 40.5 43.8 50.8 54.5 58.3
40 22.8 28.1 31.0 34.0 40.5 44.0 47.6 55.1 59.2 63.3
50 24.3 30.0 33.1 36.3 43.2 46.9 50.7 58.8 63.1 67.5
60 25.6 31.6 34.8 38.2 45.5 49.4 53.4 61.9 66.4 71.1
0 – 30 24.1 29.8 32.9 36.1 42.9 46.6 50.4 58.4 62.7 67.1
40 26.2 32.4 35.7 39.2 46.6 50.6 54.7 63.4 68.0 72.8
50 27.9 34.5 38.0 41.7 49.7 53.9 58.3 67.6 72.5 77.6
60 29.4 36.3 40.1 44.0 52.3 56.8 61.4 71.2 76.4 81.7
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < ? < = 5½:12 )
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 2B
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 109
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure B
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 < ? < = 12:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 14.8 18.3 20.2 22.1 26.3 28.6 30.9 35.9 38.5 41.2
40 16.1 19.9 21.9 24.0 28.6 31.0 33.6 38.9 41.8 44.7
50 17.1 21.2 23.3 25.6 30.5 33.1 35.8 41.5 44.5 47.6
60 18.1 22.3 24.6 27.0 32.1 34.8 37.7 43.7 46.9 50.2
0 – 30 17.0 21.0 23.2 25.5 30.3 32.9 35.6 41.2 44.2 47.3
40 18.5 22.8 25.2 27.6 32.9 35.7 38.6 44.8 48.0 51.4
50 19.7 24.3 26.8 29.5 35.1 38.0 41.1 47.7 51.2 54.8
60 20.8 25.6 28.3 31.0 36.9 40.1 43.3 50.3 53.9 57.7
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Table 2C
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 110
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure B
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 < ? < = 6¾:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 35.8 44.2 48.7 53.5 63.7 69.1 74.7 86.7 93.0 99.5
40 38.9 48.0 52.9 58.1 69.1 75.0 81.1 94.1 100.9 108.0
50 41.4 51.2 56.4 61.9 73.7 79.9 86.5 100.3 107.6 115.1
60 43.7 53.9 59.4 65.2 77.6 84.2 91.1 105.6 113.3 121.3
0 – 30 41.2 50.8 56.1 61.5 73.2 79.4 85.9 99.6 106.9 114.4
40 44.7 55.2 60.9 66.8 79.5 86.2 93.3 108.2 116.1 124.2
50 47.7 58.8 64.9 71.2 84.7 91.9 99.4 115.3 123.7 132.4
60 50.2 62.0 68.3 75.0 89.2 96.8 104.7 121.5 130.3 139.4
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 2D
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 111
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure C
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < ?< = 6:12 )
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 < ?< = 6:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 38.9 48.0 52.9 58.1 69.2 75.0 81.2 94.1 101.0 108.1
20 41.3 51.0 56.3 61.7 73.5 79.7 86.2 100.0 107.3 114.8
25 43.3 53.5 59.0 64.7 77.0 83.6 90.4 104.8 112.4 120.3
30 45.0 55.6 61.3 67.2 80.0 86.8 93.9 108.9 116.8 125.0
40 47.8 59.0 65.1 71.4 85.0 92.3 99.8 115.7 124.1 132.8
50 50.1 61.9 68.2 74.9 89.1 96.7 104.6 121.3 130.1 139.2
60 52.1 64.3 70.9 77.8 92.6 100.5 108.7 126.0 135.2 144.7
0 – 15 44.7 55.2 60.9 66.8 79.5 86.3 93.3 108.3 116.1 124.3
20 47.5 58.7 64.7 71.0 84.5 91.7 99.2 115.0 123.4 132.0
25 49.8 61.5 67.8 74.4 88.6 96.1 103.9 120.5 129.3 138.4
30 51.8 63.9 70.5 77.3 92.0 99.9 108.0 125.3 134.4 143.8
40 55.0 67.9 74.9 82.2 97.8 106.1 114.7 133.1 142.8 152.8
50 57.6 71.2 78.5 86.1 102.5 111.2 120.3 139.5 149.6 160.1
60 59.9 73.9 81.5 89.5 106.5 115.5 125.0 144.9 155.5 166.4
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 3A
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 112
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure C
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < ?< = 5½:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 25.4 31.4 34.6 38.0 45.2 49.1 53.1 61.5 66.0 70.7
20 27.0 33.4 36.8 40.4 48.0 52.1 56.4 65.4 70.1 75.1
25 28.3 35.0 38.6 42.3 50.4 54.6 59.1 68.5 73.5 78.7
30 29.4 36.3 40.1 44.0 52.3 56.8 61.4 71.2 76.4 81.8
40 31.3 38.6 42.6 46.7 55.6 60.3 65.2 75.7 81.2 86.9
50 32.8 40.5 44.6 49.0 58.3 63.2 68.4 79.3 85.1 91.0
60 34.1 42.0 46.4 50.9 60.5 65.7 71.1 82.4 88.4 94.6
0 – 15 29.3 36.1 39.8 43.7 52.0 56.4 61.0 70.8 75.9 81.3
20 31.1 38.4 42.3 46.4 55.2 59.9 64.8 75.2 80.7 86.3
25 32.6 40.2 44.3 48.7 57.9 62.8 68.0 78.8 84.5 90.5
30 33.8 41.8 46.1 50.6 60.2 65.3 70.6 81.9 87.9 94.0
40 36.0 44.4 48.9 53.7 63.9 69.4 75.0 87.0 93.3 99.9
50 37.7 46.5 51.3 56.3 67.0 72.7 78.6 91.2 97.8 104.7
60 39.2 48.4 53.3 58.5 69.6 75.5 81.7 94.8 101.7 108.8
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Table 3B
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 113
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure C
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 < ? < = 12:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 18.0 22.2 24.4 26.8 31.9 34.6 37.5 43.4 46.6 49.9
20 19.1 23.6 26.0 28.5 33.9 36.8 39.8 46.2 49.5 53.0
25 20.0 24.7 27.2 29.9 35.5 36.6 41.7 48.4 51.9 55.5
30 20.8 25.6 28.3 31.0 36.9 40.1 43.3 50.3 53.9 57.7
40 22.1 27.2 30.0 33.0 39.2 42.6 46.1 53.4 57.3 61.3
50 23.1 28.6 31.5 34.6 41.1 44.6 48.3 56.0 60.0 64.3
60 24.0 29.7 32.7 35.9 42.7 46.4 50.2 58.2 62.4 66.8
0 – 15 20.6 25.5 28.1 30.8 36.7 39.8 43.1 50.0 53.6 57.4
20 21.9 27.1 29.9 32.8 39.0 42.3 45.8 53.1 56.9 60.9
25 23.0 28.4 31.1 34.3 40.9 44.4 48.0 55.6 59.7 63.9
30 23.9 29.5 32.5 35.7 42.5 46.1 49.8 57.8 62.0 66.4
40 25.4 31.3 34.5 37.9 45.1 49.0 53.0 61.4 65.9 70.5
50 26.6 32.8 36.2 39.7 47.3 51.3 55.5 64.4 69.1 73.9
60 27.6 34.1 37.6 41.3 49.1 53.3 57.7 66.9 71.8 76.8
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Table 3C
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 114
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
Category II Buildings
Underlayment Table for Systems 3 & 4 Only
and
Hip and Ridge Design Pressures
Required Design Pressures, p (psf)
Exposure C
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 < ? < = 6¾:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 43.4 53.6 59.1 64.8 77.1 83.7 90.5 105.0 112.6 120.5
20 46.1 56.9 62.7 68.9 82.0 88.9 96.2 111.5 119.7 128.1
25 48.3 59.6 65.8 72.2 85.9 93.2 100.8 116.9 125.4 134.2
30 50.2 62.0 68.3 75.0 89.3 96.9 104.8 121.5 130.3 139.5
40 53.3 65.9 72.6 79.7 94.8 102.9 111.3 129.1 138.5 148.2
50 55.9 69.0 76.1 83.5 99.4 107.8 116.6 135.3 145.1 155.3
60 58.1 71.7 79.1 86.8 103.3 112.1 121.2 140.6 150.8 161.4
0 – 15 49.9 61.6 67.9 74.5 88.7 96.3 104.1 120.7 129.5 138.6
20 53.0 65.4 72.2 79.2 94.2 102.3 110.6 128.3 137.6 147.3
25 55.6 68.6 75.6 83.0 98.8 107.2 115.9 134.5 144.2 154.3
30 57.7 71.3 78.6 86.3 102.6 111.4 120.5 139.7 149.9 160.4
40 61.3 75.7 83.5 91.6 109.1 118.3 128.0 148.4 159.2 170.4
50 64.3 79.4 87.5 96.0 114.3 124.0 134.1 155.6 166.9 178.6
60 66.8 82.5 90.9 99.8 118.8 128.9 139.4 161.7 173.4 185.6
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Note5:
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Table 3D
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 115
The above design pressures are conservative for any hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches
(1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
To determine the required hip/ridge design pressure for the tile being used, multiply (A) (sq. ft.) times the
appropriate design pressures listed in Tables 2A through 3D.
The required aerodynamic uplift moment values for determining the attachment of clay and concrete tiles are
based on many variables. The building category, importance factor, building exposure, basic wind speed, slope
of roof, and a generic tile dimension (tile factor) of 1.407 are the variables we took into account to determine
the required uplift moment in Tables 4A through 5D.
Tables 4A through 5D
Tables 4A through 4D are to be used for non-coastal construction.
Tables 5A and 5D are to be used for coastal construction.
1. Determine the building category and importance factor from page 104, and the exposure category from
page 105.
2. Determine the mean roof height and slope of the roof.
3. Select the appropriate table based on then information gathered from numbers 1 and 2 above.
4. Follow across the basic wind speed row to the appropriate basic wind speed for the project. Then follow
down the column to the appropriate mean roof height to determine the required aerodynamic uplift
moment.
Tables 6, through 10
1. Select Tables 6, 8 or 9 based on the thickness of the decking and if tiles will be attached directly to the
deck, or use Table 7 if the tiles will be attached to battens. Refer to Table 10 for Adhesive-set or Mortarset
systems.
2. Select an attachment method where the uplift capacity from Tables 6 through 9 is equal to or greater
than the appropriate aerodynamic values listed in Tables 4A through 5D. Refer to the adhesive, mortar
or roof tile manufacturer’s product approval or evaluation report for the resistance values for these
attachment systems.
Table 11
Hip and ridge support member attachment recommendations.
For Hip and Ridge Attachment Requirements
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 116
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment Tables Instructions
Note1: To determine the required design pressures for the hip/ridge tiles, use the appropriate table from
Tables 2A through 3D based on the job site parameters. The design pressures are conservative for any
hip/ridge tile with an exposed area of 144 sq. inches (1 sq. ft.) or less. Determine the actual square foot
area of the tile being used using the following formula:
(A) ft2 = (W) (in inches) x (L) (in inches) / 144 (sq. in.)
(A) = Actual hip/ridge area (ft2)
(W) = The average exposed width of the hip/ridge tile (in inches).
(L) = The actual length of the hip/ridge tile (in inches) minus the head lap being used (typically 2”).
Note2: Resistance values for the hip and ridge tile are proprietary, and are dependent on the system used
for attachment of the hip and ridge tile. Refer to Table 10 and the appropriate manufacturer’s product
approval or evaluation report to determine the proper attachment method to meet or exceed the
hip/ridge design pressures.
Category II Buildings
Exposure B – Non-Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure B
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < 􀈙 < = 6:12 )
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 < 􀈙 < = 6:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 12.5 15.4 17.0 18.7 22.2 24.1 26.1 30.3 32.5 34.7
40 13.6 16.8 18.5 20.3 24.1 26.2 28.3 32.9 35.3 37.7
50 14.5 17.9 19.7 21.6 25.7 27.9 30.2 35.0 37.6 40.2
60 15.2 18.8 20.8 22.8 27.1 29.4 31.8 36.9 39.6 42.4
0 – 30 14.4 17.8 19.6 21.5 25.6 27.7 30.0 34.8 37.3 40.0
40 15.6 19.3 21.3 23.3 27.8 30.1 32.6 37.8 40.5 43.4
50 16.6 20.6 22.7 24.9 29.6 32.1 34.7 40.3 43.2 46.2
60 17.5 21.6 23.9 26.2 31.2 33.8 36.6 42.4 45.5 48.7
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 4A
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 117
Category II Buildings
Exposure B – Non-Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure B
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < 􀈙 < = 5½:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 9.4 11.6 12.8 14.0 16.7 18.1 19.6 22.7 24.4 26.1
40 10.2 12.6 13.9 15.2 18.1 19.6 21.3 24.6 26.4 28.3
50 10.9 13.4 14.8 16.2 19.3 20.9 22.6 26.3 28.2 30.2
60 11.4 14.1 15.6 17.1 20.3 22.1 23.9 27.7 29.7 31.8
0 – 30 10.8 13.3 14.7 16.1 19.2 20.8 22.5 26.1 28.0 30.0
40 11.7 14.5 15.9 17.5 20.8 22.6 24.4 28.3 30.4 32.5
50 12.5 15.4 17.0 18.6 22.2 24.1 26.0 30.2 32.4 34.7
60 13.2 16.2 17.9 19.6 23.4 25.4 27.4 31.8 34.1 36.5
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 4B
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 118
Category II Buildings
Exposure B – Non-Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure B
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 < 􀈙 < = 12:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 7.6 9.4 10.4 11.4 13.6 14.7 15.9 18.5 19.8 21.2
40 8.3 10.2 11.3 12.4 14.8 16.0 17.3 20.1 21.5 23.1
50 8.8 10.9 12.0 13.2 15.7 17.1 18.5 21.4 23.0 24.6
60 9.3 11.5 12.7 13.9 16.6 18.0 19.4 22.5 24.2 25.9
0 – 30 8.8 10.9 12.0 13.1 15.6 17.0 18.3 21.3 22.8 24.4
40 9.5 11.8 13.0 14.3 17.0 18.4 19.9 23.1 24.8 26.5
50 10.2 12.6 13.8 15.2 18.1 19.6 21.2 24.6 26.4 28.3
60 10.7 13.2 14.6 16.0 19.1 20.7 22.4 25.9 27.8 29.8
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Table 4C
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 119
Category II Buildings
Exposure B – Non-Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure B
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 < 􀈙 < = 6¾:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 30 13.6 16.7 18.4 20.2 24.1 26.1 28.3 32.8 35.2 37.6
40 14.7 18.2 20.0 22.0 26.2 28.4 30.7 35.6 38.2 40.9
50 15.7 19.4 21.3 23.4 27.9 30.2 32.7 37.9 40.7 43.6
60 16.5 20.4 22.5 24.7 29.4 31.9 34.5 40.0 42.9 45.9
0 – 30 15.6 19.2 21.2 23.3 27.7 30.1 32.5 37.7 40.5 43.3
40 16.9 20.9 23.0 25.3 30.1 32.6 35.3 40.9 43.9 47.0
50 18.0 22.3 24.5 26.9 32.1 34.8 37.6 43.6 46.8 50.1
60 19.0 23.5 25.9 28.4 33.8 36.6 39.6 46.0 49.3 52.8
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 4D
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 120
Category II Buildings
Exposure C – Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure C
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < 􀈙 < = 6:12 )
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 5½ :12 < 􀈙 < = 6:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 15.2 18.7 20.6 22.6 26.9 29.2 31.6 36.7 39.3 42.1
20 16.1 19.9 21.9 24.1 28.6 31.1 33.6 39.0 41.8 44.7
25 16.9 20.8 23.0 25.2 30.0 32.6 35.2 40.8 43.8 46.9
30 17.5 21.7 23.9 26.2 31.2 33.8 36.6 42.4 45.5 48.7
40 18.6 23.0 25.4 27.8 33.1 35.9 38.9 45.1 48.4 51.8
50 19.5 24.1 26.6 29.2 34.7 37.7 40.7 47.3 50.7 54.2
60 20.3 25.1 27.6 30.3 36.1 39.1 42.3 49.1 52.7 56.4
0 – 15 17.4 21.5 23.7 26.0 31.0 33.6 36.4 42.2 45.2 48.4
20 18.5 22.9 25.2 27.7 32.9 35.7 38.6 44.8 48.1 51.4
25 19.4 24.0 26.4 29.0 34.5 37.4 40.5 47.0 50.4 53.9
30 20.2 24.9 27.5 30.1 35.9 38.9 42.1 48.8 52.4 56.0
40 21.4 26.5 29.2 32.0 38.1 41.3 44.7 51.8 55.6 59.5
50 22.5 27.7 30.6 33.5 39.9 43.3 46.9 54.3 58.3 62.4
60 23.3 28.8 31.8 34.9 41.5 45.0 48.7 56.5 60.6 64.8
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 5A
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 121
Category II Buildings
Exposure C – Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure C
Hip Roofs ( For Slopes 2:12 < 􀈙 < = 5½:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 11.4 14.0 15.5 17.0 20.2 21.9 23.7 27.5 29.5 31.6
20 12.1 14.9 16.4 18.0 21.5 23.3 25.2 29.2 31.3 33.5
25 12.7 15.6 17.2 18.9 22.5 24.4 26.4 30.6 32.9 35.2
30 13.2 16.2 17.9 19.6 23.4 25.4 27.4 31.8 34.1 36.5
40 14.0 17.3 19.0 20.9 24.8 27.0 29.2 33.8 36.3 38.8
50 14.6 18.1 19.9 21.9 26.0 28.3 30.6 35.4 38.0 40.7
60 15.2 18.8 20.7 22.7 27.1 29.4 31.8 36.8 39.5 42.3
0 – 15 13.1 16.1 17.8 19.5 23.2 25.2 27.3 31.6 33.9 36.3
20 13.9 17.1 18.9 20.7 24.7 26.8 29.0 33.6 36.1 38.6
25 14.6 18.0 19.8 21.7 25.9 28.1 30.4 35.2 37.8 40.4
30 15.1 18.7 20.6 22.6 26.9 29.2 31.6 36.6 39.3 42.0
40 16.1 19.8 21.9 24.0 28.6 31.0 33.5 38.9 41.7 44.6
50 16.8 20.8 22.9 25.2 29.9 32.5 35.1 40.8 43.7 46.8
60 17.5 21.6 23.8 26.1 31.1 33.8 36.5 42.4 45.4 48.6
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 5B
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 122
Category II Buildings
Exposure C – Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure C
Gable Roofs ( For Slopes 6:12 < 􀈙 < = 12:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 9.3 11.4 12.6 13.8 16.5 17.9 19.3 22.4 24.0 25.7
20 9.8 12.1 13.4 14.7 17.5 19.0 20.5 23.8 25.5 27.3
25 10.3 12.7 14.0 15.4 18.3 19.9 21.5 25.0 26.8 28.6
30 10.7 13.2 14.6 16.0 19.1 20.7 22.4 25.9 27.8 29.8
40 11.4 14.1 15.5 17.0 20.2 22.0 23.8 27.6 29.6 31.6
50 11.9 14.7 16.2 17.8 21.2 23.0 24.9 28.9 31.0 33.2
60 12.4 15.3 16.9 18.5 22.0 23.9 25.9 30.0 32.2 34.4
0 – 15 10.7 13.2 14.5 15.9 18.9 20.5 22.2 25.8 27.6 29.6
20 11.3 14.0 15.4 16.9 20.1 21.8 23.6 27.4 29.4 31.4
25 11.9 14.6 16.1 17.7 21.1 22.9 24.7 28.7 30.8 32.9
30 12.3 15.2 16.8 18.4 21.9 23.8 25.7 29.8 32.0 34.2
40 13.1 16.2 17.8 19.6 23.3 25.3 27.3 31.7 34.0 36.4
50 13.7 16.9 18.7 20.5 24.4 26.5 28.6 33.2 35.6 38.1
60 14.3 17.6 19.4 21.3 25.4 27.5 29.8 34.5 37.0 39.6
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Table 5C
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 123
Category II Buildings
Exposure C – Coastal
Required Aerodynamic Uplift Moment, Ma (ft-lbf)
Exposure C
Monoslope Roofs ( For Slopes 2½:12 < 􀈙 < = 6¾:12 )
90 100 105 110 120 125 130 140 145 150
0 – 15 16.4 20.3 22.3 24.5 29.2 31.7 34.3 39.7 42.6 45.6
20 17.4 21.5 23.7 26.1 31.0 33.7 36.4 42.2 45.3 48.5
25 18.3 22.6 24.9 27.3 32.5 35.3 38.1 44.2 47.5 50.8
30 19.0 23.5 25.9 28.4 33.8 36.6 39.6 46.0 49.3 52.8
40 20.2 24.9 27.5 30.2 35.9 38.9 42.1 48.8 52.4 56.1
50 21.2 26.1 28.8 31.6 37.6 40.8 44.1 51.2 54.9 58.8
60 22.0 27.1 29.9 32.8 39.1 42.4 45.9 53.2 57.1 61.1
0 – 15 18.9 23.3 25.7 28.2 33.6 36.4 39.4 45.7 49.0 52.5
20 20.1 24.8 27.3 30.0 35.7 38.7 41.9 48.5 52.1 55.7
25 21.0 26.0 28.6 31.4 37.4 40.6 43.9 50.9 54.6 58.4
30 21.8 27.0 29.7 32.6 38.8 42.1 45.6 52.9 56.7 60.7
40 23.2 28.7 31.6 34.7 41.3 44.8 48.4 56.2 60.3 64.5
50 24.3 30.0 33.1 36.3 43.3 46.9 50.8 58.9 63.2 67.6
60 25.3 31.2 34.4 37.8 44.9 48.8 52.7 61.2 65.6 70.2
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Height (ft) above
ground level, z
Basic Wind Speed, V; (mph)
Standard or Special Occupancy Structures having an Importance Factor of 1.00
Table 5D
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 124
Roof Tile Attachment Resistance Values
Profile 15/32″ Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)
Flat/Low 1 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 25.2
Medium 1 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 25.2
High 1 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 35.5
Flat/Low 2 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 38.1
Medium 2 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 38.1
High 2 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 44.3
Flat/Low 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 39.1
Medium 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 36.1
High 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 28.6
Flat/Low 1 – #8 Screw 39.1
Medium 1 – #8 Screw 33.2
High 1 – #8 Screw 28.7
Flat/Low 2 – #8 Screw 50.2
Medium 2 – #8 Screw 55.5
High 2 – #8 Screw 51.3
Profile 15/32″ Decking, With Battens Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)
Flat/Low 1 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 27.5
Medium 1 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 27.5
High 1 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 29.4
Flat/Low 2 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 37.6
Medium 2 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 37.6
High 2 – 10d Smooth or Screw Shank, 1 Clip 47.2
Flat/Low 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 24.6
Medium 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 36.4
High 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 26.8
Flat/Low 1 – #8 Screw 25.6
Medium 1 – #8 Screw 30.1
High 1 – #8 Screw 25.5
Flat/Low 2 – #8 Screw 36.1
Medium 2 – #8 Screw 41.9
High 2 – #8 Screw 37.1
Profile 19/32″ Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)
Flat/Low 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 46.4
Medium 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 45.5
High 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, 1 (18-22 rings per inch) 41.2
Profile 15/32″ Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Capacity (ft.lbs.)
Flat/Low 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, With 2.5″ Nail Hole 50.3
Medium 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, With 2.5″ Nail Hole 43.0
High 2 – 10d Ringshank Nails, With 2.5″ Nail Hole 33.1
Note1: Conforms to SSTD – 11
Table 9
Table 6
Table 7
Table 8
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 125
Table 10
All Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment
For Adhesive-Set and Mortar-Set Roof Tile Attachment Only
and
Attachment Resistance Limitations – See Note4
Profile 15/32″ or 19/32″ Decking, Direct to Deck Uplift Resistance Values
Flat/Low Adhesive Based Systems See Note 1
Medium Adhesive Based Systems See Note 1
High Adhesive Based Systems See Note 1
Flat/Low Mortar Based Systems See Note 2
Medium Mortar Based Systems See Note 2
High Mortar Based Systems See Note 2
Flat/Low Propriety Mechanical Fastening Systems See Note 3
Medium Propriety Mechanical Fastening Systems See Note 3
High Propriety Mechanical Fastening Systems See Note 3
Note 1: Please contact adhesive manufacturer for approved uplift resistance values
This system produces product specific results based on laboratory testing of the
type of adhesive (one or two component) and the placement of adhesive.
Note 2: Please contact mortar manufacturer for approved uplift resistance values
This system produces product specific results based on laboratory testing of the
the composition and placement of mortar.
Note 3: Please contact roof tile or fastener manufacturer for approved uplift resistance values
This system produces product specific results based on laboratory testing of the
the type and placement of fasteners.
Note4: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 126
Hip and Ridge Support Member Attachment Recommendations
How to use Table 11:
1. Determine the Exposure Category (See Page 105).
2. Determine the thickness of the roof sheathing.
3. Determine the basic wind speed.
4. Follow the rows to the right, based on the information gathered from steps 1 through 3 above. Under
the appropriate basic wind speed column, lists the center-to-center spacing based on either a ¾” strap
using 1 screw or an 1 ½” strap using 2 screws.
Roof Number of
Sheathing Fasteners on each 100 110 120 130 140 150
(inches) side of Ridge Board
1 – #8 3/4″ 36 29 25 21 18 16
2 – #8 1-1/2″ 48 48 43 36 31 27
1 – #8 3/4″ 27 22 18 16 13 12
2 – #8 1-1/2″ 46 38 32 27 23 20
1 – #8 3/4″ 38 32 24 22 19 17
2 – #8 1-1/2″ 48 48 43 36 31 27
1 – #8 3/4″ 29 24 20 17 14 12
2 – #8 1-1/2″ 46 38 32 27 23 20
Note1: For Building Category Definition See Page 104.
Note2: For Exposure Categories See Page 105.
Note3: Table conforms to ASCE 7-02. Essential or Hazardous Facilities having an Importance Factor of 1.15
Note4: Table is good for Gable and Hip Roofs for Roof Slopes 2:12 < 􀈙 < = 12:12. Monoslope roof slopes are not addressed.
Note5: For mean roof heights over 60 feet, engineering calculations must be submitted for permitting.
C
19/32″
Exposure
15/32″
C
B
B
Center to Center Spacing (inches)
Table 11
Hip and Ridge Support Member Attachment Recommendations
Category II Buildings
Basic Wind Speeds, V (mph)
Strap Width
Notes:
1. These measurements were based on actual center-to-center spacing.
2. Minimum thickness of roof sheathing shall be 15/32”.
3. Steel straps shall have a minimum tensile strength (Fu) for cold-rolled steel of 42 ksi and a minimum
Design yield strength (fy) for cold-rolled steel of 25 ksi conforming to one of the following
ASTM A 606; ASTM A 607; ASTM A 611; ASTM A 653; ASTM A 715; and ASTM A 792.
4. Minimum thickness of steel straps shall be 26 gauge (0.0179”) before application of corrosion
Resistance protection.
5. #8 wood screws are to conform to ASME / ANSI B18.6.1.
6. #8 wood screws shall have a minimum end distance, an edge distance, and a minimum distance between screws
of ½”. The distance is to be measured to the center of the screw.
7. Table 11 is for Category II buildings with a mean roof height of 60’ or less.
8. The building is not located on isolated hills, ridges, or escarpments, constituting
Abrupt changes in general topography, which creates wind speed-up effects.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Anchor Sheet Table Instructions 127

Glossary 128
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY OF TERMS AND DEFINITIONS
The terms and definitions herein are used in the context of Concrete and Clay Tile Roofing. It should be
understood by the reader that some of the terms and definitions included herein may also have different
meanings/interpretations when used in context with other types of Roof Construc-tions, Coverings,
Roofing Materials/Systems.
AERODYNAMIC MOMENT – A quantity which expresses the effect of a force applied at a particular
point in relation to a specific point or axis.
ANCHOR SHEET – The first sheet applied to a roof deck by nailing, mopping or other approved
attachment, often called a ‘base sheet’.
ANTI-PONDING – A method to ensure positive drainage over raised fascia/starter strip at eave.
APA – American Plywood Association.
APRON FLASHING – A flexible or rigid flashing installed at head of tile onto a vertical surface.
APPLICATION RATE – The quantity (mass, volume or thickness) of material applied per unit area.
APPROVED PRODUCTS – Includes all products tested and evaluated for the approved application.
ASCE – American Society of Civil Engineers.
ASPHALT – A bituminous waterproofing agent applied to roofing materials during the manufacturing
process or in the assembly/construction of a roof covering.
ASPHALT FELT – An asphalt saturated felt or an asphalt coated felt.
ASPHALT ROOFING CEMENT – A mixture of asphaltic materials, solvents and graded mineral,
organic or inorganic fillers.
ASPHALT TYPE III -Also referred to as ‘STEEP ASPHALT’. It is a grade of asphalt designed for sloped
roofing applications and complying with ASTM SPECIFICATION D 312, TYPE III.
ASPHALT TYPE IV -Also referred to as ‘SPECIAL STEEP ASPHALT’. It is a grade of asphalt designed
for sloped roofing applications complying with ASTM D 312, TYPE IV.
ASTM – American Society for Testing and Materials.
AWPA – American Wood Preservers Association.
BACKNAILING – The practice of nailing roll roofing such that the nails are placed in the underlying
roofing and are covered by the overlapping course of roll roofing.
BASE FLASHING – That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the roof surface or deck to direct
the flow of water onto the roof covering.
Glossary 129
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
BASE SHEET – The bottom or first ply of a roof system assembly over which subsequent roofing plies
are applied.
BATTEN EXTENDER – Product designed to cantilever to center of valley and/or wall tray, nailed to
batten with no penetration through metal designed to elevate tile above valley and flashing.
BATTENS – Fastening strips installed to the underlayment or sub-roof to which roof tiles are then
installed.
BEDDING – Refers to the installation of roof tiles with mortar or polyurethane foam paddy and is
structural in nature for basic securement.
BOND – The adhesive and cohesive forces holding two roofing components in intimate contact.
CAP SHEET – Top or final ply of an underlayment system.
CLOSED VALLEY – (SEE VALLEYS).
COLD PROCESS ROOFING – A continuous semi-flexible membrane consisting of plies of felts, mats
or fabric that are laminated on a roof with alternate layers of cold-applied mastic.
CONCEALED NAIL METHOD – (SEE BACKNAILING).
COURSE – A row of tiles or roll roofing running parallel to the eave.
COUNTER FLASHING – A rigid or flexible material secured on or into a wall, curb, pipe, rooftop unit
or other surface to cover and protect the upper edge of a base flashing and its associated fasteners.
COVERAGE – The surface area (in square feet) to be continuously covered by a specific roofing material,
with allowance made for a specific lap.
CRICKET – A peaked saddle construction located at the back (high side) of a chimney (or other
appurtenance) to deflect the flow of water around the chimney.
CROSS BOND METHOD – A method of installing tiles such that the side laps of the tiles are staggered
to the preceding course.
DECK – The surface installed over the structural framing members to which roofing is applied. Another
name for sheathing. May be of wood boards, plywood or other approved material.
DRIP EDGE – A non-corrosive material (usually of galvanized steel sheet metal, stainless steel, copper or
aluminum) used along the roof perimeter to allow water run-off to drip clear of the underlying
construction.
EAVE – The horizontal lower edge of a sloped roof.
Glossary 130
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
EAVE CLOSURE – A prefabricated EPDM rubber, metal, concrete or clay material or mortar to elevate
the first course of tiles and to enclose the cavity formed by the tiles at the eave.
FABRIC – A woven cloth of organic or inorganic filaments, threads or yarns. The prevailing types are
either cotton or fiberglass (also often referred to as “membrane”).
FASCIA – An ornamental board used to cover the rafter or truss end at the eave.
FELT – A flexible or semi-flexible sheet manufactured for use as an underlayment.
FISHMOUTH – A half-cylindrical or half-conical opening formed by an edge wrinkle in felt or roll
roofing materials.
FLANGE – The projecting edge of a rigid or semi-rigid component, such as a metal flashing flange,
skylight flange, flashing boot flange, etc.
FLASHING – A rigid or flexible material used to prevent water infiltration at roof projections and to
redirect water from walls, chimneys, valleys, etc.
FLASHING CEMENT – A premium grade of asphalt roofing cement (SEE ASPHALT ROOFING
CEMENT).
FLAT/LOW PROFILE TILE – Defined as those tiles with less than a 1/2 inch rise.
FOAM PADDY – A prepared polyurethane foam adhesive mixture used to adhere a roof tile to the
underlayment.
FRSA – Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association.
GABLE – The generally triangular section at the end of a pitched roof occupying the space between the
two slopes.
GALVANIZED – A zinc coating to prevent the rusting of steel or iron.
HEAD LAP – 1. The dimension by which the overlap of the nose end of a tile covers the head end of tile
in the row of tiles immediately under it. 2. The dimension by which a course of the underlayment overlaps
the preceding course.
HIGH PROFILE TILE – High profile shaped tiles are defined as those tiles having a rise to width ratio
greater than 0.20.
HIP – The inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping planes of the roof.
HIP AND/OR RIDGE BOARD -Wood or metal frame installed on a hip or ridge to provide a surface for
installa-tion of hip and ridge tiles.
HOT MOP SYSTEM – Refers to a multi-ply sub roof system where one or more plies are adhered to an
anchor sheet in hot asphalt.
Glossary 131
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
HURRICANE CLIPS – (SEE STORM CLIP)
INTERLOCKING TILE – Those tiles with a system of ribs or grooves enabling the lateral joining of
adjacent tiles in the same horizontal course, with the over lapping lock covering the under lapping lock.
“L” FLASHING – (SEE FLASHING)
MASTIC – (SEE ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT)
MEAN ROOF HEIGHT – The average elevation above grade height measured between the eave and
ridge of a roof area.
MEDIUM PROFILE TILE – Medium profile tiles are defined as those tiles having a rise to width ratio
less than or equal to 0.20.
MEMBRANE – (SEE FABRIC)
MINERAL SURFACED ROLL ROOFING – A prepared organic felt with granular surfaced finish,
minimum 74# per 100 square feet, commonly called 90# or No. 90.
MODIFIED BITUMEN – Are composite sheets consisting of a copolymer modified bitumen often
reinforced and sometimes surfaced with various types of fibers, foils and mats.
MORTAR PADDY – A prepared mortar mixture used to adhere a roof tile to the underlayment.
NINETY-POUND ROLL ROOFING (90#) – (SEE MINERAL SURFACED ROLL ROOFING)
NON-INTERLOCKING TILE – Those tiles without restrictive ribs, grooves or channels at the side laps.
NTRMA – National Tile Roof Manufacturers Association.
OPEN VALLEY – (SEE VALLEYS)
OVERHANG – That portion of the tile which extends beyond the eave.
PAN FLASHING – Similar in profile shape to an “L” flashing, but with a return designed/fabricated to
the outside horizontal edge. This type of flashing is used to contain water flow.
PHASED APPLICATION – The installation of a roof system or waterproofing system during two or more
set time intervals.
PITCH – The degree of roof incline expressed as a ratio of the rise, in feet to the span, in feet.
PLASTIC CEMENT – (SEE ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT)
PLY – The number of layers of roofing, i.e. one-ply, two-ply.
POINT-UP – The application of mortar to fill voids to various ends, sides and angles of a tile roof, which
are non structural in nature.
Glossary 132
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
RAFTER – The supporting framing member immediately beneath the deck, sloping from the ridge to the
wall plate.
RAKE – The outside edge of a sloped roof at the gable.
REGLET – A groove in a wall or other surface adjoining a roof surface for the use of installing a
counterflashing.
RIDGE – The uppermost horizontal external angle formed by the intersection on two sloping planes of the
roof.
RIDGEBOARD – (SEE HIP AND RIDGE BOARD)
SADDLE – A small structure that helps channel water to a point or around an obstruction. (SEE
CRICKET)
SATURATED FELT – A roofing felt that had been partially saturated with asphalt.
SELVAGE -Need Definition
SHEATHING – Exterior grade wood boards used as a roof deck material.
SIDE LAP – The width of the section of a tile containing the under lap.
SKIRT FLASHING – A rigid or flexible flashing used to redirect water from a preformed flashing onto
the tile surface.
SLOPE – The degree of roof incline expressed as a ratio of the rise in inches to the run in inches.
SLIPPAGE – Relative lateral movement of roll roofing installed on sloped roof often occurring due to not
having backnailed the roll roofing.
SOAKER FLASHING – A rigid or flexible flashing used at intersecting planes.
SOIL PIPE – A vent pipe that penetrates the plane of the roof.
STORM CLIPS – A device attached near or on the nose end of a tile to inhibit the uplift forces of wind.
STRAIGHT BOND METHOD – A method of installing tiles such that the side laps of the tiles are in
direct line to the preceding course.
SQUARE – A unit of roof measure equivalent to 100 square feet.
SWEAT SHEET – The first ply of underlayment installed the length of a valley prior to the application of
subsequent horizontal plies.
TRI – Tile Roofing Institute, formally the (RTI) Roof Tile Institute and the (NTRMA) National Tile
Roofing Manufacturers Association.
Glossary 133
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
TAPERED CANT STRIP – A beveled strip used for support behind a raised fascia or starter strip to
modify the angle at the eave.
TIN TAG – A small sheet metal disc through which a fastener is driven into the substrate to secure
underlayment.
UNDERLAYMENT – One or more water shedding layers of roofing applied to a sloped roof prior to the
installa-tion of roof tiles.
VALLEY – The internal angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
VALLEYS, TILE INSTALLATION METHODS:
CLOSED VALLEY – A method of installing roof tiles where tiles are cut, mitered and installed
to a close tight fit.
OPEN VALLEY – A method of installing roof tiles where tiles are cut, mitered and installed such
that a gap or trough is created to assist in the flow/drainage of water run-off.
VENT – Any outlet for air that protrudes through the roof deck.
WEEP HOLE – Openings in the eave closure and/or certain ridge conditions that allow for moisture
drainage and air ventilation.
Glossary 134
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005

FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 1 of 30
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
HIP AND RIDGE ATTACHMENT SECTIONS
OF THE
FRSA/TRI “CONCRETE AND CLAY ROOF TILE
INSTALLATION MANUAL” Fourth Edition
FOR USE BY
AUTHORITIES HAVING JURISDICTION
Submitted by the
FRSA/TRI TILE COMMITTEE
REVISED: August 3, 2005
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 2 of 30
Foreword
These recommendations were developed after surveying the recent hurricanes and with input from the
code, roofing and tile manufacturing community. They are designed to further clarify the current
installation procedures as they pertain to the specific roof tile systems (Mechanically fastened, Adhesiveset
or Mortar-set).
The following recommendations provide for only products approved by the FBC (Florida Building Code),
tested according to SSTD-11 and verified by third party independent FBC approved laboratories, to
determine the wind uplift limitations of the various hip and ridge attachment methods or by installation
methods currently recognized in the HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone) section of the FBC.
A joint sub-committee consisting of members from the FRSA (Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air
Conditioning Contractors Association, Inc) and the TRI (Tile Roofing Institute) drafted these
recommendations and they were approved by consensus by the FRSA Roof Tile Committee.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 3 of 30
Table of Contents
1. Introduction…………………………………………………………… ………………… 4
1.1 Purpose……………………………………………………………………..……… 4
1.2 Scope…………………………………………………………………………….… 4
1.3 Basis for Requirements……………………………………………………………. 4
1.4 Applicable Documents………………………………………………………..…… 5
1.5 Acronyms, Definitions and General Assumptions ………………………………… 5
2. General Information……………………………………………………………………… 6
2.1 Hip and Ridge Attachment Information…………………………………………… 6
2.2 Approval Ratings and Limitations…………………………………………….…… 7
3. General Requirements……………………………………………………………………. 7
3.1 Review of Documents………………………………………………………………. 7
3.2 Markings……………………………………………………………………………. 8
3.3 Manufacturer’s Installation Instructions……………………………………….…… 8
3.4 Qualified Applicator Program………………………………………………….…… 8
4. Hip and Ridge Attachments………………………………………………………….…… 8
4.1 Hip and Ridge Attachment descriptions……………………………………….…… 8
4.2 Field Cut Roof Tile Requirements…………………………………………….……. 9
4.3 Hip and Ridge/Field Tile System Limitations……………………………………… 9
5. Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile…………………………………………….. 11
5.1 Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile – Structural Support Options………… 11
5.2 Weather Blocking Options…………………………………………………………. 13
5.3 Hip and/or Ridge Starter Tile Attachment…………………………………………. 18
5.4 Hip and Ridge Tiles Mechanically Attached to Structural Support……….………. 19
6. Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System………………………………………… 19
6.1 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System- Structural Support Options…….. 19
6.2 Adhesive Weather Blocking System Options………………………………………. 20
6.3 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment………………………………. 22
6.4 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment……………………………………… 22
7. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System…………………….……….……… 24
7.1 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System………………………..………. 24
7.2 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment.…………………………..……. 24
7.3 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment.……………………………….………. 26
Appendix A: Hip and Ridge Board Attachment Instructions – Table 11……………….. 30
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 4 of 30
1. Introduction
1.1. Purpose
1.1.1. This document is to be used as a supplement to the FRSA/TRI “Concrete and Clay Roof
Tile Installation Manual” – Fourth Edition, specifically the sections of Systems 1, 2, 3 and
4, pertaining to hip and ridge attachment. Recent wind events have established the need to
provide greater attention to hip and ridge attachment systems. In order to prevent similar
occurrences, all hip and ridge attachment systems must be tested to show compliance to the
wind loads set forth by the FBC. The test results will establish the mean roof height
limitations for each of the hip and ridge attachment systems. The prescriptive method of
hip and ridge applications will no longer be accepted.
1.2 Scope
1.2.1 These recommendations set the requirements for the hip and ridge attachment for Systems
1, 2, 3 and 4 of the FRSA/TRI “Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual” -
Fourth Edition.
1.2.2 These recommendations and any other newly developed recommendation shall be tested
under laboratory conditions according to SSTD-11 to determine the wind uplift resistance
of the specific hip and ridge attachment system. An additional tile factor of 2-to-1 above
that specified in SSTD-11 or TAS 101 shall be applied in determining the ‘allowable
overturning moment’ or ‘attachment resistance expressed as a moment (Mf)’ to account
for any interdependence hip and ridge attachment methods used.
1.2.3 The wind resistance performance of the hip and ridge system depends in part on its ability
to resist the uplift forces at the perimeter edge and the attachment of the adjoining field
tile.
1.2.4 These recommendations are not intended to determine which hip and ridge system is more
or less suitable for the user of the product. Conditions, under which the hip and ridge
attachment system is used, vary widely. It is the ability of the manufacturer and the user to
determine the suitability of the hip and ridge system for the intended job location.
1.2.5 These recommendations are not intended to determine which hip and ridge system is more
or less suitable as a weather blocking system or the system’s ability to restrict or prevent
the infiltration of air or water into the tile system. It is the responsibility of the user to
determine the most effective weather blocking system for the intended job location.
1.3 Basis for Requirements
1.3.1 These recommendations are based on experience, research and testing and/or the
standards of other organizations. The advice of manufacturers, users, and trade
associations was also considered.
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Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 5 of 30
1.3.2 These recommendations prohibit component substitution without proper laboratory testing
and a FBC Product Approval.
1.3.3 The recommendations reflect tests and practices used to examine characteristics of hip and
ridge attachment. These recommendations are intended as guides and strict conformity is
not always mandatory. Hip and ridge attachment systems having characteristics not
anticipated by these recommendations may be satisfactory if performance equal or
superior to that required by these recommendations is demonstrated.
1.4 Applicable Documents
1.4.1 FRSA/TRI ‘Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual’ – Fourth Edition
1.4.2 (FBC) Florida Building Code
1.4.3 Chapter 9B-72 – Department of Community Affairs – Florida Building Commission
1.4.4 SSTD-11 – ‘SBCCI Test Standard for Determining Wind Resistance of Concrete or Clay
Roof Tiles’
1.4.5 (TAS) Testing Application Standard 101 – 95 – ‘Test Procedure for Static Uplift
Resistance of Mortar or Adhesive Set Tile Systems’
1.5 Acronyms, Definitions and General Assumptions
1.5.1 FBC – Florida Building Code.
1.5.2 HVHZ – High Velocity Hurricane Zone of the FBC.
1.5.3 FRSA – Florida Roofing, Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors Association, Inc.
1.5.4 TRI – Tile Roofing Institute, formally the (RTI) Roof Tile Institute and the (NTRMA)
National Tile Roofing Manufacturers Association.
1.5.5 Code Approved – Any product that has FBC Product Approval for that specific
application.
1.5.6 Structural support – Any (wood, metal, or other code approved) product used as a means
to transfer the loads of an attached hip and ridge tile to the substrate.
1.5.7 Job-site mix – Any non pre-bagged mortar meeting ASTM C-270 for cement, sand and
proportioning mixed at a job site and not bagged under the quality control of the mortar
manufacture.
1.5.8 Pre-bagged Mortar – Any mortar where the proportions are mixed and bagged under the
quality control of the mortar manufacturer and has been issued a FBC Product Approval,
tested to SSTD-11.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 6 of 30
1.5.9 FRSA/TRI Manual – The FRSA/TRI ‘Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual’ –
Fourth Edition.
1.5.10 Roof Tile Adhesive – A roof tile adhesive product that has been issued FBC Product
Approval, tested to SSTD-11.
1.5.11 2” x (H) – a nominal 2” wide by any height (H) necessary to accommodate and properly
install the attachment of the hip and ridge tiles. The height of the structural support will
vary due to tile profile and the pitch of the roof.
2. General Information
2.1. Hip and Ridge Attachment System Information
2.1.1. Hip and ridge attachment systems are used for weather blocking at the terminations of two
adjoining roof planes. Experience has shown that adequate attachment of the hip and ridge
tile systems is extremely important to maintaining weather blocking and to minimize
ancillary missiles from being created which may occur when hip and ridge tiles impact the
field roof tile. Adequately secured field tiles may be vulnerable to wind damage if the hip
and ridge tile system is improperly installed. To achieve the specified wind uplift results,
follow the hip and ridge application procedures, which shall be representative of the tested
assembly.
2.1.2. Hip and ridge attachment system failures occur when wind uplift or pressure exerts forces
beyond the resistance strength of the hip and ridge attachment and/or of the structural
support to the substrate. When the hip and ridge tile and/or the adjoining field tile are not
properly secured, the resulting prying action and uplift forces may cause the hip and ridge
attachment to fail. When this occurs the roof tile system becomes vulnerable and may
cause ancillary damage and may subject the building to additional rain and/or additional
roof tile securement damage.
2.1.3. Hip and ridge tile systems must adequately terminate the adjoining planes. There are three
basic types of weather blocking methods used in Florida, foil-faced self-adhered
membrane, adhesive and mortar:
Foil-faced self-adhered Membrane System is typically used when a wood hip and ridge
frame has been secured to the substrate, the foiled backed membrane is applied in a step
fashion sealing to both sides of the adjoining field tile planes prior to the mechanically
attachment to the wood frame. It can also be used on a metal hip and ridge frame where
mechanical attachment of the hip and ridge tile is an acceptable attachment method. Can
be used with all roof tile systems.
Adhesive is used to weather block the entire cavity of the adjoining planes of field tile to
the sides of the structural support. Can be used with all roof tile systems.
Mortar (pre-bagged or job-site mix) is used to weather block the longitudinal edges of
the hip and ridge tiles to the adjoining field tile roof planes. Can be used with all tile
systems.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 7 of 30
2.1.4 Hip and Ridge tiles must be adequately attached to transfer the loads to the substrate.
There are three basic attachment methods of the hip and ridge tiles used in Florida,
mechanical attachment, adhesive-set and mortar- set attachment systems:
Mechanical Attachment is the securement of the hip/ridge tiles with nails or screws at the
head of the tile in addition to a FBC approved adhesive at the hip/ridge tile overlaps.
Adhesive-set is the securement of the hip/ridge tiles to a structural support with a full bed
of adhesive or other FBC approved paddy method.
Mortar-set is the securement of the hip/ridge tiles along both longitudinal edges of the
adjoining planes of field tile embedded in a full bed of pre-bagged FBC approved
mortar only.
2.1.5 Hip and Ridge tile attachment methods are also categorized by whether or not the
attachment system is an independent attachment system or an interdependent attachment
system. An example of an independent attachment is when the hip/ridge tile is attached in
a full bed of adhesive or mortar. An interdependent attachment system is when the load is
being applied to more than one tile. An example is a mechanical fastener used at the head
of the hip/ridge tile and adhesive used at the overlap joining both tiles together. When the
load is being applied to the hip/ridge tile, the resistance is shared with the nail installed at
the head of the tile and the adhesive at the hip/ridge tile overlap, which is transferring the
load to the nail of the previously installed hip tile.
2.2. Approval Ratings and Limitations
2.2.1. The uplift resistance values achieved from the laboratory testing shall determine the mean
roof height limitation of the hip and ridge attachment system.
2.2.2. The resistance values for mechanical fasteners shall be posted in the roof tile
manufacturers FBC Product Approval.
2.2.3. The resistance values for adhesive-set system shall be posted in the roof tile adhesive
manufacturers FBC Product Approval.
2.2.4. The resistance values for mortar-set system shall be posted in the roof tile mortar
manufacturers FBC Product Approval.
3. General Requirements
3.1. Review of Documents
3.1.1. The hip and ridge attachment system shall be installed according to these
recommendations and confirmed by test data and/or manufacturers installation
recommendation if the system test indicates otherwise or installed according to the HVHZ.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 8 of 30
3.1.2. All hip and ridge attachment systems, with uplift resistance values and limitations shall be
included in the FBC Product Approval or installed according to the HVHZ, with the same
limitations applied.
3.2 Markings
3.2.1 The packaging for the hip and ridge attachment products shall bear the manufacturer’s
name, model number or trade name and the FBC Product Approval number.
3.3 Manufacturer’s Installation Instructions
3.3.1 The manufacturer shall provide all the necessary application instructions, printed
materials, and other assistance to the installer to ensure proper installation as required to
produce the performance as tested for the FBC Product Approval. These instructions shall
include uplift resistance values and clearly state any limitations required.
3.4 Qualified Applicator Program
3.4.1 The adhesive-set and mortar-set manufacturers shall provide a joint qualified applicator
program.
4. Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment Systems
NOTE: This document was written for projects utilizing hip and ridge tile. For mitered hip and
ridge applications refer to the tile manufacturers recommendations.
4.1 Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment Descriptions
4.1.1 There are four roof tile installation systems currently listed in FRSA/TRI ‘Concrete and
Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual, System One, System Two, System Three and System
Four ‘A’ & ‘B’. Only System Three and System Four ‘B’ allows for the use of a FBC
approved pre-bagged mortar to attach hip and ridge tiles without the use of a wood,
metal or other structural support.
The three (3) most common methods for installing hip and ridge tile are mechanically
fastened, Adhesive-set and mortar-set attachment systems:
1) Mechanically Fastened Hip and Ridge Attachment System – This attachment
system consists of installing typically a wood hip and ridge frame (or other
structural support equal to or superior to resist the pullout of mechanical fastener)
secured to the substrate according to the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile
Installation Manual or the requirements of the HVHZ requirements of the (FBC)
Florida Building Code, or having a FBC product approval meeting the
requirements of the FBC, specifically rule 9B-72. The weather blocking
mechanism is either accomplished with adhesive tested for a weather block, prebagged
or job site mix mortar or with a step flashing using a foil-faced self-adhered
membrane. The hip/ridge tiles are mechanically attached to the structural support
with mechanical fasteners and a FBC code-approved roof tile adhesive at the
hip/ridge tile overlaps.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 9 of 30
2) Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System – This attachment system
consists of installing a wood or metal hip and ridge frame (or other structural
support) secured to the substrate according to the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay
Roof Tile Installation Manual or to the requirements of the HVHZ requirements of
the (FBC) Florida Building Code, or having a FBC product approval meeting the
requirements of the FBC, specifically rule 9B-72. The weather blocking
mechanism is either accomplished with mortar or with a FBC code-approved roof
tile adhesive or other FBC code-approved weather blocking material, designed and
tested specifically for roof tile weather blocking applications. The hip/ridge tiles are
attached to the structural support with a FBC approved adhesive according to the
adhesive manufacturers recommendations based on the FBC approved independent
laboratory testing or according to the requirements of the HVHZ requirements of
the FBC. For slopes over 7:12, additional securement at the hip may be necessary
to prevent tile movement until adhesive is cured.
3) Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System – This attachment system consists
of installing hip and ridge tiles into a bed of FBC approved mortar tested
specifically for hip and ridge tile applications and meet the requirements of the
(FBC) Florida Building Code, specifically rule 9B-72. The mortar is used as the
attachment and waterproofing mechanism. For slopes over 7:12, additional
securement at the hip may be necessary to prevent tile movement until mortar is
cured.
4.2 Field Cut Roof Tile Requirements
4.2.1 All field cut tiles (two tiles on each side of hip) and the top course of ridge must be
attached to the substrate with code-approved adhesive, code-approved mortar or
mechanical fasteners and adhesive. (See Drawings 1 and 2). In situations where the ridge
course of tile has been cut, the field cut tile and the full tile course below the cut tile must
be attached to the substrate as well. This requirement is designed to minimize any dynamic
movement of the field cut tiles, at the most stringent zones of the roof, which may occur
during a high wind event such as hurricanes. (See Drawings 3).
4.2.2 The minimum head lap when installing the hip and ridge tiles is 2”, as stated in the
FRSA/TRI manual. It may be necessary to increase the head lap to cover exposed hip/ridge
tile fastening holes or adhesive. Cover exposed fasteners with a UV resistant sealant.
4.3 Hip and Ridge/Field Tile System Limitations
4.3.1 There are three attachment methods for securing hip and ridge tile, mechanically attached,
adhesive attached, and Mortar attached. These methods can only be used on field tile
attachment systems as follows:
Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tiles – Can be used on field tile attachment
Systems One, Two, Three and Four, as listed in the FRSA/TRI Manual.
Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tiles – Can be used on field tile attachment Systems One,
Two, Three and Four, as listed in the FRSA/TRI Manual.
Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tiles – Can be used on field tile attachment Systems Three and
Four ‘B’ only, as listed in the FRSA/TRI Manual.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 10 of 30
NOTE: Use only the hip/ridge attachment system that will meet or exceed the tile/wind loads set
forth by the FBC.
Drawing 1
Drawing 2
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Attach two tile each side of hip and one top ridge course to the underlayment with code
approved roof tile adhesive, code approved mortar or mechanically attach with fasteners
and code approved adhesive at the tile overlaps. When using adhesive or mortar to attach
tile to the underlayment the underlayment must be approved for adhesive-set or mortar-set
applications.
Flat/Low, Medium or Crossbond Tile Applications
x x x x x
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High Profile Tile or Straight Bond Tile Application
Attach two tile each side of hip and one top ridge course to the underlayment with code
approved roof tile adhesive, code approved mortar or mechanically attach with fasteners
and code approved adhesive at the tile overlaps. When using adhesive or mortar to attach
tile to the underlayment the underlayment must be approved for adhesive-set or mortar-set
applications.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 11 of 30
Drawing 3
5. Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile
5.1. Mechanically Attached Hip and Ridge Tile – Structural Support Options
5.1.1. Determine how you want to attach the structural support to the substrate. The three most
common methods to attach the structural support (typically wood) to the substrate are:
1) Metal Brackets – (See Drawing 4)
2) Metal Straps – (See Drawing 5)
3) Code-approved Adhesive – (See Drawing 6)
5.1.2 Attachment of the wood hip and ridge frame to the substrate must be according to Table
11 of the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual or according to the
HVHZ requirements of the FBC. (See Appendix A for copy of the FRSA/TRI Manual
Table 11).
x x
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Where field cut tiles are used at the ridge, attach the cut tile and full tile each side of top ridge course
to the underlayment with code approved roof tile adhesive, code approved mortar or mechanically
attach with fasteners and code approved adhesive at the tile overlaps. When using adhesive or
mortar to attach the tile to the underlayment the underlayment must be approved for adhesive-set
or mortar-set applications.
Cut Pieces at Ridge Line
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
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FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 12 of 30
Drawing 4
Drawing 5
Install according to Table 11 of the
FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay
Roof Tile InstallationManual
or
the recommendations of HVHZ
of the Florida Building Code
MechanicallyAttachedWoodHip and
Ridge BoardUsingMetal Brackets.
11/2″
Option 1
3/4″
Option 2
1″
Option 3
Install according to Table 11 of the
FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay
Roof Tile InstallationManual
or
the recommendations of HVHZ
of the Florida Building Code
MechanicallyAttachedWoodHip and
Ridge Board using StrappingMethod
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 13 of 30
Drawing 6
5.2 Weather Blocking Options
5.2.1. After completion of the structural support attachment choose the desired weather
blocking method for the specific attachment system. The three most common
weather blocking methods are:
1) Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane Weather Blocking System
2) FBC Approved Adhesive Tested as a Weather Blocking System
3) (Pre-bagged or Jobsite Mix) Mortar Hip/Ridge Weather Blocking System
5.2.2. Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane as a Weather Block.
5.2.2.1. This system uses self-adhered membrane as weather block. No mortar is used
along the longitudinal edges of the tile. Mortar can be used at the hip/ridge,
hip/valley, ridge/valley, and ridge/gable (etc) junctions as a weather block.
5.2.2.2. Install foil-faced self-adhered membrane over hip/ridge frame (foil side up) in
a step flashing method per membrane manufacturer’s recommendations and
seal to field tile. (See Drawings 7 &
5.2.2.3. Care should be taken to ensure the self-adhered membrane is sealed to the tile
surface. Ensure hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley and hip/eave junctions are
sealed to prevent water entry of those areas.
Install according the recommendations
of HVHZ of the Florida Building Code
and the adhesive manufacturer
Wood Hip and Ridge Board
Attached with Code-approved adhesive
. .. . ..
. .
…… … ..
.. . …………. … . .. .. … . …….. … … .
……… .. .. ..
… ..
Underlayment approved
for adhesive applications
Code – approved
adhesive
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 14 of 30
Drawing 7
Drawing 8
Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane Used as a Weather Block
Foil-faced
self-adhered
step flashing
(foil facing up)
Structural
support
. ….. … ……
Fasten with nail or screw
to structural support
(wood shown) Install code-approved adhesive at
hip/ridge tile overlaps
Fasten structural support
with adhesive or metal straps
FRSA/TRI Manual or the
HVHZ of the FBC.
Tile overlap
Foiled back
self-adhered
membrane
… . .
. ..
. . .
.
Foil-faced Self-adhered Membrane Used as a Weather Block
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 15 of 30
5.2.3 Adhesive Used as a Weather Block
5.2.3.1 This system uses adhesive as weather blocking system. There is no mortar
placed along the longitudinal edges of the hip and ridge tile. Adhesive is
placed where the field tile abuts to the structural support. A bead of adhesive
is placed parallel to the hip and/or ridge board tile junction to act as a weather
block and is applied prior to the attachment of the hip and ridge tile.
5.2.3.2 Install adhesive to seal all voids between the tile and the structural support
according to the adhesive manufacturers recommendations. Care should be
taken to ensure all areas are sealed with adhesive to prevent water entry.
(See Drawings 9 & 10)
Drawing 9
..
Adhesive used as weather blocking
Structural
support
………… ……..
………………………………………………………………..
………….. ……..
..
………. ……..
..
………….. .. ……
….
..
…….. ……………. ………………….
……………………………………..
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..
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..
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..
..
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..
.. ..
..
..
….
……
……
..
..
..
Adhesive sealing
tile to structural
support.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 16 of 30
Drawing 10
Drawing 11
…. .. . … . . . .
… .
. . . . . . ….. … ……
Fasten with nail or screw to
structrual support (wood shown)
Install code approved adhesive at
hip/ridge tile overlaps
Embed tile into mortar bed
both sides of ridge or pack
mortar into void after hip
and ridge tiles are installed
Fasten structural support
with adhesive or metal
strapsaccording to the
FRSA/TRI Manual or
the HVHZ of the FBC.
Point mortar to
match tile finish
Tile overlap
Attaching Hip/Ridge tile using Mortar as Weather Blocking
..
….. … ……
Fasten with nail or screw min.
3/4″ into structural support. Install code approved
adhesive at hip/ridge
Fasten frame according tile overlaps
FRSA/TRI Manual or the
HVHZ of the FBC.
Seal tile with FBC
approved adhesive
to structural support.
Tile overlap
Hip/Ridge Tile Attachment Using Adhesive as Weather Block
……… . .
……………………..
..
……..
.. ……………………
..
..
….
..
..
Mortar to seal
gable end
..
…………………….. …………………………
Structural support ..
……..
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 17 of 30
Drawing 12
10″
Lap previous paddy 3″
Mortar Hip and Ridge Weather Blocking System.
10″ Mason’s trowel
full of mortar
Drawing 13
Pre-bagged or job site mixed
mortar may be used for
weather blocking areas only.
When used as a structural
attachment only FBC approved
pre-bagged mortar is allowed.
Mechanically Fastened Hip and Ridge
Tile using Mortar as a weather block
Pack with mortar and
point to match tile finish
…… ……..
..
……………………….
………………….
….
……..
Attach with mechanical fastener
and approved roof tile adhesive
prior to packing with mortar.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 18 of 30
5.3. Hip and/or Ridge Starter Tile Attachment
5.3.1 Starting at the eave, place hip starter tile over wood hip frame, positioning in the center of
the structural support. Secure the head of the starter tile to the structural support with a
mechanical fastener conforming to the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation
Manual.
5.3.2 Care must be taken to properly secure the first (starting) hip and ridge tile of the hip/ridge
attachment system. Additional securement at the hip starter tile installed at the eave and at
the starting ridge tile installed at either the ridge/hip or ridge/gable junctions are necessary
to prevent the tile from overturning during a high wind event.
5.3.3 Typically the structural support is kept 6” to 12” back from the eave to allow for the
aesthetic placement of mortar used as a weather block and closing off the hip end at the
eave. It may be necessary to extend or cantilever the structural support toward the eave to
ensure adequate support for the hip tile attachment. (See Drawing 25) All hip or ridge
starter tile must be secured at the both ends of the tile either with mechanical fasteners or
adhesive. Although this section mentions hip starter tiles, the same is true for the starting
ridge tile. Some options are listed below:
1) Drill a 3/16”hole within lower one-third of the tile length, from the eave end of
the hip starter tile. Secure the eave end of the starter tile with a mechanical
fastener embedding into the structural support, a minimum of ”. Seal the head
of the fastener with a UV resistant sealant. Adhesive may also be used in lieu of
a fastener at the starting end of the tile as long as the structural member has
been cantilevered to provide a base for adhesive attachment.
2) Prior to installing the hip starter tile, apply a code-approved roof tile adhesive
along the entire length of the hip starter tile according to the adhesive
manufacturers installation instructions. Secure the head of the tile with
mechanical fastener embedding into structural support, a minimum of ”.
3) Prior to installing the hip starter tile, place a full bed of only FBC codeapproved
pre-bagged mortar according to the mortar manufacturers
installations instructions under the entire hip starter tile. Within 2 minutes of
placing the bed of mortar, embed the entire hip starter into the solid bed of
mortar. Secure the head of the tile with mechanical fastener embedding into
structural support, a minimum of ” . Point mortar to desired finish. When
using this mortar method for securing the starter hip tile, ensure
underlayment is approved for use with mortar-set applications.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 19 of 30
5.4 Hip and Ridge Tiles Mechanically Attached to Structural Support
5.4.1 Prior to installing subsequent hip/ridge tiles place a minimum 4” to 5” bead of FBC
approved roof tile adhesive along the head of the hip starter tile. Install the next hip
tile, centering over the wood frame and lapping the starter tile a minimum of 2”.
(See Drawing 8). If the overlap is restricted by product design, refer to the tile
manufacturers installation instructions. Continue in same manner working from the
lowest point toward the highest point of the roof. At intersecting junctions (i.e.
hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley) cut tile to form a solid fit and ensure the first
and the last hip/ridge tile is securely fastened. Any exposed fasteners must be
sealed with a UV resistant sealant.
5.4.2 Optional: Prior to installing the tiles at these adjoining junctions, place a full bed
(filling entire cavity) of FBC approved pre-bagged mortar under the entire
adjoining hip/ridge tile. Embed the entire hip/ridge tile into the solid bed of mortar.
Point mortar to desired finish. Fasten as mentioned above. Use the three methods
under Note 5 above as guidelines and/or options at these junctions.
6.0 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System
6.1. Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Attachment System – Structural Support Options
6.1.1 Adhesive-set hip and ridge tiles can be installed directly to a structural support. The
most common structural supports are:
1) Wood Hip and Ridge Frame (See Drawings 4, 5, & 6)
2) Metal Hip and Ridge Frame (Metal Channel) (See Drawing 14)
6.1.2. Determine how you want to attach the wood hip and ridge frame to the substrate. The three
most common methods to attach the wood hip and ridge frame to the substrate are:
1) Metal Brackets – (See Drawing 4)
2) Metal Straps – (See Drawing 5)
3) FBC approved Adhesive – (See Drawings 15 & 17)
6.1.3. Attachment of the wood or metal hip and ridge frame to the substrate must be according to
Table 11 of the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual or according
to the HVHZ requirements of the FBC. (See Appendix A for a copy of the FRSA/TRI
Table 11).
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 20 of 30
Drawing 14
6.2 Adhesive Weather Blocking System Options
6.2.1 Once the attachment method has been completed a choice has to be made on the
weather blocking method. The two most common methods are:
1) FBC Approved Adhesive Tested as a Weather Blocking System –
(See Drawings 15 and 17)
2) (Pre-bagged or Jobsite Mix) Mortar Weather Blocking System –
(See Drawings 11,12 and 13)
6.2.2. Adhesive Used as a Weather Block
6.2.2.1.This system uses adhesive as weather blocking system. There is no mortar
placed along the longitudinal edges of the hip and ridge tile. Adhesive is placed
where the field tile abuts to the structural support. A bead of adhesive is placed
parallel to the hip and/or ridge board tile junction to act as a weather block and
is applied prior to the attachment of the hip and ridge tile.
6.2.2.2.Install adhesive to seal all voids between the field tile and the structural support
according to the adhesive manufacturers recommendations. Care should be
taken to ensure all areas are sealed with adhesive to prevent water entry.
(See Drawing 15)
Install according to Table 21 of the
FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay
Roof Tile Installation Manual
or
the recommendations of HVHZ
of the Florida Building Code
Metal Hip and Ridge Frame
Seal nail penetration
with Plastic Cement
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 21 of 30
Drawing 15
6.2.3 Mortar Used as a Weather Block
6.2.3.1 This system uses mortar as weather blocking system and for aesthetics. A full
bed of mortar is placed along the longitudinal edges of the hip and ridge tile
either during the application of the hip and ridge tiles or may be packed in
after the hip and ridge tiles are installed and the adhesive has cured. The hip
and ridge tiles are adhesive-set to the structural support in addition to the
mortar.
6.2.3.2 Install mortar to seal all voids between the field tile and the hip/ridge tile
according to the mortar manufacturers recommendations. Care should be taken
to ensure enough mortar is used, to create a wedge, to eliminate the potential
of the mortar from dislodging from the hip/ridge and field tile junction. Ensure
areas are sealed to prevent water entry. After mortar is packed into place point
mortar to desired finish. (See Drawings 11, 12 & 13)
..
Adhesive used as weather blocking
Structural
support
………… ……..
………………………………………………………………..
………….. ……..
..
………. ……..
………….. .. ……..
….
..
…….. ……………. ………………….
……………………………………..
……….
………………..
..
…………..
……
……..
….
…………………………………………
..
……
……
..
……………………
……
..
..
……
..
….
..
..
….
……
……
..
..
..
Adhesive sealing
tile to structural
support.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 22 of 30
6.3. Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment
6.3.1 Starting at the eave, and prior to installing the hip starter, place a bead or paddy of FBC
approved roof tile adhesive parallel to and on top of the wood or metal frame according to
the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. An alternate method is to place the adhesive in
the center of the underside of the hip/ridge tile, turn hip/ridge tile over and carefully place
and center the tile over the structural support. The method of the paddy placement
location must be representative of how the adhesive manufacturer tested the hip and ridge
attachment method.
6.3.2 At the eave, place first hip (starter) tile over the metal or wood hip frame, positioning the
tile in the center of the frame. Install the hip starter tile over the adhesive paddy or bead.
Fasten hip tiles when the roof slope is greater than 7:12. The fasteners hold the tiles in
place until the adhesive can cure.
6.3.3 Optional: Prior to installing subsequent hip tiles, Place a minimum 4” bead of codeapproved
roof tile adhesive along the head of the hip starter tile.
6.4 Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment
6.4.1 Install the next hip tile, centering over the frame and lapping the starter tile a minimum of
2”. (See Drawings 16, 17 & 18). If the overlap is restricted by product design, refer to the
tile manufacturers installation instructions. Continue in same manner working from the
lowest point toward the highest point of the roof. At intersecting junctions (i.e. hip/ridge,
ridge/gable, ridge/valley) cut tile to form a solid fit and ensure the first and the last
hip/ridge tile is securely fastened. Any exposed fasteners must be sealed with a UV
resistant sealant.
6.4.2 Optional: Prior to installing the tiles at these adjoining junctions, place a full bed (filling
entire cavity) of FBC approved pre-bagged mortar under the entire adjoining hip/ridge
tile. Embed the entire hip/ridge tile into the solid bed of mortar. Point mortar to desired
finish. Fasten as mentioned above. Use the three methods under section 5.3.3 above as
guidelines and/or options at these junctions.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 23 of 30
Drawing 16
Drawing 17
..
….. … ……
For slopes greater the 7:12
fasten with nail or screw
to structural support Optional: Install code approved
Fasten structural support adhesive at hip/ridge tile overlaps
accordingFRSA/TRI
Manual or the HVHZ
of the FBC.
Seal field tile to
metal or wood
frame with adhesive
Tile overlap
Adhesive-set Hip/Ridge Tile Using Adhesive as Weather Blocking
……… . .
……………………..
..
……..
.. ……………………
..
..
….
..
..
Mortar to seal
gable end
..
…………………….. …………………………
……
……………………………………………………….
……………………………………………………….
Install code-approved adhesive
on top of structural support
according to adhesive
manufacturers instructions
…. .. …. . . . .
… .
. . . . . . ….. … ……
Embed tile into
mortar bed both
sides of hip/ridge or
pack mortar into
void after hip and
ridge tiles are installed
and adhesive has cured
Point mortar to
match tile finish
Tile overlap
Attaching Hip/Ridge Tile with Adhesive Using Mortar as Weather Blocking
For slopes greater the 7:12
fasten with nail or screw to
structural support Optional: Install code approved
adhesive at hip/ridge tile overlaps
Structural support according
FRSA/TRI Manual or the
HVHZ of the FBC
(metal shown)
………………………………………………
….
………………………………………………….
Install code-approved adhesive
on top of structural support
according to adhesive
manufacturers Product Approval or
the HVHZ of the FBC
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 24 of 30
Drawing 18
7. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System
7.1. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment limitations
7.1.1 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment System can only be used with field tile
attachment Systems Three and Four ‘B’ and can only be installed with pre-bagged
FBC approved (specifically according to Rule 9B-72) mortar tested to determine
the limitations of the product application.
7.2. Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Attachment
7.2.1 Prior to installing any hip/ridge tile, a full solid bed of mortar is placed at the eave
end of the hip or ridge starter tile and parallel to the hip and/or ridge structural
support under where the longitudinal edge of the hip/ridge tile is to be placed. (See
Drawings 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 & 24) For Medium, High or Two-piece Barrel
profiled tiles, it will be necessary to stack 10” trowel full of mortar on top of each
other in the pan portions of the tile, to get the proper height of the mortar to
properly embed the hip/ridge tile 1 ” into the mortar bed. (See Drawing 22)
Pre-bagged or job site mixed
mortar may be used for
weather blocking areas only.
When used as a structural
attachment only FBC approved
pre-bagged mortar is allowed.
Adhesive-set Hip and Ridge Tile using Mortar as a Weather Block
Embed hip/ridge tile into
mortar or pack with mortar and
point to match tile finish
…… ..
……
..
……………………….
……
..
…………..
….
……..
For slopes greater than 7:12
attach with a nail or screw
………………
..
..
..
…………..
..
..
….
….
..
…….. ……..
.. ..
..
…. ………… …………….
Adhesive used to attach
tile and structural support
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 25 of 30
Drawing 19
…………………………………………………….. ………………………………………………..
….
.. …… …. …………..
…………………………
……………………………………………………….
Stack an additional trowel(s) full of mortar in the
pan portion of the tile, as needed, to get the
proper height of mortar to properly embed the
hip/ridge tile 1 1/2″ into the mortar bed.
Proper Height of Mortar Bed
7.2.2. Apply enough FBC approved mortar to fill the entire hip/ridge starter tile cavity
with mortar. Apply the remaining hip/ridge tile per mortar manufacturer’s
instructions. Care should be made to minimize the placing of mortar too far in front
of laying tile to minimize mortar dehydration.
7.2.3. Position hip starter tile over the center of the hip junction. Embed the hip starter tile
into the full bed of mortar. Some mortar will be forced out of the cavity. Remove
excess mortar and point to desired finish.
7.2.4. Care must be taken to embed the tile into the mortar a minimum of 1 ”. (Do not
just fill the voids of the tile edges with mortar). The packing of mortar into the
cavities between the hip/ridge tiles and the field tile are not allow for the structural
attachment of the hip and ridge tiles. The tile must be embedded into the mortar.
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 26 of 30
Drawing 20
7.3 Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Tile Attachment
7.3.1 Position and install the next hip tile, centering over the hip junction and lapping the
starter tile a minimum of 2”. Embed the tile into the mortar bed a minimum of 1
”. (See Drawing 22). If the overlap is restricted by product design, refer to the
tile manufacturers installation instructions. Continue in same manner working from
the lowest point toward the highest point of the roof. At intersecting junctions (i.e.
hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley) cut tile to form a solid fit and ensure the first
and the last hip/ridge tile is securely fastened. Any exposed fasteners must be
sealed with a UV resistant sealant.
7.3.2 At all junctions (i.e. hip/ridge, ridge/gable, ridge/valley etc.) fill all voids with
mortar. Prior to installing the junction tiles a bed of mortar must be placed to
minimize any cracking of the mortar. These cut or mitered tile must be embedded
into the mortar. Point mortar to desired finish.
7.3.3 Optional: The entire cavity of the hip and ridge tile may be filled a bed of mortar
in lieu of longitudinal beads placed parallel to the hip and ridge junction.
(See Drawing 20)
Use only FBC approved mortar that has
been tested according to ICC – SSTD-11
and has data substantiating compliance.
Hip and Ridge Starter Tile Embedment into Mortar
Point to match tile finish
For the starter hip or ridge tile
fill entire cavity with mortar
………………………………………………………….. ………..
……..
…. …. ….
…………………………
…….. ..
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 27 of 30
Drawing 21
Drawing 22
Embed hip/ridge minimum 1 1/2″ into
3″ bed of mortar prior to pointing up
mortar for a finished appearance.Do
not pack mortar into cavity.
1 1/2″ 3″ 1 1/2″
Use only FBC approved pre-bagged mortar that has
been tested according to ICC – SSTD-11
and has data substantiating compliance.
Hip and Ridge Embedment into Mortar
10″
Continue in same manner lapping
previously applied mortar paddy 3″
Apply a minimum 10″ trowel full of mortar
parallel to hip or ridge
Mortar-set Hip and Ridge Attachment
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 28 of 30
Drawing 23
Drawing 24
Use only FBC approved pre-bagged
mortar tested according to ICC – SSTD-11
with data substantiating compliance.
Hip and Ridge Embedment into Mortar
Point to mortar to
desired finish
…………………. ………………
…….. ..
…. .. …. . . . .
… .
. . . . . . ….. … ……
Embed tile minimum a
1 1/2″ into mortar bed
Point mortar to
desired finish
Tile overlap
Attaching Hip/Ridge Tile with FBC Product Approved Mortar Only
.. .. .. .. .. .. …… .. .. .. .. .. .. .. …. .. .. …. ..
.. …… .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ….
.. …. .. .. .. .. ….
.. .. .. .. .. …. .. .. …. …… .. .. .. .. .. ..
.. .. .. ..
.. ..
..
.. ..
.. ..
..
..
..
..
..
..
.. .. …… …. ..
..
Full bed of FBC approved
pre-bagged mortar
Metal or wood
Structural support
Metal or wood
Cantilever of
structural support
(wood shown)
2″ x (H)”
2″ x (H)” notched out
Metal Frame
Screws
10d nails or screws to penetratemin. 3/4″
12″ 6″
Hip End Cantilever Options
Cantilever areaMin. 2″ x 2″
12″ 6″
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions Page 29 of 30
Drawing 25
􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀖􀀓􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀖􀀓􀀃
􀀫􀁌􀁓􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀵􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀶􀁘􀁓􀁓􀁒􀁕􀁗􀀃􀀰􀁈􀁐􀁅􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀤􀁗􀁗􀁄􀁆􀁋􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀀃􀀵􀁈􀁆􀁒􀁐􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁇􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀁖􀀃
􀀫􀁒􀁚􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁘􀁖􀁈􀀃􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀔􀀝
􀀔􀀑 􀀧􀁈􀁗􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀀨􀁛􀁓􀁒􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀋􀀶􀁈􀁈􀀃􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀓􀀘􀀌􀀑
􀀕􀀑 􀀧􀁈􀁗􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁎􀁑􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀑􀀃
􀀖􀀑 􀀧􀁈􀁗􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁌􀁆􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀀑􀀃
􀀗􀀑 􀀩􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁒􀁚􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁌􀁊􀁋􀁗􀀏􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁌􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁊􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁈􀁕􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁉􀁕􀁒􀁐􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁓􀁖􀀃􀀔􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁕􀁒􀁘􀁊􀁋􀀃􀀖􀀃􀁄􀁅􀁒􀁙􀁈􀀑􀀃
􀀸􀁑􀁇􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁄􀁓􀁓􀁕􀁒􀁓􀁕􀁌􀁄􀁗􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁌􀁆􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁏􀁘􀁐􀁑􀀏􀀃􀁏􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀐􀁗􀁒􀀐􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃
􀁈􀁌􀁗􀁋􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁄􀀃􀃴􀂴􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀀃􀁘􀁖􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀔􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁄􀁑􀀃􀀔􀀃􀃲􀂴􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀀃􀁘􀁖􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀕􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀑􀀃
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀁖􀀝
􀀔􀀑 􀀷􀁋􀁈􀁖􀁈􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁖􀀃􀁚􀁈􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁄􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁄􀁆􀁗􀁘􀁄􀁏􀀃􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀐􀁗􀁒􀀐􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀑􀀃
􀀕􀀑 􀀰􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁎􀁑􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀘􀀒􀀖􀀕􀂴􀀑􀀃
􀀖􀀑 􀀶􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀁖􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁋􀁄􀁙􀁈􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁈􀁑􀁖􀁌􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁈􀁑􀁊􀁗􀁋􀀃􀀋􀀩􀁘􀀌􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁏􀁇􀀐􀁕􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀗􀀕􀀃􀁎􀁖􀁌􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃
􀀧􀁈􀁖􀁌􀁊􀁑􀀃􀁜􀁌􀁈􀁏􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁈􀁑􀁊􀁗􀁋􀀃􀀋􀁉􀁜􀀌􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁏􀁇􀀐􀁕􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀕􀀘􀀃􀁎􀁖􀁌􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁒􀁑􀁈􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁏􀁏􀁒􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃
􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀓􀀙􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀓􀀚􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀔􀀔􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀙􀀘􀀖􀀞􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀚􀀔􀀘􀀞􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀷􀀰􀀃􀀤􀀃􀀚􀀜􀀕􀀑􀀃
􀀗􀀑 􀀰􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁎􀁑􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁈􀁏􀀃􀁖􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀁖􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀀕􀀙􀀃􀁊􀁄􀁘􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀋􀀓􀀑􀀓􀀔􀀚􀀜􀂴􀀌􀀃􀁅􀁈􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁄􀁓􀁓􀁏􀁌􀁆􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁕􀁕􀁒􀁖􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃
􀀵􀁈􀁖􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀁓􀁕􀁒􀁗􀁈􀁆􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀑􀀃
􀀘􀀑 􀀆􀀛􀀃􀁚􀁒􀁒􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁄􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀰􀀨􀀃􀀒􀀃􀀤􀀱􀀶􀀬􀀃􀀥􀀔􀀛􀀑􀀙􀀑􀀔􀀑􀀃
􀀙􀀑 􀀆􀀛􀀃􀁚􀁒􀁒􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁖􀁋􀁄􀁏􀁏􀀃􀁋􀁄􀁙􀁈􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁈􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀏􀀃􀁄􀁑􀀃􀁈􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀏􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁐􀁘􀁐􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁈􀁗􀁚􀁈􀁈􀁑􀀃
􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀃲􀂴􀀑􀀃􀀷􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁇􀁌􀁖􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁆􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁗􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁖􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁚􀀑􀀃
􀀚􀀑 􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀔􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀬􀀬􀀃􀁅􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀁖􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁗􀁋􀀃􀁄􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁑􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁋􀁈􀁌􀁊􀁋􀁗􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀙􀀓􀂶􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁏􀁈􀁖􀁖􀀑􀀃
􀀛􀀑 􀀷􀁋􀁈􀀃􀁅􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁑􀁒􀁗􀀃􀁏􀁒􀁆􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁌􀁖􀁒􀁏􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁋􀁌􀁏􀁏􀁖􀀏􀀃􀁕􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀁖􀀏􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁈􀁖􀁆􀁄􀁕􀁓􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁖􀀏􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁖􀁗􀁌􀁗􀁘􀁗􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃
􀀤􀁅􀁕􀁘􀁓􀁗􀀃􀁆􀁋􀁄􀁑􀁊􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁌􀁑􀀃􀁊􀁈􀁑􀁈􀁕􀁄􀁏􀀃􀁗􀁒􀁓􀁒􀁊􀁕􀁄􀁓􀁋􀁜􀀏􀀃􀁚􀁋􀁌􀁆􀁋􀀃􀁆􀁕􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁚􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀁖􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀀐􀁘􀁓􀀃􀁈􀁉􀁉􀁈􀁆􀁗􀁖􀀑􀀃
􀀵􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃 􀀱􀁘􀁐􀁅􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃
􀀶􀁋􀁈􀁄􀁗􀁋􀁌􀁑􀁊 􀀩􀁄􀁖􀁗􀁈􀁑􀁈􀁕􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁑􀀃􀁈􀁄􀁆􀁋 􀀔􀀓􀀓 􀀔􀀔􀀓 􀀔􀀕􀀓 􀀔􀀖􀀓 􀀔􀀗􀀓 􀀔􀀘􀀓
􀀋􀁌􀁑􀁆􀁋􀁈􀁖􀀌 􀁖􀁌􀁇􀁈􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀵􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀥􀁒􀁄􀁕􀁇
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀖􀀙 􀀕􀀜 􀀕􀀘 􀀕􀀔 􀀔􀀛 􀀔􀀙
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀖 􀀖􀀙 􀀖􀀔 􀀕􀀚
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀕􀀚 􀀕􀀕 􀀔􀀛 􀀔􀀙 􀀔􀀖 􀀔􀀕
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀙 􀀖􀀛 􀀖􀀕 􀀕􀀚 􀀕􀀖 􀀕􀀓
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀖􀀛 􀀖􀀕 􀀕􀀗 􀀕􀀕 􀀔􀀜 􀀔􀀚
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀛 􀀗􀀖 􀀖􀀙 􀀖􀀔 􀀕􀀚
􀀔􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛􀀃 􀀖􀀒􀀗􀀅 􀀕􀀜 􀀕􀀗 􀀕􀀓 􀀔􀀚 􀀔􀀗 􀀔􀀕
􀀕􀀃􀀐􀀃􀀆􀀛 􀀔􀀐􀀔􀀒􀀕􀀅 􀀗􀀙 􀀖􀀛 􀀖􀀕 􀀕􀀚 􀀕􀀖 􀀕􀀓
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀔􀀝 􀀩􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀥􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀧􀁈􀁉􀁌􀁑􀁌􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀀃􀀶􀁈􀁈􀀃􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀓􀀗􀀑
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀕􀀝 􀀩􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀨􀁛􀁓􀁒􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈􀀃􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁌􀁈􀁖􀀃􀀶􀁈􀁈􀀃􀀳􀁄􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀓􀀘􀀑
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀖􀀝 􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁆􀁒􀁑􀁉􀁒􀁕􀁐􀁖􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀀤􀀶􀀦􀀨􀀃􀀚􀀐􀀓􀀕􀀑􀀃􀀨􀁖􀁖􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁌􀁄􀁏􀀃􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀫􀁄􀁝􀁄􀁕􀁇􀁒􀁘􀁖􀀃􀀩􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁏􀁌􀁗􀁌􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁋􀁄􀁙􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁄􀁑􀀃􀀬􀁐􀁓􀁒􀁕􀁗􀁄􀁑􀁆􀁈􀀃􀀩􀁄􀁆􀁗􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀔􀀑􀀔􀀘
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀗􀀝 􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁌􀁖􀀃􀁊􀁒􀁒􀁇􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀪􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀫􀁌􀁓􀀃􀀵􀁒􀁒􀁉􀁖􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀀵􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀀶􀁏􀁒􀁓􀁈􀁖􀀃􀀃􀀕􀀝􀀔􀀕􀀃􀀟􀀃􀀢􀀃􀀟􀀃􀀠􀀃􀀔􀀕􀀝􀀔􀀕􀀑􀀃􀀰􀁒􀁑􀁒􀁖􀁏􀁒􀁓􀁈􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁖􀁏􀁒􀁓􀁈􀁖􀀃􀁄􀁕􀁈􀀃􀁑􀁒􀁗􀀃􀁄􀁇􀁇􀁕􀁈􀁖􀁖􀁈􀁇􀀑
􀀱􀁒􀁗􀁈􀀘􀀝 􀀩􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁐􀁈􀁄􀁑􀀃􀁕􀁒􀁒􀁉􀀃􀁋􀁈􀁌􀁊􀁋􀁗􀁖􀀃􀁒􀁙􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀙􀀓􀀃􀁉􀁈􀁈􀁗􀀏􀀃􀁈􀁑􀁊􀁌􀁑􀁈􀁈􀁕􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀁆􀁄􀁏􀁆􀁘􀁏􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀁖􀀃􀁐􀁘􀁖􀁗􀀃􀁅􀁈􀀃􀁖􀁘􀁅􀁐􀁌􀁗􀁗􀁈􀁇􀀃􀁉􀁒􀁕􀀃􀁓􀁈􀁕􀁐􀁌􀁗􀁗􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀑
􀀦
􀀔􀀜􀀒􀀖􀀕􀀅
􀀨􀁛􀁓􀁒􀁖􀁘􀁕􀁈
􀀔􀀘􀀒􀀖􀀕􀀅
􀀦
􀀥
􀀥
􀀦􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀁗􀁒􀀃􀀦􀁈􀁑􀁗􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀶􀁓􀁄􀁆􀁌􀁑􀁊􀀃􀀋􀁌􀁑􀁆􀁋􀁈􀁖􀀌
􀀷􀁄􀁅􀁏􀁈􀀃􀀔􀀔
􀀫􀁌􀁓􀀃􀁄􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀵􀁌􀁇􀁊􀁈􀀃􀀶􀁘􀁓􀁓􀁒􀁕􀁗􀀃􀀰􀁈􀁐􀁅􀁈􀁕􀀃􀀤􀁗􀁗􀁄􀁆􀁋􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁗􀀃􀀵􀁈􀁆􀁒􀁐􀁐􀁈􀁑􀁇􀁄􀁗􀁌􀁒􀁑􀁖
􀀦􀁄􀁗􀁈􀁊􀁒􀁕􀁜􀀃􀀬􀀬􀀃􀀥􀁘􀁌􀁏􀁇􀁌􀁑􀁊􀁖
􀀥􀁄􀁖􀁌􀁆􀀃􀀺􀁌􀁑􀁇􀀃􀀶􀁓􀁈􀁈􀁇􀁖􀀏􀀃􀀹􀀃􀀋􀁐􀁓􀁋􀀌
􀀶􀁗􀁕􀁄􀁓􀀃􀀺􀁌􀁇􀁗􀁋
FRSA/TRI Model Tile Guidelines – August 2005
Hip and Ridge Installation Instructions

Install Factory Buildt Chimney

EXCEL TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Materials:
Exterior (casing): .015” Type 434 Stainless Steel
Interior (flue): .015” Type 304 Stainless Steel
Insulation: ICC “Thermoplus” Blanket
Inside Diameter 5 Inch 6 Inch 7 Inch 8 Inch
Outside diameter 7” 8” 9” 10”
Weight/Foot (lb/ft.) 3.6 4.2 4.9 5.3
Rough Opening Required
Clearance to combustibles
Round support (ERDS & ES) 10” X 10” 10” X 10” 11” X 11” 12” X 12”
Square support (ESS) N/A 10” X 10” 11” X 11” 12” X 12”
Roof support (ERS) 11” X 11” 12” X 12” 13” X 13” 14” X 14”
Offset support (EOS) 11” X 11” 12” X 12” 13” X 13” 14” X 14”
Radiation shields 11” X 11” 12” X 12” 13” X 13” 14” X 14”
(ERS &ERSA)
Wall radiation shield (EWRS) 10” X 10” 10” X 10” 11” X 11” 12” X 12”
Maximum Support Capacity
Round support (ERDS & ES) 65 feet 55 feet 50 feet 45 feet
Square support (ESS) N/A 55 feet 50 feet 45 feet
Roof support (ERS) 65 feet 55 feet 50 feet 45 feet
Wall support (EWS) 50 feet 44 feet 37 feet 35 feet
Offset support (EOS) 35 feet 30 feet 27 feet 25 feet
Radiation shields must be used at all floor joist and ceiling areas
2” or as established by factory
built supports and firestops
CREOSOTE AND SOOT – Formation and need for removal
When wood is burned slowly it produces tar and other organic vapours,
which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote
vapours condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning
fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When
ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
COAL
Some coals contain large quantities of Sulphur (up to 7%). When coal is
burned, Sulphur and coal ash are deposited in the chimney flue. This
deposit combines with moisture to form a highly corrosive acid (Sulphuric
Acid).
In order to protect your chimney, we recommend that you:
1. Burn only low Sulphur coals (less than 1% Sulphur).
2. Have your chimney cleaned within 48 hours of shutting down your
stove at the end of the heating season. Be certain that all the soot is
removed.
WOOD AND COAL STOVES
If you are planning to install a wood stove, we recommend that you:
1. Choose a stove that has a label of a recognized Testing Laboratory
(such as WH, ULC, ULC, CSA). The EPA approved, low emissions
stoves are highly recommended.
2. Connect only one solid fuel burning appliance to a chimney. Do not
connect an oil or gas burning appliance to a chimney venting a solid
fuel burning appliance.
3. Never over fire your stove. If any part of the stove or stove pipe is
glowing red, then you are over firing. Immediately close the stove’s
damper until the system cools. The high temperatures caused by over
firing can permanently damage the stove and stove pipe and may overheat
nearby combustible walls and furniture.
4. Install the stove and stove pipe as described in the Installation
Instructions accompanying the stove. BE CERTAIN TO MAINTAIN
THE REQUIRED CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLE
CONSTRUCTION.
5. Keep your flue gases between 300°F and 500°F. This will maximize
efficiency while minimizing condensation and creosote formation.
6. Do not burn sea driftwood. Salt is highly corrosive to all types of
stainless steel. Do not burn treated lumber.
EXCEL Canada 3 Owner’s Manual EXCEL Canada 4 Owner’s Manual

Metal Roof Installation

Metal Roof
F, F3, F4, Se or SD – SERIES INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT: READ THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU
START TO INSTALL YOUR SKYLIGHT. Be sure you have all the tools and materials needed
for the job. Allow at least 3 hours on a day with suitable weather to do the job.
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED
1. Pencil
2. Square
3. Utility Knife
4. Hammer
5. Hand Saw
6. Insulation
7. Tape Measure
8. Butyl Caulk
9. Tin Snips
10. Screwdriver
11. Sheet Metal Screw #8×1/2”
12. Common 10d nails
13. 2×4’s or 2×2’s
14. Mouldings, Wood Finish
15. Drywall, Paneling or Ceiling tile
for tunnel
RETROFIT APPLICATION
1. Mark the ceiling location for your skylight. Try to install between the
rafters to minimize your work (reference section 3). Before cutting, carefuly
check for electrical wiring above the ceiling. A carefully cut inspection hole
should be used. Cut and remove ceiling and insulation.
2. Make a 3/8’ or 1/2” thick plywood backer board to fit on top of the
rafters under the roof sheet metal. This backer board is used to give the
skylight mounting screws an attachment under the thin sheet metal
roof. The hole in the backer board is the same size as the skylight
roof opening. The backerboard outside dimensions are the same or
larger than the overall dimensions of the skylight. flanges.
Skylight Backer Board
Metal
Roof
Rafters
House Ceiling
Skylight Roof
Size Opening A B C D E
1616 14.5”x14.5” 26.5 26.5 6 5 7
1624 14.5”x22.5” 26.5 34.5 6 5 7
1632 14.5”x30.5” 26.5 42.5 6 5 7
1648 14.5”x46.5” 26.5 42.5 6 5 7
2424 22.5”x22.5” 34.5 34.5 6 5 7
2432 22.5”x30.5” 34.5 42.5 6 5 7
2448 22.5”x46.5” 34.5 58.5 6 5 7
3232 30.5”x30.5” 42.5 42.5 6 5 7
3248 30.5”x46.5” 42.5 58.5 6 5 7
4848 46.5”x46.5” 58.5 58.5 6 5 7
ROOF OPENING – Maximum roof
opening must be 1.5” under the
skylight size, either direction.
i.e., 16”x16” skylight has a roof
opening of 14.5”x14.5”
A
B
C
D
E
RETROFIT APPLICATION, WHERE
APPLICABLE
3. Locate the roof openings directly above the hole in the ceiling (use a
square). Draw lines perpendicular with the room ceiling up to the
underside of the roof. Use a sharp object like an awl or ice pick to
push four dents or holes in the roof. This defines the corners of the
skylight opening on to the roof. Use 2 x 4’s or 2 x 2’s to frame the
tunnel up to the roof. Make sure all ceiling and tunnel paneling
edges are supported.
4. On top of the roof, locate the awl or icepick dents and mark the
dotted cut lines.
The cut lines on many roofs can be deeply scribed with a utility
knife and peeled open like a rooftop tin can. If the roof metal is too thick
to peel, use tin snips. Fold the one inch wide edges over flat on top of the
roof and nail onto the backer board and rafter.
Dry wall or
Paneling
2×4
2×2
Optional: Corner
Moulding
(installed over
panelling nails at
each corner)
Topview of Tunnel Frame Ceiling of Home
September 1999
Corner Dents or
Holes
The slit allows backer board to be slipped under roofing
material on one side and turned a full circle to get it
under the sheet metal.
Slit
5. ALL CAULKING IS TO BE APPLIED TO SKYLIGHT BEFORE MOUNTING. Do not remove protective plastic
cover from the glaze until the skylight is completely installed. Center the skylight above roofing (holding the
skylight away from the roof surface). When you are satisfied with the location, rest the skylight on the roof. Be
sure bottom pane is resting on the roof around the entire perimeter. Install the fasteners, first from the center
of each side and work to each corner. Tighten the fasteners only to the point when you can visually see
uniform compresssion of the caulk. Do not over-tighten fasteners, as it will distort the material making sealing
more difficult. Apply additional caulk to cover screws and to fill any voids around the perimeter, smooth excess
by hand. Finish interior tunnel and then remove the protective plastic from the interior glaze WARNING:
BOTTOM PANE MUST BE SUPPORTED!
SUGGESTED INTERIOR FINISH
Clean plastic with soap and water
ONLY.
6. Insulate tunnel with fiber glass batts stapled or taped in
place. Cut tunnel wall panels from matching ceiling or paneling
and nail in place
Recommend minimum insulation “R” factor
of R-11
TOP VIEW OF CAULK LINES
F MODEL
Fastener Hole
Butyl Caulk
“B” “A”
Maximum Roof Opening Metal Roof
Wallboard Backer Board
Roof Truss or Header
F3 MODEL
Butyl Caulk
Backer Board
“B” “A”
Roof Truss or Header
Wall board
Mounting
Holes
Side
Caulk
Caulk
1 1/2”
1/2”
Mounting Hole
Butyl Caulk 1/2” dia.
(Not Compressed)
Caulk Lower Fastener Hole.
Apply approximately 1.5” long
Caulk line directly over the
mounting holes
Lower Flange
Butyl Caulk
NOTE: No Caulk on
lower edge
Butyl Caulk Application applied on the
flange of the skylight (before mounting).
Butyl tapes are acceptable instead of
Caulk.
Row “A” Caulk Line – 1/2” min
diameter (noncompressed) location,
just inside pre-drilled fastener holes,
along top and both sides
Open Space – between caulk
beads to allow water drainage
Row “B” Caulk Line – 5/8” – 3/4”
diameter (noncompressed) caulk bead,
the bead to be around the full perimeter
of the inner glaze.
Roof Deck
Surface
Top Flange

Installing a Slate roof

IINSTALLIING A SLATE ROOF — THE BASIICS
Adapted and excerpted from the Slate Roof Bible
Written for the Timberframers Quarterly
By Joseph Jenkins
Copyright, 2004: Joseph Jenkins, Inc.
143 Forest Lane, Grove City, PA 16127 USA; Ph: 814-786-9085
Portions of this publication may be reproduced subject to the following conditions: 1. The information must not be changed or altered; 2. Joseph Jenkins, Inc., 143 Forest
Lane, Grove City, PA 16127 USA, ph: 866-641-7141 is credited as the source; 3. The reproduction is not done for profit without express written permission from the publisher.
A slate roof is a perfect roof. It’s beautiful, natural, durable, recyclable, environmentally friendly, easy to
maintain, and costs less than just about any other serious roof when the life of the roof is taken into consideration.
Although there are many myths and misconceptions about installing slate roofs, there’s really nothing mysterious
about building a roof of stone. The stone is dug or quarried from the earth, brought to the surface, then hand split
with a hammer and chisel into thin sheets about a quarter of an inch thick. These slate shingles are then trimmed
into particular shapes, usually punched for nail holes and are then ready to be installed on a roof. They typically
come from American quarries already trimmed and punched, so the roof installer only needs to know how to put
them on the roof. Let’s start with roof construction.
ROOF CONSTRUCTION
Standard traditional roof framing is sufficient to handle the weight of standard thickness slates, which are
3/16” to 1/4 inch thick. Traditional roof construction includes “stick built” or timber-framed styles with board sheathing
(decking). I have seen 130 year old slate roofs in good condition built on 2×4 or 2×5 rafters. Of course, the
rafters were oak, on 16” centers, with only 8’ unsupported spans, and these are the sorts of things a builder needs
to take into consideration when using a material like slate, which is three times as heavy as common asphalt shingles.
What type of wood are you building with? How strong is it? What are the spans? What are the distances on
center? If you want to build a roof that will easily last a century or two, follow the tried and proven traditional building
styles. Use full framing members, such as 2×8 or 2×10 rafters, rough cut is ok, green lumber (undried) is fine.
Local building materials are ideal as they stimulate the local economy, utilize local renewable resources, minimize
transportation and fuel costs, and require the least amount of technology, especially when green or air dried lumber
is used. Any older carpentry book will explain the spans and sizes for standard roof framing.
One consideration regarding weight: the smaller the slate size, the heavier the roof. Standard roof slate
sizes range from 6”x10” to 14”x24” and everything in between. The 6×10 slates require 686 slates per square (a
square is one hundred square feet of roof coverage), while the 14×24 only require 98 slates per square.
The thickness of the slates also affects the weight. Standard thickness (3/16”) slates weigh 600-700
pounds per square (the smaller slates make a heavier roof). Half inch thick slates weigh double that. The smaller
the slates, the more nails, more nailing, and more labor costs. A 6×10 slate roof will require the nailing of 686
slates to cover one hundred square feet; a 14×24 slate roof will only require the nailing of 98 slates. Obviously, the
larger slates will cover a roof relatively quickly, but the smaller slates can sometimes be bought quite inexpensively,
and some people like the look of smaller slates.
The steeper the roof slope the better, although a 10:12 slope (ten feet of rise in twelve feet of run) is common.
Do not go below a 4:12 slope. When you do put roof slates on a lower slope, you must increase the overlap
(headlap), which is discussed under “installation,” below.
SHEATHING (DECKING)
Use natural boards for the roof deck. This sheathing can be one inch rough sawn lumber, green, or air
dried. It can be 3/4” kiln dried lumber, preferably a softwood like spruce, pine, or fir, as kiln dried hardwoods will
not take a nail very readily, or it can be inch and a half tongue in grooved lumber, also typically softwood. The inch
and a half tongue in grooved lumber is more often used on larger institutional buildings such as churches. One
inch thick or 3/4” thick boards are perfectly adequate for residential construction, and can be either standard or
tongue in grooved. My personal preference is one inch local rough sawn lumber, either green or air dried, and not
tongue in grooved. It’s the most environmentally friendly roof decking, it lasts the longest, and it’s the least expensive.
Do not use plywood, particle board, or any other laminated wood product for your roof deck. Plywood
became popular as a roof sheathing material when asphalt shingles became popular. It didn’t take many years for
roofers to realize that plywood delaminates, especially along the drip edges or anywhere where it becomes
exposed to moisture. Rather than go back to solid lumber roof sheathing, the roofing industry invented a contact
paper to protect plywood, now known as ice and water shield. Avoid plywood and you will find that ice and water
shield is not needed anywhere on a slate roof. You want to build a minimum 100 year roof when making a roof of
stone, so do it right —use natural wood and leave the unnecessary roofing products on the shelf where they
belong.
Sheath the roof deck solidly, butting the boards against each other on the sides and ends, leaving no gaps
other than toe holds every few feet on steep roofs (although gaps won’t hurt anything either). Almost all wood will
shrink once installed on a slate roof, due to the heat and dryness. When using green or air dried lumber, you do
not have to leave an airspace between the boards. Many older slate roofs were constructed of slating lath, which is
simply 1×2 or 1×4 strips of wood spaced apart to allow for nailing the slates. Although this traditional system does
work and conserves wood, it is inferior to a solid wood deck because it makes repair, maintenance, and restoration
in the later years more difficult.
Cover the sheathing, no matter how green, with one layer of 30 lb. roofing felt paper, overlapped about
three inches at the top edges, and nailed to the roof with 1”galvanized roofing nails (EG is OK here – see below).
Felt paper isn’t absolutely necessary for the roof to function; many slate roofs (primarily barn roofs) don’t have any
felt paper at all. Felt paper does, however, provide a temporary cover in the event of rain during installation, and it
helps insulate and waterproof the roof, so it is recommended to use 30 lb. felt in order to do the best job.
NAILS
Many years ago, roof slates were hung on slating lath with a single wooden peg driven through a hole in
the top center of the slate. No nails were used. Today we “hang” the slates onto the roof deck with two nails. When
nailing new slates, use 1.5” copper roofing nails. When re-using old slates, a 1.5 inch hot-dipped galvanized nail
will do. Make sure though, that it’s “hot-dipped” and not electrogalvanized (EG). Do not nail the slates tightly
against the deck or you will break them. It’s called “overnailing.” Do not “undernail” them either, or the protruding
nail head will rub against the overlying slate and wear a hole in it. Nailing slates takes some practice, but it’s not as
difficult as it sounds. The nail holes come pre-punched and they’re naturally countersunk to allow the nail head a
place to hide. In Europe, it has become common to hang all slates on “slate hooks.” This practice developed
because the Europeans, especially the French and Germans, decided to use slates that were split very thin. The
slates were so thin that a nail head could not hide in the slate, so hooks are used instead. This is another example
of traditional methods being replaced for inferior, but modern (like plywood) substitutions. The best slate roof, however,
is still the traditional one — nailed onto a solid wood deck.
TOOLS
Many people think that it’s difficult to work with slate. Wrong. Slate is a very nice material to work with,
especially old roofing slates. It cuts readily, you can punch a hole in it easily, and you don’t need electrical tools,
only simple hand tools. A good slate cutter looks somewhat like a paper cutter and will cut straight cuts, and even
convex and concave curves. A slate hammer not only nails slates, but will punch holes in them, and even cut
them. A slate ripper is a long sword-like tool that removes a slate from the roof without having to remove overlying
slates even after the slate has been nailed in place. A ladder hook attaches to a ladder section and hooks over the
ridge of the roof to allow for a way to get up and down on a steep roof. Roof jacks nail to the roof deck to create a
platform to work from. You should have all of these tools, plus a nail belt, chalk line, utility knife, and a collection of
ladders.
INSTALLATION
When laying out a roof in preparation for slating it, chalk lines across the entire roof area marking the top
edge of every row of slate. No aluminum drip edges (as are commonly used on asphalt shingle roofs) are needed
on slate roofs. When measuring for the starter slate and the first row, allow for the slate to hang beyond the drip
edge of the fascia (or trim moulding) one and a half inches. The starter slates are usually made of the same size
slates as those on the main roof, turned sideways and upside down (back facing out), and usually 1/4 of the length
of the first one is trimmed off to allow the joints to be properly staggered in relation to the overlapping row. The rule
of thumb is that all butt joints between slates should
have a minimum of three inches of lateral clearance in
relation to the butt joints of overlapping slates. On
many old roofs the starter slates are not laid sideways,
but are simply the same slates as the rest of
the roof — cut short — and again the joints are staggered.
In all cases, the starter slate must be laid over
a shim or cant strip about 1/2 inch thick, which cants
the slate at an angle comparable to the angle of the
slates on the rest of the roof.
The slates that run up the side of the roof should
extend beyond the gable ends one full inch. Run a
string up the edges of the roof to give yourself a
straight edge to follow when laying the slate (tie the
string to temporary nails), or chalk lines up the roof
edge to align the inside edge of the slate in order to
leave a one inch overhang on the outside.
When you reach the top of the roof, the top rows of
slates must be cut shorter in length to fit the roof.
Frequently the top row, the “cap” slates, must be
shimmed underneath so they’ll remain flat when the
ridge iron or copper is installed; otherwise they’ll cock
crookedly and look bad. They can be shimmed with
pieces of slate, usually the pieces that are cut off the
top rows when the slate is laid.
Headlap is critical. Every slate overlaps TWO rows beneath it. The only exception is the starter row and the
first row. The overlap on the second row beneath the slate is called the “headlap,” and it is typically three inches. If
you do not allow for sufficient headlap you may as well not put the roof on. On lower slopes such as 4:12, you
must increase the headlap to four inches. On very steep roofs (12:12 or greater) a two inch headlap may be sufficient.
Rule of thumb — don’t put slate on low slopes and do use a three inch headlap when installing on steep
slopes.
NEVER walk on slate during the installation, or any other time. This is very important. Run the rows of slate
up the roof at an angle and work from the side. Slate is not asphalt — it cannot be walked on. Don’t sit on it either.
Hook ladders will keep your weight off the slate. Also, roof jacks and planks with ladders sitting on them lying on
the roof are a good way to go. The ladders CAN lie on the slate.
VALLEYS
Be sure to use a non-corrodable metal in the valley. Twenty ounce copper or terne coated stainless steel
are recommended. Valley metal flashing is installed over the felted sheathing before any slating begins. The felt
paper need not overlap the valley flashing (the valley metal can be laid right on top of the felt). Remember that the
felt is only a temporary covering which will become full of holes when you install the slate. It’s the SLATE that
makes the roof waterproof, NOT the felt underlayment! This is why it’s ridiculous to rely on ice and water shield to
waterproof a slate roof.
Before the valley metal is installed, strike a chalk line up the edge of one side of the valley, on the felt
paper, to indicate where the edge of the metal valley flashing should be. In most situations, a valley that is overlapped
by 5” of slate will suffice, providing there is enough slope and the roof planes are roughly equal in size and
slope. Therefore, a standard 6” exposed valley will require 16” valley flashing material. Wider material can be
used, although you’ll find that you just nail holes in the outer edges anyway, which is a waste of material. Larger
roofs that drain more water, such as on churches, should have wider exposed valleys (like 8”) with wider valley
material. There are, of course many variations in valley styles, from open valleys to closed valleys to rounded valleys,
creased valleys, inverted V-groove valleys, etc. The inverted V-grooves are necessary when two unequal roof
planes are draining into each other.
The metal is then nailed in place with a nail of a compatible material (i.e. copper flashing with copper or
brass nails, etc.), and the nails are kept to within one inch of the edge of the valley metal. The valley metal is then
carefully forced into the valley with the pressure of a knee as the other side is nailed (or pre-break a line down the
center of the valley for especially steep roofs). Some schools insist on folding the outer edges of valleys and cleating
them into place rather than nailing them directly to the roof
sheathing. Having replaced literally miles of old leaking valleys
myself, both nailed and cleated, I have never seen an instance
of a nailed valley leaking because it was nailed. Cleated valleys
leak for the same reason as nailed valleys — corroded
metal. Cleating is a practice recommended when solder joints
are used in the flashing to prevent strain on the joint. Valleys
sections do not need to be soldered; they are instead overlapped
by 6 inches — therefore cleating is an unnecessary
step that can be readily avoided.
Valleys should be laid in sections not to exceed twelve feet
in length, although a ten foot maximum length is recommended
due to the adverse effect of expansion and contraction that
can cause long pieces of metal to buckle and develop a leak
over time. The valley sections should simply be overlapped by
six inches — no soldering is necessary or recommended, as
it’s the old solder joints on the old valleys that tend to leak,
once again, due to expansion and contraction. Do not use roof
cement or other adhesives along the edges of a valley (except
as an emergency seal in the event of rain during installation), as adhesives make later repairs of the roof unpleasant
and difficult while adding no advantage to the functioning of the roof.
Valleys are typically laid “open,” with approximately six inches of metal exposed. The overall width of the
valley metal can vary from 14” to 20”, although a minimum of 16” is recommended for a 6” exposure (providing no
nails penetrate the valley more than an inch or so from the edge of the metal when the roof is slated). Open valleys
typically have parallel sides running from bottom to top, although some roofers prefer open valleys that gradually
widen toward the bottom. When laying slate into a valley, chalk a line the length of the valley on both sides to
indicate the edges of the slate, then draw over the chalk lines with a permanent ink felt-tipped pen, as the chalk
lines will wear off the metal almost immediately. When nailing slate over the valley metal, be careful to nail only
along the edge of the metal, and not anywhere near the center. If a small, triangular piece of slate cannot be nailed
over the valley at the end of a slate row without nailing too close to the center of the valley, eliminate that piece of
slate — you won’t need it.
RIDGES
Ridges, like valleys, are typically made of
metal, but are often slate, and sometimes ceramic
tile. When finishing slating along a ridge, it’s important
that the roof sheathing does not have any
appreciable gap at the peak. If a gap exists (as is
typically left when a carpenter sheaths a roof for ventilated
ridge) the slates may not lay properly, and
ridge metal will not have a sufficient base in which to
nail. Ridge ventilation became common on houses
as more and more people had problems with plywood
delaminating and walls sweating moisture.
Slate roofs, when properly built, naturally breathe.
The gaps between the sheathing boards and
between the slates allow for some air flow. This is
contrary to asphalt shingle roofs with plywood decks,
which do not breathe and must be ventilated. If you
want to ventilate your slate roof, ventilate out the
gable ends, or through roof top vents. If you insist on
venting through your ridge, buy or build a ridge vent
system specially designed for a slate roof — do not
use the cheap aluminum vented ridge sold for
asphalt shingle roofs.
ROOF JACKS NAIL IN THE SLOT OVER STANDARD THICKNESS
SLATES WITH 16P COMMON NAILS, AND UNDER
THICK SLATES (AS SHOWN IN THE CENTER) TO HOLD A
2X10 PLANK. A LADDER CAN BE SET ON THE PLANK AND
LAID ON THE ROOF. ALTERNATIVELY, REMOVE A SLATE
AND NAIL THE ROOF JACK BETWEEN THE TWO UNDERLYING
SLATES.
DO NOT
1. Do not use laminated wood roof decking — use solid lumber.
2. Do not use insufficient headlap — use three inches of headlap — more on lower slopes.
3. Do not walk on the slates or sit on them during installation — if possible, work from the side or from hook ladders
or roof ladders on planks.
4. Do not use “electrogalvanized” nails — use hot dipped galvanized nails on recycled roofs and copper or stainless
steel nails on new slate.
5. Do not rely on the underlayment (felt or ice and water shield) to waterproof the roof — you will puncture it profusely
when you install the slate. A properly installed slate roof will not leak, underlayment or no underlayment. Ice
and water shield is a product designed to protect plywood from delamination — you will not need it on a slate roof.
6. Do not use aluminum drip edges — they’re made for asphalt shingle roofs.
7. Do not use ventilated ridges unless they’re specifically designed for slate roofs — ventilate through gable ends
or through individual roof vents.
When Starting to Slate a Roof — Ten Quick-Reference Steps
1) Make sure that the fascia is completely installed beforehand and that the ends of the sheathing boards are firmly nailed.
2) Felt over the board sheathing with 30 lb. roofing felt, lapped at least three inches at the top and sides.
3) Nail a wooden starter shim at the bottom edge of the lowest sheathing board – it should be about 1/2” thick, and at least an
inch wide (eight foot lengths are convenient). Cedar or redwood is ideal (cedar shim shingles will work), but the same local
lumber as the sheathing will do just fine.
4) Chalk a horizontal line on the felt paper for the starter slates, measuring the width of the slate up the roof from the bottom
edge of the wood shim, deducting 1+1/2 inches for the slate overhang. Next, chalk a line for the first full row, now measuring
up the roof the length of the slate and deducting an inch and a half for the overhang.
5) Now measure up the remainder of the roof equal distances equivalent to the exposure of the slate, and chalk lines accordingly.
But first, make sure your second full row of slates will overlap the starter row by three inches based on your measurements
— if not, drop that second row down an inch or so to where you need it to be, then chalk the rest of the roof with the
exposure measurement. [Exposure is determined by subtracting the headlap from the total length of the slate, then dividing
the remainder in half. For example, a 20” slate with a 3” headlap will have a 8.5” exposure (20 - 3 = 17, divided in half =
8.5).]
6) Do not bed the starter slates or any slates in roof cement or caulk, except for very small pieces on edges in unusual circumstances.
Adhesives make it very difficult to repair the roof in the future. Instead, two 1+1/2” hot dipped galvanized or copper
nails per slate is a good rule of thumb which will ensure the secure attachment of all slates to the roof. Don’t nail the slates too
tightly, let them hang on the roof. Do make sure the nailheads are set into the slate however, as nails that stick up will eventually
wear a hole in the overlying slate, and cause a leak.
7) Tap a couple of temporary nails into the side of the fascia on the gable end, one at the top and one at the bottom, and run
a string up the edge of the roof positioned one inch out from the fascia. Use the string as a guide to align the edge of the slate
as you nail them into place. Remove the string when you’re done. Or chalk vertical lines on the roof for edge slate alignment.
Make sure the slots between the slates on the first full row are staggered at least 3” laterally from the butted ends of the
starter slates. If not, reinforce the joint by sliding a piece of flashing over the starter slate and under the first row at the joint.
9) You can work the first half dozen rows from a ground ladder or ground scaffold, then nail roof jacks and planks along the
bottom of the roof and work up from there. Use more jacks, planks and roof ladders as needed.
10) Have fun!
Exposure is determined by subtracting the headlap from the total length of the slate, then dividing the
remainder in half. A 20” slate with a 3” headlap will have a 8.5” exposure (20 – 3 = 17, divided in half = 8.5).
SLATE ROOFING — TOOLS OF THE TRADE
THREE TYPES OF SLATE
CUTTERS:
PEARSON (ABOVE)
STORTZ (LEFT)
FREUND (RIGHT)
STORTZ
SLATE RIPPER
(RIGHT)
LADDER HOOK
(RIGHT)
MISCELLANEOUS
SLATE HAMMERS
(LEFT)

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